rozwell911

No problem....I just got home, and realized that it was in my glove box...i'll pull it out at work in the morning and tell you.

Here is my update: I was having similar shift problems, especailly from a red light, or when coming to a stop, then acelerating before completing the stop. Apaprently There is a TSB out for a transmission reprograming or re-flashing that needs to be preformed on all Journeys with the 6 speed auto. I do not have the TSB number on me, but i can get it when i get home from work. it has seemed to fix the majority of problems, but everyonce in a while, i get a small clunk from a dead stop (not while shifting.)

the only aftermarket chips that function are once that remap and plug into the ECU directly: Diablo chips, super chips...just to name the 2 major ones. But the best tune, is always one done on a dynoJet to simulate real would results after a tune has been done. Most local tuning shops can do that for you...and they use superchips or diablo. As for the resister...you might get 1 that functions right, but over all they are snake oil.

I have had no problems finding replacement blades in the aftermarket...I just bought mine on Sunday at a local Car Quest. Mine are not RainX but i am sure you can cross reference the Bosch's i bought for what you need: Bosch Icon's: 419B passanger side 424A driver side From consistant experience, i recomend the ICON's over RainX . I have had nothing but problems with the RainX brand with streeking after 4 months of use (i live here in Norther California (SF bay area) so i get average rain fall). the Icons, last me 2 years before i need to consider replacment. Best wiper i have had. I used them on my Envoy, Mustang and now my Journey....no problems.

Take a look at the Accessories, Modification section of the forums....here is the link: http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/index.php?showtopic=297

Here is the answer i got from BlackStone Labs that also confirms my assesment: <rozwell911@gmail.com> dateWed, Apr 15, 2009 at 6:40 AM subjectRe: BSL Question hide details 6:40 AM (9 hours ago) Reply Yes, that's fine. People switch back and forth all the time. Kristin Huff Blackstone Labs At 02:56 PM 4/14/2009, you wrote: Name = Guadalupe Garcia Address = City = State = CA Zip = Country = USA Phone = Email = rozwell911@gmail.com HearAboutUs = BobIsTheOilGuy.com Comments = I have a technical question. Is it possible to switch back to regular oil from synthetic oil without any adverse effects to the engine? I can forward the actual e-mail to anyone who wants it.

I am in the same boat you are....I have been considering the Thule soft tops that are waterproof....Like you, i won't be using mine offten enough to justify a hard top one, but there are times where i would need a carrier becuase i would need the people space. Any suggestions on a quality softtop carrier thats water proof would be appreciated.-

Shotgunner is correct. it is a common misconception due to a number of confusing information standards. #1 i ask that everyone please check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and www.blackstone-labs.com for your oil information. It has proven invaluble for me for many years now. #2 I ask that everyone consider this question: If you cannot mix synthetic and "dino" oil, how can oil companies make synthetic blends? All syntheic blends are synthetic mixed with regular oil...They are not as good as 100% synthetic, or last as long, but they are a happy medium for customers that cannot afford the price of syn. oil but want something better than regular oil. Most of the misconception , from my experience with other people and forums, stems from the fact that people tell you not to change into synthetic oil in high millage vehicles because ti would cause leaks...same for changing back to regular oil. This is not true though. The problem with high milage vehicles that used nothing but regular oil for the majority of life is that regular oil forms deposits that attach to the inner surface of our motors. These deposits can accumulate on seals, plugs, bearing...just about everywhere. The problem is that these deposits can also mask problems. The deposits will also fill in where areas of gaskets and seals have degraded.....in essance puting a temperary plug in the hole to prevent a leak from occuring. Problem is, that most poeple if not diligent in vehicle maintanence, would not pay attention to details and possible signs of this process thus making what started out small, into a big problem down the road and possible a higher cost in repair. This is where i bring synthetic into the situation. Everyone knows synthetic has a high amount of cleaning agents and takes longer to degrade then dino oils. it is thoese very cleaning agents that give the myth that you cannot change from one oil to the other and vice versa. What happens is that the cleaners in essance "clean" the depsits out of the engine, and where ever it accumulates (seals , gasgets etc). So if you have a bad head gasket, oil pan gasget that is being masked by regular oil depsoits, synthetic oil will effectivly remove thoese deposits and casue the issues to come to the surface and thus you ahve a leak problem. Its not because the synthetic oil is not doing its job, its because it IS doing its job. I run synthetic in all my cars..Mobil 1..I have switched in low mileage situations, and high mileage situations...i have not once had a major issue come up becasue of the switch. There have been many times i switch back to dino oil either becasue it was all i had at the time ( i use to auto cross) and have never had any adverse effects. the only thing i highly advise, when switching to synthetic from dino oil on a medium or high millage car, is to change your oil again after 1000 miles. The synthetic oils will clean the deposits out and those deposits can clog your filter real fast. theroeticly after the second change, Dodge says you can change your oil every 6000 miles on syn. instead of 3000 on dino. I change mine every 3000 anyways though....Blackstone Labs and Bob is The oil Guy ahve done some real world tests on many synthetic oils and have found that most can go 20,000 miles before needing to be changed. I do not recomend this though or approve of doing that, but non the less, if you have to you can....it also depends on your environment (hot, dust climate or a wet cold climate) how long the oil can lasts. All in all i ask that everyone takes a look at the two websites that i listed...they are a plethora of information that will help dispell many myths.

In Order: 1989 Chevy Corsica 1996 VW Golf 2001 Huyndai Tiberon 1991 Nissan Maxima 1999 Ford Contour SVT 2001 Jeep Liberty 1999 BMW 328I 2003 Mustang GT (had to trade in for Journey. Was not child friendly) 2002 GMC Envoy (Ex-Wife wrecked it) 2009 Dodge Journey SXT (My Current Ride) Most Work done: 1999 Contour SVT. Did Motor Swap (swap 2.5 to 3.0 out of ford escape), tranny build and suspension. Must Fun to drive: 2003 Mustang GT Most Reliable: 2003 Mustang GT Best Value: Dodge Journey

Double post...sorry

there is a theroy about the 4 cylinders....actually more than therory. they are not going to be as fuel economical as the V6's. Problem is that the 4 cylinders do not put out enough power to properly move these cars. You have to constantly "floor" it to pass cars, make lane changes, go up hills or enter the freeway entrance. This causes you to be in the high RPMS, which translates to excess fuel spent. Not i am sure you can tell with the 4 cyl, that if you drive it casually it seems to take a long time to get up to speed. Thats the only way your going to save gas on that car. With the V6 it has more power, the 6 speed auto, which, for me, translates to being in the mid to lower RPM's and better fuel economy.

Here in California I got what would be a killer deal around these parts. First i found a car that was a buyback from the MFG. because the delaer that originally had it went bankrupt. It only have 8 miles on the odo. Now here in CA, if the car is bougt back by the Manufactuer because the dealer is going Bankrupt, the new dealer that the MFG sells it to must in turn sell it as a used car, even though it has never been titled. So it was originally stickered at a mark up price of $33,000.00 MSRP was jsut under 30,000. I got it, with lifetime warranty, for 18,800.00 (this is all in American Dollars) It is fully loaded...it is the 3.5 liter FWD SXT 7 passenger The only thing i do not have, is NAV, Digital climate control, back up camera, DVD system or Leather seating. But all in all, even if the MSRP and mark up is a little high, the end price result was killer.

I have a 3.5 liter with the 6 speed automatic. FWD I am here in California. So we only have 87, 89 and 91 Octain Fuel. Recomended is 89, but we are allowed to use 87. (per the owners manual) I was wondering, for anyone who has tried, if anyone has received better gas millage from one octain to the other? I used 89 octain the first 3 fill ups averaging 18.6 MPG (mixed city and highway, also this is math based, not computer based) Also my DTE has consistantly been arounf 359-363 at each fill up. Last night i decided to try 87 octain. same brand (shell gas) as the 89, also same station. In the 30 miles i have driven i seem to be averaging 21mpg...Also my DTE when i filled up was 393 a 30 mile jump from 89. No i have more extensive testing to do on MPG, but does anyone get better millage on 87 than 89?

Thanks for the heads up. I should have read my owners manual in more detail. Its good to know that dodge allows synthetic so long as it conforms to ASI specs.

Anything is possible with a price. Its all about how much you want to spend....my guess is you with need the AWD tranmission and possibly the case (if there is transfercase), the driveshaft, rear axels, rear hubs, front hubs and drive axels, also maybe springs and struts too. There are a lot of little intricate parts also inbetween.

Hello everyone, i am the proud owner of an 09 dodge Journey and have been trying to figure out what type of oil everyone has been using. In all of my cars i ahve used Mobil 1 synthetic. I was thinking of changing it to that but did not know if the dodge dealer would void the warranty for that, or if anyone has had problems with it (some motors can be picky). Thanks for the info everyone. Lupe

Be gald we don;t own a BMW. You either need a 300.00 reset tool, or take it into the dealer to get it reset. I am glad i can reset it on my own in the Journey.

Just got mine on the 16th of this month. I got a killer deal. A SXT, loaded, just no nav, no leather and no AWD, was going about 30 grand....I got for about 18,000......turns out the one i bought was a buy back by dodge from one of the Local bankrupt dealers. By law, the dealer that got this buy back, had to sell it as used even though it had never been titled...So i pretty much got it for a little more than 45% off of MSRP. Anyways, I love it! Rides well, comfortable and best for my daughter.

My 7 seat SXT also came with one

Great post snow bird. Just an update, Federal Regs. made it mandatory for the latch system to be installed in all 2002 MY and newer. As for the safest place, California Highway PAtrol (from the new child class i took) states the safest place is always in the rear (middle seats if you have a 3 row) and in the middle seat.

Just wanted to say hello to everyone....I just picked my ride up on friday and have sinced enjoyed everything about it. I hope to talk to you all soon. Have a good one!