burgandy25

That looks really good in my opinion, superior lighting down the road can't go wrong with it really.

I also just read that rust warranty is a 3 year/ unlimited mileage warranty, so it being a 2010 is still inside that period for a little while longer.

yeah I do drive it in snow/salt here in MI but before winter I put a few good coats of wax on and then on a good warmer winter day I will take it to a drive in car wash and hand wash it myself again. I will try and go talk to my local Dodge dealer but it will be a long shot, they broke the interior plastic of the rear liftgate and said they would not replace it because it "cost to much" out of their own pocket. But for something like this I think I will go down and see what they will do about it.

From what I know is that Zymol is not owned by turtle wax... Zymol was starting to get big so Zymol had to change for the better to keep up with demand, and since they had a facility not capable of keeping up with their bottling and packaging needs they Contacted turtle Wax. Zymol and Turtle Wax are both bottled out of Chicago so Turtle Wax was closest to Zymol at the time in the same city so Zymol asked them and they agreed, also they both got shipped to similar places so they also took the same rout (why you see more zymol in walmarts and such now than before). But as of recently Zymol no longer is using Turtle Wax to bottle and package their stuff they not have the capacity to do it in their own place.

I have heard great things from them as well. I wish you the best, comparing the output of the DJ to a '99 Ford taurus, '97 dodge stratus,'03 Ford winstar, and a '03 chrysler town and country; the DJ has to be the best of the cars I have long term seat time in. I recently swapped the high and low beam to 9011 and 9012 Philips HIR bulbs and there is a noticeable difference. I was thinking about a projector retrofit also seeing that the Low beat of the DJ has a lot of space to work with if you impregnate the projector into the reflector housing and not cut a hole out and just stick the projector part into the housing be having the rest of the projector module sticking out behind the housing. I say that because obviously you have looked behind the headlights and the passenger side has room but the driver side has very little room. I was looking at the low beam lexus rx kit with a osram 4200k HID bulb but the prices rise quickly for the kits. The high beam would be an interesting and challenging retrofit seeing that the high beam section is tiny, but I have heard of people converting dual high/low cars into bi-xenon projector lights, so it can be done but with more work i imagine.

Has anyone else noticed paint of their Journey starting to "pit" or corrode leaving tiny rust red dots the size of pinheads and some a little bigger? Our 2010 has this problem I noticed the first summer we had it. And my car by no means is not looked after, every spring I 1.Wash it 2. clay it 3. Wash it again 4.polish some areas up if it needs it 5. Glaze/seal the finish 6. and then Wax it. and every 3 or 4 weeks it gets another wash and coat of wax with a quick detailer in between washing periods. and every time there is still pitting. I try my hardest to get most of it out with the clay bar then I will polish the areas where it is the worse hopefully removing the crevice the rust is binding to but with no use. Our 2003 Saturn Vue doesn't have this rusting problem at all.

I have talked to v-leds and they said that our car has 4 circuits to run 4 turn signals instead of 2 like most modern vehicles, so I will be getting 2 more and hopefully everything will be fixed.

This is a night video of the V3's even with the in-line resistors that are not working as advertised, resulting in hyper-flashing, hope they can clear up how to use them properly if I am not using them properly.

I am going to recant my last statement of the LEDs, as of right now, DO NOT BUY THESE! why? you may ask after my ranting and raving of these bulbs? They have bad quality components of the system. the wiring is really flimsy and of very low thickness on the inside meaning low gauge wires are used. how do i know this? because I read on another forum, here is the quote from a member of another forum. "well my set of reds is destroyed. i tried to cut the connectors off because i didnt feel comfortable using them, and i ended up making a mess. if youre thinking about doing it, dont. first off there is not enough wiring, second, the wires are literally paper thin. when i was trying to strip one, the wire broke in my hand. i tried another one and the wire pulled out of the bulb! and fyi, each single black wire has two tiny + and - wires. so 4 wires total. and yes when i got pissed and threw them on the ground, i also gutted the insides and found a CC driver hidden in the hollow base. so moral of the story, if you plan to use these you are stuck with the crazy connections and bulb socket. be very careful not to bend the wires coming from the bulb too many times. they will break. handle the bulb gently and tie up the wiring so its not sagging from the base. i still have the ambers, so i may stick those in the fogs as drl one of these days. but overall i lost confidence in the build quality. they shouldve used beefy wiring like the elefs, basically the same thickness as the stock wires. and the screw on heatsink isnt the greatest idea either. idk, i guess use them as they come and hope they fit the socket. then take the stress off the wiring in the back" So there you go, he took it upon himself to look into the internals of them. also I have had problems with the wiring myself. I have 3 pairs and all of them have the same problem, they will not light up unless you bend and manipulate the wires untill they do decide to light up, meaning there is a bad connection or contact inside the wires somewhere. all 3 pairs have this problem, quality control really needs to step their game up. and also the 4 bulb in-line resistors that are "supposed" to stop hyperflashing on all 4 bulbs does not work. they said only 2 in-line resistors are needed to stop all 4 bulbs from flashing, so far they don't I get hyperflashing no matter what. I am uploading a video right now i will post before midnight showing how i installed them and some of the hyperflashing and the brightness of the bulbs. besides that they are brighter than stock bulbs and pretty good.

From what I have read is that the stock chrysler bulb that goes in our cars produced around 900LM and the V-leds bulb which is comparable to this bulb makes only about 725LM of output, which is less and I would believe the same be true for these bulbs, the "blueness" cast down the road will look "brighter" but it may in-fact not be at all. for example the sylvania silverstar ultras claim to be 30% brighter and whiter. That isn't the whole story. they are infact less bright than their regular bulb! there is a big writeup here http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/superwhite/superwhite.html and herehttp://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/bad/bad.html the LEDs simply do the same unless they are in fact brighter.

Clicked the link and its an iJDMtoy bulb, they are pretty popular and repliable company, as well as V-leds. the only two places I wold buy replacement LED bulbs.

Great news, I got everything installed and everything works great! I had to put BOTH of the CLS's (Circuit Loading System) in with the rear turn signals/brakes; inside the cavity where the brake light housing sits in. Everything fits in there fine but there is no place to mount the CLS system so I had to just balance it in and then put the housing back in. In the spring I will find a better way to mount the CLS system than just letting it float around in there. Everything was straight forward to what I said in the video above with the exception of the CLS module being moved to the rear. And I only needed the two CLS modules to convert ALL 4 bulbs to leds. and let me tell you, they are awesomely bright. instant on/off is something I love about them. I will take a video tomorrow of them in the daylight and at night time. today i took a few videos but i need the day/night shots also. I will compare them to the 92 led tower bulb I have in my car which is also a switchback and also to my rear turn signals in my car which are the first gen platinum amber leds. I'll also show the complete interior LED retrofit of leds all from V-leds.

Like I said later today I will put all four in with the 2 resistors that is apparently only needed instead of 4, and hopefully after some messing around I will find the magic recipe of how to install them correctly, make another video (less talking shorter time), and another video of where i will install the boxes and what the end bulb will look like with the collar and screws in place before going into the front and rear sockets. See you all tomorrow with a few new videos and pictures!

Here is a video of the switchbacks and red V3's. First youtube video and its pretty bad, I was talking way to fast and sound drunk at points my next video will be a lot less talking I guess haha.

Hey thanks! Yeah dodge has a very "weird" bulb for fog lights in most of their cars, they are mainly a european bulb that is eco friendly and long lasting, it puts out about 900LM. The bulb that is the equivalent of the 2504 is a 9009/5202/ or commonly known as H16. V-Leds does have those, they have their old tower Led light and they have a pre-order of the new H16 bulb, but be aware the H16 they are about to sell is bright nonetheless but it puts out only 727LM which is LESS than the stock bulb, so in a forward visibility and safety aspect the stock bulb is better, but if your going for looks the H16 they have for pre-order will be fine. 2009+ Journeys all have the same fog light bulb as well. sorry if I was not clear I am changing all the turn signals in my '09 Journey to the V3 Tritons A pair of red leds in back and switchbacks (white running light/ amber turn signal) up front, the 2010's have a dual functioning brake light and turn signal so it uses the red brake light bulb as a turn signal also, no amber turn signals on the 2010s there is a cap over the hole. I will be making a video tomorrow and posting it on youtube and I will put a link in here for everyone to see what I am doing with these bulbs.

Quick update, I did receive one pair of the V3's (Red) and installed them without the flasher relay to see how they are, and wow! They are something else! They are brighter than what I was anticipating them to be. I still have not received the Switchbacks, because their ETA is tomorrow so I except them next week sometime. I can't wait for them to come in so I can post some pics and videos of them!

here in Michigan I saw on the showroom floor a new one without LEDs, this make me think that maybe there is hope that we could put in the 2011+ LED taillights in the older than 2011 journeys.

Helo everyone again, If your into making your Journey stand out lets try and get our journeys their own halo kit from Advance Automotive Concepts (ACC) you can google them by their longer name and go to their website and get a good look at the type of stuff they make and quality, for the 2011+ Journeys with the Afterburner LEDs having front LED tube lights would really bring the lighting on the car together (short of Projectors that I wish they had!) They make them for virtually well not virtually every car but close, I mean they make them for the Nitro so they should for the Journey. If they get enough interest in the Journey they will start to design and prototype them, its nothing more then making a PVC in the shape of the lines in out headlight. If we email them and show interest we might pull throughout and get one for our Journeys and freemonts, I mean its a popular crossover make ours stand out more!

Hello everyone its been a while since I've been on here, I got a 2009 Triumph Thruxton and have been playing with that. I ordered 3 sets of V-leds V3 Triton Led lights for my '10 Journey... They are quite the investment. I still have yet for them to get here because I pre-ordered them and I also will not be able to install them until January :waiting: So until then I will keep posting in this thread about what they look like when they arrive and how I am installing them and so on. But first off about these LEDs. The V3s are the brightest the V-leds has come out with to date, they use I believe 6 philips rebel high powered LEDs I talked to a guy at V-leds and he said they got better output with these opposed to CREE leds; which was a shock to me. They are adjustable which is nice, so you can adjust the depth and everything for then to get the perfect reflection in the housings of the bulbs. For the front I got a pair of the V3 "5K Switchback" Leds, This is currently their 3rd version of switchbacks in my '97 Stratus I have their first gen 92 led switchback and they work fine and are bright so if these are brighter...Sweet!!! They are also simultaneously releasing their version 2 of their Platinum LEDs. I also have a pair of their first gen platinum leds for my rear turn signals in the Stratus, and wow the amber of those are way brighter than the switchback led up front, but that switchback technology is their oldest less pretty much so I imagine the gen 2 switchback platinum will be brighter but not as bright as the V3 Triton switchback. so brightness order from brightest to not brightest V3-Platinum (gen 2)-Platinum (gen 1)- and old technology (no specific name. look like tower LEDs) The v3 Tritons switchback that I ordered boast 600 Lumens (LM) in the 5K white running light, and 430LM for Amber turn signals. I also ordered 2 pairs of the Red V3 tritons, the same concept but with 3 Philips Rebel Leds incorporated, with a 6:1 High/low ratio for the running/brake. which should make a big difference when brakes are on and off because some are hard to tell the difference and those are generally bad eBay leds. The red V3's have only 210LM of output and they told me that they are plenty bright. I know that you have to add resistors to our cars because we do not have a relay like older cars do; but what makes V-leds different and unique for the V3s is their incorporated in-line resistors you can buy that are completely plug and play, so you connect your factory plug into the resistors and then the V3 bulb connectors into the resistors also so there is no need to slice and cut . We have the 2010 Journey which do not have the amber turn signals and use the brake light as a turn signal also, my summer project is the but a white V3 triton and cut out the hole where the amber would sit in the taillight and make that clear housing into another reverse light. Along with that I plan on making the hatch running lights also a running/brake light combo like the outer bulbs. There is a thread around here asking if anyone has done it and I was thinking about running a 10 gauge wire for the brake (because there is already a running) over to the brake on the other side (for both sides) and maybe at the same tie try and do the reverse lights as well. I will post picture of the V3s as they arrive I know the reds shipped this week but the switchbacks won't ship till maybe January. I'll keep everyone posted! also check out my Advanced Automotive Concepts (ACC) thread and help us get a Dodge Journey specific Halo kit!

having the 2010 model with no amber turn singnals I was going to try this for the hatch running lights to brake lights also, and since they have no amber turn signal there is a blank clear reflector on both sides and I was thinking of either buying a 2009 pair or cutting the hole myself and installing two more white bulbs, I would add more brake/running lights but since they are clear housing and not red I think it would look bad having read lenses with red leds and a clear lens with red leds, like the 2008+ chevy malibu LTZ that has LED bulbs in clear housing it looks odd, and having a red on top of a clear would be weird to me. But I plan on trying this this summer when its warmer out.

What brand may I ask? I am a HUGE fan of V-leds, our Journey has a complete V-led hookup for the interior and license plate lights, I ordered their V3 Triton leds for the turn signals front and rear, I will post my install of them also.

Any updates? Hows the ride?

We bought our Dodge Journey brand new and it didn't come with this cover, we knew that the holes where for some sort of cover (we have only 2 row seating) and when we asked our dealership when we bought it new they said we had to pay for it seperatly. It seams kind of fishy and they just want more money from us, should we be able to do something to get one from them since we never got one when we bought it brand new?

That Chrome on the black looks sharp man, simple yet effective B)

Haha I never thought of that either, I have owned Chrysler products also '97 Dodge Stratus still have no problem like this, '98 Intrepid no problems, '04 TC no problems, now this Journey, first time happening. What she did say is that it was a problem with Journeys specifically, because I hadn't even said my ful sentence and she finished it and shook her head and then said that it was the Journey problem. Well I havn't seen a post on here about this until mine so your probably right that its just a fluke. About the moisture getting in, I noticed that the housing itself it surrounded by a type of black foam and on both of mine they are all shriveled up and pulling away from thehousing itself also that what would probably cause the moisture to get in. I'll have to have them replace those also. Thanks man that really put 2 and 2 together or else I wouldn't have thought of any of that myself. Thanks again!