BUGS

The 2009 model came with a wiring harness that caused one to have it installed direct to the control module in the engine compartment. It bypassed the rear lamps altogether. All of you with LED lamps in the rear will experience harness issues using the tail lamps as a power source for the trailer harness due to the low power draw required to operate said lights. It may be wise to check with Dodge and learn if the control module has changed any since 2009/2010 and if the wiring harness provided then will operate on your 2011/12 models. If it will, then all of your issues will be cared for as the wiring is direct to the ultimate power supply and will allow operation of the brake controller, all trailer lamps, battery charger and easily converted for use of 7 and 4 pin harnesses (which i have on my still operating perfectly 2009 SXT. Good luck. Just a suggestion.

I agree with you on the suspension travel with increased TW. I posted a while back (Sept 09) with pics of my 09 DJ hooked up to 3400 lbs of travel trailer. Without the load leveller bars in place my back end drops about 3 inches but returns to level once LL installed. TW estimated at 375 to 400 lbs. Not sure as my bath room scales can't reach that weight (yet heh heh)

2009 SXT with 3.5 l 6 cyl. 2 WD, trailer tow equipped consumed 12,110.252 litres of fuel (mostly regular with 3 high test fill ups as a treat) just replaced brakes for the second time (first at 30,000, 2nd at 90,000) quite a difference with quality on the replacement rotors and pads (using ceramic with lifetime warranty now) 14 oil changes transmission flushed at 90,000 (preventative due to trailer towing) replaced Khumo tires at 40,000 kms wear use winter tires on steel rims from Nov to April best mileage was 9.06 l/100km (31.10 mpg ) Canadian worst mileage was 29.317 l/100 km (9.61 mpg) (towing trailer 250 kms into a head wind during hurricane) - was much fun I say :rolleyes: lifetime consumption averaged 12.11 l/100kms ( 23.27 mpg) Canadian only issue other than brakes - steering rack changed at 15,000 kms due to worn tie rod ends excellent vehicle thus far - and still looks new !! ( I washed one time though)

I have a 2009 SXT. Blocker heater power cord is folded and tied with a twist tie and tucked into the driver's side front corner either above headlamp or next to fuse box.

Put nitrogen in the tires and no more temperature related fluctuations.

Hitting 100,000km this week and all is well. Rides like the day it was driven off the lot in October 2008. Body in excellent shape, brakes redone (off course !!!) No lights burned out yet, still getting great mileage, all electronics work as designed (NAV system REU), I did have to replace the rear wiper blade yesterday though ( I thought they lasted a lifetime ) Serviced every 5-8,000 mms depending on driving habits. I do tow a 3200 lb trailer often as well.

tenth (10th) digit in your VIN from the left. If it is a 9 then it is a 2009, if it is an 'A' it is a 2010 and a "B" is 2011.

The 'quick learn ' setting is a computerized reset for the transmission control module (or whatever it is called) back to factory. The DJ with this ability will 'learn' your driving habits and adjust to and become familiar with the speed /rpms at which the gears will shift - up or down. When going into autostick this over ridden. The DJ will 'learn" your habits and from then onward will shift when those parameters are met. So if they differ, you will / may notice a change in the shifting pattern. It is preferable to keep the same driving pattern throughout this learning process. I do not know for how long this 'learning' goes on, but I suspect once it learns a pattern it sets and locks on on it. My DJ learned quite well at first and I had no issues until I allowed a family member exclusive use of it for three weeks while I was away. The DJ learned a new habit and it was one I did not enjoy when I resumed using it. I had to 'teach' it all over again. Apparently she taught it to go fast right from the get go Another thing I have noticed over the hundred thousand kms, I have on my 2009 SXT; It really likes the fact that the vehicle is completely stopped and the rpms are relaxed before shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa.

Hills out your way are considerably different than here on the East Coast. It will take you all day to climb some of yours but here I can do the Province end to end in one day. There is one 'mountain' (Kelly's Mtn in Cape Breton which is a long steady uphill grade to 250 mtrs) where large trucks generally travel at 20 kph. I have gone up and down it several times and managed to keep it close to 80 kph using 3rd to 5th gears. Usually in 4th most of the time. Keeping revs around 4K seems to work well. It is just a matter of finding the 'sweet' spot and letting it do its thing. Of course there are wind issues that can slow you down and really push up the fuel consumption. I would try a few smaller hills over a short distance first to see how it reacts. If you decide to take on the monster hill you will be asking for trouble and piss off those stuck behind you. Advice though -- do not move to auto for the downgrade - you will burn out your brakes. Use the engine compression and lower gears to slow you along with the brakes.

Most Class III hitches are rated at 5000 lbs. That is why they are Class III. They can be installed on just about anything but that doesn't mean you can still haul 5000 lbs with it. The weight limit prescribed by the manufacturers takes into consideration a variety of things. Engine size, transmission type, gear ratios, tire size and load limit (stamped on tire), vehicle weight etc etc to name a few. The transmission in the 6 cyl is already cooled by a wrap around the a/c condenser and there is no real need to install anything in addition. An engine oil cooler is advisable if you plan to work the Journey hard but it is not necessary in all applications. They are beneficial even if you do not tow - especially in hot climates. When it comes to adding a hitch and wiring harness you may be best advised to seek out a professional supplier / installer. Dodge makes/fixes cars - not tow bars, they are just a convenience thing that many of them know very little about. Further, most states and provinces require trailer brakes for weights above 2000 lbs (+/-) so take that into consideration when wiring. Ten percent of my 80,000 kms on the 2009 SXT has been realized while towing a 3500 lb travel trailer. A recent transmission flush revealed no sediment, water, filings or burning. Engine oil is changed every 5000 km during towing season. No issues (yet) Don't over analyze your needs. Figure out what you want to do as far as towing, speak to a pro and install the material required to do it safely.

Had the flush done. Mech found no fillings in the fluid, all went well. I am noticing a considerable difference in the smoothness of the shifting. There are times when it is a little rough but much better now than before.

Well I have 87,000 kms on the 2009 SXT. Manual says to change (flush) transmission fluid at 100K km or sooner if hauling heavy loads or travelling in dusty conditions. I have an appointment at dealer soon for the flush as it is a dealer job. My regular mechanic tried but found out he needed dealer tools and computer to complete it. Hopefully this may deal with some of the hard shifting I have noticed from time to time. Thought I would do it now (hauling trailers) and ensure any warranty issue are exposed before 100,000 kms which will be by Nov this year. I'll keep you posted on any changes after the flush. Anyone else have this done yet?

This maximum tow weight seemed to have changed once the 3.6 l was introduced. My 2009 3.5 l maxs at 3500 lbs, and from what I have experienced so far, I think i could push it another 500-750 lbs. Not that I will but it seems to be OK at 3300-3500

The loose bolt may be caused by the plate breaking away from the threaded rod. These are used to mount the bracket to the frame. They are set into pre moulded openings. One of mine broke during the install and DEEZEE sent me up a whole new install kit in 5 days (across the border even) The running boards (tubes) do not interfere with the mud flaps at all. If you want to remove them for the winter it is just 4 small bolts undone and they're off. I found mine collected slush and ice on snowy days. I'm still trying to figure out this 6'5" / 5'2" thing. Sounds like fun.

Well I managed to squeak out a few more kms out of the original Kuhmo Solus. Total mileage accumulated before they reached 3/32 tread wear depth was 38754 kms. (That's 24222 miles) My f''n wheelbarrow has more miles on the tire than that and it still has lots of tread left. I replaced them with TOYO CUV Versado 235 55 r19. Best part of 1200$ gone. I expect another cheque from Chrysler to help pay for it. Seems quite a few CHEAP shortcuts were taken during construction. (Brakes, Tires and I am sure there will be more) But still like my DJ

Welcome Happy Wife - Happy Life ps you should water the plant in the clay colored planter by the front door - don't look to good

Go to uHaul or similar place and have then wire your rig. They know all the issues with light contamination (filament vs LED). Companies like them get the specs direct from the factory / design group before the vehicle's are released for sale so they can prepare product for the after market. Chrysler / Dodge and other vehicle manufacturers build vehicles not towing accessories.

I took note of the fleet spec for towing with the two engine offerings. 2.4 is limited to 1000 lbs and 3.6 at 2500. Considerably less than previous models.

My 2009 SXT came with the Mopar harness. It is wired direct into the control module / fusebox on the firewall. All of its fuses and circuit breakers are stored in the compartment where the jack is kept. The cable runs out the side wallI to the bumper mount. It supplies lighting as well as power to the battery charging / refer etc. An extra wire is gone off to the brake controller. It ends in the rear bumper with a 7/4 pin outlet so I can plug in either the 7 pin camper or the 4 pin utility trailer. It seems that late in the game Dodge was giving out a kit that tapped into the wiring in the rear lights which is really not any great help to the 7 pin users.

I purchased the DeeZee 3" stainless steel side bars. Appear much like the one in the photo above. Bought for $349.00 Canadian (plus taxes). Local performance shop ordered them direct from American supplier (here in one week). Small parts issue was rectified with a call to DeeZee and they shipped replacement which arrived in one week as well. Look good, easy to install (one hour or so) and so far have kept their shine. Been installed for 2 years now through 2 Maritime winters. You can find their website at www.deezee.com. Good luck

The brake controller also MUST be within easy reach to manually activate the trailer brakes. Will be clear in the install instructions. Mine is mounted above my right shin (as I sit in the driver seat with foot on gas pedal) at the bottom edge of the plastic cover under the steering wheel.

Received notice in March, 2011 of a doubling of the warranty (24 months and 40,000 km). They also offered to pay for any repairs after original warranty but before 40K km on the front brakes only. I had front and rear done before 40K km and they paid all associated costs. This applies to Canadian vehicles. American warranty is 24 mos / 24 k miles with no deductible and an additional 12 months / 12K miles with $100.00 deductible.

I have posted elsewhere on fuel consumption for the 2009. With and without 3500 lb trailer towing. Most often with the trailer I get 16-19 l/100k. If you are getting 21 l/100k on a stock unit (AWD< FWD whatever) then I suggest you must have a garden hose for a fuel line . If this excessive consumption continues then off to the dealer you should go and have them confirm the computer link for the fuel injection. Sounds like premature introduction of fuel into the cylinder which results in a gas pig for a vehicle.

I take it the trailer prep package came with a harness (in a bag) that splices into the existing wiring ?? That is great for utility trailers but for larger ones you MUST go to 7 pin. In 2009 there was a harness available from Mopar (PN 82211011) that wired direct to the control module in the engine compartment. There is a wire included which is reserved for the cabin mounted electric brake control. It is not easy to install but once it is it is worry free and well worth the $125.00 it then cost. I purchased a 7/4 pin Multitow plug (uHaul PN 30966) that I mounted direct to the metal behind the rear bumper fascia. I can plug in the 7 pin trlr harness or the 4 pin. I have been hauling the travel trailer with this set up for two years now with no issues. If you want to go this route then i would first check with the dealer and ensure that this harness is available and is compatible with your model year, or perhaps they have an updated version. Otherwise it would be to your benefit (and ease of mind) to make an appointment with a reputable trailer dealer and have one properly installed from their stock. You have to be mindful of the power requirement for the 2011 rear lighting having been drastically reduced due to LED lighting. There may be a lack of power to run trailer lights that have incandescent bulbs. Good luck and happy trailering

Reset the power window switch. It involves holding the switch in place for a few seconds once the glass is all the way up / down. See service manual for procedure. I had to do mine once after it did the same thing yours are doing. OK now.