Germax

Just got it fixed today, i never use the holder, so i got it taped to stay closed. Looked on line every couple of weeks and just found one complete center upper console for $50. The little pin can not be bought as a loose item, new console is $200!!!

After the replacement in May if have got them replaced again. 3000 miles after the replacement the vibrations started again. Under warranty, not happy with it, but they fixed it. Got two new tires as well, was really needed, and right front wheel bearing, $240.00 for that excl the labor.

I would not get rid of the car because of the bad brakes. If you play it right they will at least pay for the installation. If my brakes perform well for the next 20.000 miles and need to replace a part, then i will just call and ask for a proper solution. My car always goes to the dealership, have them do the oil change, fuel system clean, trans fluid change, tires. I will pay a little more to the dealership, but they help me to get only co-pays for real Chrysler parts. I spend less over the long run. I will get rid of the car once I hit 100.000 miles,which will in 18 months, and I am sure that I could not have driven a spacious car for less then the Journey.

I had my front rotors replaced once again this time after 21.000 miles, 11 months only. Agreed to pay for the rotors only, cost, $190.00. Wrote to Chrysler, hope to get some more back.

I have a 2010 SXT AWD and got all 4 calipers and rotors replaced. Calipers replaced under a copay of $50.00. Talk to the dealer, this is not normal.

My car had the same issue, they removed the cylinder head and replaced all valves and guides. Three months after the same problem they now replaced the full cylinder head, no issues sofar.

The plastic pin jumped when i was trying to bend it. Not using it, but want to get it fixed. Also, the inside suede is letting loose, poor built our cars....

Well, in July 2011 i had two cans of coke in the storage bin. They both exploded during the summer heat, and during winter time i noticed that the heater on the passenger side was not working perfect. Was the coke evaporated and closed one valve? Two weeks ago i decided to have it checked. With the Scan tool we found no issues with the valves, they all worked. Only option was to take out the heater unit...........this is not easy, some of the studs are in the engine bay, and the whole interior to be removed (dashboard, steering wheel, middle console, etc.). After this was done the heater unit was inspected, everything mechanical and electrical worked properly, no signs of coke. They discovered that the heater element was clogged up. The car, 2010 with 60.000 miles, was out of warranty. After consulting on a daily basis with the shop, one phone call to Dodge we agreed to split the costs, bottom line still $ 700.00 but much better then $ 1400.00, which i might had to pay if i took the car to a normal garage. It took 14 days to get the car fixed, parts and the holidays in between. Yes, a long time, but also good to know that we as a family are able to do our duties with one car as well.

I would suggest to ask an US ebay seller for shipping to Canada. Or, if you want, send it to me and I will send it to Canada.

Will not work, you are better of with buying a different car

No, I have the 3.5 awd.

It works on my '10 Journey.

I have the Hypertech tune in our 2.7 Avenger and there is a noticeable difference, but only in the low rpms, it is all bid more smooth. This tune is not available for the Pentastar (many are waiting for it). Any turbo engine is easy to tune, and for that reason the EU Diesel Freemont is easy to adjust. It actually may use less fuel as well after the tune. This $69 mod is a waste of money, it does not work. I would first do a re-calibration of the gas pedal (easy to do yourself), and if you want to spend some on better airflow buy a ported throttle body (i have this as well on the Avenger and works very nicely). At last consider to to put a direct mass on the TB, engine runs nicer and picks up better.

The car is fixed, not sure yet who needs to pay, shop has been good to get it fixed in a timely manner.

We found the problem! I am noot sure if many of you know but there was a recall last year concerning the Igniition lock. It was slightly modified due to problems may arise with sudden stop of the engine. Caused by low ignition key displacement. Today when driving i played a bid with the key (turning to engine start position)and suddenly everything went dead. Played a little more and it all worked again. Went to the dealer, showed them the problem and left the car for repair. I assume that this is warranty, the lock can not be damaged after 52.000 miles......in just two years.

For sure next time I will drive to the dealer, It only happened when driving in the city and during this hot summer.

It happened to me three times now. When driving suddenly a total power outage. Car remains running and breaking but: 1) No AC 2) No Radio 3) No window function When switching the car off and on it all works normal again. Who has an idea? It did not happen close to the dealership so going in there and trying to replicate the fault has not been possible yet.

I had my car in with 27000 miles and got the rotors grinned and pads replaced. Now at 48.000 miles I needed new rotors, pads were still OK. Told the dealership that they did not repair the car properly and got new pads and rotors. Paid 225$ which include 1 year warranty on the rotors and life time on the pads..... We,shall seem what will happen this year.

Two weeks ago i had to replace my rear pads and rotors, 48000 miles, 90% highway. Left was still 50% tread on, right side totally gone. Dealer mentioned that the calipers had to be repaced, 100$ copay, all OK. Paid in total $650 incl brake fluid change. This week the front brakes started to shake, wne t back to the dealer, and rotors needed to be replaced, pads had 70% tread on it. Was not happy with this, since the machined the rotors 20000 miles ago under warranty. Agreed to have new rotors (one year warranty) and brake pads (life time warranty) for $220.00 Brakes are terrible n this car, i hope that they will last a bit longer this time

Same with my '10, replaced calipers under warranty at 46.000 miles, only a $ 50.00 copay.......

Chrysler was not of any help, there is no regional manager in the Chicago region anymore. Dealer informed to me that they also think that the calipers should last longer then 2 years / 48000 miles. Seems i now need to pay $5 as a copay for the calipers.

Well, my front brakes were changed / machined under warranty. Now at 48000 miles my rear brakes need to be replaced completely including new calipers!!! Drivers side rear pads has still 5 mm of tread, left side is totally gone, no indication or nothing. Car is in the dealership for oil changes every 2 months, 80% of the driving is highway, no heavy braking. Called with Dodge and they are not willing to do anything. Called with the dealer again and told them that this is unacceptable. We shall see, i do not want to pay $ 800 for the repair.

Mine game on twice: March 2011: replaced the exhaust valves in the no. 4 cylinder, initially considered carbob built up. And yesterday, went to the shop today, again the no 4 cylinder with troubles, will be in the shop next week for a full check up.

You will see only a litle gan in hp, but will get a better respons. I have it on my avenger (08), very satisfied, but got it machined at a local shop for half price.

Consider to upgrade the throttle body, I did this on my Avenger and feel a slight increase in the low RPM's. It looks like the MPG also improved slightly. I just ordered 2 other ones for some forum members.