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5rebel9

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Everything posted by 5rebel9

  1. 5rebel9
    HMMM, The P2099 has me intrigued along with your posting of "gummed up" injectors. Quite possible there is excessive "gunk" build up on the intake valves as part of the problem along with fouling of the upstream O2 sensors. you've done a LOT of work already, my suggestion if this is a true flex fuel is to run a couple tanks of reg. unleaded with Seafoam cleaner added to the fuel. Otherwise you may be looking at an ECM problem ... from a fast code look up. DEFINITELY keep in touch as how things go.
  2. 5rebel9
    Howdy! My not that common for such low age or mileage. What kind of use does this get most of the time? And just so member here can investigate code diagnostics better, what are the P format codes showing up?
  3. 5rebel9

    Help!

    5rebel9 replied to Tay's topic in Engine & Transmission

    A pretty sorry shape radiator for sure. BUT in order to give any suggestions, you need to tell us what YEAR and ENGINE size is under the hood. Each different engine has it's own "quirks".
  4. 5rebel9
    Quick hint: If the engine spins over rather fast when engaging the starter with little to no effort under say a 10 second crank time. That is a major clue to a broken timing belt.
  5. 5rebel9
    Agree'd , BUT just so anyone following this saga knows ...... The timing belt and water pump and belt tensioner are recommended to be replaced EVERY 105k MILES OR 7 years whichever comes first. It's a pretty big job in the sideways mounting of the drivetrain of the Journey. AND why I jumped on so hard about it and it SHOULD be looked at early on to be sure it is hopefully OK and then go on with checking other things BEFORE throwing in a lot of parts in HOPES.
  6. 5rebel9
    It DOES have a VERY easily replaced filter... and rock auto lists the many suppliers with price ranging from $6.00 to $23.00 and If I were to cross reference the part number, it's probably the same filter as used in my past 04 minivans.
  7. 5rebel9
    Look her, we've posted back and forth for some time and you've spent big money for what did not work and all I'm saying is to take the trans pan down and inspect for internal trans pieces laying in the pan AND if OK there to spend $80.00 in parts that will probably fix your concern. The filter is the pickup point for the trans oil to do it's job inside the trans. It is NOT there just as a lubricant. You are messing with a 3500. reman trans job or 1500. USED trans job by NOT taking the pan down and being sure of what's going on. IF internal parts have failed, no amount of outside mounted parts will save it.
  8. 5rebel9
    To be FAIR to the various "shops" you've gone to with this concern, I'll have to say you need to contact them and closely read your work invoice. From the factory the pan is sealed with RTV and not a gasket as most aftermarket filter kits come with. I prefer using RTV instead of the gasket there.
  9. 5rebel9
    So, am I correct in assuming the trans pan has never been taken off and the filter changed? Even the owners book recommends between 90 - 100 k miles. On all the various "incarnations" of this trans, I prefer a 60k interval out in our very hilly area. It may be a little messy to do, but the pan and filter are not difficult to do.
  10. 5rebel9
    The most BASIC and cheapest thing you can do is to drop the trans pan and look for debris from the inner guts of the trans lying in the pan, if none then REPLACE the filter(if you have not done so yet) and refill the trans with approx. 4 quarts of ATF+4. ALSO ... How many miles on this DJ?
  11. 5rebel9
    although I'm "retired" from the "trade", I still have contacts that see this scenario MANY times. I also am on other forums that use this SAME motor with many posts of same scenario, and 99% of the time it is a broken TIMING BELT. Sorry that I did not respond with how to check it(and it's not hard to do) as member john/ Horace posted after me on how to do. Maintenance wise the only worse motor to deal with ahead of the 3.5 is the 2.7 (thankfully not offered in the DJ) in my "book". CORRECT, don't just throw parts at a problem in HOPES, do the BASICS of diagnosis FIRST. I truly hope the OP comes back with an update as to what they have found.
  12. 5rebel9
    With 170 miles put on after the upstream sensors being replaced, long term fuel trims are a LOT closer now. NO CEL and all operating as proper. I have a feeling from seeing the condition of the sensors that there is probably a fair amount of carbon build up on the vales yet, and am going to try more Seafoam every other tank fill up. My son leaves for work in an hour, and I've already "scolded" him again that the tank is on empty AGAIN. It's not a matter of money, it's laziness!
  13. 5rebel9
    HOPEFULLY the member will post back soon as to what they found with checking for the timing belt and then go from there.,
  14. 5rebel9
    WELL, It just MAY be the downstream ones yet, as I have not pulled them. I ALWAYS inspect suspected failed parts looking to confirm. This is the FIRST sensor with a physical fault I've come across(of many I've replaced) and kind of confirms my different bank trim readings when we first got the DJ. I have not driven or monitored live data readings yet after the upstream sensor replacement. Was just heading into the shower when you posted......
  15. 5rebel9
    Nope he's still sleeping, he got home from work at 1:30am this morning. I had told him to sleep as he want to go visit the GF and leave around 2:00 today. With his new railroad conductor job, he doesn't get much daily time for activities or weekends now. He is "on call" for the Labor Day weekend so has this weekend off. Going to arrange car use after wife goes back to school teaching so he can use her car and I will still have my ride(just in case) after chauffeuring her to and from work and finish up the downstream sensors and heater core. My outside thermometer now shows 88*
  16. 5rebel9
    8/28/21 10:15 am They were wrong! Started at 8:00 and decided to call it quits for the day. Got the 2 upstream sensors changed and found the cause of the P0420. The sensor tip "cage" was cracked and under heat was touching the inner section. Only had to remove the air tubes from the air filter housing AND that elbow to the throttle body. Upper intake did not have to come off. It's only 70*f here BUT close to 85% humidity and supposed to now hit 87* today, rain later tonight!....I'm sweat soaked and sore from bending over the hood/engine. Besides the BILLS play the Packers today at 1:00 gotta shower and get ready to watch the game!! One thing that got me upset about the job was my DJ says 1/11 build date, rockauto says NTK23161 for upstream RIGHT(firewall side)... IT is NOT, wrong plug connector and I found this out AFTER installing to the manifold. Took it back out and used one of the other NTK23162, Beside the OE being a white connector and the replacement had a black one, the aligning slots are different. AND RA also lists that NTK 23161 fits downstream left(radiator side)from 11/18/10....IT IS NOT for my 1/11 build date car, It IS the NTK23162.
  17. 5rebel9
    Dog gone it! Rain back in the picture for early(8:00am) morning then a break till around 2:30 ... IF the weather forecasters are actually accurate. Going to try and get the O2 sensors done and let the heater core wait a bit. Son wants to take the car to go visit the GF mid afternoon anyway!
  18. 5rebel9
    Ha Ha ... Seems we are a bit more civilized over here near the Niagara Falls area and call that the Canadian BALLET here in Western NY. And NO I've NEVER gone to one (here in the States), and what goes on while on military deployment STAYS on deployment!
  19. 5rebel9
    Too cool to have "fallen in" with such like that! Reminds me of going to a local car show some years ago as a SPECTATOR and the hosting group INSISTED that I enter the car I came with.... an original(with a few body blemishes) 59k mile 74 VW beetle. I won second in the import class to an MG! And as for the "burn outs" ...Yeah fun to attempt , but as you said about shortening the drivetrain life ...
  20. 5rebel9
    8/26/21 UPDATE Well the week has almost passed and now the wife is leaving Fri. morning with her car for a weekend with our daughter. Weather has been horrible at home(have to work out in the driveway), MAYBE if my son stays home Sat. I can get at the O2 sensors and change the heater core. I prefer to have a running car avail if I need to make a quick parts run. CEL came on one time after clearing and using the seafoam, now not even a pending code by my cheap scanner. Also NO "glitches" from the HVAC or Cruise control.
  21. 5rebel9
    YUP it's been that way on a LOT of the FCA vehicles going way back to the '80s. It does not have to be jacked up much to get enough clearance to slide the bolt out or in, and the side mount has enough "give" as to not have to disconnect anything to jack it. Watch out for fitting the left control arm going in, sometimes the angle during install makes some prying necessary. I have not done this job on our DJ, but on all of the many minivans and a couple old FWD cars I've had in the past!
  22. 5rebel9
    Glad to hear that you concluded it to be from the ABS self testing. Our '11 AWD does not exhibit this concern. BUT I know the front mount is known to go bad(as with many same type FCA vehicles), ands a good thing to at least look at every now and then when under the car for servicing. So was this "check" what motivated you to change the lower control arms?
  23. 5rebel9
    Sorry to say this, but as an 09 and probably high(+100k miles), but this is the 3.5 TIMING BELT driven engine and there's a good chance that the timing belt broke. And at the speed posted of when it happened, the motor is probably shot.
  24. 5rebel9
    For BOTH.... Check the front motor mount for torn rubber, if bad you will get excessive engine rock(cold= higher rpm) and changing directions (reverse to neutral to drive) will accentuate the engine rock. Enough movement to have things like exhaust "tap" the underneath or similar.
  25. 5rebel9
    Sorry John, but when I saw that that pic it was the first thing that came to my mind and I could not resist posting it! I'm in what one may say is "forced retirement" due to physical injury, but still "turning my wrenches" as best I can to keep the family cars and house going..... takes me a lot more time now to work in my limits. and then pay the recoup pain price after anyway. YUP those darned KIA bake lines . . . BTDT on our daughters Spectra last year!
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