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5rebel9

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5rebel9 last won the day on May 9

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About 5rebel9

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    U.S. Northeast
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  1. LOTS of possible causes for this code! How long have you had this ride and how many miles on it? Poor oil change{mileage} habits cause sludging and problems with the oil control solenoids for the variable timing system. also these engines use up spark plugs when using the proper suggested copper core spark plugs and SOME here have reported misfiring when using certain platinum tip plugs. I guess I'm saying a bit more history of the car and it's maintenance are needed.
  2. How long{minutes} does it take to "overheat"? I suggest another test of the system with the dye. also do it with a warm but not overheating state. I hate to say this but....I think you have either cracked head or head gasket
  3. Does the radiator fan run at any temp? NORMAL fan turn on temp is 217 and off at 213. High speed of fan comes on at 230. You changed a lot of system parts, but did you check for power and ground{ corroded or broken wires}? a good shop level bi directional scanner can test fan operation without having to run the engine.
  4. Glad to hear the update and it's mostly successful results! And YES another PAUL HARVEY fan!!!!!!
  5. ODD problem! ALL of the 4 DJ's I've had use an 11" rear blade and I get them at Walmart for about $11 US. They work fine and install / swipe / conform to the glas just fine.
  6. OK My 2011 had a "no dash power off" issue when we got it. I had quite the post about it and what I did to find the cause. BUT what I did learn when having the center stack out was there is a module basically right behind where the screen sits that controls HVAC functions. With the convoluted way CAN/BUS runs in these cars it is possible that that module may be bad and causing the problem, IF you have access to used parts try replacing that module, but make sure it is one for the auto temp system if that is what your DJ is equipped with. This is definitely an ODD problem, I've got 3 of these cars{had 4 but sold one off recently} and never had this type of problem. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted..... and I hope all is now OK on the "other fronts" for you.
  7. Seeing how this is such a "touchy" problem, lets back up a bit and do some further "sleuthing. Vibration was there with shaft OUT Vibration was GONE with fresh PTU lube and shaft out Shaft IN and vib. back, but at what speed? How many miles on this ride again? I'm fearing worn PTU or even play in FRONT differential carrier bearings{part of the trans.}. I've always preferred putting my "eyeballs" on a problem to try and access things than over printed word. This is quite the "quandary" to figure out, Good Luck!
  8. Sorry to hear of more "glitches" from your DJ. I would have thought that by the year of yours this problem had been rectified on the assembly line. None of my DJ's have exhibited this problem, so I can't offer any advice to this concern. Good Luck.
  9. As member 2late4u posted, yes areas to check. But to your further inquiry, YES depending on failure point IS on the board.
  10. Most likely the circuit board in the radio is going bad{cracked solder points}. For your year the radio unit is plug and play for same type replacement, should be lots of radio units{not the screen}available at wrecking yards. Not hard to take the center dash stack apart to get to the radio unit, lots of youtube videos that can help you along about this task. There is a CHANCE also that the HVAC/radio control panel may be going bad also, Good Luck and WELCOME TO THE FORUM!
  11. Glad you have made major progress ! A lot of work and parts, but now you can start ENJOYING the ride again instead of being ANNOYED.
  12. Well my '14 sxt is now gone. My friend needed a decent ready to roll vehicle for his stepdaughter. She blew the motor on her later mosel Jetta turbo and can't find a good used motor for it. So Thursday I drove it over to his shop and made the transaction, a little "dickering" on total price{cash& used parts} and the deal is done. I hope she takes better care of this DJ than her Jetta. Friday I went to DMV and turned in the plates and registered the wheelchair van and put the plates on it so my friend can road test it to make sure all is good after his initial servicing to it. I hope to have it in MY driveway by the 16th. My friend has been totally swamped with work lately.
  13. Also, don't forget to check the condition of the pigtail connector to the Battery Sensor. Small wires and subject to the same corrosion effetcts as the battery terminals themselves.
  14. IF your front brake calipers use ONE piston in each caliper, order the smaller rotors IF your front brake calipers use TWO pistons in each caliper, order the larger rotors rockauto.com is pretty reliable for explaining the differences on how to determine what you need, I use them A LOT for my parts needs.
  15. We have VERY SIMILAR backgrounds!!! Actually the viscous coupler is NOT spinning with driveshaft out, BUT the differential IS spinning on the spider gears and ring gear/and bearings. Just like the rear end of any RWD vehicle and why I suggested checking the rear diff gear lube. As I stated, I can't and don't hit the speeds you can{legally}, but I have to question that your vibration MAY be wear in the rear differential. What did the drain plug magnet show like when you "changed out" the diff. fluid? The front PTO also has gear lube and is rather difficult to check/fill. but low on lube or worn can cuase vibration through front floor AND steering. NOTE, both units I would NOT put on a list to just replace with new/reman. units....it would cost more than the car is probably worth. Thanks for clarifying things, I think all here now have a much better understanding of the situation. Keep us posted!
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