5rebel9

Just so I understand better.... you only get this vibration at speeds above 75mph? A bad rim or tire would show up around 50 - 65mph. Thanks to my area, I dare not push speeds beyond 70mph and only in a short passing situation. Is the onset of this vibration felt more thru the steering wheel or from the floor/rear area? AND just how "severe" is this vibration? Is it an annoyance or "OMG" I have to slow down till it goes away????

Welcome to the forum. Unfortunately you did not give much background info of any thing you noticed when this happened for members here to "go on". Do the heat/ventilation controls work thru the display screen? and is this the 4" or 8" screen infotainment screen with auto temp controller? Are you able to do any investigating/ disassembly /repairs yourself or reliant on a shop/dealer to do your maint. work?

Well it's been roughly 3 weeks now. The wheelchair van is paid for and after a full week of trying to get insurance for it{successfully}, I will be getting the plates for it this week when I can come up with the $$ for title/reg./plates. Had a heck of a time on insurance as the Dodge vin was listed as an incomplete vehicle and would not come up for a normal vehicle. Insurance Co. data bases have a special section for such conversion vehicles that it seems most "representatives" do not know about. Finally got it done and at a good price, even cheaper than any of my 3 other cars for same coverage! The '14 DJ is temporarily staying with me, till my friend decides what he wants to do with it. Higher mileage and some minor body rust but mechanically top notch

You may be on to something here! I took the OP's word on multiple balancings being done and should have revealed a bad rim situation IF the person doing the task watched the tire AND wheel spin. One would not expect to see a bad aluminum rim unless a very noticeable bend from say a curb hit or severe pothole. I did countless tire changes and balances in my day and always watched how the tire and rim for "wobbling" as they spun in the balancer. Also an unusual amount of weight being needed to bring a tire "into balance" should be another "tip off" to a tire or rim problem. My standard was anything over 4 ounces on a passenger car tire was cause for further investigation. My apologies to our metric standard members for not giving the metric equivalent, but I think you will understand the "gist" of my posting.

I can not honestly tell you how big a job rear subframe bushings may be to do, I've not done them. BUT inspect for cracked/misshapen rubber inserts and corrosion on them FIRST. I do know the bushings are a press out/in part to the subframe....my guess a pretty involving job. with all the other parts you've replaced, my guess is that you already have had it to an alignment shop for a good 4 wheel alignment?????

Would also be a good idea to check the fluid level of the rear differential and just how good is the flex coupler to rear diff. I had a weird vibration happen ONCE on my '14AWD and found the rear diff. was almost empty, even though there were no signs of leakage on the differential. Refilled it and the vibration I got went away and has not returned in a year now Lucky? you for your location for road speed limits. Here in NY posted limits are 65 on main highways, and with my luck the first time I exceed them the law is right there on me....even though I get passed like i'm sitting still!!!!

Well then, the worst that could happen on opening the switch is that it gets "goofed up" and would require a new replacement. The common factor I've found of switch buttons is the metal disc losses proper shape, not allowing contact to the circuit board when pressed on whatever function button. Be careful when reassembling after "tweaking" those discs, most all of these switches have a white plastic tape cover to keep the pieces oriented. Somewhere in one of my many posts here, I described this process.{but NO PICTURES}. The EVIC functions tend to fail in the same way as the cruise control , sorry I did not make the point abundantly clear. Good Luck and let us know how you do with yours.

So just what kind of help are you looking for about this? YES, just as has been posted many times about the cruise control switch on the right side of the steering wheel.... they tend to fail. I've got 4 DJ's and have replaced/repaired both sides on most of them. There are youtube videos on how to replace them, and would be better understood than giving written steps on how to do it. I have a long auto tech background and i've been able to take the switches apart and clean/adjust the contacts for the functions and then reinstall the switch{s}, saving buying a new unit. Note, this is not for a novice or "fumbly fingered" type person.

Yes, they ALL do that. it is possible that the interior dimmer control may be going bad causing "dimming out" of both screens as the OP stated as his problem concern. The way he posted{upon re reading his post} leaves me thinking his concern is only during backup camera mode, and thus is more likely to be a camera in the rear hatch problem. I've read of many backup camera concerns here on the forum....of the 4 DJ's in my care NONE has the backup camera feature.

Although not specifically stated, I take it this is a 3.6 engined AWD Journey? You stated you are in the Northeast region of the USA, where the heck do you get to go that fast at 70 - 80 mph? You may want to inspect the front and rear motor mounts and the front and rear sub frame bushings. Sounds like you've already done or checked about all else that can cause such a vibration.

For the most part on an auto forum members try and help with suggestions to fix a problem, not how to deal with dealers on a problem concern. If you do not wish to do your own work, talk to your chosen dealer service manager about the concern {be sure to give specifics of the concern} and they can tell you what they would check and CHARGE to remedy the situation. Good luck to you in taking care of your concern and please report back your results.

I agree with member 2late4u. But being 12 years old now, I would also suspect a poor ground connection in the wiring for those panels. Just where is a case for a good wiring schematic and patience in locating it in the vehicle. Grounds are just as important as power.

Clicking noise as you described when it happens is most likely a broken RECIRCULATION /door actuator. NOT LIKELY the cause of parasitic drain. The actuator is one of the easiest to change and many youtube videos about doing it. How old is the battery, and when were the cable ends last cleaned for both positive and negative at battery and the outside fuse panel and grounds at the strut tower????? A good FULL electrical system code scan would be a grat thing to have done to help find the source of your cars problems.

Y1234 refrigerant system...Quite possible a small leak in the A/C system or slight possibility that pass blend door actuator is not working. It works the same for A/C and normal HEAT/ cool. IF those function well for pass heat change, then I'd say A/C system leak, and probably a small leajk at that due to drivers side seeming good, indicating low refrigerant.

Also don't rule out the possibility of a bad roller tip on the rocker arm. My shop owner friend just had a 3.6 come in with randomly appearing same codes, yet all checked out until he pulled that sides valve cover and camshaft and removed the offending cylinders rocker arms and found one that was missing a couple of its needle bearings causing lack of valve opening/closing. They installed new rocker arms as thankfully the camshaft lobes had not been damaged, and all was good again. PROPER tools for the job are a MUST.