Bluesy

I am not the SAME 'Asshat' as the one he refers to who corrected him on referring to the MAP as "Manifold AIR Pressure" and "He (Asshat #1) obviously does NOT know what he's talking about." Well, let me clear that up. I think Hat #1 is probably either an engineer OR he's smarter than the dude in this video, who actually IS very bright and DOES know his subject well. Unfortunately, like a lot of smart people, he won't let anyone be smarter than himself, which is the wring way to do life. The key is in the middle word. Absolute vs Air. I agree with VideoMan here that the MAP is actually sensing AIR pressure, it can be no other way. But there are TWO ways of referring to the pressure of a gas. The first, and more familiar to the general public is called GAUGE pressure. You've seen "PSIG" all over the place, right? Well, that 'G' at the end stands for GAUGE. As in 'Pounds Per Square Inch GAUGE'. As an engineer, I usually use the term "PSIA" when speaking of the pressure of a gas. PSIA means 'Pounds Per Square Inch ABSOLUTE'. The difference is what we refer to as 'Atmospheric Pressure". At sea level, that is 14.7 pounds per square inch. It is the weight of a column of air ONE INCH SQUARE that extends from sea level to what we call the upper limit of the atmosphere. That is an "absolute" pressure, it has no REFERENCE point except that of NO pressure AT ALL. GAUGE pressure, on the other hand refers to a gauge that has mechanisms in place that REMOVE the 14.7 psi from the reading FOR you. This is GAUGE pressure. But there are ABSOLUTE gauges out there. A good example is the gauges used in air conditions and refrigeration work. THEY are measuring the pressure inside a closed system that doe not in any way communicate with the outside, The pressure inside that system is ...wait for it....absolute. That pressure does not have to account for the weight of air, it is measuring only the pressure of the gas in the system. back to the show... The MAP sensor is actually measuring the ABSOLUTE pressure within the manifold, not the GAUGE pressure. The difference here may just be semantic to you, but to engineers, it denotes a vastly different type of fish. While the manifold does directly communicate with the outside air, the pressure inside the manifold is not created by the outside air directly, but rather by the sucking action of the pistons pulling air into the manifold. And in this sense, we are dealing with an ABSOLUTE pressure, not a GAUGE pressure. So the CORRECT term IS Manifold Absolute Pressure. Thank you. We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.

A blinking Check light ALWAYS means there is a MAJOR issue that requires IMMEDIATE attention, and is typically so urgent it is advisable to stop the car at once and have it towed. Though I must admit I have driven up to 5 miles with a blinking CE light and the car shuddering and jumping due to sever firing issues. It can be something as benign as a bad plug or as catastrophic as a faulty Crank or Cam sensor. Both of those latter can result in catastrophic failure of other components by reporting incorrect timing and position. My own 2009 Journey exhibited similar symptoms just yesterday. My code reader reported a bad coil and Cyl 2 misfire. Haven't tackled the repair yet, but it is very straightforward. As woth all issues, correct diagnosis begins with good information. Get a code reader, even if it is an el cheepo. In point of fact, you don't even NEED a code reader to pull the codes. All vehicles have a 'secret' series of button pushes that will cause the CE light to blink a pattern to indicate the code. Like 2 flashes - pause- 3 flashes - pause - 5 flashes -LONG pause then repeat sequence. This reads as code "235". And you can short 2 specific pins on the OBD connector to achieve the same result. But you cannot reset the codes this way. AND I recommend that you make sure whatever code reader you buy WILL send a 'CLEAR' command to the PCM to erase all current and pending codes. THis is a great diagnostic tool Reset it and see if it pops back.

She said that the coils HAD been moved around, so it HAS to be either A) Compression issue; B) Rapid plug fouling, which could also be a rings issue; or C) (my fav) a wiring issue to injector 1. From what I read up there, her mechanic put a NOID light on inj1 and it DIED on acceleration. I'm wondering if any of the other injectors exhibit that behavior. I bet not. Also, with over 50 years of mechanicing behind me, I never cease to be amazed at how many electrical issues are eventually traced to a loose or dirty GROUND wire somewhere. Even AZT the PCM.

Hello all! I'm Tom Moore. Moved to Tennessee from the Atlanta GA area about 4 years ago, just to get away from the traffic. Now, if I see three cars in a row, it's a Traffic Jam. I love music, electronics, mechanics, SciFi, reading and movies of all types. And most of all I love my baby sister for giving me this great 2009 Dodge Journey last August. It's been wonderful. As you probably guessed, I have an issue with it and am here looking for answers. I'm also a practicing NA ative American Shaman, psychic and medium. Having worked for The Imperial Federal Government many years ago in one of those Alphabet Soup agencies (American Import and Export, we laughingly called it) I am not a Conspiracy Theorist, I am a Conspiracy REALIST. I KNOW the things our government is up tom including the secrecy surrounding the UFO issue. And I am always open to discuss it. A professional musician for over 50 years, I now cannot play a damned thing dues to losing the use of my right hand last year in a botched elbow surgery. But that's another story. Peace to all.