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I see this is from September, so you may have solved it by now, but it sounds like you have a sticky caliper causing some brake drag.  I'm dealing with the same issue right now.  You don't notice it at slow speeds or short distances, but if you travel at freeway speeds for 10 or 15 miles, the brake will heat up enough from the drag to begin to warp the disc, causing the vibration.  Once the disc is warped, the vibration will be very noticeable when you apply the brake.  Usually the issue subsides when the rotor cools, but if it gets hot enough the rotor can warp permanently and the only solution is to replace it.  To check for this, next time the vibration happens, stop the car, and check the temperature of both front wheels.  If one wheel is noticeably hotter than the other you definitely have a brake drag.  Use caution, as a dragging brake can make a wheel hot enough to cause burns.  Other symptoms of this issue include faster brake wear on the side that's dragging.  You may notice more brake dust on that wheel, an if you remove the wheel, you'll see the pads more worn on the dragging side.
 
To further test and diagnose the issue, with the car parked, engine running, rear wheels blocked, parking brake set and transmission in neutral, stomp the brake pedal a couple of times as hard as you can.  Turn the engine off but leave the car in neutral.  Jack up the front of the vehicle on both sides, then rotate each wheel one at a time and compare how easy it is.  The one that's sticking should be noticeably harder to rotate.  Now remove the wheel on the sticky side, and trace the rubber brake hose back to where it connects to the steel brake line, and crack that connection loose with a wrench.  If the wheel rotates freely now, the problem is upstream of the brake hose/brake line connection.  Trace the steel line back to the ABS Hydraulic module.  If you don't find any kinks in the brake line, suspect the ABS module.  If on the other hand the wheel/hub does not rotate significantly easier, the blockage is downstream of the point you opened the line.  Tighten that one back up and then loosen the bleed screw on the caliper.  If that frees it up, the brake hose is the likely culprit.  If it's still stuck, the caliper is at fault.  Check the caliper slides to see if that's where it's sticking, and if not, replace the caliper.
 
When done testing you are going to want to bleed that wheel just in case you introduced any air into the system when you opened the line.
 
In my case, I've changed the caliper and the hose without solving the problem. (I didn't take the time to diagnose, thinking it was much more likely to be a caliper).  This weekend I'm changing the ABS module. 

I can tell you now the RT struts won’t make it feel like a F250 or a Wrangler. This is a car, not a truck.  It’s not a camero or a mustang either.  Maybe you need to go to a spring shop that can make something for you.  Not a lot of options available like there is for Jeep.  Good luck!

I have a 2015 crossroad and there is an issue with the front bumper. Dodge had 3 of these obscure parts in stock because, as they said, they break all the time, its' a known issue. If your bumper is drooping like mine was, you will see a gap developing where the bumper ties into the body panel. There is no fix, you will need to retro fit it on your own as I had too. I removed the grill and added 4 metal shims to the steel frame, which the front bumper rests onto. After taking off the grill, put your hand inside and between the bumper and the steel frame and you will feel the play that exists and will come up with your own solution. Now the bumper is solid, doesn't sift up and down. Good luck.

As long as you order the correct bulbs, yes. 

so did you all not test drive it first? also most cars can be ordered with adjustable foot pedals not sure about the journey....good luck on what ever you do....

Here are some before & after pictures:
Old caliper:

New caliper:

Old with wheel (wow, they look tiny inside a 19" wheel ):

New with wheel:

That's about it. Just a couple of things before I go.....
Be advised that with these bigger brakes, you will need a minimum of 17" wheels to clear. So some Journey owners with smaller wheels will have to budget for new wheels as well as the bigger brakes.
Parts list:
Part Part number Qty

Pads 68159579AC 1
Rotors 04779712AA 2
Caliper (L) 68144161AA 1
Caliper ® 68144160AA 1
Carrier (bracket) 68159578AA 2
Pin Kit (sliders) 68144165AA 2
Spring kit (pads) 68159523AB 1
Dust shield (L) 04779907AA 1
Dust shield ® 04779906AA 1
As mentioned before, to save some money, you may be able to find the pads & rotors aftermarket. The calipers, brackets, pins and backing plates are probably dealer only items, but can be found cheap on line at the following sites:
www.factorymoparparts.com
www.moparoverstock.com
Tools required:
11mm wrench for the bleeder screw
13mm wrench or socket to remove caliper
15mm wrench to hold slider pin
21mm socket to remove bracket bolts
vice grips or a clamp of some kind to crimp the brake hose.

Here's a picture of the Caravan.