SeanTacular

386 not enough? Lol a good single 6x9 pushes more than that lol I'm really missing my 15" type R pushing 2000 watts lol. I want at least 1200 watts for a sub and 600 watts for the doors.

I had this problem on my Sebring. Pad came away from the metal shoe. Pad still had lots of life but for some reason the 2 pcs became unglued and it would clunk over every little bump. Had to buy new rear brake pads and it solved the problem. I could kick the tire while it was parked and make it clunk lol drove me nuts for 5 months till I got a brake inspection and they found the cause.

Damn that looks sweet! How much was it?? I want one! Lol

How loud is the ticking cuz fuel injected cars have a slight/mild ticking sound. It's the solenoid in the injector opening a valve and letting fuel spray into the cylinder. This is normal. It's usually a very sharp ticking sound.

How loud is the ticking cuz fuel injected cars have a slight/mild ticking sound. It's the solenoid in the injector opening a valve and letting fuel spray into the cylinder. This is normal. It's usually a very sharp ticking sound.

Just thought I'd let you guys know about a few decent grill mods I found on ebay. I live in canada (far from border) so options were limited for places that would ship to me. I found these grill inserts on ebay and shipping was pretty reasonable. The blue cross nicely matches the blue on the journey, I've seen other colors I think but didn't really look as I wanted the blue.
Blue cross piece
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Blue-steel-front-grille-vent-hole-frame-trim-cover-for-2013-2014-Dodge-Journey-/152058791149?
Billet Chrome Upper & Lower Grill
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GTG-2011-2016-DODGE-JOURNEY-R-T-SXT-5pc-CHROME-UPPER-BUMPER-BILLET-GRILLE-/351706326150?
The cross piece is attached with 3m tape (continuous line around the entire outside edge), the grill is actually just zip tied to the existing honeycomb grill. Kind of getto, I know, but it works and doesn't rattle... (and my wife forbids me to do much of anything involving tools to her new car).
Sorry, the Journey badly needs a wash but I wanted to test fit everything ASAP

Black flaps look a lot better.

Try turning the traction control off and see if that works. My dads suv recently did that and the traction light was on. Pretty much wheel sensor was telling the computer that the tire was slipping when it actually wasn't and cut almost all the power to the wheels. He was able to drive it on the highway only if he turned the traction control off. Worth a shot lol. But you will definitely need to have it diagnosed and serviced.

Black flaps look a lot better.

Black flaps look a lot better.

Try turning the traction control off and see if that works. My dads suv recently did that and the traction light was on. Pretty much wheel sensor was telling the computer that the tire was slipping when it actually wasn't and cut almost all the power to the wheels. He was able to drive it on the highway only if he turned the traction control off. Worth a shot lol. But you will definitely need to have it diagnosed and serviced.

The other day I painted the letters black and today I painted the back bumper and decided to ditch the red mud guards and go gloss black, once those are done and ready to be put back on I'll post a pic, still gotta do the front bumper and side skirts, after seeing his new diffuser all gloss I had to do it lol

The mufflers are definitly in the back and reso near the middle. Whoever you were talking to doesn't know lol. It's basic exhaust knowledge. Mufflers are always last to cut down the sound the most before the exhaust exits.

OK in 90% than but you can easily tell the difference between a resonator and a muffler lol. I looked up a pic of he nitro exhaust system and it was obvious without even needing to read the parts key that the muffler was before the reso on that vehicle lol. Reso's are thin tubes and mufflers are big and ugly.

OK in 90% than but you can easily tell the difference between a resonator and a muffler lol. I looked up a pic of he nitro exhaust system and it was obvious without even needing to read the parts key that the muffler was before the reso on that vehicle lol. Reso's are thin tubes and mufflers are big and ugly.

OK in 90% than but you can easily tell the difference between a resonator and a muffler lol. I looked up a pic of he nitro exhaust system and it was obvious without even needing to read the parts key that the muffler was before the reso on that vehicle lol. Reso's are thin tubes and mufflers are big and ugly.

Back in the sixties, the mufflers were under the front or rear seats, and the resonators were at the end. My Jeep Liberty Renegade, Jeep Commander, and Dodge Nitro were all this way!

The mufflers are definitly in the back and reso near the middle. Whoever you were talking to doesn't know lol. It's basic exhaust knowledge. Mufflers are always last to cut down the sound the most before the exhaust exits.

Damn that looks sweet! How much was it?? I want one! Lol

@dhh3: Thanks. I like it more!! It's not black chrome. I had actually painted all lower panels including the new diffuser with gloss black.
@Steve_T: yeah.. just one off.
@Cody: It does look subtle. Try and find a good local bodyshop. Am sure they can do it as per your design. Initially I wanted in carbon yet it takes two week. If I did that I had to customize the front and side skirt to match. Just to much work and creativity involved. That would take even longer.
This is the final product:

Point me in the direction to get this ha-ha. Looks sweet. Almost like the SRT grandcherokee diffuser, I think it would look good on my blacktop

Well I realize this thread is old, but I have to start somewhere. I have been looking for an aggressive off road tire for my DJ for a long time. I got my stock Kumho tires to 40K miles and its time to replace. Not finding anyone who has put a nice aggressive tire on their DJ that I could find (with pics), so I decided to just do it and see what happens. I just purchased a set of BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 tires in the stock DJ size (Cost was 1000 with road hazard, mounting, balance, etc.). As of right now, they are on national back order in this size (So this may not help you much). Im sure its not a very popular size for aggressive off road tires, hence it being on back-order. About 6 weeks ago, the discount tire by my house in Mesa could have some here in a day or two, when I went to purchase them a week ago, they had to beg, scrape, and borrow to get me 4. The will be here in the next few days, and after that ill post a pic and a quick review. Initially testing them around town, then on the desert and forest trails here in AZ. I am looking to get an inch or two of lift in my suspension somehow (thinking cheap spring/strut spacers currently). If anyone has managed how to do this, I would love to get as much detail on the process as possible.

I had this problem on my Sebring. Pad came away from the metal shoe. Pad still had lots of life but for some reason the 2 pcs became unglued and it would clunk over every little bump. Had to buy new rear brake pads and it solved the problem. I could kick the tire while it was parked and make it clunk lol drove me nuts for 5 months till I got a brake inspection and they found the cause.

Do not use liquid electrical tape!!! I used it once and it fried my wiring system on my bike. It soaks into the exposed wire splices and creates a ton of added resistance. Shrink tubes or normal electrical tape is best.

Do not use liquid electrical tape!!! I used it once and it fried my wiring system on my bike. It soaks into the exposed wire splices and creates a ton of added resistance. Shrink tubes or normal electrical tape is best.