bfurth

I've found that the only way to get good service is to do it myself. I've found that the only way to get good service from a dealer for a reasonable price is to go in armed with knowledge of your precise warranty coverage and a good idea of what is wrong with your vehicle before walking in. Doing your own maintenance is well within your rights under US consumer protection laws. Just make sure you keep records for the duration of your warranty/service contract coverage (and make sure that any contract you have is not voided by DIY). Doing the basic maintenance yourself will teach you about your vehicle, encourage you to learn more, and you will know what's wrong with it before the computers tell you. This is assuming you have space, time, and curiosity. The tools will pay for themselves.

P0452 is the fuel tank pressure - as the shop told you. I replaced oone on my last car (03 Malibu) when I put a new fuel pump on it. This was replaced because the labor to replace the pump was only 5 more minutes than the sensor alone. I don't know what the Journey fuel tank pressure sensor or fuel pump look like, but the basic procedure (if the parts are similar) is to relieve fuel pressure, drop the tank, remove the pump, and reinstall everything. I would go the route of repairing/replacing the specifically indicated failed component before I replaced the catalytic converter.

You've got it documented that there is A problem before.the warranty expires, so you should be good as far as getting it covered as long as it's a warranty item (which it probably should be since tbe only "wear" items at 36,000 miles should be tires, oil, filters, spark plugs (2.4l @ 30k miles), and MAYBE brake pads).

Their tradeoff is 12 feet of snow every month of the winter (and a requirement that they like hockey - nothing against the sport, just never got interested myself). I'm pretty sure you have it a little better down in NC. What's it like driving a car in February that hasn't gotten a state-funded white/gray "paint" job?

This is a link to an older Journey with a 3.5L engine, but the muffler location seems to match the same as the 3.6L. 4 cylinder is not listed with Walker. http://mastercatalog.walkerexhaust.com/english/ExhaustCouponLargeScreen.asp?img=2538 The resonator is before the muffler (it's basically right after the catalytic converter). It's a very similar configuration to my old '03 Malibu. I also don't understand the purpose of daul mufflers for a system that really only has one exhaust pipe. Go whole hog with a dual exhaust system (one for each bank of the engine) or don't bother!

To add, I would not purchase a TIPM until I was 100% convinced that it is the TIPM, and I've had a dealer tell me that they are 100% convinced that it's a failed TIPM.

I make my own steak side - butter, garlic, Italian seasoning, worcestshire, and mushrooms. If I'm making sausages, it's that same base ingredients, but it gets onions and red/green peppers and jalapenos instead of mushrooms. It's good enough to eat on its own (and will bite back if I feel like it.) And now I'm hungry. Thanks.

The powertrain warranty is 5 years/100k miles, and it transfers to subsequent owners. This sounds more like it mivht end up being a TIPM problem. I have a bad feeling about that cable you unplugged.

What file format is your flash drive using? NTFS (Windows), HFS+ (Mac), or FAT32 (compatible with both)? Given that you started with Android phones (mine doesn't work for USB audio either) and then went to iOS devices leads me to believe that you are using NTFS. To check (from Windows), open Computer, right click the flash drive, and click properties. If it's NTFS, you'll need to reformat it to FAT32. I have a flash drive under the FAT32 format that works perfectly. NTFS will ONLY be read by Windows operating systems (XP or later). HFS+ will only be read by Mac OS X (any version). FAT32 is compatible with almost everything.

You should always use the parking brake. The 'park' position for the transmission is really just a pin that locks the output shaft. It's not designed to hold the weight of the vehicle. USing the parking brake puts the entire weight of it on the rear calipers, and they are designed to hold it even on fairly steep grade. If you can drive up it, the parking brake will hold it.

It's not all Pentastar engines, just the early version of it. Any new product is going to have growing pains. Lots of Grand Caravan/Town and Country owners from the 2011 vintage had the same problem, but once the head is replaced, the issue goes away.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nPRNbn9bdJg This shows it in much better detail than I can explain.

It's still a floating caliper, just like the front brakes. There is still a spring loaded cable (spring is on the rear caliper parking brake actuator arm). When you push the brake pedal, the piston is activated mechanically instead of hydraulically. The piston rides on a screw and is adjusted outwards when there is enough movement in the parking break actuator (at least that's how I've been led to believe it works.) That's why you have to screw the rear piston back in.

Turned out to be easier than I was hoping. The passenger light was still factory aimed, so it was a good reference point. When I parked it in my driveway, it lined up perfectly with a panel on the garage door. There is a 12mm bolt head on the back side of each headlight assembly. A 1/4" drive socket fits in perfectly.

I'd almost prefer the drum-style parking brake with 4 wheel disk. It would make for easier pad replacement for the rear brakes.

The Journey shares brake components with the 5th generation Grand Caravan/Town and Country platform. The rear caliper is used as the parking brake (parking brake actuator is integrated into the rear caliper, resulting in the screw-type piston). There is no drum parking brake (like the 4th gen minivans had). Squealing coming from the rear wheels is either going to be the break wear indicator (though odd if it's happening all the time), something stuck on a pad (either of which will be evident with a scored rotor), or a wheel bearing. They can't be re-greased or re-packed - just replace the whole component. This type of wheel bearing is not terribly difficult to work on (it's just a few bolts that whold the entire assembly to the control arm).

it's a computer with a constant electricity draw. Pull the fuse for the radio (interior panel, passenger side under dashboard), leave it out for about 30 seconds, then put it back in and start the car again.

I tend not to have to drive my DJ at night too often, so it took a while to notice this. After a collision in March, my driver side headlight had to be replaced. Now the aim seems like it's off. The body shop SHOULD have set it, but that doesn't mean they did it exactly correct. Does anyone have the correct aiming points? Also, where are the adjustment screws located?

Hit the settings button on the top right of the 4.3 radio. Scroll down to Audio. All the controls you're looking for are there. Also, download the Uconnect 4.3/4.3S user manual from Dodge for 2015 (go to dodge.com, under Owners, and look for manuals). This information is on page 15.

I have that exact color. I've also had some extensive body work done, and significant amount of repainting (rear bumper cover repainted, driver fender/front bumper cover replaced, hood, driver door and passenger fender blended) and it looks just like it did on the lot. Nowhere does mine have patches that look like yours. That being said, the blue pearl will have some color variation (EVENLY) across the body depending on what angle you view it from due to the metallic flakes in the paint. It sure is a pretty color though! Finally got a chance to wax mine over the weekend - it looks like a mirror!

I've had good luck with the headlight sanding ("restoration") kits. Follow the directions to the letter, and you end up with clear headlights again. The worst set I used them on were so clouded that they would have probably failed a state inspection (if Maryland required one for anything other than selling a used vehicle). They were clear as new when I was done.

You beat me to it! I was typing that when a "new message" notification popped up. Only the 2.4L needs to have plugs changed before 100,000 miles (because they're copper). Iridium or platinum plugs (like what is used in the Pentastar engine) are rated for 100,000 miles.

Drive yourself over to an auto parts store and have them check the electrical system on your Journey (they'll all do it for you). A fully charged battery should be in the neighborhood of 12.5V while the vehicle is off. While running, it usually will be around 14.5V (I don't have exact numbers for the Journey, but a lead acid battery is lead acid battery, and it needs that much voltage to charge). Turn on the headlights should drop about 1V temporarily, then come back up as the alternator kicks in enough voltage to handle the load. If you don't have enough voltage to start the vehicle, replace the battery.

My 2010 T&C had a spot on the inside of the driver door panel, right next to the window, that was rusting from inside the paint. I took out a Dremel with a wire wheel, removed the paint that was bubbling, and ran it until there was no visible rust left. It cleared a spot about the size of my thumbnail. I applied two coats of primer, two coats of paint, and two coats of clearcoat. Aside from the premanently marred metal, it's fine. No further rust has been noticed. It was also the inside of the door, so I wasn't as concerned about appearance.

My Journey, as seen in the reflection on my T&C on my Journey.