bfurth

Jack stands are fine. Never just the floor jack. I've got a 3 ton set that I've been using for my T&C for the last 2 1/2 years. I need to get some pinch weld adapters for everything (I want to take better care of the Journey than I have of the van - this one is MY baby!), but I'll be using the jack and stands for the Journey the same way I have with the T&C.

When as the first service done? I assume around 8,000 km? You've got 500 miles from the first time the light comes on to get it changed. Metric, people. The OP is only at 12,000 miles.

The only time I've ever had mine not lock on the first attempt (aside from when the kids are hitting the lock button and holding inside the door handle) was when my wife had left her key inside. It took me until the next day to figure that out. When I wash it, water running down the front doors is enough to trigger the passive entry unlock (I usually have my key with me so I can get back in and pop the hood to dry out those crevices, and then clean all the glass).

Did you ever report it while still under warranty? Were they unable to resolve the issue? If so, maybe. If not, you get to pay for it (most likely).

The '16 SE is $200 more than the '15 AVP. That's probably your answer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAdNL7bT0C8 - pays special attention to a Fram Extra Guard filter - and serves as my reason to NEVER use them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLGCv4Fg8oA - compare K&N canister filter to Purolator Classic (plus 9 others). If the Purolator Classic (their cheapest filter) is built internally to the same level as a K&N (which run $12 or more for equivalent parts) minus the filter media itself, the logical conclusion is that the PureOne filters are built AT LEAST as well, but have a better filter media (than a Classic). And the PureOne is only $7. Thus is my reasoning behind PureOne. For my T&C, every time a dealership has touched the oil (last time, I made them use my bottle of Pennzoil - I had already bought it, and that's what they were going to use anyway, so no reason to spend the money again and make me store a jug of oil in the garage), and used a Mopar filter, the oil change light has come on at 2,500 miles (6,000 mile max interval). When I change it, and I use Pennzoil conventional 5w-20 and a PureOne filter, the light comes on at 5,500 miles. Every. Time. I know it's all based on duty cycle and not actually monitoring the oil directly, but there has to be something to it if the only other difference is that a dealership touched it.

Maybe it has something to do with loss of power? The best solution is to stick with gasoline (until someone makes a viable SUV/van with an all-electric drivetrain).

Ok, so it's something simple (always a good thing!) You can take it to the dealer, and wait until your next oil change, and have no front windshield washer until then. Or you can go get a cheap plastic tee from any random auto parts store nearby (or online) for less than $5 and fix it now. It's a plastic tee where the flow from the pump splits to either side of the hood for each nozzle - you don't need a Mopar component to do that job. The full assembly from the dealer (they don't have just that tee) is 5116306AF - it's $10 from the first source I found. It includes all of the hoses from that tee up to the nozzles. Just get a plastic tee from whatever auto parts store or hardware store happens to be near you and be done with it. Take off the broken pieces, find one that matches, and install it. Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes.

Amazon has a K&N PS-7026 for $9. Fram too (CH11665). It's a bigger filter (more surface area) than the 2.4L filters. The Purolator One filters (PL12222) for that are a little over $7. The 3.6L filter has probably twice as much surface area on it.

I had this recall done with my 2010 T&C (same recall and part numbers as the 2010 Journey). I had a third key I purchased from a 3rd party retailer, but it had a Chrysler part number on it (oddly enough, it was the 2008/2009 6-button remote that I was using on a 2010) - I needed a third key because one of my original two was cosmetically damaged, but still worked, and I wanted to ensure that I would never be without two fully functioning keys. I had to talk to two different people at the dealership (the first wasn't as well versed in this recall), but the service manager assured me that I would have as many fully functioning keys after the recall as I did before. When I picked up my van, they had 3 new keys waiting for me. If you have 3 (or more) functioning keys that at least look like they came from Dodge/Chrysler, they will give back to you as many fully functioning keys as you had. If you had 3 (lock/unlock/panic) or 4 (remote start) button key, you will get the same thing, but a new part number. The new keys are MUCH easier to change the batteries. All of your emergency keys should be returned to you. They aren't re-cutting anything, and copied keys are not perfect (they may work, but good luck copying it again and having that work).

My old Malibu got Purolator Classic filters (same internal construction as the PureOne models, but less aggressive filter media and no rubberized grip coating). That filter was $4. The Fram equivalent would have been $3, but was made with cardboard instead of steel caps. Purolator filters are made in the USA, Fram I'm not sure. For a $1 difference in price, I went with the better product. The PureOne filters have the same internal construction as K&N (and other high price) spin on filters, but are in the $7-$7.50 range. Those of you with the Pentastar can ignore all of this - your filters are nothing more than a plastic cage and the filter media. As long as it fits, it's fine.

I didn't say there was anything bad about it. All I said is that Pennzoil is badged MS-6395 compliant (a requirement for Chrysler vehicles), and even referenced specifically in the 2015 owner's manual as a recommended oil. Pennzoil conventional, synthetic, whatever (except high mileage - it's not MS-6395 compliant), it's (almost) all good. Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus 5w-20 is also only $25 on Amazon. Guess who gets my money. Castrol GTX and Edge are MS-6395 as well (High Mileage is NOT MS-6395 compliant). Most likely, I will be going with Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus and a Purolator One (PL12222) filter. There is no way I would ever allow a Fram filter on my vehicle after having seen how they are built (top and bottom caps on the filter media are cardboard, compared to steel for Purolator and OEM). I've been running my T&C with Pennzoil conventional and a Purolator One filter for the last 2 1/2 years - other than bad valve seals (which were there when I bought it), it's had no issues at all.

I plan on putting Pennzoil Platinum in mine when the time comes. Mobil 1 is not MS-6395 badged, so there is a risk while you are still under the powertrain warranty. It would have to be proven that your use of Mobil 1 caused whatever problem, but it's an avenue for a denied warranty claim. Pennzoil (or any oil from Shell Helix) is going to meet manufacturer specs.

That being the case, and assuming there are no obvious leaks in the hoses or clogged nozzles, it would have to be a broken gear inside the pump housing. In that case, remove and replace. Given that the owner should still be under warranty, it makes the call easier. It also helps to tell the dealership what's going on when scheduling the appointment to bring it in - you can give them a good idea as to what part to order in advance and save everyone some hassle in the process.

External colors - gray, grayer, white, whiter, black, or red. Glad I got me a Blue Streak Pearl 2015! When did auto manufacturers decide that everyone wants a car in gray scale?

If it costs 30% less, you break even. If the fuel lines aren't stainless steel, I wouldn't do it.

You couldn't pay me enough to put E85 in an engine (designed for its use). It gets 20-30% lower fuel economy than gasoline, is highly corrosive, and is the result of growing to much corn for the sole purpose of burning it in engines. It's a great concept, but it fails in practice. Gasoline has more energy by mass than ethanol - the mpg ratings are proof of that. For that fact alone, I'll use gasoline. Here's an Edmund's test with E85 for comparison: http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.html

Pop the hood and look (get an assistant to run the washer). If you can hear the pump and the rear washer works, then it's most likely a problem with the lines in the front (clogged or cracked) - unless there are two pumps (I don't know). Running the pump while the hood is open will tell you where the problem is if it's cracked (it will be before any potential split in the line to feed both sides, otherwise you'd only have a problem with one of them).

That is exactly what I needed! Thank you!

If you're looking at a 2011, check for an open recall regarding the cylinder head. The 3.5 is an underbored version of the 4.0 that was available on other similar vehicles of the same vintage. Compared to HP, fuel economy, and overall cost of ownership, the 3.6 is better in just about every way imaginable.

Yeah, I'm sure it does (no screws to be seen on the finished dash). The question is: what piece comes out first, and where are the attachment points? The last thing I want is to break anything while trying to figure out if it's even possible to add them. If I actually end up adding these things (and with the amount of work that my driveway needs, it's looking less probably at this point), I want it to look like they were built in from the factory. At least the light switch is easy enough - push and turn! I will probably end up adding fog lights at some point regardless - I like the look, and the added visibility is nice to have. Those are easy enough to do.

The floor area of the front seat of this is pretty big. Try changing the cabin air filter in an '06 Mazda 3. Half the dash needs to be taken apart. The Journey a modern vehicle - you aren't supposed to fix ANYTHING on your own. You're supposed to the "dumb 'Merican" who just pays anyone anything they want so you don't have to deal with your own problems. It is a little ridiculous that you have to reboot the radio to get it to ignore something you didn't ask for in the first place.

So the next question would be how to remove said defroster cover - the primary goal being no damage of any kind. I can look for wires later (and this might never happen, who knows - I've got to convince the Mrs. that it's worth the probably $200 or more this is going to cost to purchase, install, and activate everything).

So this would have to be drilled outor does that filler piece pop out? The light switch I would need comes with the fog light kit (two kits available, one with and one without auto headlights).

So I'm interested in getting the auto headlights installed (if possible) as well as installing the factory fog light kit. Attached is a picture of my dashboard where the sensor would be if it had one. Mine is a '15 SE. Is this possible? If so, what does the dash removal entail? What sales codes would I need to have added?