5rebel9 Posted October 5 Report Share Posted October 5 Well, with the 5 DJ's I've had this is a new problem to encounter. Car has ATC but when TEMP is set to full high, I get full heat out any set position. When I lower the TEMP even one degree on the infotainment screen the temp goes to full cold even though the display shows desired TEMP setting. I suspect the HVAC module in the center stack behind the infotainment screen and when the sun comes up will hook up my alphaobd program and see if I can find the problem using that. In the meantime if anyone has suggestions, I'm open to read/try them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted October 5 Report Share Posted October 5 Yeah scanning for codes is the best start. My wild guess would be cabin air temp sensor( 55111178AD) or heater core temp (long wire style probe harness) sensor, neither are super pricy, although access might be crappy. You have parts car you can pull from still, so if ATC that would help. Did this journey have the heater core swapped out ? If so probe could have been disturbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 5 Author Report Share Posted October 5 Code B11ca comes up as only fault. Took out glove box and watched movement of the pass. actuator. It moves freely, but in large movements with steady hold on control buttons hot or cold(not smooth and steady). NO clicking or sticking.@John/Horace this has the original heater core and NO under dash work has been done on it. MY understanding of the earlier models with ATC that only fan speed was affected by ATC, as desired temp is set by the operator (could I be wrong?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 7 Author Report Share Posted October 7 Well it is an actuator for the pass. side heat control, still functional but slow in matching output when in sync. mode. I went to my friend yesterday to pull one and he said he needed 3 also, if I would pull them I could have the fourth. Same actuators in the vans, and he has more of them and easier to access the actuators. I pulled 3 and was getting sore, so left the fourth (mine) for another day. Since I know what is going on now and is now my main ride since the wife took over the '17. my mind is more at ease about the situation. I'll rest up a bit and then pull the final one and change out the actuator on another day. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 7 Report Share Posted October 7 LOL... getting to them is like being a acrobat ,,,, video would be fun to watch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 7 Author Report Share Posted October 7 2 hours ago, 2late4u said: LOL... getting to them is like being a acrobat ,,,, video would be fun to watch I agree with you BUT I am NO VIDEOGRAPHER to take and post things.....LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted 3 hours ago Report Share Posted 3 hours ago If you are not using a scanning tool for sensor change, need to access the power fuse in kick panel for the actuator. As you know the cabin venting timer leaves the blender open for a few about 2 mins after shutdown. Prevents mold smell, most newer cars do this. If you have glove box down and you look at sensor, you can see the timer in operation. I have switched to 1/4" square head screws on these sensors. Philps shorty toohard to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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