rusty-c Posted Thursday at 12:24 AM Report Share Posted Thursday at 12:24 AM First post here, so forgive me if my approach is inconsistent with how things are done here. I know that this topic has been addressed in pieces by previous poster, but I've been told to start a fresh post with my issue on most forums. The issue 2019 Dodge Journey GT, 3.6 V6, AWD, front & rear heat/air, and 105,000 miles that is experiencing extreme overheating issues. To this point never an issue and regular maintenance schedule has been followed. Where did it begin? Vehicle overheated and the shop found a crack in the housing that was allowing air in the system. The shop replaced the housing and thermostat and all was good for 150 miles. My assumption is they missed an air pocket. Back to the shop and the thermostat replaced again. Same issue.... Block test was negative.... At this point were just throwing parts at the problem. Fuses and relays are good. We've replaced the fan resistor, thermostat, radiator(bottle) cap, water pump, radiator, fan. Most of which I assume didn't need replaced, but at over 100k I'm not that upset that those have been changed, but the overheating has to stop. It has been vacuum bleed and filled and still over heating. I assume that there is still air in the system and that it somehow relates to the dual heat/air system. My understanding is that these dual systems are a real bear to get purged properly. Hoping someone can offer some insight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted Thursday at 03:18 AM Report Share Posted Thursday at 03:18 AM (edited) Welcome to the forum. What is the engine coolant temperature, when it overheats? Edited Thursday at 03:19 AM by Dean H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted Thursday at 04:32 AM Report Share Posted Thursday at 04:32 AM Block test fine…means combustion gas test of glycol with a dye kit ? 2012 was the recall year for cylinder heads cracks, not a common issue. larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty-c Posted Thursday at 11:24 PM Author Report Share Posted Thursday at 11:24 PM My best estimate is that it's boiling at approximately 260-265 degrees. I don't like to tempt fate, so each time it has done so we've parked it and sought out a solution to the problem (code for: throwing parts at the problem). At least that's the temp where it starts pushing coolant out of the bottle overflow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted Thursday at 11:47 PM Report Share Posted Thursday at 11:47 PM (edited) Does the radiator fan run at any temp? NORMAL fan turn on temp is 217 and off at 213. High speed of fan comes on at 230. You changed a lot of system parts, but did you check for power and ground{ corroded or broken wires}? a good shop level bi directional scanner can test fan operation without having to run the engine. Edited Thursday at 11:49 PM by 5rebel9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted Friday at 01:55 AM Report Share Posted Friday at 01:55 AM (edited) To check the engine coolant temperature. Use the arrow buttons and back button on the steering wheel. To access several different engine gauges on the evic screen in the center of the instrument cluster. I would get someone with a bi-directional scan tool to test the radiator fan high and low speeds. Engine off. Scan for codes at the same time. The engine radiator fan runs when the air conditioning is turned on. Does the top radiator hose get hot? Indicating that the thermostat is opening around 192 F. Don't push your luck. You could warp the heads, with too many overheats. Edited Friday at 01:57 AM by Dean H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty-c Posted Friday at 05:05 AM Author Report Share Posted Friday at 05:05 AM Fan does kick on and off within that range while sitting in the drive and when in a state of overheating it has definitely kicked into high. It was replaced because the water existing fan did not feel like it was moving completely freely and just felt and sounded as if it were dragging when turned manually. Top hose is hot and rock hard when the thermostat opens at about 202-203 degrees. All wires are intact and grounds are solid.   I’m certainly not pushing my luck in an effort to avoid damaging the heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted Friday at 11:54 AM Report Share Posted Friday at 11:54 AM How long{minutes} does it take to "overheat"? I suggest another test of the system with the dye. also do it with a warm but not overheating state. I hate to say this but....I think you have either cracked head or head gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean H Posted Friday at 07:37 PM Report Share Posted Friday at 07:37 PM (edited) Check your oil, is it milky? Edited Friday at 07:37 PM by Dean H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty-c Posted yesterday at 07:50 PM Author Report Share Posted yesterday at 07:50 PM No milkyness to the oil. As far as how long it takes to get... if parked and in the drive, it's not overheating. Get it out on the road it will hit the 240-250 range in 10 minutes or so if under moderate load. If headed up a large incline it will push that temp to 260 and beyond pretty quickly. Regarding an additional test, I've got to pick up a bottle of fluid and will post when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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