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Electrical System FYI - ground system


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Electrical issues?

 

Straight up folks here is the deal.

 

The Journey has a weak electrical system. Dodge made it that way.

 

Most Dodge dealerships don't know what to do with it either.

 

I have identified a weak point, that can be corrected very easily.

 

Drum roll please..........

 

Upgrade your electrical ground system.

 

Yes, that simple.

 

Read to the end.

 

 

A 12-volt automotive circuit consists of a power wire to the load (lights, motor etc.), and the ground wire. The ground wire is a return path to the negative battery terminal.

 

The negative battery cable connects to the ground stud located on the drivers strut tower. From the ground stud, a cable connects to the engine block.

 

From the engine block, wires, straps or cables ground to the chassis.

 

Inside the vehicle all electrical circuits are connected and grounded to the vehicle chassis. The metal chassis is the ground return path to the negative battery terminal.

 

Weak grounds that are corroded or loose. Will cause all kinds of strange electrical problems.

 

Cleaning all grounds first is important. To prevent misdiagnosing and replacing parts that are good.

 

This is why, we keep telling people check and clean your connections and grounds.

 

On the Journey the ground system needs a few upgrades to be considered reliable. Dodge cut costs on the electrical system battery cables. They used 4-gauge (AWG). Should have been 2-gauge (AWG). Better engine block to chassis grounds is needed.

 

So, my plan is to connect as many grounds as possible by cable to the negative battery terminal.

 

1) Battery ground stud to engine block ground stud. Adkd a 2 gauge Cable. Leave the stock ground cable alone.

 

2) Passenger engine mount. 4-gauge cable to passenger strut tower ground stud.

 

3) Passenger strut tower ground studs. Connect them together with wire or use a 2 " mending plate modified to fit.

 

4) Drivers strut tower. Connect the 2 smaller ground studs together. Then connect them to the large battery ground stud. Use wire or 2" mending plate modified to fit. 

 

The 2-gauge cable from the battery ground stud to the engine block stud. The starter and alternator ground through the engine block. 

 

This upgrade is very important to starting and charging of the vehicle. The engine block is an important part of the ground system.

 

Parts needed -2 gauge (AWG) cable black, 10 ft long with 3 /8" hole lug ends.

 

The 4-gauge cable ground from the passenger engine mount to the strut tower ground. Ties that side of the vehicle in to the ground system.

 

Parts needed -4 gauge (AWG) black, 3 ft long with 5 /16" lug ends.

 

Connecting the strut tower grounds together completes the direct connection to the battery negative terminal.

 

Parts needed- Wire or 2" mending plates. Drill out the holes until it fits.

 

An additional ground that takes some work,is to run a 4-gauge cable from the engine block stud into the interior.

 

Connecting to the bare metal of the Instrument panel frame.

 

I ran this ground cable right along with the transmission shifter cable into the vehicle.

 

The instrument panel frame has the grounds for 90% of the electronic modules on the Journey directly connected to it. These modules need the best direct ground possible. 

 

The HVAC module is one of them. This one needs the best ground possible.

 

Get these upgrades done first. Then see what is happening and proceed on to troubleshooting and testing components.

 

I have been running this basic ground upgrade for a year now.

 

When, I installed the ground to the instrument panel frame by the cabin air filter. My HVAC switched between defrost and floor outlets immediately. 

 

Studying the improvement of the HVAC turning on by itself. 

 

Photos are in the next post. 

 

Where to buy parts in another post.

 

 

Dean

Edited by Dean H
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Photos -

Ground cable to interior .

Connect to the engine ground stud. Run it along side the transmission shifter cable going into the interior.

 

Looking from the passenger side. That is the transmission shifter cable entering the vehicle.

IMG_20240228_1714392.thumb.jpg.b05ea28d1580b35f5f29dd298861c1d8.jpg

 

 

Passenger kick panel area ground. Easy access and connection.IMG_20240305_2112422.thumb.jpg.71116b0d48c34269961ab7ca1c9fe152.jpg

 

Go up to this ground next to the cabin air filter.

Secure with zip ties to stay

clear of HVAC wires.

IMG_20240805_1655462.thumb.jpg.19809392f8db5de4612990bdf2440161.jpg

 

Edited by Dean H
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Correction regarding this statement -

 

When, I installed the ground to the instrument panel frame by the cabin air filter. My HVAC switched between defrost and floor outlets immediately. 

 

Before, I installed this ground.

My HVAC hesitated when

switching between defrost and floor outlets.

 

After the ground install, it switched outlets immediately.

 

Dean

Edited by Dean H
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I have a 2011 Dodge Journey Crew, we are experiencing we believe to be electrical issues.  The battery light will come on then it will start doing weird thing:  Radio powered down, then while driving my light went out then a bunch of lights showed up on the dashboard (Battery, air bag, engine, traction, brake and ABS) then it started sputtering, the windshield wipers went off a couple times and then it shut down.  I jumped it and made it about 10 feet and it stopped going and just started revving like it was in neutral, sputtered and shut down again.  Any thoughts??  

 

 

Thank you

 

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12 hours ago, Annette said:

I have a 2011 Dodge Journey Crew, we are experiencing we believe to be electrical issues.  The battery light will come on then it will start doing weird thing:  Radio powered down, then while driving my light went out then a bunch of lights showed up on the dashboard (Battery, air bag, engine, traction, brake and ABS) then it started sputtering, the windshield wipers went off a couple times and then it shut down.  I jumped it and made it about 10 feet and it stopped going and just started revving like it was in neutral, sputtered and shut down again.  Any thoughts??  

 

 

Thank you

 

This almost describes exactly what I had recently with my 2013.  And it was the alternator putting out high voltage .Scan the vehicle for codes and see what it says.There will be codes.

 

Read this thread and see

https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18200-tipm-or-pcm/

Edited by yyz
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  • 1 month later...
On 8/6/2024 at 2:25 PM, Dean H said:

Electrical issues?

 

Straight up folks here is the deal.

 

The Journey has a weak electrical system. Dodge made it that way.

 

Most Dodge dealerships don't know what to do with it either.

 

I have identified a weak point, that can be corrected very easily.

 

Drum roll please..........

 

Upgrade your electrical ground system.

 

Yes, that simple.

 

Read to the end.

 

 

A 12-volt automotive circuit consists of a power wire to the load (lights, motor etc.), and the ground wire. The ground wire is a return path to the negative battery terminal.

 

The negative battery cable connects to the ground stud located on the drivers strut tower. From the ground stud, a cable connects to the engine block.

 

From the engine block, wires, straps or cables ground to the chassis.

 

Inside the vehicle all electrical circuits are connected and grounded to the vehicle chassis. The metal chassis is the ground return path to the negative battery terminal.

 

Weak grounds that are corroded or loose. Will cause all kinds of strange electrical problems.

 

Cleaning all grounds first is important. To prevent misdiagnosing and replacing parts that are good.

 

This is why, we keep telling people check and clean your connections and grounds.

 

On the Journey the ground system needs a few upgrades to be considered reliable. Dodge cut costs on the electrical system battery cables. They used 4-gauge (AWG). Should have been 2-gauge (AWG). Better engine block to chassis grounds is needed.

 

So, my plan is to connect as many grounds as possible by cable to the negative battery terminal.

 

1) Battery ground stud to engine block ground stud. Adkd a 2 gauge Cable. Leave the stock ground cable alone.

 

2) Passenger engine mount. 4-gauge cable to passenger strut tower ground stud.

 

3) Passenger strut tower ground studs. Connect them together with wire or use a 2 " mending plate modified to fit.

 

4) Drivers strut tower. Connect the 2 smaller ground studs together. Then connect them to the large battery ground stud. Use wire or 2" mending plate modified to fit. 

 

The 2-gauge cable from the battery ground stud to the engine block stud. The starter and alternator ground through the engine block. 

 

This upgrade is very important to starting and charging of the vehicle. The engine block is an important part of the ground system.

 

Parts needed -2 gauge (AWG) cable black, 10 ft long with 3 /8" hole lug ends.

 

The 4-gauge cable ground from the passenger engine mount to the strut tower ground. Ties that side of the vehicle in to the ground system.

 

Parts needed -4 gauge (AWG) black, 3 ft long with 5 /16" lug ends.

 

Connecting the strut tower grounds together completes the direct connection to the battery negative terminal.

 

Parts needed- Wire or 2" mending plates. Drill out the holes until it fits.

 

An additional ground that takes some work,is to run a 4-gauge cable from the engine block stud into the interior.

 

Connecting to the bare metal of the Instrument panel frame.

 

I ran this ground cable right along with the transmission shifter cable into the vehicle.

 

The instrument panel frame has the grounds for 90% of the electronic modules on the Journey directly connected to it. These modules need the best direct ground possible. 

 

The HVAC module is one of them. This one needs the best ground possible.

 

Get these upgrades done first. Then see what is happening and proceed on to troubleshooting and testing components.

 

I have been running this basic ground upgrade for a year now.

 

When, I installed the ground to the instrument panel frame by the cabin air filter. My HVAC switched between defrost and floor outlets immediately. 

 

Studying the improvement of the HVAC turning on by itself. 

 

Photos are in the next post. 

 

Where to buy parts in another post.

 

 

Dean

Does the #2 gauge wire come pre termed with 3/8 lugs, or did you do that yourself?

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You can buy it on eBay in your length and lug size needed.

 

I have bought from this ebay seller. Who does good work.

https://www.ebay.com/str/acdcwireandsupply?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MvbsRTEuTMK&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=i3l8BOlITT-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Or Amazon search for 2 gauge battery cables.

Edited by Dean H
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  • 7 months later...

This is the interior ground cable system. I installed on my 16 DJ 3.6 engine.

 

This a basic map of the interior grounds on a 2016 Journey.

 

1) Left and right kick panel areas.

 

Left side - Inaccessible, located behind emergency brake foot pedal assembly. 

 

Right side - Drop glove box down and look to the right.

image.thumb.jpg.99dc4c9c88c2e7a1cffae393925f87e4.jpg

 

 

2) Grounds Located under both front seats. All of the electrical circuits on the doors use these grounds,

 

Slide the seats full back. There is a raised part of the frame, that the seat bolts too. 

 

On the back of this raised frame. The carpet is cut open. The ground is in there. 

 

There are grounds in the rear tailgate area as well. 

 

Continued below.

Edited by Dean H
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3.6 V6 engine

 

First remove the engine air filter box and intake tube.

 

Look for the large wire harness that runs from the TIPM to the engine.

 

The engine ground stud is located between the large wire harness and the vacuum pump.

 

The battery negative cable connection goes to this stud. 

IMG_20240620_1420292.thumb.jpg.7368e3e31d0e010606ca279c517d89b0.jpg

 

IMG_20240222_1800292.thumb.jpg.3c219e7983a24400b0441d3f78e3bb5b.jpg

 

I ran a cable from this stud into the interior. Ran it along with the transmission shifter cable.  

 

 Inside, I installed a bolt to connect all the grounds together. At the base of the center console. Beneath the HVAC unit.

IMG_20250521_151243.thumb.jpg.561ad06826edd125521b3cd2615fc795.jpg

To access this location. There is some trim that hangs below the glove box.

You have to remove 2 snap in trim clips on it.

 

1) Ran a cable up to the dash bracket next to cabin air filter. Behind glove box and to the left.

IMG_20250521_1520282.thumb.jpg.e90057186316b3461306147825e38a76.jpg

 

Continued below-

 

 

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2) Cable to pass kick panel ground. Release glove box and look to the right.

IMG_20240411_191048.thumb.jpg.31b62248d13606d6b28b666c44ab1eae.jpg

 

 

3) Cable to brake pedal assembly mounting bolts. Close enough to the left kick panel ground. 

IMG_20240310_195510.thumb.jpg.77a724abad1ce680209118f7e9f07bf1.jpg

 

 

 

4) I,connected to the door grounds under the front seats. As well.

 

A few pounds of prevention, too much time and 4 gauge cable. This is the result?

 

 

Check out the neighborhood 

rooster. 

image.thumb.jpg.25e182080fe2453a70811d2c4d6e9b34.jpg

Edited by Dean H
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  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...

Yes hello dean, I’m having an issue maybe similar I’m not to sure. You see my mother haves a 2020 dodge journey crossroad fwd lnline 4 engine and she was at the gas station getting gas while she was inside and came back the car did not want to start up, she opened the door no lights on the dash or the interior lights, so we tried giving it a jump, even used a truck and waited about 15 minutes to 10. The lights would come on with jumper cables being used but once disconnected even waiting that long the car would shut right back off, battery is good cause I went ahead and took it off and went to AutoZone they cleared it, alternator is new I understand it could be faulty but I highly doubt that’s the case, is there anything that could be done in this situation? Maybe the grounds?

 

 

-Paul

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  • 2 months later...

Hello Dean H.  It was very informative reading through this post, and helpful in my decision to make some of these modifications to help with some of my Journey's issues.  I would greatly appreciate gaining insight from a couple questions that I have, should you be available to answer them.  I read through this all thoroughly, but want to confirm a couple things.  From what I can see, from the drivers side strut tower, you made modifications including the 2" mending bars.  It also appears that a thick wire on the negative jump post was  added/changed/modified?  I know that the original front lug here is for the wire going down to connect to the battery behind the wheel well.  I just wanted some clarity as to what this seemingly new wire is for and where it goes?  Also on the smaller "middle" positioned ground stud on the drivers strut tower there is a new wire in the photos that travels down somewhere.  I'd like to know where this goes as well.  As I understand it, I need to run a wire from the engine ground stud under the vacuum pump into the car through the firewall grommet, alongside the transmission shifter cable.  If that is correct, I wanted to know about how long this cable needs to be, I want to cut the correct length... and to be sure, I can connect this same cable to the interior dash bracket (next to cabin air filter, behind glove box to the left, the brownish copper colored bracket that has nut/bolt already placed on it)?  I wasn't going to be running wires to under the seats at this time, and wanted to be sure that the wire ran to the dash bracket would ground the TCM and other important components here.  I greatly appreciate any insight and assistance with my questions.

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Hello,

 

First, when I did this work, I had too much bulk cable and time and got a little crazy.

 

First check out my thread on the battery below.

 

https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/

 

 

A realistic ground upgrade would be this.

 

Passenger motor Mount to

strut tower ground studs.

 

This is a weak ground.

- 4 or 6 gauge cable to replace small ground wire.

- mending bar or wire stud to stud.

 

Driver's side strut tower battery ground stud. 

 

- 2 gauge cable from this stud to the engine block stud.

   Next to the electric vacuum pump. You need ⅜" size lugs on both ends of the cable.

 

-Running a cable inside to the factory stud on the passenger side kick panel.

To the right of the glove box.

 

-A cable to the bolt to the left of the cabin air filter.

 

That is all you need.

 

I wish, I knew the length of cable to the interior. I don't.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Dean H
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To answer your questions regarding the grounds on the driver's side strut tower.

 

IMG_20260416_190456.thumb.jpg.419dec758f9a886565f58120f83ee2ab.jpg

 

On the large stud is a 2 gauge cable to battery. 2 gauge to the engine block ground stud.

 

On the middle stud is 4 gauge ground to the engine block somewhere.  I did that first before upgrading everything.

Just left it on.

Edited by Dean H
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