Jump to content

2013 Intermittent battery drain


Recommended Posts

I have a 2013 R/T, changed the battery in January as it was getting weak on cold starts over the last year.  Last month wife comes out and its stone dead, instrument cluster won't come on and can't even unlock the doors.  Charged it up, started and ran fine until last week.  This time it had enough juice to unlock the doors and the display worked but would not start because "key not detected" even though I changed the FOB battery a month ago.  No CEL, no charging light, no sign of any issue.  I read something about the bluetooth module but the BT seems to be working fine.  Thoughts?

 

Any experience or input is appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

first off before unloading the parts cannon HAVE you had the battery load checked at the local part store to make sure it isn't going??? ,or bad even fairly new batteries can go bad, that is why they give youa warranty, also have them check your alt to make sure it is putting out the correct amps...also check to make sure nothing is plugged into any of the power outlet other than the one in the dash, as all the others stay hot all the time.. Welcome to the group.... and also there is a lot of info in the forum postings from the bluetooth module going bad, to door latches accidentally turning the lights on during the nights, and many other crazy options ...start with the cheapest and get the battery and alt checked its FREEEEEEE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I also have a 2013 Dodge Journey RT. Everything you described was EXACTLY what mine was doing. I had a TERRIBLE parasitic draw and I had taken it to multiple mechanics and they couldn't find the source. All they would do was replace my battery, and it would be fine for a couple weeks, then die again. As my absolute last resort, I took it to a dealership and they found the source: the bluetooth module. It had been disconnected by another mechanic before, but it was still pulling power from the battery and other electronics in my car. They pulled out the entire bluetooth module (the mechanic before only disabled/disconnected it), and everything went back to normal. It was doing the same funky things you described, and it automatically went completely back to normal. Ironically enough, the bluetooth never worked at all for me since I first got the car, so it didn't really bother me taking it out anyway! To replace the bluetooth module, the dealership I went to priced it at about $1300 give or take, so I said just leave it out, since I never used it anyway. Hope this helps you with your troubles! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

hmmmm....same issue here.  Installed a new battery so thats not likely to be it.  I'm getting 140 milliamps draw which kills the battery charge, albiet slowly.  I also lost BT and I thought replacing that module would fix the BT as well as the parasitic draw.   I did get BT back, but still have 140 mA draw when off. 

 

I disconnected the negative battery cable from the ground post on the vehicle, put my meter in series between the battery cable and ground post on the vehicle, removed all fuses in both locations (1 at a time), but did not change the 140 mA draw

 

Things that had happened prior to this issue, in case something might be related........

-replaced the passenger side speed sensor at the wheel

-went into limp mode after putting on the temporary use spare (passenger side rear axle) and then pressing the ESC OFF button on the dash, thinking that would turn the ESC system off since the diameters of the rear wheels were obviously way different.  Realized pressing the ESC OFF button seems to actually turn it on, because the car went into limp mode (still not sure I understand that button)

-fixed the severed wires leading to the rearview camera

-replace 1 bad (?) fuel injector and spark plug (misfire on middle cylinder closest to firewall) - also ran some magic fluid (lucas?) into gas tank

-oil change, new oil in rear diff, new cabin air filter

 

Any ideas what else to check?

 

tia

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was it a new or used BT module you installed.  I would again pull fuse for the bt in the passenger side kick panel, see what draw is after 2-3 mins with key off, door closed. It’s most common parasitic draw on Journeys.

Could also check glove box light is off, nothing plugged in all 5 charging ports. 
Bad diode in alternator might cause draw. Try unplugging it or removing alt fuse and measuring draw again.

 

Image upside down is usually camera going bad. Has been a few posts about it on forum.

The limp mode wasn’t the tcs switch, it was a flaky abs sensor triggering it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...