Tedybear315 Posted September 18, 2020 Report Share Posted September 18, 2020 Quick one I hope. Have our 2010 Journey that has been weeping fluid from the 'rear' side cover. This would be the large one that covers the two rather large gears. The metal is all rotted out and it's not long for this world. I did manage to source a used one in decent shape. While the wife and I started to look it over, we decided to get the filter/fluid changed at the same time. (94k on the clock, it's about due). Trying to wrap my head around how to access the upper bolts that are hidden by the LF inner frame rail. I can reach all but the upper 3 bolts. And they are all pretty angry with rust. (I have extra bolts already...) Is there a way to drop the transmission about 1 1/2" to allow for access to those top bolts? I'm thinking maybe removing the transmission mount that is under the air filter/fuse panel. Once that air box is removed, it's really wide open- Except where the side gear cover is bolted up there. We've hit a lot of snags with this Journey. We discovered the lower pan (filter access) is rotted as well. Thankfully that one I can local purchase a replacement that has a drain plug. While we had it up in the air on the stands- Found a severely worn ball joint on the same side as the cover that needs replacement. And we're still arguing with the starter issue from time to time, but at least it's somewhat manageable until we can dig deeper. Please do not say "Take it to a shop/dealership". Funds are vanishing sense I'm still unemployed and furloughed. So when the local shop quoted me about $400ish for a side cover and fluid filter change? (add about another $70 give/take for list price for the oil pan) I'm sure quite a few people can afford that with ease. My repair fund(s) are slowly getting depleted and we need to do as much as we can. Thanks!! And a hearty "Screw Off" to the people that figured the average owner wasn't smart enough to check his or her own transmission fluid...... Yeah, I broke down and purchased the 'dipstick' and 'temp chart'. Fairly sad that's how we're moving.... (Duh.....how do you insert a dip stick.....?) S- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 19, 2020 Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 good luck with your repairs, i am sure someone on here MIGHT help you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedybear315 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 1 minute ago, 2late4u said: good luck with your repairs, i am sure someone on here MIGHT help you We can only hope! The transmission shop stated the side cover rusting out is super common here in the rust belt. Wish I was back to work and could afford the repair shop fees. However I need to do the economics: Couple hundred in parts alone (fluid, filter/gaskets/etc... And both covers that are rusted out.....) Or have a shop do it and spend $200-$300 in additional labor fees.... Have a good day! S- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 19, 2020 Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 we have a few mech that respond with a lot of great info to most of the posters, might take a day or so for them to see your request Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedybear315 Posted September 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 1 minute ago, 2late4u said: we have a few mech that respond with a lot of great info to most of the posters, might take a day or so for them to see your request Cool. I wish the hard copy shop manuals where available on this one. I used to be a mechanic years ago before changing careers. So I know enough basics to be dangerous. I also know enough to ASK! for help when I'm left wondering "How in the He** is anyone expected to get a socket or wrench THERE?!" S- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 19, 2020 Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 Transmissions are rebuilt out of the car, which is when covers come off I believe. Engine/transmission is held in place with a subframe. Mechanics often drop the whole thing on a hoist as one unit onto the floor. This involves unhooking all wire harnesses and both c/v shafts among other things. Very time consuming. . Lots of lube needed on the rusty bolts, you don’t want to remove them all the way. You may lose your wheel alignment, but you could loosen the subframe mounts and allow the assembly to drop an inch or so Without unhooking the usual stuff to lower whole assembly. Would need to support body really well on truck axle stands and have vehicle as high in air as possible. Might require a second set of hands pulling the frame back up using the big frame fastners. I had all four subframe fastner washers replaced on a 1988 Taurus under a recall. Steering wheel was off a quarter after job was done by dealer mechanic. Difficult part was now explaining to service advicer that they now needed to do alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 19, 2020 Report Share Posted September 19, 2020 (edited) Also buy fresh silicone rtv rated for oil use.Make sure sealant sits for 24 hrs before putting oil back in tranny. Tranny shops have special sealer that is driveable in 30 mins, not sold in regular parts stores. Degrease the sealing surfaces with non greasy solvent like lacquer thinner or acetone, not varsol. You may be able to lower only one side for clearance to bolts. Edited September 19, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carter3Journey Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 Removal REMOVAL IAT SENSOR CONNECTOR Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the intake air temperature sensor (2), located at the air cleaner housing. AIR BOX Remove the hold down bolt (1) and hose clamp (2) at the air cleaner housing. Remove the air cleaner housing. SHIFT CABLE FROM MANUAL LEVER Disconnect the gearshift cable (1) from the transaxle manual valve lever (2). Remove the gearshift cable from the bracket. CKP SENSOR. Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from the crankshaft position sensor (3). Remove the hold down bolt (1) from the crankshaft position sensor (3). Remove the crankshaft position sensor. COOLER LINES AT TRANS Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the transaxle using Trans Cooler Line Disconnect Disconnect, Transmission Cooler Line (Refer to Cooling/Transmission/TUBES AND HOSES, Transmission Oil Cooler - Standard Procedure). TRANS HARNESS CONNECTOR NOTE The transmission harness will be removed with the transaxle. Disconnect the transaxle electrical connector at the powertrain control module. UPPER TRANSMISSION BOLTS Remove the transaxle upper bellhousing-to-block bolts (3). REAR MOUNT TOP BOLTS Remove rear transaxle mount bracket bolts (1). GROUND CABLE AT FRONT MOUNT Remove the bolt (2) holding the ground cable (3) to the front mount bracket (1). Raise the vehicle on the hoist. Remove both halfshafts (Refer to Differential and Driveline/Half Shaft - Removal)(Refer To List 1). Remove the front and both side splash shields (Refer to Body/Exterior/SHIELD, Splash - Removal)(Refer To List 2). Remove the power takeoff unit, if equipped. CROSSMEMBER THROUGH BOLT Remove the mount through bolt (1). TRANS CROSSMEMBER Remove the transmission crossmember bolts (2). Remove the transmission crossmember. FRONT MOUNT BRACKET Remove the front mount bracket bolts (1). Remove the front mount bracket (2). Starter Motor and Shim Disconnect starter motor electrical connectors and remove the retaining bolts (3), starter motor (1) and shim (2). EXHAUST BRACKET AT INSPECTION CO Remove the bolts (3) from the exhaust bracket. Remove the cross under pipe (Refer to Exhaust System/PIPE, Exhaust Crossunder - Removal). Remove the bolts (2) to stand off bracket (4). Remove the bracket (4). DUST SHIELD Remove the torque converter dust shield bolt (3). Remove the torque converter dust shield (2). TORQUE CONVERTER BOLTS Remove the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts (1). Upon removing bolts, a tight-tolerance (slotted) bolt will be encountered. Mark this location (driveplate and converter) with paint for assembly reference. TORQUE CONVERTER BOLTS Install a transmission jack and support the engine. Secure transaxle to jack. NOTE The bolts on each side of the inspection opening were removed with the exhaust bracket. Remove the transaxle-to-engine lower bolts (2). LEFT MOUNT BOLTS Remove the left side transmission mount bolts (2) and remove the mount (1). Lower transaxle from engine compartment. Solenoid Connector at Transmission Disconnect the solenoid/pressure switch assembly connector (2). OUTPUT SPEED SENSORS Disconnect both output speed sensor connectors (1, 2). Disconnect the input speed sensor connector. Remove the harness from transaxle. Refer To List: List 1 03 - Differential and Driveline / Half Shaft, Front / Removal 03 - Differential and Driveline / Half Shaft, Rear / Removal List 2 23 - Body / Exterior / SHIELD, Splash, Front Wheelhouse / Removal 23 - Body / Exterior / SHIELD, Splash, Rear Wheelhouse / Removal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 He is not planning on removing transaxle from vehicle, want to try and change cover with it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carter3Journey Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 whats a part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Single piece on car, like a transmission side cover that he wants to change because it is leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedybear315 Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 We can all "Stand Down". I wound up having a well known transmission shop down in Syracuse, NY do the replacement and at the same time do a fluid/filter change. So when anyone asks me "What'd ya spend your covid-19 check fer?" I can say " Oh about 5 hours labor time plus parts to change out a stupid cover on a transmission, Dodge decided to put the upper lip behind the rail in the engine bay." I talked with the managers of the shop. Seems this variant of the Journey packs the transmission in pretty tight to the rail just under the TIPM. There is no way to get a socket or a wrench to remove the upper screws. I can state it's accurate. Even if you could get the bolts out, You still need to have the pan pulled away from the drive gears, room to clean the mating surfaces, prep, and install the new cover. Total cluster.... The shop unbolted the engine and transmission mounts and jacked the engine and transmission up and over to get clearance needed. Being we are in upstate NY, Most of that job was dealing with fasteners that didn't want to play nice. Let's just say the final bill parts & labor came to a bit more then I think anyone would want to spend. And it all could have been prevented if only Dodge's designers used a cheap plastic cover over the gear cover to keep it from rotting out. Needless to say the pans replaced will be given a coating of Fluid Film before the snow flies... S- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Glad you got it done. I figured on a rack subframe could be shifted. But rack tied up not making money during whole procedure so not a cheap job. Money well spent with your low milage. You will need reliable vehicle when dust settles from covid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedybear315 Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Low miles is debatable. It just hit 95,000 and I'm not sure what the life is for the drive train. We do have planned out the timing belt and all related parts before the snow flies. And of course are still fighting with the intermittent 'no crank' which will magically cure itself after doing random things (applying parking brake...releasing it...Shifting through all gears...and then back to park.... Totally random and annoying) The shop looked at that issue (seems it did it to them as well......) He came back with probably a bad TIPM as they are known to fail. I mentioned we've replaced it 3 times. (We are on the 4th. Original one--random no crank, random horn honks; 2nd one: Horn behaved itself, Cooling fan would run on it's own killing the battery overnight...Didn't get far enough to see it the no crank issue was present; 3rd... Worked okay, intermittent no crank. 4th....Worked okay, intermittent no crank. I nipped that one from the Pick and Pull from a Dodge van that had a front end crash.....) So we'll continue that along in the other thread as I learn more. Thankfully it's not left me walking yet. S- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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