Shawn855 Posted August 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 yeah. Hoping it's this. Running out of parts to change hahaha. It wouldn't be the steering rack eh? Steering is nice and tight but can't rule that out too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted August 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 Okay good because that's one part I don't want to change lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Well I figured it out. And I still can't believe it's this that caused vibration in the steering wheel: it was my REAR upper control arms. The bushings were finished. Changed them out and the vibration is completely gone. I know, I'm as baffled as you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 dont forget to get an alignment ,did you go with the oem ones i kept having a problem with thoes things and went with the adjustable ones they are after market but a better design to them? Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Alignment is booked for Tuesday. I went with the MOOG non-adjustable ones. I asked my mechanic if i should get adjustable ones and he said non adjustable is fine and that he will still be able to align it so we shall see. Worst case scenario is I would have to order the adjustable ones which is fine, because now the rust is off the bolts so changing them will take me 10 mins instead of a half hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 8 hours ago, Shawn855 said: Alignment is booked for Tuesday. I went with the MOOG non-adjustable ones. I asked my mechanic if i should get adjustable ones and he said non adjustable is fine and that he will still be able to align it so we shall see. Worst case scenario is I would have to order the adjustable ones which is fine, because now the rust is off the bolts so changing them will take me 10 mins instead of a half hour. dont know why i have had problems with mine unless its the added weight from my wife's medical scooter that we carry on a rack that is held up by the tow hitch,, never had a problem with my 2011 but at that time i would load the scooter into the rear hatch back,,,but got tired of that with my 2014.. LOL and also was couple of yrs older as well Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 I was surprised how bad mine were. Only 80k kms, and i was literally able to grab them and move the bushing with 2 fingers all willy-nilly. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 update: son of a bitch lol. so the vibration is pretty much gone except for the first 5 mins of driving the suv. This was the main issue i was chasing since last winter, but for the first 5 mins of driving, theres lots of vibrations in the wheel, and seat, and pedal. But also after starting the car on a cold start, theres some vibrations in the seat for about 20 seconds then it smoothes off. So im thinking engine mount(s) is the culprit. What else could it be at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Yeah...i was suspecting also perhaps the engine or tranny running a bit rougher while its cold while driving (since tranny only warms up while being driven), but im pretty sure i would notice some power loss or SOMETHING related to performance. But it drives good. Just that freaking shaking/vibration ffs. Maybe ill connect my OBD2 scanner to see if i can spot anything out of the ordinary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 (edited) I chased a weird vibration in my brothers 2008 Hyundai Entourage a few years ago (it’s still on road with 260k) and multiple mechanics looked at it, including a former 15 yr dealership mechanic. Eventually I found problem. Motor mounts and wheel balancing etc where all performed. The only hint was that it was worse under load going up hill. Turned out to be the intermediate shaft that is attatched to passenger c/v shaft. Journey has one as well. Might be able to remove from car and feel the extra play in it, without buying it in case it’s not the issue. Car needs to be moving for this to be issue obviously. Idle vibration would be other cause. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,drivetrain,cv+intermediate+shaft,14499 Edited September 11, 2020 by John/Horace Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Would a cv axle or even an intermediate shaft vibration come and go though? Again it seems to go away/get better while driving it. If I lived in town I probably would never notice it because the vehicle would have a chance to warm up by the time I got to the hwy. But I live on the hwy so I'm going 0 - 100 km/hr from my house to my work. And on brand new pavement so I notice it a lot more now. How would I diagnose that? Remove the cv axle, then grab the intermediate shaft and try to wiggle it side to side? I believe this is the part here eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 The "carrier bearing" of that shaft (just in from the splined end) is a common weak point on all the various models that share the same drivetrain(the vans, Avenger,200,sebring). You should be able to move the shaft around and "feel" see movement from the shaft IF it's bad. Otherwise, the front motor mount is very known for going bad on these same vehicles mentioned for same kind of symptoms you post of. Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Thanks guys. I'll focus on these two areas first. Would I be able to feel any movement in the intermediate shaft if its still connected to the cv axle or would I have to remove the cv axle first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Should be able to "check it over" with all assembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Wouldn't it vibrate all the time, if it were an axle/intermediate shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 5 minutes ago, Shawn855 said: Wouldn't it vibrate all the time, if it were an axle/intermediate shaft? Not necessarily. depends more on torque loading conditions of driving to feel it as you describe. You've been given much the same opinion by 2 different members...try doing the checks and don't overthink the situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Will do. I'll check the intermediate shaft bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 13, 2020 Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 Rear mount is only one that’s cheap, it’s really a roll stop more than a mount. Look if rubber has separated from the metal casting. Your milage is kinda low for a mount, but it’s possible. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10195836&cc=1502335&jsn=680&jsn=680 Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2020 That mount is for the 2.4L engine. I priced out the 3 engine mounts and 1 transmission mount, and it would come up to about $230 shipped. The side mounts I can do myself. The front and rear I may get my mechanic to do. From what I'm hearing, it's the front and rear engine mounts that are changed often on this suv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 When mounts are bad you can usually see too much movement. The rubber flex has torn away from the metal bracket part of mount. Try to get your hands on the new part some where where you can get an idea of approx how much play there is when in normal condition. Parts Source or other parts place. The front and rear roll stopS are not hard to change on most cars; just need to support engine with a jack and piece of wood so holes stay in alignment. Shawn855 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 I attached my obd2 scanner before cold starting the SUV and it showed cylinder 3 misfiring twice. Took it for a ride, no more misfiring. Started the engine while warm, no misfiring. So cylinder 3 is misfiring when cold starting the vehicle. Spark plug and coil pack is my next purchase or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 14, 2020 Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 (edited) Should have started a new post for this. The mil light was on and you didn’t notice, or is it not turning on light? That would create vibration, especially at hiway speed where engine and transmission are over the 1:1 power transfer ratio. Cheaper than motor mounts and a normal wear item, a win really. How many K’s on plugs? Fair amount of work changing plugs, lots of harness plugs and clips, not difficult just time consuming. I would consider having coil because of the approx 1 hour it takes to go back in a second time. Use a proper iridium plug, I used NGK on mine a year ago, working fine no issues in 40k kilometers. I usually mark a suspect bad coil and move to another cyclinder to confirm if it sets code a second time. Because of location I would put in new plugs if still original, and one new coil for middle cyclinder 3 on the rear head. Use a torque wrench for the plugs. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DceDydONPrss&psig=AOvVaw2ySTfw_l1eIiCDwdS_jRA2&ust=1600213077854000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=2ahUKEwje1-qx6OnrAhUaAp0JHf9EDokQr4kDegUIARCwAQ Edited September 14, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 Haha yeah I was thinking of making a new topic while I was replying earlier. No engine light or anything. Only what my scanner picked up. Too soon to tell if it's related to the hwy vibration, as the misfire only happened while idling after cold start. Once I started driving on the hwy, no other misfires appeared. 85k kms on plugs, but I've been feeling the cold start engine shake since buying the vehicle at 60k kms. May I ask why you changed your spark plug(s) at 40k kms? We're you experiencing misfires already as well? Hrmm will need to research what the torque spec is for spark plugs. Haven't seen it in my manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 Just started it again since letting it sit for 2 hours so the engine wasnt completely cold but also not completely warm. It gave 1 misfire - cylinder 3. So basically the colder the engine, the more misfires on cylinder 3. I'll keep monitoring it throughout the week to see if I get misfires whole driving and/or to see if I get more than 2 misfires on cold start. Hoping I get misfires while driving so that we can say we figured out the cause. I'll also be cleaning my mass airflow sensor with the specialized cleaner in case it's dirty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 (edited) Spoiler Spoiler Started it again last night to show my friend. Engine was cold. No misfire. Started it this morning and it was freezing overnight - no misfire, but still a bit of shaking omw to work until vehicle warmed up. Thankfully cylinder 3 is muuuuchhh easier to access than cylinder 2 4 6 so i'll probably just change the 1 cylinder and coil for now. As for the vibration while vehicle is warming up, i'm honestly thinking it's my tires developing flat spots. The tires themselves are 5 years old. Edit: I bought a set of winter tires so we will know the answer in a month or so lol. Man, troubleshooting vehicles is a pain in the @$$. I'm a network administrator and i find configuring or fixing routers, switches, firewalls, etc, to be way easier than this nonsense lol Edited September 15, 2020 by Shawn855 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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