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dhh3

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Posts posted by dhh3

  1. The Trailer Tow Group for the DJ is the most Mickey Mouse outfit that I have ever seen.  Mine came with the harness that runs to the back of the car and also came with the oil cooler.  I found the small harness with all the relays on eBay.  BINGO.  I now have the Trailer Tow Group.  It was not listed on my window sticker.  I had my Dealer install the Mopar Hitch, added the Sales Code and energized the harness.  I can tow!

  2. Mine is also a 6-speed with slap-shift.  The difference has to be the clutch plate/PTO.  I was hoping that there would just be a plate that could be removed and the clutch pack/PTO bolted in place.  But there are two transmissions listed for each engine.  It may be the final drive ratio to match the rear differential.

  3. I was going to mention oemautopartsco.com.  They sell on ebay, and off of their website.  They are very knowledgeable and can answer all of your questions.  I had the RBZ MyGig in my Nitro and it is the non-nav version.  I believe that the screen at the top of your dash is for a back up camera and would run off of the MyGig, along with the rear VES.  There is an 800 number on their website so you can call and let them know  what you have and what you need.  I have purchased 3 radios from them.  They are either dealer take outs or from total loss vehicles.  Some NOS.  They bench test every radio, and will replace the screen if there are any scratches.  All of their radios are loaded with the most up to date software.

     

    I was looking into the possibility of converting my DJ from FWD to AWD.  Cheaper than purchasing a new vehicle (at least $5,000 in parts alone, but I haven't found out if it can be done because of the electronics)  Two transmissions are listed for each engine:  FWD and AWD.  I'm guessing that the clutch pack/PTO for the rear drive shaft must be part of the AWD transmission, and that is why you are seeing ATF leaking from it.  I would also check the transmission fluid level.

  4. My extended warranty was rolled into my payment.  That being said, you should have still had the use of your brakes; albeit without power assist.  If you couldn't steer, the electronics would have had to put it in Park, which would lock the transmission.  You didn't mention the sounds of the transmission self destruction, so I doubt if this was the case.  You should have still been able to steer the car without power steering.  You need to finish your story.

    Did you drift to a stop in the lane that you were in?

    Did you try to restart the car?

    Did any dash lights come on?

    You need to bring the car someplace that has a code reader to see if any codes were thrown.  This will begin your search.

    Could be as simple as a loose ground wire, but this, in itself, becomes a wild goose chase.

  5. 2 hours ago, pmjay said:

    So are the connection rod bearings the most likely thing to have been damaged but a lack of oil? They then cause the piston rings to fail? 

    I guess this will be somewhere to start. I don't think my local guy is interested. May need to call the dealer...this could get ugly/costly fast. With all the vehicles I've had over the years...this is a first.:(

    Possibly.  But they are where the connecting rods connect to the crankshaft; thus the lowest part of the engine.  I think that they are lubricated by oil lines aimed at them.  If they wear, piston slap means that the connecting rods are not rotating in a circular motion which causes the pistons to move back and forth within the cylinder (piston slap).  This will put undue pressure on the piston rings.  If you heard a noise, this is probably what you heard.  If you go to your Dealer, you are going to pay Dealer Labor Costs, which are usually higher than shops.  Doing a compression check entails removing a spark plug, and screwing in a pressure gauge which will give you the compression of the cylinder.  You have a 2010 R/T which probably means you have the 3.5.  To change the plugs in the 3.5, you have to first remove the intake manifold.  This is why your mechanic may not want to do this.  If your valve seals are still good, and it is determined to be the rod bearings, you may need a short block.  Let's hope that you didn't spin a rod bearing. (rotates in the block housing) = new short block. :-(

  6. I purchased a set of red caliper covers that were listed to fit my 2014 Crossroad.  Neither the fronts or backs would fit.  My tire shop played around with them for about two hours and nothing worked.  All 4 continued to rub.  My tire shop mgr seemed ticked off, but he didn't charge me anything.  I bought them on eBay and the seller suggested that I purchase a set of wheel spacers.  All the spacers I could find had numerous oval holes on them, which indicates that they would fit multiple wheel lug dimensions.  I could not find a set with five round holes that would fit the DJ.  I sent the caliper covers back, and my money was refunded.  Something seems odd/different with the Crossroad Calipers.

    Now they are offered in yellow.  Would really like to have these!

  7. I would get a compression check on all cylinders.  Your local mechanic should be able to do this for you.  This will tell you that the valve seals and piston rings are still good, or not.  If the noise that you heard was piston slap. this would indicate that the connection rod bearings are bad, which in turn will cause the piston rings to fail.  Could be just one cylinder or all 6.

  8. Learned something new.  The Crossroads have their own specific front calipers.  I'd be curious to see what the difference is.

     

    Another oddball:  the Mopar hitch is listed as not fitting the Crossroad.  Dealer installed it:  no issues.

  9. FYI  These are halogen projectors, not HID projectors.  I just replaced my bulbs with zXes.  Seller had "make offer" on ebay and I got them for $32 a pair.  Package says lifetime of these bulbs are not as long as regular halogens.  But, they are much brighter in my stock Crossroad housings with the inside painted black.  Time will tell.

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