SeoulJourney

@Jkeaton I saw in your post on dodge forums you asked this question exactly. http://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-dakota/260260-interior-dome-light-wiring.html
I wonder if the location is the same because I'm going for the same effect. I think I need to tap directly into the dome light and not the supervision wire to get the right effect.

Honestly, this is not a bad deal considering that you get LED running lights, angel eyes, and projectors all in a custom built headlight housing. It is possible to get it done yourself with higher quality projectors, however, they will likely use a proprietary HID bulb and not a standard bulb like the H7 they have listed. The Retrofit source has bi-xenons for $270 and the cheapest headlight housings on amazon are $220. That's almost $500 without any angel eyes or the install. The quality remains to be seen but if the price drops then it might be hard to resist. I'll be watching this one.

Seems like you had a lot of problems for a semi-expensive HID kit. I've heard nothing but great reviews about DDM tuning HID kits...and they're about half the price. Why not just go with DDM?

Here's the remote controls...forward (greed LED) one is the control for the doors/midbass, and rearward (blue LED) one is the control for the sub:

What the whole thing looks like when it's covered up, and only the sub showing:

The other angle of this:

What the custom intake looks like with the mounting bracket I made to hold it securely:

And the far right of the bracket, where is lodges into the original spot where the stud was on the stock intake:

Tomorrow night I'll post the pics of how to rip all that stuff apart, including the cool cubbie-hole that's stock in the firewall. Oh, I can't tease...here it is:

This is the piece that comes out:

And this is what it looks like from inside the engine bay:

The red thing you see looking through the hole is something I put down on the floor on the inside, to make it easier to see it (and keep my hair from getting dirty, while bending and contorting like a gymnast to try to get the cables up into there).

Almost forgot....the Rockford tweeters, installed onto the dash. These are bolted in there pretty solid, was quite a challenge to fit the cables under the trim:

Now for the good stuff. My new stereo board, sitting all snug in its new little home:

Closeups:




I got giddy when this box arrived:

For people installing trailer wiring, and wondering where it is....the first pic is where it is located, and what it should look like with the OEM harness installed. The second pic is where the relays attach under the bumper frame:

Okay, so I wasn't going to get any pics posted until everything was done, but the only thing outstanding is the HID lights issue and I need to get a pic of the rear with the cover on and just the sub showing in the back. Other than that, it's game on. A warning to anyone with a low-speed connection...this thread will have tons of pics in it, and may take a while to load. Also, I'm going to post the "what it's like when done" pics first, then will post later in the thread how to take everything apart. That should help people in the future when something won't come apart and they need to know where a bolt of a clip goes.
So here goes...dashcam first.
FRONT:

REAR:

The wiring for this is below all the paneling. Wow, what a chore that was to get the back paneling apart.
Here's an easy one...my many thanks to Nate as rebadgedesigns for doing a MONDO awesome job on the Blacktop badge:

I apologize for the bad lighting on the closeup....but it looks the same as it does in the full rear shot, above:

Thermal battery blanket installed...no more hard starts at -20:

Close-up of the wiring on the top of the battery, including the 1/0 power cable to the stereo:

My K&N intake, heavily modified out of my 392 Hemi. Still need to put the lower bolt on it, to keep it from moving around, but you get the idea. Oh, man, is this loud at WOT:

And it uses all stock PCV hoses. Here's another angle, love the chrome:

Maximum number of pics per post. Will continue in a reply...

Keep in mind that voltage doesn't matter, it's current. An 18 AWG wire is rated for 16 Amps continuous, or about 288 Watts. At 80% load (the industry standard), it can handle a draw of 230W and stay within the safe zone. Even at 24kV, if the draw to do so is only a couple milliAmps, it would be within the safe range. Think of it like a TASER, which fires at 50kV then drops to operating range for pulses at 5kV, all off the equivalent of a standard 9V battery, because it only draws a couple microAmps of current.
You've made me curious, though, so I just ordered a pair of 9006 "extender" cables off EBay, so I can cut one without damaging any factory or HID wiring and drop an ammeter on it to see exactly how much it is drawing when it turns on. Will likely be a couple weeks before I can get results on this (assuming it ships to me early this week)....I'll keep this thread in the "I'll get back to you" list, and will post an update on it as soon as I have further information.
Reference: https://www.eol.ucar.edu/rtf/facilities/isff/LOCAL_access_only/Wire_Size.htm

If you look around some of the other members have posted on the Triton V3 switchbacks. Pricey, but they look good.
I wonder how that Ford had those switchbacks installed without the hyperflashing. From what I understand, we will need the resistors on the Journey. After I finish my HID upgrade, I'll look into this...