bramfrank

The parts aren't defective, they're undersized. And your dealer is a thief. Buy aftermarket parts - 4 rotors will set you back all of $120 and pads about $100. They're not hard to change yourself, but your local handy mechanic likely can do it for $100 in cash or so.
As to affording the cost? Take it out of the money you saved by buying a Journey in the first place.

I won't pick apart your repsponse to my post, but will say that you asked and answered the questions - and the answers are obvious. If you aren't getting serviced properly by your dealer, find another and stop banging your head against the wall at the one you've been using. So, yes. If your dealer isn't fixing your vehicle to your satisfaction and you want the issues resolved, you DO need to get pro-active.
If your vibration started with CT and then persisted through the next tire swap, then perhaps CT damaged the vehicle while installing the tires? Bearings, stering and suspension components are relatively fragile when confronted by ham-fisted mechanics.
As to your wife's honesty? Not in question. However many women do tend not to appreciate the mechanical consequences of some of their actions.

While your dealer is an idiot, you could always have just read the manual.
Scroll down to the last menu entry of the EVIC and right click the 'messages' banner to see what message you may have received.

You'd need to use an mp3 tag editor.

If you wanted to get techinical, the arrow whould always point up, since that is your direction of travel.
Seems to me that it is pointing to the left because you are headed west, which is traditionally depicted os being to the left, north being 'up'.

There isn't a huge amount of clearance between the wheels and the brake calipers - if your 'lovely wife' managed to hit a curb, the wheel could be out of true enough that it is touching the brakes . . . and, the speed in question has the wheels turning at the resonant frequency for the suspension, so any imbalances are magnified.
The noise would also simply be some crud built up on the inner surface of the wheel, tapping the calipers with each revolution.
You could also have a bearing starting to go, or a CV joint.
To know for certtain, take the vehicle to a trusted suspension mechanic, describe your problem and let him have a look.

Don't be put off if the one you are looking at doesn't come with Bluetooth - in the US the high line models include it but it is an extra cost option for all models in Canada and on the lower trim levels in the US. At this time the integrated one cannot be added after the fact no matter what the salesperson says.
If yours doesn't have it you can always get a separate one - mine is a function of my Garmin navigator, though I also have a unit from Scoche that uses the auxiliary input in the console and the sound comes out the built in speakers . . . it switches automatically if you plug your music source in to the aux as well (with this solution you would need to switch over manually to access your phone if you were using the radio or an iPod plugged into the USB)

I don't have a Pentastar, but since fuel consumption is pretty similar for the 4 as compared to the 6 (because economy is largely dictated by power demand, not how many cylinders your engine has - and, of course engine efficiency, and with the 6 speed tranny, the Pentastar engine will sit in the power band (which is the sweet spot for fuel consumption) better with than with the 4 speed unit in the 2.4).
From what I'm reading in this thread, I gather you are resetting the EVIC and going for a drive - analysing stop and go for city driving only is going to look truly ugly, especially if you are using the remote start, sitting in traffic on the 15 or 13 twice a day and more - economy ratings are based on ROLLING TIME and a standard set of road conditions.
You aren't buying E85 because we can't get that in Montreal, but you may well be running E10 - buy your gas at Esso - they don't put Ethanol in their gasoline in Quebec (yet). That could buy you a 10% increase in fuel economy right there. If you are running 'premium' grade gasoline and the engine spec doesn't call for it you could be sacrificing another 5% of your economy (and paying a lot more for the privilege).
Based on your comments that YOU (as opposed to your wife) are getting appropriate mileage for highway runs I strongly suspect that there's nothing wrong with the car.
How much fuel do you put in when you fill up? Note that a tank of gas weighs about 125 pounds and that if you aren't letting it run all the way down you will get noticeable benefits by letting the tank empty before filling up, though if you park indoors at both ends of your commute you could also get condensation in your tank at this time of year - that's a heck of a trade-off..
Going to full synthetic isn't going to help your mileage much, by the way. But as long as you aren't stretching the mileage between oil changes it does help a bit. The idea is that we tend to change our oil because it collects contaminants, not because it breaks down.
And to answer the question someone else asked about stoplight engine shutdowns and air conditioning . . . vehicles that use the technology have electrically powered air conditioning compressors. While fuel consumption may benefit to some degree using stoplight engine shutdowns, battery power is used run the vehicle for the duration of the shutdown and to restart the car and that needs to be replaced, the starter motor and solenoid are exercised more and the vehicle is therefore subject to more wear - and you get heat buildup from an engine switched off in heavy stop and go driving on hot summer days to consider as well.
A comment to he who thought the 19" wheels make a difference . . . they don't, because the wheel/tire combination doesn't weigh appreciably more (in fact I believe it is less, based on my hefting about my 17"" summers and my 16" winter wheels) than a smaller steel wheel with a honking big tire on it but hauling about 500 pounds of engine and AWD hardware DO make a difference in city driving, not to mention that even moderate leadfoot driving in traffic makes a real big difference.
Just the fact that the OP's wife got 30l/100km (7.8 mpg) average mileage in her Jeep may speak volumes. At this point I'd wager that the issue is the driver and the environment.
My EVIC usually says 11.8 or so for my combination of city/driving, but I never reset the unit - my GPS does keep a record of my fuel use, though it is in the car so I can't tell you what it says. I went to Ottawa last week to get my son and the consumption dropped to 9.7 (overall average) and since I'm back has pushed back to 10.5 l/100 km - but those are indicated values, not calculated. I strongly believe that the EVIC does not accumulate averages based on distance travelled since the last reset, but only for some smaller number of miles (which can be restarted) - I think they only look at the last 1000 km or so for the display - because a 400 km trip shouldn't impact on average mileage as much as the trip to Ottawa did.
Edit: I decided that Christmas day was a good time to update the maps in my nav . . . so I had a look at my gas mileage. According to the records I have purchased fuel 18 times (not always filling up, so only the overall averages really count - also, the vehicle wasn't delivered with a full tank of gas, which skews the numbers somewhat in the negative direction.
According to the navigator I have put in some 633 liters of fuel and traveled 5230 km, for an average consumption of 11.98849 liters/100 km (that's 19.706 mpg for you 'muricans) .
I'm no leadfoot and I don't leave the vehicle idling nor have I gotten stuck in traffic for any extended periods - the majority is highway/freeway, but a good 30-40% is in-city driving.
It is about what one would expect for this weight of vehicle during cooling temps - and I've put in about 2/3 of that as E10 which does impact on economy (can't find E0 in the US unless I put in 'high test', which undoes the economy benefits of dumping the ethanol because it costs more and delivers less mileage than 'regular grade' E0 would.. Besides, putting in ethanol every so often is a good thing because it tends to scour things clean in the fuel system as long as it doesn't settle out.
If the OP would like to check out how my SE Plus rides I might be amenable to a ride-along or a swap for a couple of hours.

Your dealer needs a lesson in troubleshooting . . . . if you have sound from other sources, but not the radio, the problem will not be in the amplifier that is common to all of the I/O, but rather the with the component that houses the tuner or with the connections to the radio's antenna - probably a cracked trace on a circuit board or perhaps a poor connection to the antenna - a broken wire that makes the connection after the vibratio of starting - itt pulls open when the wires 'shrink' at night.