bramfrank

He has a CVP with manual seats and the new ones are power (he didn't say whether the passenger one is or not).  Are the connectors the same?  Is there power for the seats (and what of power heat) - because he has the base model the harness might be different.

No matter what, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE DOING THE WORK.

He has a CVP with manual seats and the new ones are power (he didn't say whether the passenger one is or not).  Are the connectors the same?  Is there power for the seats (and what of power heat) - because he has the base model the harness might be different.

No matter what, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE DOING THE WORK.

He has a CVP with manual seats and the new ones are power (he didn't say whether the passenger one is or not).  Are the connectors the same?  Is there power for the seats (and what of power heat) - because he has the base model the harness might be different.

No matter what, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE DOING THE WORK.

Start off by looking up the Magnuson Moss warranty act and then find an honest dealer.

The Journey (in fact every modern vehicle) is filled with expensive electronics and dealers are by and large poor diagnosticians, so if you plan to hang on to the vehicle it is more than possible you'll make money with an extended warranty, especially if you can score one at a discount - and that means shopping  . . . . also noting that if you buy online from out of state you will save any sales taxes that may have otherwise been applicable.

Buy or extended warranty from an online FCA vendor and ONLY buy the OEM one - they are available in different durations and to cover different total mileage - and both without deductibles and with a deductible that applies per claim.  Price-wise the trick is to solicit a quote from one of the online dealers and then follow through - they'll send you a follow-up every so often and you'll save a further couple of hundred dollars.  Note that depending on the age and mileage of your vehicle when you buy te plan Chrysler may require a inspection and the cost could be higher . . . . . .

Start off by looking up the Magnuson Moss warranty act and then find an honest dealer.

The Journey (in fact every modern vehicle) is filled with expensive electronics and dealers are by and large poor diagnosticians, so if you plan to hang on to the vehicle it is more than possible you'll make money with an extended warranty, especially if you can score one at a discount - and that means shopping  . . . . also noting that if you buy online from out of state you will save any sales taxes that may have otherwise been applicable.

Buy or extended warranty from an online FCA vendor and ONLY buy the OEM one - they are available in different durations and to cover different total mileage - and both without deductibles and with a deductible that applies per claim.  Price-wise the trick is to solicit a quote from one of the online dealers and then follow through - they'll send you a follow-up every so often and you'll save a further couple of hundred dollars.  Note that depending on the age and mileage of your vehicle when you buy te plan Chrysler may require a inspection and the cost could be higher . . . . . .

First of all they will not reload your map.  They aren't provided the tool and it takes too long because they haven't learned to multitask and it takes almost 2 hours to execute the reload.

So they will swap out your radio for one that has been reloaded at some other location.  And it will likely crap out again, because radios that HAVE crapped out are more likely susceptible to the memory corruption that occurs.

Reloading your own will ultimately save you time.

Congrats.

Yes, the upgrade is simple to do if you start from the right place (RE2) and have a good, working unit to swap in.

But you're actually quite lucky that you got what you expected.  I've had interaction with several people who received non-nav radios for their money even though the part vendors claimed they were RB5s and the part numbers implied this as well, in one case three in a row before he gave up.

Which generation radio did you get?
 
 

A new record . . . . more than 8 years to get an answer . . . .

I believe FCA can only supply complete assemblies.  And they are expensive.

Check the wrecker network or you can usually find one on eBay for a lot less than new.

It is very easy to do if you already have the 8.2 inch display.  Less so if you don't.

This is my second Journey.  I went the Garmin route on the old one, but did the upgrade on this.  I also added the backup camera to mine.  I find the integration makes a HUGE difference and I have zero regrets.

I believe FCA can only supply complete assemblies.  And they are expensive.

Check the wrecker network or you can usually find one on eBay for a lot less than new.

I believe FCA can only supply complete assemblies.  And they are expensive.

Check the wrecker network or you can usually find one on eBay for a lot less than new.

I'm certain that others will chime in but here's my take.

The R/T was the 'top of the line' for Canada in 2011.  The issues are that it was the first year for the 3.6 litre engine, which was prone to a misfire condition (that FCA would fix for free and for which there is apparently an extended hidden warranty) and it had the smaller brakes (which had the benefit of being able to for 16" wheels for winter use).  If you beat the vehicle the disks would warp, though my '11 never suffered the issue in the 54K miles I owned it.

Be aware that the AWD requires that all 4 tires have roughly equal wear and that if you have a flat that requires you change a tire, you likely will be changing 4 of them.

If you could buy an extended FACTORY warranty you would be protected against possibly expensive electronic repairs - not that there's a specific history of them, but all modern vehicles have lots of computers and older ones can have corrosion/grounding issues and diagnostics and replacement modules can cost - if it hasn't been rust-protected with a spray inhibitor yet I'd certainly have it done. 

You KNOW the answer . . . . people who are too lazy to read the owner's manual and who listen to what salesmen say.

My first ignore!!!

I'm not sure why you needed to replace ANY tires at 20K miles short of a bad hole or some such - you suggested that this was the case.
 
Your relatively low mileage (I get about ~21 MPG in a 50/50 city/highway environment), so depending on your environment, your mileage could be reasonable, or not - this is not a light vehicle we drive and yours is heavier (by virtue of the AWD and perhaps more if you carry things in it and keep your tank full, for example) coupled to hard/erratic shift sounds to me like you may not be as gentle on the pedal as you could be.

Your 'Service Now' started when you replaced the pair of tires - AWD requires that all four be close to each other wear-wise - that's an issue with the style of AWD that many vehicles use today.  You can't just change one tire, two or three unless they are all almost new, but you get hit for 4 at a time when you get a non-repairable flat or wear out some, but not all of them.  However OEM tires don't come with road hazard warranties and even if they did, you'd get replacements only for the defective tires and not for the others.

Your transmission?  Mine doesn't shift hard or erratically - period.  You mentioned having to 'auto-stick' the vehicle (actually you were 'slap-shifting' or 'stick shifting' because you were not letting it 'auto-shift') and realise that it learns nothing when you manually shift the transmission.  And  that the algorithms they shoot for are 'best mileage' which has them try to keep the engine RPMs in the 1-2K rpm range and the shifts quick.  Again, could you have be being tough on the vehicle?  Or perhaps your expectations are unreasonable?

The radio:

Bad news:  The issue with your radio is likely to recur.  You will probably get the 'can't unlock maps' issue again at some point since the radio they stuck in when you had it the first time was one that had the problem, was returned to FCA and simply reloaded with maps and firmware and shipped back out without addressing the underlying issue that caused the failure.

Be happy they included a year of SiriusXM radio (you get FIVE years of traffic for the nav in the US, by the way).  My brother's $60K Lincoln came with 90 days of service.

Mapping?  I am not aware of ANY of the auto manufacturers that include map updates for any amount of time for their in-dash navigators.
 

check the dodge website it will show them all....

I'm not sure why you needed to replace ANY tires at 20K miles short of a bad hole or some such - you suggested that this was the case.
 
Your relatively low mileage (I get about ~21 MPG in a 50/50 city/highway environment), so depending on your environment, your mileage could be reasonable, or not - this is not a light vehicle we drive and yours is heavier (by virtue of the AWD and perhaps more if you carry things in it and keep your tank full, for example) coupled to hard/erratic shift sounds to me like you may not be as gentle on the pedal as you could be.

Your 'Service Now' started when you replaced the pair of tires - AWD requires that all four be close to each other wear-wise - that's an issue with the style of AWD that many vehicles use today.  You can't just change one tire, two or three unless they are all almost new, but you get hit for 4 at a time when you get a non-repairable flat or wear out some, but not all of them.  However OEM tires don't come with road hazard warranties and even if they did, you'd get replacements only for the defective tires and not for the others.

Your transmission?  Mine doesn't shift hard or erratically - period.  You mentioned having to 'auto-stick' the vehicle (actually you were 'slap-shifting' or 'stick shifting' because you were not letting it 'auto-shift') and realise that it learns nothing when you manually shift the transmission.  And  that the algorithms they shoot for are 'best mileage' which has them try to keep the engine RPMs in the 1-2K rpm range and the shifts quick.  Again, could you have be being tough on the vehicle?  Or perhaps your expectations are unreasonable?

The radio:

Bad news:  The issue with your radio is likely to recur.  You will probably get the 'can't unlock maps' issue again at some point since the radio they stuck in when you had it the first time was one that had the problem, was returned to FCA and simply reloaded with maps and firmware and shipped back out without addressing the underlying issue that caused the failure.

Be happy they included a year of SiriusXM radio (you get FIVE years of traffic for the nav in the US, by the way).  My brother's $60K Lincoln came with 90 days of service.

Mapping?  I am not aware of ANY of the auto manufacturers that include map updates for any amount of time for their in-dash navigators.
 

I'm not sure why you needed to replace ANY tires at 20K miles short of a bad hole or some such - you suggested that this was the case.
 
Your relatively low mileage (I get about ~21 MPG in a 50/50 city/highway environment), so depending on your environment, your mileage could be reasonable, or not - this is not a light vehicle we drive and yours is heavier (by virtue of the AWD and perhaps more if you carry things in it and keep your tank full, for example) coupled to hard/erratic shift sounds to me like you may not be as gentle on the pedal as you could be.

Your 'Service Now' started when you replaced the pair of tires - AWD requires that all four be close to each other wear-wise - that's an issue with the style of AWD that many vehicles use today.  You can't just change one tire, two or three unless they are all almost new, but you get hit for 4 at a time when you get a non-repairable flat or wear out some, but not all of them.  However OEM tires don't come with road hazard warranties and even if they did, you'd get replacements only for the defective tires and not for the others.

Your transmission?  Mine doesn't shift hard or erratically - period.  You mentioned having to 'auto-stick' the vehicle (actually you were 'slap-shifting' or 'stick shifting' because you were not letting it 'auto-shift') and realise that it learns nothing when you manually shift the transmission.  And  that the algorithms they shoot for are 'best mileage' which has them try to keep the engine RPMs in the 1-2K rpm range and the shifts quick.  Again, could you have be being tough on the vehicle?  Or perhaps your expectations are unreasonable?

The radio:

Bad news:  The issue with your radio is likely to recur.  You will probably get the 'can't unlock maps' issue again at some point since the radio they stuck in when you had it the first time was one that had the problem, was returned to FCA and simply reloaded with maps and firmware and shipped back out without addressing the underlying issue that caused the failure.

Be happy they included a year of SiriusXM radio (you get FIVE years of traffic for the nav in the US, by the way).  My brother's $60K Lincoln came with 90 days of service.

Mapping?  I am not aware of ANY of the auto manufacturers that include map updates for any amount of time for their in-dash navigators.
 

Just curious is all, if someone were to have the issue with DVD player alignment, could they just simply copy the data from the disc on a desktop computer to a USB stick and then perform the map update?

I'm not sure why you needed to replace ANY tires at 20K miles short of a bad hole or some such - you suggested that this was the case.
 
Your relatively low mileage (I get about ~21 MPG in a 50/50 city/highway environment), so depending on your environment, your mileage could be reasonable, or not - this is not a light vehicle we drive and yours is heavier (by virtue of the AWD and perhaps more if you carry things in it and keep your tank full, for example) coupled to hard/erratic shift sounds to me like you may not be as gentle on the pedal as you could be.

Your 'Service Now' started when you replaced the pair of tires - AWD requires that all four be close to each other wear-wise - that's an issue with the style of AWD that many vehicles use today.  You can't just change one tire, two or three unless they are all almost new, but you get hit for 4 at a time when you get a non-repairable flat or wear out some, but not all of them.  However OEM tires don't come with road hazard warranties and even if they did, you'd get replacements only for the defective tires and not for the others.

Your transmission?  Mine doesn't shift hard or erratically - period.  You mentioned having to 'auto-stick' the vehicle (actually you were 'slap-shifting' or 'stick shifting' because you were not letting it 'auto-shift') and realise that it learns nothing when you manually shift the transmission.  And  that the algorithms they shoot for are 'best mileage' which has them try to keep the engine RPMs in the 1-2K rpm range and the shifts quick.  Again, could you have be being tough on the vehicle?  Or perhaps your expectations are unreasonable?

The radio:

Bad news:  The issue with your radio is likely to recur.  You will probably get the 'can't unlock maps' issue again at some point since the radio they stuck in when you had it the first time was one that had the problem, was returned to FCA and simply reloaded with maps and firmware and shipped back out without addressing the underlying issue that caused the failure.

Be happy they included a year of SiriusXM radio (you get FIVE years of traffic for the nav in the US, by the way).  My brother's $60K Lincoln came with 90 days of service.

Mapping?  I am not aware of ANY of the auto manufacturers that include map updates for any amount of time for their in-dash navigators.
 

I went back and had a look at your previous post - the person you spoke with at uConnect was wrong, and the information was less than accurate, because they get all their information from scripts.  Unless management gives them information to the contrary yours will be one of the very few with problems, or they'll blame an update or some other such nonsense.

If your replacement radio is acting up start by doing a full reset - pull one of the battery leads and let the vehicle sit without power for a half hour or so and then reconnect the battery.  If that doesn't resolve the issue then have the dealer swap the radio out again.

Not shutting off has never been an issue for these radios as far as I know. Ever. So that implies that the revision of the firmware is not a likely culprit. I suppose that something might have glitched some code somewhere in the vehicle - it might not even be in the radio, however. In any case reloading the radio firmware - even the same version - won't hurt and might solve the problem.

But when you say 'won't shut off', do you mean that the radio stays on overnight? Does it shut off with the battery rundown protection? Is it the radio? Or is it that everything in the accessory power system (lights on the start button stay lit)?

The RB5/RB2 are great infotainment systems even if they do have some weaknesses, including the fact that MP3 music sources won't display embedded album art unless they are included in the Gracenotes database installed on the unit and THAT hasn't been updated since 2011.  It also have some trouble with the latest versions of iPhones (I use Android and previously WIndows phones and Blackberries, all of which seem to work perfectly, including support for SMS).

On the plus side the RB5 is one of the very, very few consumer vehicle navigation systems that does 'dead reckoning' navigation, which means that it doesn't require a satellite signal to maintain your location on the map, which works great in tunnels, garages and most importantly in 'GPS Canyons' of the downtown cores of most major cities where the satellite signals can't be directly received and bounce off buildings proving erroneous location reports and 'lost signal' messages.

The only real change in the user interface of the RB5 from the first and second, to the third version is that the icons have changed.  As well, there is different firmware for each of the versions of the radio, so if you plan to self-update you'd need to be able to source the correct files from the uconnect web site - so knowing the VIN of the source vehicle becomes more than useful, since putting the wrong firmware into a radio can 'brick' it.

Where the real differences are have to do with the capabilities of (and an issue with) the product. 

The first version of the radio in it's original firmware releases does not require a security code meaning that you wouldn't need to solicit an unlock code to get it running - not deadly I any case, since it can be generated by the dealer.  It would be based on a combination of the serial number of the radio and the VIN of the vehicle into which it is going.  In any case the latest versions of the firmware, even those or the oldest devices DO implement an unlock code, so ultimately you'd need one if yours gets (or has gotten) updated.

More important, in my opinion is that the older nav units don't do 'XM traffic' which in my opinion and because I live in Montreal, which is 'Orange Cone Land' with something like 500 active road construction sites and major arterial reconstruction and configuration is important to me even if I DID sit in a traffic jam last night at 11PM because they shut down an expressway for service and the closure never showed up on the unit. On the other hand traffic is a subscription service, so you'd need to pay for it.  It does, however provide coverage in a lot more places than the traditional FM SCA service that stand-alone Garmin navigators do.  Traffic services are officially not available outside of the US, though the data for Canada is transmitted by XM (go figure),  

On the other hand, the older nav radios seem to be a lot less subject to the dreaded 'can't unlock maps' problem that plagues some of the devices.  That's good, I suppose, since I've never put together a recovery package for those units and to date no one's actually asked.

There are lots of potential pitfalls to buying an RB5 upgrade, however.  The vendors out there often have no idea what they are selling and in one case a member contacted me to discuss his woes - he bought THREE different radios, each of which supposedly was a navigation radio and they ALL turned out to be basic RE2 base 8.4 radios (no navigator).  Unfortunately there are a myriad of part numbers out there and there's no magic decider ring, nor any sense to be made from the part numbers that would allow you to determine what the particular radio can do - they all have the same physical chassis and the same connectors so there are no external visual clues.

I happen to have my spare radio (one of the latest models) available for sale if that was a direction you might want to go in - it is listed in the classified section here.

Whatever you decide to do I wish you luck.

If you want to know if the vehicle has DRLs from the factory look up the vehicle build sheet.

Go to the following web site, then choose 'equipment listing' and enter your VIN.

http://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/index.html