tstone

Easy-- pop the shield off the top of the engine. Remove 2 screws that hold down each coil and lift off. Use 5/8" spark plug socket with a long extension and remove. Make sure the gap is right and send the new ones down in there. Tighten by hand and torque to spec. Stock plugs are a cheap copper variety, 1970's technology. Not sure if this was done as a cost cutting measure or what. I've always had the best luck by using OE plugs if everything on the engine is OE.

I'm still concerned that the brake booster, master cylinder and proprtioning block (underhood components) are mis-matched to the calipers, pads & rotors in your setup. Reason I say that is back in the day I had an old Mustang and people were converting '83-86 Foxbody Mustang discs & drums over to the larger '87-93 parts. Doing that, they had to change the vacuum booster, master cylinder and proportioning block to get the system to work properly. IIRC because of the different position of the underhood components, the brake lines also had to be replaced. Whatever the case it was too much work for me to consider. If you have mismatched parts you're going to have wearing problems and a possible safety issue. I'm not trying to crap on this thread but this is the #1 safety system on your entire vehicle. If we could have a parts guru verify that the '09-12 underhood braking components are indeed the same as the '13+ then this would be an upgrade everyone should consider.

The cold engine noise with the 2.4 is because the lifters are solid tappets. Perfectly normal. When the engine warms up the noise should go away. By today's standards this engine is crude and gruff, but after several years I am still having trouble digging up any info regarding true problems with it.

Let me get this straight, it's the fault of American car companies that you washed your spare key?
Apparently people in California still beat everyone at whining and complaining. :violin:

Let me get this straight, it's the fault of American car companies that you washed your spare key?
Apparently people in California still beat everyone at whining and complaining. :violin:

I got an '11 Express (with flexible seating & premium groups) primarily due to cost-- not wanting a car note, and getting an extra 1-2 mpg saves $ over the long term. I like to run my cars into the ground, ideally 200k miles. And over the lifetime of the vehicle an extra 1 mpg translates into about $1,500 saved.
Second was reliability. The 3.6L is brand new and unproven, and the 62TE has documented problems. Online I have found no problems documented with the 2.4L nor the 40TES. The engine has been around for 6 years and the transmission has been around in some form and updated/perfected over the past 20+ years. Perhaps it's ancient, unrefined, overstressed, etc- but it should be a solid powertrain. Just run full synthetic 5W20, Mopar brand ATF+4, Mopar brand coolant, and don't be afraid to rev it up or use the autostick. It won't win races but I think it runs adequately for commute purposes and on the highway at 75 mph. However if you're loaded with 6-7 people it's a bit underpowered on the highway.

Let me get this straight, it's the fault of American car companies that you washed your spare key?
Apparently people in California still beat everyone at whining and complaining. :violin: