2late4u

take some time and read thru the forum for a lot of GREAT and some bad advise,,take care

don't know how to share the Artical but here it is at this link https://moparinsiders.com/the-chinese-built-2024-dodge-journey-thrives-in-mexico/

well my grandson has a fwd Altima and I put it in for a 4 wheel alignment at the local garage as it would slowly drift to the right when going down the center crown of the road,well the mechanic called me and said it was the right side CV axle going bad as he said and we test drove it and while going straight he said to let go of the wheel and hit the gas and when I did it pulled real quick to the right, well I said okay to the replacement But it didn't fix that issue so he he reinstalled the OEM axle back and didn't charge me for any of that work(wow) and he did say it was out of alignment a bit, so he fixed that and he thinks it is the right engine mount going bad?? (((haven't had a good chance to check it out as he needed the car back right away to go to work in)))the mechanic checked the brakes and wheel bearing hub and said that wasn't the cause but that he doesn't do eng mounts and and on the Altima it was a real pain to change.... So what do you all think it could be I guess it could be the right side engine mount as he said..... other than hitting the gas real hard while letting go of the steering wheel the car drives fine no vibrations,no real noticeable symptoms, was doing this before I had the new plugs installed as well,,, 2018 4 cyl with around 120k on it, thanks in advance

you probably have a broken wire in or near the left upper rubber boot on your hatchback. common problem on older journeys due to thin wires check out YouTube for more info or look Thur the forums section under the Electrical, Battery & Charging tab good luck and report back on what you find to be your problem....also checking at the light itself IF you are getting any juice with a meter

thanks for the response on your problem sorry you didn't get it fixed properly,just wondering why doesn't the new aftermarket remote open your doors, as I assume it should be able to, my son had an aftermarket put on his ford truck k yrs ago and it operates everything for him he can actually remote start his truck almost 2 blocks away at his work place, and also shows an led on it to show the truck has started up as well

yes I got the one without the red stripes, (all black) read the reviews and when you try to attach it you do have to get in the back seat to make it a lot easier and with some tugs and pulls it fits real tight and the only place you can tell its not OEM is right where the handle is to release the arm rest but it looks good I have had it on since last June and it still looks great

I would just have replaced the vinyl/leather with a short length of carpet or headliner in the insert

yes I do crack both sides windows a bit with rain guards on each side and I try to use a reflective sun shield in the windshield,,, as my 2001 dodge truck top dash the plastic started cracking into pieces real bad, a common trait for them, I bought one of the dash coverall from the internet and it fit just perfect, cost was around $200

2014 here parked outside in Al sun from day1.so far mine is staying here great condition I have always kept leather conditioner on the seats and door panels as well, only problem I have had was with the padded arm rest in the center it cracked right about where I always kept my elbow I ended up ordering a vinyl cover off amazon and didn't really think it would look to good but it had great reviews and I swear it almost looks like OEM cover and it just stretches over it as well for the install took less than 5 minutes for the install

seems like it would have been easier just to remove it so you could have got it done..Also I know it would cost extra but at 108 K miles in the rust belt area might have been a great time to replace the wheel bearing hubs as a precaution and for around $100 think i would have done that as well

seems like it would have been easier just to remove it so you could have got it done..

to be honest with most of the electronics these days OEM is the best way to go,yrs ago my dad was having a problem with his alt on his caravan and was on a trip and the mech used a carquest replacement alt and before hew got half way home it went out again and the next mech replaced thur carquest replacement under warranty so all he was out was the labor and by the time he got home it was going bad again, he had it towed to the dodge dealership and they fixed it with an OEM alt and no more problems as long as he owned it

well I am sure this would cause you the problems you have been talking about, just wondering did you buy the journey new?or did you buy it after the accident it was in?

a lot of people have said the aftermarket actuators don't last a long time so its best to go with OEM and if you have to install a new one some need to be recalibrated if not installed in the correct position...just a heads up

also you could try to disconnect and then reconnect the wire connector or tap on the actual actuator to unfree it if it's just stuck

as added protection on my temp controls on both sides I don't leave them turned all the way to hot or cold, as sometimes they seem to stick in that position, at least that has happened to my journey, so it seems to help doing this

there are at least 3-4 blend door actuator on the passenger side and one of them controls that operation just google it on you tube easy to do and yes the actuator has went bad..here is a video on the one you are having a problem with

FIRST you need to watch some you tube videos on how to remove 2017 dodge journey ball joint replacement, then go from there it wont be as easy as you might think but can be done IF you have the ability to do repair work and have the correct tools here is one video from there there are a few more and I would strongly watch as many as there are...REMEMBER a lot of these are from shade tree mechanics and some might not show the best way or correct way don't forget your torque wrenches and safety gear,,,,good luck

If you are having a overheating problem DO NOT mess around with it very long you don't want to accidentally overheat and ruin your engine,,,,not sure which fuse it is, but had a problem yrs ago with my daughters caravan and it was the connector in the wiring it looked good on the outside but was making an intermittent connection at times and was melting the inside of the connectors due to the loose connection...ARE you checking at the rad fan if it is rec power with a meter?and as far as the inside blower fan speed yes it could be the switch (not sure on the type you have on an 09) good luck and please report back on what you find out to be your solutions to these problems for others to learn from

115 km to 135 km is only around 71 to 83 mph not a very high speed that would require a specially balance of course such a high dollar balance would be better a regular spin balance it should be fine, I usually run between 75 -85 when on trips and have no vibration,,,,I believe he needs to find a better shop to check the unibody damage even so slight as he called it, might even be a slightly bent rim as well something is wrong after shooting the parts cannon off as he has,,as I assume it wasn't doing this before the accident?

tie rods can give a lot of death wobble vibrations in jeeps due to tie rod play, which it doesn't have to be very bad to cause the vibration

No mention of condition on the tie rods,ball joints, how is the 4 wheel alignment been done recently,might have some frame/underbody damage out of square? The front struts could be part of the problem ,so many things it could be that cant be answered over the internet,,you need to find a qualified dealership or body shop,as you have certainly unloaded the parts cannon without any success...SO how long have you owned this journey and how many miles are on it ,I have a 2014 with 161k and it rides like a dream...good luck

so much has been written about this go to the forums sub section and read up on it, even if you add it yourself it still has to be added to the sales code for it to work in your journey that is if you are using the OEM brand aftermarket would be different I would assume

you wont like my suggestion but takinging to the dealership would be the most expensive but they would probably know how to diagnose the problem and might be cheaper in the long run, had a different problem with my daughters patriot every shop ( 3 ) was saying and pointing to it being the rear axle trans case going bad and it ended up taking it to the dodge dealership and it ended up being a rear wheel bearing for a total cost of $450 compared to a $2500 rear axle repair...good luck