JustDodge
-
Posts
75 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by JustDodge
-
Yeah I just used the engine oil dipstick to measure it at cold. It should level just barely below the curve on dipstick. My level was where it should be hot, at cold. So definitely too much. Hopefully after I drain it, it’s not slipping because I can’t get a new transmission right now im also at 167k. Last year in august I just got transmission replaced. No issues prior until me “topping it off”. I had just watched multiple videos including this one. So that’s how I was at the conclusion of it being too much atf
-
I just got it replaced not even a year ago, it was under the warranty I got when I bought the car but I no longer have the warranty. My mind just went to it being more of a quick fix thing since is has only been happening after I added fluid.
-
It’s me again… currently facing transmission slippage. Noticed this on the highway when around 75mph it’ll slip trying engaging into 6 gear then it’ll catch. Started about a week ago after I added transmission fluid. With that happening, I siphoned out some atf, still slipping. I got a code for p0729 (incorrect gear 6 ratio). I googled/YouTubed how to check the fluid, based off what I seen, it was low so thought maybe it actually needed more… dumb mistake. Now I’m experiencing slippage in 3rd (P0733). I drained all the fluid. I pulled about 3Qts out. No difference. Is it that I added too much or didn’t add enough?
-
I’ve been having the issue for a minute and the mechanics I’ve been trying to get a hold of are on BS! The issue is coming from my Front Left tire and it’s knocking noise, as if the wheel is wobbling side to side/ back and forth. ↔️ It’s at the point my whole steering wheel and front end is shaking as if the wheels is preparing to fall off. This happens pretty much the whole time I’m driving over 5 mph. It’ll slow down to nothing when I decelerate to a stop. I’m pretty aware of having to take the tire off to inspect the components but what are some things in regards to the wheel that can cause this to happen that may need to be looked at specifically if anything? I have a video of it happening in real time linked below. https://youtube.com/shorts/oyotA6qyabQ?feature=share
-
4 days later. I only went back over their work. Removing intake and putting it back together how I know it goes, it wasn’t anything out of place but I haven’t been having the issue since. May have been a loose wire. I still have those codes though.
-
Gonna pop back in, I actually pulled two codes. Following me being told there were none, one being C121C-00 and the second being U0401-00.
-
Will do, it was a coincidence for sure. I did check the camshaft position sensors those seemed fine. Pushed all the harnesses and everything I thought of in just to make sure.
-
The work they did was suspension work. It’s at 102k miles. I knew the battery wasn’t an issue because you’d notice signs of that immediately with the typical ticking from a no start or certain accessory not working properly. The voltage on it is also 14.3 alt is good to, so it’s no bad. How the battery was a possible problem?? I’m not sure. A dodge dealership was on my list but I wanted the people who worked on it to actually look and fix whatever the my possibly could’ve done, also due to warranty would’ve covered it. Then I came here to see if anyone else had this issue specifically. Haven’t seen that so far. Jut will update.
-
IMG_4225.MOVOkay, todays vehicle is not my own but my moms 2017 Journey 3.6. Recently took it to a shop Tuesday of last week. We got it back last Friday. Maybe a day or two after, we’ve experienced an issue at start where it’ll kinda ‘hum’ to life for about 5-7 seconds. Rough up/down idling. ETC flashing w TC and TC Off light constant. It’s like it’s fighting to stay on (audibly too). Not sure if it goes into limp mode or not but she was at work and describes she couldn’t even accelerate in a parking lot… I drove it well attempted to myself. It’s like in drive if I let my foot off the brake and not press gas it’s kinda torque-ey like I’m brake boosting it??? We do stay in Michigan but still haven’t had this issue on even colder days but it’s doesn’t just happen cold but after it sat a while. Not start back to back. We’ve experienced this twice in the past 4 days and we’ve always cut the car off and back on again and it’ll start like nothing just happened. I took it back to the shop that worked on it. Was told the Throttle body may need replacement but they inspected and couldn’t find any issues that could cause it. The engine light wasn’t on or throwing any codes. He did say the battery may be bad but outside this… never any issues or signs. Basically couldn’t work on it or tell insurance anything if it’s not a obvious issue. So I’m at a lost? I seen a few topics on this but never really had all these issues exactly. Any help would be nice! I leave a video to what happens on the dash.
-
Will do, I’ll report back and update on what happens from there.
-
Yeah I went back through the thread. Shortly after that thread was made, I did take it to the shop but was told it was looking to be an actuator and they was charging a $100 just to look at it. Knowing how much it cost to replace the actuator, it wasn’t worth the $100 especially if I could do it myself. But come to find out, the actuator wasn’t the whole issue. I did think of a coolant flush as well since my driver heat yet is hot, just not the hottest. Looks like that’s next! I’ll go YouTube how that’s done.
-
I brought this issue up sometime ago, still the same issue where there’s no heat on the passenger side. I stay in Michigan where we’re dealing w snow. I checked the actuator again, it didn’t move when I changed the passenger temp which was a giveaway to what was happening. I bought another actuator, replaced the old one… still had the same issue. I checked the actuator again, to notice that it didn’t move in increments with the temp. If I put the temp at 72° or above it would completely open and anything below that it would just completely close. I have the actuator off now and move the actual flap with my hand to see if theres an issue outside the actuator and still no heat at all. The also has an effect on my underfloor heat vents, hot heat blows through those either. I make sure my coolant is topped. What could it possibly be?
-
Looks like I’ll have to get a more intuitive reader. Mine is just a basic engine code scanner. My blank read started at the RR wheel and that same blank reading has rotated to my FL wheel. About 3 months ago, surprisingly all the reading actually showed for the first time owning it. But it was a shortly lived moment. That kinda would go to say it’s either antennas or the module, huh? Also looking at a different post I seen about the issue I seen you replied on.
-
Has it ever dropped out and came back to show another tire with a missing reading or is it the same tire going in and out?
-
The best I can say is try to manually relearn yours. If not, maybe the replace your tpms module itself because if it’s the same wheel after being replaced. The module may have some type of fault for it to not constantly and accurately read.
-
I’ve been googling and searching. In my case, I’ve have the “ ——“ rotate to different tires. I guess is called “floating” from what I’ve seen one person say. I think I’m gonna have to manually relearn the system to reset/calibrate it. Because after seeing it “float” to different wheels, I think the sensors work but the computer itself isn’t registering all 4. Only 3 and those 3 readings will swap through tires occasionally. It was my front right wheel originally w no reading. Now it has a reading and switched to not showing my front driver wheel. I’ll still do further inspection to get as close of a solution possible
-
On my 12 Journey Crew my “Service Tire System” has been on for quite a while. When I see my tire pressures, it shows blank for one of the wheels. Over the last year it has changed position to another tire reading as blank or “——“ still only one wheel not showing a reading but it’s no longer the same wheel, as I have filled my tires before after seeing the position switch. I realized it’s not just the sensor failing but one of the tires not having a reading and the car switching the no reading to different tires as putting air in my tires, the increase in pressure didn’t correspond to the tire I actually inflated. What could possibly be the issue? I thought of replacing the sensor but if it’s constantly switching between tires that eliminates knowledge of what tire is faulty. Not a big issue but it is something I get tired of seeing.
-
Yeah, just asking. But it must be something outside the thermostat because even before replacing it, I still had the same issue. That’s what made me replace it because I have two journeys with the other actually needing it due to over cooling the engine. So it was two in one thing but that obviously didn’t solve the issues I had with the other. I haven’t really drove it much since I last bled the system, so can’t give much of an update but I go back to regular commute tomorrow. I’ll update then
-
Yep, everything on hi and full blast
-
But if it’s is a thermostat issue wouldn’t the car show a code for the car over heating? Not saying it isn’t but I’ve seems journeys show code for similar issues. I also did bleed the system again hot this time. Lots of air did leave, like I felt the eng. output hose literally bubbling from air in it.
-
I have the 3.6 at around 157k miles. I bled the system while running through the bleeder valve until bubbles were no longer visible.
-
There’s a few issues going on with my 11 Journey Crew currently. 1. The car has an overheating issue, the engine temperature gauge likes to go from 1/2 to the line below 3/4 very often within 5 seconds. The fan will cut on (obviously because it’s past operating temps) but it constantly does this every 10-15 minutes of driving. The fan will stay on for a few seconds then will shut off because the car went back to normal. I replaced the thermostat, still occurs. 2. I have a cabin heating issue, there’s no heat on passenger side or under the rear floor. Heat only comes through the two drivers vents and drivers defrost. The coolant isn’t low and the actuator seems to work fine when I change passenger temp. To also add, when I start the car you can noticeably hear fluid going through the system, you hear it move faster as gas is pressed if that has anything to do w anything. I have two Journeys and I’ve never experienced that so I’m curious. Any knowledge or help is taken.
-
Yeah, I have that off. It’s just the possibility of me of not knowing what comes off and in what order.
-
Does anyone know how to remove the radiator support frame from 12 Journey? I can’t find any videos or information at all as to how.
-
Would a autozone or something if the sort have one?
