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Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound like I was questioning you...Further from the truth, I appreciate all feedback I get. Although not a mechanical beginner, I'm also not a mechanical expert either and this issue is new to me. This Journey has been a journey through my wallet and bank account and to fathom I may have to drop some more serious coin on repairing valve seals makes me regret the day I bought this thing. So far, I've replaced the oil cooler, thermostat, cam shaft pos. sensor (needs to be replaced again, was replaced only two years ago), timing chain cover, serp belt and tensioner, ball joints and soon struts. I can only imagine valve seals will be a costly repair. If anyone can point me to the location of the pcv valve on a fwd 3.6L, I'd appreciate it. Cheers!

Watched the video and noticed he said that it will burn blue for about 5 minutes. For me, it's basically 5-10 seconds then transitions to white smoke then followed by clear exhaust. I would rather start with a PCV valve as I had my spark plugs replaced by the dealership about a year ago and noticed from the invoice that there is no mention of the PCV valve being replaced at the same time. If it is easy enough to do on my own, I would prefer that. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll have the dealership troubleshoot the valve seals as I know this is not something I can do on my own. When I start it, I do sometimes (about once a week) try to take it on the highway or at least do some city driving.

I have not...Easy for a novice dyi’er to do?

Hi...So since quarantine, my car has been sitting for longer periods of time than normal. I do however make a point of starting it every 3-4 days to get the fluids moving. One afternoon, while outside, I remote started it and notice a small plume of blue smoke come out of the exhaust. Thinking it may have just been a fluke, I shut it off and let it cool down. I re-started it about four hours later with the exact same result. I know blue smoke usually means burning oil, but I'm not sure what could be causing it. My car has always had unusually slow acceleration (unless you punch it, which then, gitty up!). It's a 3.6L 2014 Ltd with only 148K km's. The engine isn't throwing any codes. I recently, about five months ago had the timing cover replaced due to a small oil leak. It fixed the leak, but I'm not sure if perhaps it caused this?

So....The oil leak was coming from the timing chain cover...Looks like another couple of grand sunk into this money pit!

Yup, which is why I’ve only used Dodge services for oil changes since I had it fixed the first time. It cost me over a grand to fix so I didn’t want to risk it happening again. But if it is the oil cooler again, I’m going to be pretty pi**ed! This car alone in the past year and a half has cost me a pretty penny to keep it on the road.

Unfortunately, the oil cooler and spark plugs were replaced Feb 6th last year, and I’m definitely over the 12k mark

The express lube is actually part of the Dodge dealership. You have two options, either book the oil change as a Service appointment or go through the express bay if you are only getting an oil change. Therefore, a Dodge approved service. As for the oil cooler, it was replaced last year at a Dodge dealership using an OEM part. Thanks for the advice...When the temperature gets warmer, I’ll check it out under the hood. Currently -20 degrees Celsius.

Hi...I took my car for an oil change this morning (to the dealership). While the car was on the hoist, they checked the underside and noticed oil leakage but couldn't determine where it was coming from. It was dripping onto the CV axle from somewhere above (Passenger side). There is never a stain on the driveway, so it's a slow enough leak and is (I'm assuming) burning off while I drive. It's still concerning nonetheless, and since it was an express lube within the Dodge dealership, they do not investigate the problems and would need to book a service appt. I have already replaced the oil cooler, so I'm doubtful it's coming from there. Where else can it be leaking from? They mentioned that if they have issues locating the leak, they'd need to wash the engine and then check in intervals (depending on how small the leak is). This car never ceases to amaze me $$$$ Year - 2014 Engine - 3.6L Drivetrain - FWD Model - Limited

It is super annoying, and I can feel it through the pedal. If it was just the creak noise, I could probably live with it...I did take a look at it from under the dash but can’t quite pinpoint where it is coming from. i understand what you’re saying about spraying anything down there, honestly didn’t think about the safety issues. Guess it’s off to the dealership. thanks!

Hi...Not sure if there is a spring or something that needs to be WD40’d or if it’s something I should bring me car in to get fixed. Here’s a video with the sound it makes. Also heard is a loud click noise at the shifter when pressing the brake pedal. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Txvc_q-TyCcS4heyuzkPW2FiaAaisBCz/view?usp=drivesdk

Thanks....Looks like I'll be driving it until the buttons stop working. Did you buy the part from a dealer and install yourself, or did you have the dealer do it all?

Hi....Not sure where to put this post, so I'll leave it here. I have weird scraping type noise only heard inside the cabin of the car and when turning the steering wheel left and right. The best way for me to describe it would be to say that it sounds like the components behind the steering wheel is rusted and needs lubrication. I will try to get a sound clip of it. I thought maybe the clock spring, but all the steering buttons and horn works. The noise is definitely coming from behind the steering wheel/column. Any ideas?

Sounds like what I've been going through: Still happens...I've decided to live with it for now as anywhere I take it want to blame the wheels for the shimmy and highway vehicle body vibration even though I've had three different types of tires and brands...As well as new rims. The first place I took it to balanced the wheels and tires to perfect 0's (static balancing). Still vibrated...New tires + new rims road force balanced, still vibration. It all starts when the car shifts into 4th or 5th gear and ramps up the faster I go with no leveling off. I'm thinking something with transmission, motor mounts or wheel hubs. Unfortunately, they won't look at it anymore as they said that they've done all they could and don't want to keep throwing parts at it. Anywhere else I take it wants to charge me to re-balance and seem to get stuck on it being a wheel/balance issue. As for the harsh shifts in 2nd and 3rd gears, been told this is normal.

Yeah, I have an uneasy feeling too but I hope I'm wrong as well! A little backstory...Bought it used in September of last year and it had 112,000 km's (roughly 70,000 miles). The day after I bought it, it sprung a transmission fluid leak under the pan. Brought it back and they replaced the pan and drained the fluid. In February, sprung a huge oil leak which ended up being the oil cooler which apparently is a common issue. Had that replaced along with the spark plugs. Basically, it's been one thing after another but I'm trying to hold on to hope that this isn't anything too major (I'm still paying for the next four years!). Currently, the car has 128,000 km's (roughly 79,500 miles). This issue started to present itself around Christmas but it was pretty minor and didn't really think much of it. But lately, it's fairly noticeable. The other issue is the harsh clunk it makes shifting between 2nd and 3rd (both upshifting and downshifting), almost feels like I'm getting hit from behind. Was told from two different dealearships that this was noticeable pentastar behaviour

Okay...I'll try to explain this the best I can. As a note, I have the 3.6L V6 FWD. Lately I've noticed something strange with the way my engine's been behaving. When I am accelerating past 3rd or 4th gear, the transmission shifts into the next gear and then it just bogs down. It basically feels like the car is struggling to keep up with the acceleration, you can also feel the car vibrating (it's not a horrible vibration, but it is noticeable). The funny thing is, it seems to only happen in the one particular gear...Whether it's 4th or 5th, I'm not too sure. It feels similar to when you're driving a manual transmission, and you shift to the next gear too quickly and the car does the little shake thing as the RPM's try to catch up. The engine behaves normally upon acceleration from a stop. I have had the spark plugs replaced, air filter replaced, power steering fluid replaced, transmission fluid replaced (about 6mths ago), camshaft position sensor replaced and finally, the oil cooler replaced. The engine isn't throwing any codes, and if use the +/- manual function, the engine runs fine. So I'm wondering if it's perhaps a sensor (Throttle position?) or anything else that might be causing it?

Thanks larryl.

Hi...I'm having a similar issue but it has nothing to do with the battery as it is sufficiently charged. When I start the car with the fob, the engine cranks and it starts...5-10 seconds later, it shuts off and on the dash it says that the remote start has been disabled. The only thing that I can think of, is that I have a CEL on...It's code P0128 which points me to a thermostat/coolant issue but wouldn't think this would interfere with the remote start.

Hi...I have this annoying squeal when I start my car and the engine is cold. It lasts only for a few minutes (when the engine is revving high to warm up, and when I press on the gas). After that, it goes away and never happens when the engine is warm. I'm assuming belt or tensioner? It's a 2014 DJ Ltd. with about 74,500 miles. Seems a little early to need a new belt IMO, but perhaps this is a common issue?

What's another sound at startup...lol. But seriously, thanks for the info 2late4u...Anything I should keep in mind when installing the new fan?

1986 Ford Escort GT - Manual 1988 Honda Civic (I believe it was the EX) - Auto 1990 Mazda MX6 - Manual 2004 Nissan Sentra SE - Manual 2008 Ford Focus - Auto 2013 Nissan Versa - Auto 2014 Dodge Journey Ltd. - Auto

Thanks jkeaton! Looks like I'll be replacing the front one. Hope the part itself is not too $$$ as it appears to be a fairly straightforward DIY project (famous last words! lol)

Hi...Does anyone know if the 2014 Journey Ltd. comes with a separate blower fan for the rear? I have the 8.4 UConnect with tri-zone climate control. I get a squealing sound from behind the glove box whenever I have the fan on...Doesn't matter if it is just the front, or just the rear on, the sound comes from the same place. I just assumed that there'd be a separate one for the rear.

So...Still no luck with this vibration and it is driving me crazy!!! Here is what I have done since then (as I am really trying to rule out the tires/rims before I explore further: 1) Had those tires taken off the rim and then re-set and road force balanced. No change. They re-road force balanced and still no change. The shop is at a loss (and so am I). It is a tire specialty shop that I am using and have used them with great results in the past (although not with my DJ). They are at a loss and quite frankly, so am I. Aside from possible frame damage which has yet to be explored, they mentioned that it could possibly be a broken motor mount. He is no mechanic but is going off of his personal experience. My engine does move around quite a bit when starting, and I do get the odd jolts when the transmission is shifting gears (mostly between 2nd and 3rd). 2) As a last ditch attempt, the shop swapped out the General Arctic 12's that I had on it (they were brand new winters), and replaced them with Continental Contact Si Winter tires (brand new as well). Exact same issues I'm having. A couple extra observations: 1) The vibration felt is mostly in the floor/seats, and although felt while accelerating over 60, you really start to notice it over 65. And if I take my foot off the gas and coast (no brakes applied), it is really bad...Almost feels like the car is going to fall apart. When I accelerate again, the vibration persists, but it's definitely not as bad. 2) My car is FWD, and is the V6. Is the rear suspension on the FWD a shock and strut assembly? If it there is a strut, I think the rear passenger side might be on the way out. I keep hearing knocking sounds when going over bumps (kind of like something is inside my car making that sound), but there is nothing there that I could see. Also, what other components in the drivetrain are rotary? ie : U-Joints, CV Joints...I will be taking it in next week to have my suspension looked over, but would also like to point out a few things that I'd want them to look at too as well. Thanks!

After reading these numbers, my '14 DJ may have a fuel consumption issue...Hwy/City driving combined I get roughly 20 mpg's. When I do all highway, I get between 22-23 mpg's. I am a spirited driver who doesn't carry much cargo. I've cleaned the MAP and am considering changing out my spark plugs.