Dadof5

I bought my 2017 new in March 2018. At the time, 2018 was supposed to be the last year, with a new version coming out as a 2019. 

That never happened. They kept the Journey around for 2019 and 2020 and now it's gone, but there is no replacement in sight. Doesn't look like there will be one either.

One has to wonder about the future of Dodge. All they have left is the Challenger/Charger (both over a decade old) and the Durango (also an old timer?).

Thanks. I did find that video (apparently the only one on the web). There have been a lot of parts removed like the intake, so it looks more accessible. The driver side is easier and I can almost see the connector, but can't get my hand in. The passenger side is even more congested.

I was putting the summer wheels back on yesterday and tried cleaning the sensor, but it didn't work.

The frustrating part is it first acted up in February and the 3 yr warranty ended in March. The warning light cleared on it's own so there was no point taking it in (pay $150 when no fault found).

Has anyone replaced the right front sensor themselves? If so, where is the connector under the hood and how do you get at it.

My 2017 with 30k km has codes C00033-02, C0034-62 and C0034-2F and the speed sensor is the most likely culprit.

Thanks

Let's face it, FCA products aren't the most reliable vehicles on the road.  But I am hugely disappointed in my Journey because it hasn't exploded into the giant disaster the internet said would happen.  Thinking it must be a fluke, I bought a Grand Caravan just for entertainment value.  It too has badly let me down, with nothing going wrong.

Seriously though, both my Dodges were at least $10k less than the nearest alternative.  If they are a bit less reliable than other brands, I can live with that.  $10k will buy a LOT of repairs.  And even the most reliable car on the road still needs some repairs.

On 4/3/2020 at 2:39 PM, Armando G said:

96 Ford with good original blades... hard to believe. 

Low mileage, always garaged, and the wipers aren't used much. They last almost forever in those conditions.  The set on my 87 Chev passed the safety inspection with flying colours last year.  I also have an old convertible but the wipers are never used because it's never seen rain LOL.

1 hour ago, NavalLacrosse said:

If the blades on your 2011 Ford are so great, purchase the same brand and put them on the Dodge.

$75 dollars is a bit steep for a full set of blades, but that kind of money can get you a good set of Rainex, or other name brand. (Note the the rear blade is only sold in one brand, and will be expensive.) 
If you're willing to accept frequent blade changes, 12.99 per blade on the front from walmart, and 15.99(?) for the rear. Change them yourself, and pocket the extra 20 dollars for the next time the blades fail.

 

(Edit: Realized you're from Ontario. $75 CAD sounds about right for blades)

Double edit: Probably a lost cause, but if your car is under the bumber to bumber still, you might be able to get the dealership to repair it for free.

LOL I wish I knew who makes the blades for Ford.

I didn't buy the cheapest and installed myself. Hopefully they last.  The rear wasn't that expensive ($15?) and looks exactly the same.

I thought of the warranty thing, but I've found the warranty useless so far and besides, the dealer is closed due to coronavirus.

My Journey is 2 years old to the day, and both wiper blades completely disintegrated within minutes.  My wife was driving in the rain at night, and the passenger wiper followed by the driver side had the rubber part contacting the glass separate from the main rubber part.  I looked at the rear and it was starting to go too (about 2").  $75 for new blades.

Two years!  Heck, I just sold a 1996 Ford and it still had the factory blades and they still wiped perfectly.  My 2011 Ford still has the factory blades too.

I have a 17 Journey and a 19 Grand Caravan, both with the 3.6.  On the Grand Caravan, the battery is right on top, super easy to access.  Unfortunately, everything under the hood is packaged differently so converting would be a huge challenge and not worth it.  But it is strange that FCA would have not used the Grand Caravan layout on the Journey as a starting point.

23 hours ago, 2late4u said:

well he must have been past the 3yr36k warranty and had the extended warranty due to the 100 deductible,,as if you are within the 3 yr /36 there is no ded...   i love how they give us all the info when asking a question...LOL

I said upfront it was new 18 months ago so it is well within the warranty.  Yeah there is no deductible, but they insist on changing the batteries first (probably close to $100 with labour) because batteries are a "maintenance item".  Even if I change them myself, they insist on doing it again.  They also charge $130 if "no fault found".  Like I said, I could press the buttons over and over and nothing, but once it did work, it would work on every press.

Update:

The dealer said before even looking at it, they will change the FOB batteries at my expense, even if I put brand new batteries in myself.  So it will cost me about $100 just to take it in.  Screw that.

So I tried doing a car battery reboot.  After that, the FOBs work fine and still do.  So there you go.

We bought our 2017 in March 2018.  Dealers had a ton of 2017s in stock.  The dealer we bought from had over 40 2017s in stock at the time.

Things are a lot different now.  Back in June (when we bought a 2019 Grand Caravan), dealers had between zero and 2 or 3 Journeys in stock.  While we got over $12k off on our Journey, dealers now aren't offering much off list.  Oh yeah, we got $17.5k off MSRP on our Grand Caravan.

I have a 2017 SXT I bought new in early 2018.  When it was 9 months old, the battery was stone dead after being parked 6 days.  The dealer blamed the dashcam, even though the outlet is switched.  After charging it for 1/2 a day so it could be tested, they said nothing was wrong with the battery.  They were nice and didn't charge me $140 for no fault found.  The very next morning, it was stone dead again.  Rather than waste another day and potentially pay $140 for nothing, I just bought a new battery on my dime.  No problem since, and I do leave the dashcam plugged in.

Yeah, I don't want to take it apart and risk them blaming me.  It has done it since new, although it started off with taking 5-10 button pushes before it would work.  It is the spare remote that sits in a drawer most of the time.

I will take it to the dealer but scheduling is a pain.  Plus I just know they will push buttons until it works, then say nothing wrong here.

I was just wondering if anyone else experienced this.

I do have 2 remotes.  The other one works first press every time.  Yesterday the offending remote took 50 button presses before it worked, but today it worked on the first try.  And I do have 1.5 years of warranty left.

Since new on my 2017 (new 18 mo ago), one of the FOBs hasn't worked very well.  Originally, you had to press a button several times before it worked.  Now it is over 20 button presses.  Once it works, all buttons work fine.  It works fine when you use the door button rather than the FOB buttons.  Not the battery.

Anyone else experience this?  I dread taking it to the dealer because they are clueless and will probably just keep pressing a button until it works, then say "There, nothing wrong with it" 

They would have to have probable cause before denying warranty.  That would mean sludged up (never changed oil) or multiple bearing failures (out of oil).

I started doing my own oil changes 40 years ago after the dealer boffed it (lost 1/2 the oil driving home).

Rather than a power tailgate, I would rather have glass that can be opened independently (like my 2011 Escape).  Opening the glass is faster and easier, and most items through (I rarely have to open the entire tailgate).

I agree about the Nav.  Ours did a couple of wonky things driving to Florida, like telling us to take I75 north near Cincinnati and get off I75 and go into downtown Atlanta.

On 7/12/2018 at 9:31 PM, Armando G said:

Remember the good ole days? This is up to date, and as long as you have a co-pilot that can read road signs, you're all good. 

 

LOL, we had an old AAA Trip-tik with us that was maybe more useful than the nav.

On 7/13/2018 at 1:43 PM, lmoore1436 said:

Yeah, do you have the sirius traffic? I find that if I should be on a highway and there is some traffic it will send me down roads that don't have traffic, but have quite a few traffic lights that slow me down. Other than those instances I haven't had any issues. 

No, I don't have Sirius traffic.  Even so, the times it tried to send me off the highway were early morning on a weekend, and there was no traffic on the highway.

5 hours ago, OhareFred said:

I have a portable Garmin Nuvi that I get free updates 4x a year as well as Lifetime traffic updates.  Think I paid about $150 5-6 years ago.  Nav is spot on, maps are 99% accurate, so it’s not a Garmin problem, it’s a UConnect/FCA/3rd party vendor problem. Your most current update you received is generally 18 months behind, which makes NO SENSE because  Garmin updates their maps quarterly.  Go figure....

I don't know how it could be a map update or Uconnect problem.  The highways in question have been there for decades.  Uconnect is just the interface with the Garmin nav.

It doesn't help that I discovered the night before we left the owner's manual has nothing on the nav system (doesn't even appear in the index).  Turns out there is a separate manual on the nav system but we didn't get it.  I downloaded a copy but that's no use when you are driving.  I was set on fastest route but we don't have traffic service.  Tried to set it up but it said not authorized or available or something.  Looking at the map afterwards, the detours it tried to send me on were longer distance, and no way could they be faster (e.g. 6 am on a Saturday).

Drove our new Journey to Florida. I know the route like the back of my hand but since it has nav we tried it out, On the first day I put in the address of the hotel for the night. On the second day, our Florida address.

I came to the conclusion it can't be trusted.

After crossing the border at Buffalo and getting on the 190, it said to take the first exit off, presumably into downtown Buffalo.  I knew that was wrong so I ignored it.

In Cincinnati, it said once "take I75 north". I didn't.  I even checked the dashcam later and it did indeed say north.

On I75 going through Atlanta, it said to exit into downtown Atlanta, and go to state road 41.  I think it confused FL Hwy 41, which is near our destination.

A couple of times it gave directions that weren't wrong, but not the shortest or most logical route.  I also got confused at times when we were getting back on the highway after a gas stop.

The nav system is by Garmin, which is an industry leader, but you would think the bugs would have been worked out.

Got mine done.  In and out in15 minutes.

21 hours ago, bramfrank said:

 

I would continue to use it.  The likelihood of a problem is actually very, very low.

It is very low likelihood, but by telling everyone note to use it, FCA will use that to deny liability if something does happen.  Besides, mine is brand new and I don't think I have even used the cruise yet.  If something is going to fail, it typically does very early (infant mortality) or after extended use, but not so much in between.

Got my notice and getting done this week. Going on a driving vacation next week so I need cruise (FCA said do not use cruise until the recall is done).