Dusty256

Ouch....that's just sad

Do your self a favor and check out rockauto.com ... They have a large selection of good quality parts.. You can get a tikem hub for about the same or less than a Napa brand part Hubs are not a area where you want to cheap out and Use u know parts

Warped rotors , something missed during alignment such as worn tie rod ends and coupler at the rack. Control arm bushings ... Struts ...

Wow dark tint , I thought the tint on mine was dark. My back windows are about that dark and fronts are a few shades lighter ...

What sensor did they take out ? The tire pressure monitor ? Tire pressure service kits are not that expensive .

I do believe the wheel speed sensors are not part of the hub. It shows up as a separate part on rock auto . Look one the back of the whole hub rotor brake assembly you should see it . Also it would help a lot to put a code reader on the obd2 port to point to which hub is tripping the code. Look at rockauto and you will find a listing for the part along with a good picture of it . You could also ask the auto parts store to show what it looks like .

the lines looked cleaner in black . the white pillers gives it a old style station wagon look.

You need to load test the battery with the car off . Reading voltage will give a close idea of the battery state of charge but load testing will tell you if its good or not . Any local auto parts stores will be happy to load test the battery . 19v is way way to high . Are you sure of that readimg

like the black better

It's new battery time .. 11.8 volts with the car off is a dead battery .. Will cause all kinds of problems

If it sat on the dealers lot a long time before it sold and being a older truck I would just change out the battery

Reminds me of my old 70 super bee.. Wish my journey could sound like it. Loud mouth thrush cut off under the seats ...very loud ...

Change the battery , I bet it's the original one...

Death wobble ? Running 15,000 miles like that ....how bad .

With Wagner termo quiet brake pads and new after market rotors I am amazed on how strong the brakes are now. Much much more stopping power. Pulled the back brakes and they look good ..before the brakes where so so .. I had checked them before they locked up and saw new pads but did not notice the rotors. Looks like the rotors must have been turned a few times and where original. Now just running through a few things that buying a used car surprises you with . Now it's a small shimmy in the stearing wheel around 55 which stops at 60. Might have lost a wheel weight messing about with the tire on the side of the road as it was not there before the brake job. I double checked my work by pulling everything apart and and making sure everything is tight. The passages side seems to have a little wear on the tie rods and not sure if it's inside or outside but plan on changing both on both sides of the truck and getting a alignment performed again. The dealer where I bought it said they just did amour wheel alignment but don't see how the miss the tie rods. In regards to autozone I have had no luck with them . Bought a dura last alternator for my old deville and it last six months . Bought some sway bar bushings and end links and they last four months before I had to replace them with Orem parts.

Yes autozone is junk

Could not find bigger brakes for this model year . It had the original rotors , still had mopar on the inside and looked like who ever did the brakes last just threw in a set of autozone pads and did not take the time to clean everything up right. The slide pins on that side where a little gummy too so I took them out and lubed them up pretty good. We also worked the caliper in and out a few time and the bled the lines until the brake fluid came out clear . Going to flush the whole system soon.

Think it was the missing clip . Lots of wear on the pad that it's was missing.. Took a little 30 mile drive and the brakes feel better. I noticed a drop in Rams need to keep the truck at 50 . Before I fixed the barks issue I had to keep the revs up a little past the 2k. Mark on the tach or about 2100 to 2200 rpm . Now it's below the 2k mark or about 1800 or so guess that side was really dragging .. Hope this takes car of it , I used Wagner pads and rotors and purchased the higher end semi-metlaic pads. Guess Sunday I will check out the rears

Well yesterday was going to the store and when I stopped I noticed the tale tale smell of brakes getting hot. Tried to baby it home but the right side got really hot. Managed to free things up by banging on the pads enough to get me home. Did not heat up again. This morning took it up to my shop and pulled things apart. Someone before me had just replaced the pads up front . The only problem is they forgot to put one anti rattle clip in the lower inboard side. Well long story short new pads and new rotors. I noticed the left front rotor was a lot thinner than the right side which tells me it must have been turned a time or two more than the right . Looks like stock calipers and rotors .where still on it Now just keeping an eye on the brakes , I know the 2009 was hard on brakes. So thinking I might just go ahead and replace the calipers too. The left side does not seem to be locking up as the caliper moves freely .just wondering if the missing clip caused the pads to bind up. I noticed the pads did not wear even with a lot of wear on the front part like it was jammed Is there something the the antilock brakes or the esp system that keeps some extra pressure on the calipers

I can see the clutch lock up at that speed and unlock about the same. Can see it unlock at 50 if I give it a slight amount of gas. . We will see today after I get some stuff done to her

Would the solenoid pack throw a code if it's bad ? I am not getting any codes.. Took it out for a quick test drive again and when I pulled back in the drive way it started acting ok.... Funny thing back in the 80's i had a mopar that you had to rev it to go in reverse. Was the modulator but I never fixed it ... Looking on line I can get a solenoid pack for about $150.00 so that's not bad to try it out. Wonder if I should get the flush and fill first I have a coupon with a local tranny shop for $89.00 for the service. They also have a coupon for a free inspection and put it on the computer.. Afraid of transmissions shops as they want your money.

The first owner kept the service up but not the second. Not sure when the tranny was last serviced but going to have a filter and fluid change done. Called a tranny shop and they sort off said the same thing. That and input output speed sensors. I put her on a scanner and the only code I get is from changing out the battery p1684 .. Going to sort out the brakes in the morning when it's cool , looks like the slides are cruddy and need a good cleaning and lube.. Figured with a used truck problems would pop up but they are so far not as bad as the caddie I had which had a ton of problems

Just bought his thing last month and now the transmission seems to be acting up. It's always had that annoying stutter coming up to a light or putting slow to a stop . Like when you dump a clutch downshifting . Well today I was coming up to my normal turn off and decided to drop in neutral and come to a stop to see if it made a difference. I also put in manual in low and drove it slow and shifted up through the gears while moving slowly... When I pulled in my drive way it dropped hard back to first gear I was only moving about five.. Now after doing that the transmission is slow to go in to drive. Pops in to reverse right away but move the selector to drive and you have to tap the gas a little to get it to pop in gear.... Went to a tranny shop but they want 200 just tell me what's going on. On the way home the drivers side caliper locked so I had to stop and free it up..the teams was working hard to keep the truck moving and when I pulled in to a parking lot it seemed to work ok , in to drive smooth. When I got home it seemed okay socixjust went in and cooled off. When I went back out to take it for a spin at first it went right in to gear but after a block long drive when I turned around it started doing it again. Fluid level is right where it should be and does not smell Burt Truck has 128,000 miles and not sure if the transmission has ever been service..

Sadly when I bought the car a few weeks ago it only had one key fob. Was going to order a second one bit will wait until money to see what happens. I only have one lightweight key on the fob ... Funny Cadillac had a recall just like this but the fix was a plug in the hole in the key so you could not put lots of keys on it .

Changed the plugs today and two of the boots where a little tight but they came right off. This had to be the easiest plug change I have ever done. Much better than my old 70 super bee where you had to crawl under the car to change them . Or my old north star where the back bank meant taking off a ton of stuff to get to them.. Dealer must really make a killing changing these out for others. It took less than 10 mins to change them .