onecrazyfoo4u Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 So I got my headlights and bumper unbolted to make it easier to install the lights. Put them in according to the instructions, and nothing. Checked it with a voltmeter and get this: Good power coming from stock light harness, plug the harness into the capacitor error eliminators, and I get a fluctuating 0-9 volts coming out of the capacitor output. Plug the capacity error eliminators into the ballast and have no volts at all coming out of the ballast. I don't get it. I installed exactly like the directions said. This is the order they said to install: Factory Wiring -> Adaptors (if needed) -> Capacitor Error Eliminator -> HID Harness -> Ballast -> Bulb. This is how I installed it: Factory wiring -> Capacitor Error Eliminator -> Ballast -> Bulb. I even tried removing the Capacitor from the setup and didn't get any voltage coming out of the Ballast. What am I doing wrong here? I checked with just turning the lights on and starting the car with the lights running. Does the car have to be running to have the HID's light up, or do they work fine running just off of battery power? Should the capacitor be fluctuating voltage like that? The instructions said to make sure you don't install with non-reverse wiring or they'll pop; I just installed them however the plug clipped on. What's weird is when I was taking voltage measurements on just the capacitor installed on factory wiring with lights turned on, it was fluctuating like that then popped and leaked fluid out. Are you not supposed to hook a multimeter up to the capacitors? Or does that mean I had the wiring reversed (meaning I would have to somehow hook the stock plug on backwords)? So I guess I need to order new capacitor error eliminators. This is what I ordered, DDM 35 watt 5000k HID's. No extra wiring harnesses, just the capacitor error code eliminators. Was I supposed to order some adapter harness or thicker gauge wiring? http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W Here's a picture of how I have my wiring running (I can't attach a picture for some reason, lame). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 That link takes me to a financial page and wont let me out. Are you just adding HID to stock headlights or are these the cheap/over priced projection ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedeyeJedi Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Did you try reversing the connection on the ballast? Sometimes they're backwards so the + and - sides are incorrect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecrazyfoo4u Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 That's wierd, link works for me. Try this one: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W I didn't try plugging it in reverse. Now that I'm reading up on it, it appears that was probably the problem (since one of the capacitors popped). For those that have installed HID kits, did you have to plug in the oem harness backwords (so that it won't clip on)? Does the car have to be running or will the HID's work on just battery power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedeyeJedi Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Now that I'm reading up on it, it appears that was probably the problem (since one of the capacitors popped). For those that have installed HID kits, did you have to plug in the oem harness backwords (so that it won't clip on)? Does the car have to be running or will the HID's work on just battery power? Yes, they clip in backwards sometimes. Ive never used a capacitor before either. Some say they flicker but ive never had a problem with that, at least that was noticeable. The lights should work as normal, with the car on or off, auto on, unlocking or whatever. But with HID, the first time you turn them on, let them run for 5 minutes or so at least. They need to get up to operating temperature the first time. If you dont, the color can sometimes be slightly different in each lamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 I've hooked them up backwards before and they just wont work but I did have one pop once, not sure what caused it other than it was defective, but the vendor replaced it for free. The lights should work w/o having the car running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecrazyfoo4u Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Okay, good to know, so first time they fire up I'll let the run for awhile. I noticed that there was a slight yellow film inside the HID bulb itself...hopefully that's not a sign of bad bulbs. Another weird thing is after the capacitor popped, the other side headlight oem headlight wire was only getting 6 volts (put the stock bulbs back in)...and that side headlight wouldn't turn on. I had to start the car to get that side headlight to turn back on normally. Somehow the capacitor popping tripped something in the wiring that cleared itself. Guess I'll try putting the wiring on backwards tonight to see if it works! Thanks for the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 You always need to check and make sure that you are negative to negative and positive to positive, especially when you buy a value brand like DDM. Also, be very careful when installing aftermarket HIDs on any Chrysler product because you can easily fry the TIPM if you get things mixed up and a replacement is $pendy (like $1,500!!!). jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecrazyfoo4u Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 You always need to check and make sure that you are negative to negative and positive to positive, especially when you buy a value brand like DDM. Also, be very careful when installing aftermarket HIDs on any Chrysler product because you can easily fry the TIPM if you get things mixed up and a replacement is $pendy (like $1,500!!!). That's the weird thing though, is there's no way to check the polarity on the capacitor error eliminator that I know of. It's not labeled, so I just installed it whatever way clipped on to the oem wire harness. Is there a way to check capacitor polarity with a multimeter? Sure hope I didn't damage anything in the electrical system! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 If your lights turned on then I'm sure you're fine. I've never used the eliminators as I always purchase (or make) a harness and use the capacitor just prior to the switches on the harness. The capacitor isn't hidden in a box then and you everything is pretty obvious as far as polarity... You should definitely check your ballast connection though, those are notoriously wrong on value brands... I would go ahead and try them without the capacitors to verify functionality. Then you have a starting point. Do you have pics of the capacitors (I can't see them from work if they are in a photo hosting website, sorry)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecrazyfoo4u Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 If your lights turned on then I'm sure you're fine. I've never used the eliminators as I always purchase (or make) a harness and use the capacitor just prior to the switches on the harness. The capacitor isn't hidden in a box then and you everything is pretty obvious as far as polarity... You should definitely check your ballast connection though, those are notoriously wrong on value brands... I would go ahead and try them without the capacitors to verify functionality. Then you have a starting point. Do you have pics of the capacitors (I can't see them from work if they are in a photo hosting website, sorry)? Here's a link to what I ordered with pictures. They are inclosed in a box with no label, no polarities, nothing. http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Error-Code-Eliminator-3-PAIR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 (edited) Here's a link to what I ordered with pictures. They are inclosed in a box with no label, no polarities, nothing. http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Error-Code-Eliminator-3-PAIR So, you can see the polarity on one side, but not the other... I would assume the other side would match up with the ones you can see... Regardless, try them without the capacitors to make sure they fire... That will point you in the right direction. EDIT: From the review on the link you sent me (notice it is a Dodge product)... "I bought these to go on my moms 06 dodge charger and they worked perfectly. The only thing for anyone else using these on Charger Magnum and 300's is you have to plug in the OEM plug into the canceler upside down or the bulbs wont turn on at all. Thanks DDM :" Edited June 12, 2014 by Lobitz68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
journeyfamily Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 brought my set from light depot .ca just plug and play, no extra relay's or capacitors to pop, 10 minute install been working fine ever since Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20journey11 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Installed HIDs on a chevy cobalt. Couldn't get them to come on. Checked voltage and it was 6 volts. Changed the ground to a different spot and got 12 volts. The lights work just fine now. Maybe this will help with your voltage issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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