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Towing newb, what do I need and how much?


onecrazyfoo4u

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I have a 2012 DJ Crew FWD with the 3.6L automatic. I don't have the towing package or a hitch yet. Not sure what the towing package included on the DJ. Looking to get started towing mainly to tow a little popup camper around a couple times a year. And to pull a little trailer for hauling things occasionally. I'm aware of the 2500lb tow limit.

But I don't know where to start. What else will I need besides a hitch? Are all hitches the same, or are some better than others? How much should I expect to spend on the hitch plus wiring and anything else needed? Thanks all!

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So for the hitch, does it matter if I get Class 2 or Class 3? They both are above the maximium tow weight for the DJ anyways. Besides that it looks like the only differences will be hitch size of 1 1/4" or 2" reciever. Does it matter which size you get here?

Then I'll need a wiring kit (which it looks like they're all universal, not DJ specific). Just a 4-wire system right, since the trailer won't have any brakes? And you just tap in to the tailights of the DJ is all right?

Then the actual ball and mount. Any preferences here? What's the most common ball size needed?

Will I need to buy a couple of chains too?

What about a brake controller? Is that only if your trailer has brakes? Anything I'm missing?

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hey ... welcome !

despite what a lot will say, I can tell you first hand, towing will be fine (as long as you're not a moron) ... lol ... we have a 10ft utility trailer we pull around during the year for various home projects but we also have a 2011 Rockwood camper, approx. 3500lbs and our 2012 R/T pulled it just fine from Southern Ontario to Cape Cod and back. No brake controller, we will be installing one this year if we still have the DJ ... but other than wearing out the crummy OEM rear tires, the DJ pulled the camper like a dream, even up and down the mountains through NY state and Vermont .... infact we somehow managed to get even better MPG than I get driving back and forth to work (I have a bit of a lead foot)

The R/T did come with the towing package and we put a class III hitch by curt on her ... love the look of the black tubing and it looks great too !

--- trying to add pictures from photobucket but its not allowing me too ..... when I can I'll add them here ---

Edited by sexyRTboi
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hey ... welcome !

despite what a lot will say, I can tell you first hand, towing will be fine (as long as you're not a moron) ... lol ... we have a 10ft utility trailer we pull around during the year for various home projects but we also have a 2011 Rockwood camper, approx. 3500lbs and our 2012 R/T pulled it just fine from Southern Ontario to Cape Cod and back. No brake controller, we will be installing one this year if we still have the DJ ... but other than wearing out the crummy OEM rear tires, the DJ pulled the camper like a dream, even up and down the mountains through NY state and Vermont .... infact we somehow managed to get even better MPG than I get driving back and forth to work (I have a bit of a lead foot)

The R/T did come with the towing package and we put a class III hitch by curt on her ... love the look of the black tubing and it looks great too !

--- trying to add pictures from photobucket but its not allowing me too ..... when I can I'll add them here ---

You can always link to those photos on photobucket, as opposed to trying to upload them here

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I have almost the identical vehicle to yours - 2013 Crew FWD 3.6. We tow a 1200 lb Jayco pop up camper. The Journey handles the camper, my family and all our gear with absolutely no problem whatsoever. Mine came with the Trailer Tow Prep Group which includes nothing more than an engine oil cooler (which most Journeys have anyway) and the wiring which connects to the body harness behind the rear fascia. Take a look at this page for what you'll need:

http://www.mopar.com/dodge/journey/2012/shop/335636/274/4953/

... and here's what the Mopar hitch looks like. It's a class III hitch; I whizzed off the bracket for the plug which was on the left side of the hitch because it looked hideous. I just tuck the wiring under the fascia and all is well:

journey33_zpsd5e2e3a2.jpg

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I have almost the identical vehicle to yours - 2013 Crew FWD 3.6. We tow a 1200 lb Jayco pop up camper. The Journey handles the camper, my family and all our gear with absolutely no problem whatsoever. Mine came with the Trailer Tow Prep Group which includes nothing more than an engine oil cooler (which most Journeys have anyway) and the wiring which connects to the body harness behind the rear fascia. Take a look at this page for what you'll need:

http://www.mopar.com/dodge/journey/2012/shop/335636/274/4953/

... and here's what the Mopar hitch looks like. It's a class III hitch; I whizzed off the bracket for the plug which was on the left side of the hitch because it looked hideous. I just tuck the wiring under the fascia and all is well:

journey33_zpsd5e2e3a2.jpg

Do you think the DJ 2014 2.4L automatic will be able to tow the same with a class III hitch?

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Thanks for the help everyone. I'll probably go with the Curt hitch and wiring kit just since it's so much cheaper. Then just find the appropriate size ball and receiver for what I'll be towing. I won't worry about the extra cooler or brake controller. Much easier than I thought!

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Our Jayco camper has hydraulic surge brakes. It's a purely mechanical system which requires no electric brake controller at all. Most trailers under 2000 lb have this type of brake system.

So how do they work if there's no hookup to the actual vehicle? Does that mean I would get just the 4-pin wiring kit for the trailer lights only?

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Surge brakes work via a mechanical plunger attached to a master cylinder located in the tongue of the trailer. When the vehicle brakes are applied, the forward surge of the camper pressing against the hitch ball activates the plunger in turn. The master cylinder forces hydraulic fluid through conventional steel brake lines to a set of drum brakes on the camper's wheels, just like the brake pedal acts upon the master cylinder in a car. The four way wiring is simply for lights.

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Surge brakes work via a mechanical plunger attached to a master cylinder located in the tongue of the trailer. When the vehicle brakes are applied, the forward surge of the camper pressing against the hitch ball activates the plunger in turn. The master cylinder forces hydraulic fluid through conventional steel brake lines to a set of drum brakes on the camper's wheels, just like the brake pedal acts upon the master cylinder in a car. The four way wiring is simply for lights.

Thank you so much for the explanation! Sounds like that's the way to go to keep it simple. We also are looking at a pop up camper to lug around. What size of ball does your camper take? And how much rise/drop of a reciever did you have to use?

Another random question, do these popup trailers typically come with a generator or the ability to have a generator mounted in them for fridge, A/C, electrical ?

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I posted a picture of our ball mount and ball in the topic you started about towing a pop up. Most pop up campers do not have provisions for installing a generator - most of the camper body is used to store the beds, canvas and equipment that it comes with. Some of the larger ones have storage on the tongue ahead of the propane tank(s) - you might fit a generator in there. Our camper is too small to put a generator in, and it has an icebox, not a fridge. However, Honda makes a very nice, compact and quiet generator that will run a fridge and small appliances like a toaster or coffemaker, and it is easily transported in your car or inside the camper while it is folded down for towing. Our camper has a 110v hookup which will run the outlets and any appliances if we're at a campsite with hookups, so we've really never needed a generator. The battery runs the lights inside of it and the propane gas takes care of cooking.

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