kickstand Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 I have a 2009 with 17" rims and would like to make sure they will fit with the 17" rims before I spent the money. What does it cost to do this uprade, roughly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickstand Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 And I am assuming that you just did the front brakes? Will you be doing the rear brakes too or do you think its a waste? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) I have a 2009 with 17" rims and would like to make sure they will fit with the 17" rims before I spent the money. What does it cost to do this uprade, roughly? I started researching this upgrade back in January when I read that the late 2012's were being delivered with big brakes. Have a read through this thread for more info on the parts & prices: http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/3062-12s-with-awd-have-bigger-brakes/page-4 The cost to do this upgrade depends on whether you can find the parts used or have to buy new. I did price these parts out new and the total cost was around $500. I had planned on doing this in the spring with new parts, but was able to score a great deal on everything I needed from a salvage yard for only $150, so I jumped on it. Since these brakes are only on the 2013 and some late 2012 cars, there are not many in the salvage yards yet. They would have to be really badly damaged to be written off. You could save a bit of money by buying just the calipers & brackets from the dealer and buy aftermarket rotors & pads as they are usually quite a bit cheaper. The only problem with that right now is availability is limited. There are not many sources for aftermarket pads & rotors yet since they are still new. As for 17" wheels, I parked next to a Grand Caravan today and snapped a picture of the wheel. It is a 17"wheel with the same bigger brakes underneath, so I think you should be OK. However, I am not 100% certain as the offset may not be the same and spacers may be needed. I have 17" wheels from a Chrysler Pacifica for my winter tires, so I will be able to test those in a few weeks. And I am assuming that you just did the front brakes? Will you be doing the rear brakes too or do you think its a waste? Yes, I only did the front brakes. When braking, the weight of the car shifts forward and there is much more weight on the front wheels, so the front brakes typically do 70-75% of the braking. That is why front brakes are always bigger than rear brakes on cars. I think the fronts are the only weak spot as far as brake rotor warpage goes. The rears have other issues, like premature pad wear due to hung up brake pads, but its not related to the rotor size. Besides, I had just done my rear brakes with new pads & rotors, so didn't want to change them so quickly. I may upgrade the rears in a couple years when the current set wear out. Edited October 3, 2013 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ondaora20 Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 I have spent the last few hours reading posts about the brakes on these Chrysler vehicles, and the upgrades, and I would like to do the same. Would you be able to help me with the part #'s for the rear brakes, as I want to do the rears as well as the fronts on my vehicle. Your assistance and these posts are completely appreciated. Thank you for your research on this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 (edited) IMHO, the costs outweigh the benefits of upgrading the rear brakes. Install a set of quality aftermarket pads & rotors and you should never have to worry about them. Having said that, if you really want to do it, here are the parts required: QTY Part Description Part Number Cost 1) 1 Caliper left side 68159525AA $108 1) 1 Caliper right side 68159524AA $108 2) 2 Slider pin kit 68144165AA $38 5) 2 Adapter bracket 68144208AA $116 6) 2 Rotor 04779713AA $128 8) 1 Splash sheild left 04779909AB $6 8) 1 Splash sheild right 04779908AB $6 11) 1 Pads 68192439AA $120 12) 2 Parking brake spring 68039257AA $5 Total = $635 Source: Factorychryslerparts.com If you want to save a few more $$$, do a Google search using the part numbers and you may be able to find them cheaper. I just used factorychryslerparts.com because it is very easy to navigate and has great diagrams of the parts. I am not 100% certain that it is necessary to purchase the slider pins? Sometimes they come with the adapters? But, as you can see, the total is more than the cost for upgrading the front brakes. And there is not nearly as much benefit from it. That is why I didn't even consider it for myself. Edited October 4, 2013 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ondaora20 Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Frogbox....thank you for researching this for me. And I understand your point about upgrading just the fronts vs all four sides. My concern was not having the same pieces installed on all four sides as was designed, but you have shown that isn't really necessary. But I am grateful that you took the time to get these additional part numbers for me. I will give this some serious thought. Thank you again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humansoul Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 thanks for the update and write up. I also own a 2011 DJ Crew and was thinking of doing the same and replacing the OEM rotors and brakes to the larger OEM ones, but the dealer did just replace all 4 corners, so currently I am happy with the set up for the time being. Can i inquire what junk yard you managed to scoop the brakes from? Was interested to see if there were any other parts that are available...was thinking of the driver seat as I found ours are squeaky and lost some of it's cushion already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) It was a wrecker in Quebec that happens to be 5 minutes drive from the inlaws. I grabbed them when i was up there visiting in September. Dumas & Fils Piece D'auto Usage in Cookshire: http://www.dumasetfils.ca/ Edited October 10, 2013 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparman Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Nice write up!! I will say, don't be to quick to upgrade the OE bigger pads and rotors to "better" aftermarket. The big OE stuff, does not dust hardly at all, and wears very very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) Frogbox two questions I have that don't think you have mentioned in your write up.....you did the brake bleeding manually but after a caliper replacement don't you need to bleed the ABS system separately? Also doesn't that have to be done by a special scan tool at the dealer? Edited October 29, 2013 by Journey_SeXT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted October 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 (edited) Nice write up!! I will say, don't be to quick to upgrade the OE bigger pads and rotors to "better" aftermarket. The big OE stuff, does not dust hardly at all, and wears very very well. Thanks for the info. I was not impressed with the amount of dust thrown off by the original brakes, so I assumed the bigger brakes would be a similar compound. It is common for many manufacturers to install softer compound brakes on new cars. You can get better braking performance with a soft compound, but the trade off is shorter pad life and more dust. I will monitor the rims to see how they compare to the rears. I have ceramic pads on the back. Frogbox two questions I have that don't think you have mentioned in your write up.....you did the brake bleeding manually but after a caliper replacement don't you need to bleed the ABS system separately? Also doesn't that have to be done by a special scan tool at the dealer? If you allow air into the system, then bleeding the ABS system would be required. The ABS pump has to be cycled and that can only be done with a scan tool. But as long as you don't allow air into the rest of the system, all that is required is to bleed the small amount of air in the caliper. No special tools required for that. Edited October 29, 2013 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the reply Frogbox! I thought I read somewhere that it had to be done with a caliper replacement. I just want to avoid doing a big brake job like this then having to go to the dealer to finish up the rest of the job. Edited October 30, 2013 by Journey_SeXT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted October 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 As long as you don't allow air upstream of the caliper (ie: into the hydraulic control unit), then traditional bleeding is fine. You cannot bleed air out of the HCU without a scan tool. It is needed to start the ABS pump manually. To prevent air from getting in there, just make sure you pinch the brake flex line to the caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted October 30, 2013 Report Share Posted October 30, 2013 To prevent air from getting in there, just make sure you pinch the brake flex line to the caliper. Gotcha...saw Eric the Carguy pinch them in his brake video. Thanks for the reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertlane Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 THANKS to Frogbox for the excellent article! I work for Shelby American and one of SOPs that we perform is a front brake upgrade and they make a huge difference. While we do offer a rear brake caliper upgrade, most customers generally just upgrade the rear rotors. It looks like the original stock calipers were single piston and the new ones are dual. I am going to investigate this upgrade to my 2012 Dodge Caravan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the kind words. I will admit I am surprised at the lack of options to upgrade the front brakes on the Journeys. Considering they have been built since 2008, I would have thought there would be several brake upgrade options from companies like Wilwood, etc. Especially considering the need for it on the Journeys & Grand caravans. I was also very surprised to find that the cost to do the upgrade with factory OEM parts was so cheap. All new parts for around $500 is a very economical upgrade. It would be a good enterprise if a shop could get the parts at a wholesale price, possibly get a volume discount too, and offer a full upgrade with labor included for $600-700. With the Journey & GC being one of North Americas most popular selling vehicles, there is no shortage of brakes that are in need of upgrading. Edited October 31, 2013 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertlane Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 I'm going to investigate upgrading my Caravan for certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustanghunter Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 FrogBox I can not thank you enough for providing this thread.....I had to find out the hard way about the brake system on journeys but love mine so much I just can't part with it....that being said I've just ordered that parts listed minus the rotors....got those somewhere else....and plan on getting this done this weekend....if I may I have an off topic question...and you seem knowledgable in the field of automobiles.....I have generally neglected my journey.....(i.e 15k OCI, no tune up or anything done since I bout mine at 55k back in oct 2010) now I am at 119k haven't had any issues....I want your opinion on auto rx or kreen for the oil and gas...but again thank you and hopefully add to this thread with another successful upgrade....your awesome...thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) FrogBox I can not thank you enough for providing this thread.....I had to find out the hard way about the brake system on journeys but love mine so much I just can't part with it....that being said I've just ordered that parts listed minus the rotors....got those somewhere else....and plan on getting this done this weekend....if I may I have an off topic question...and you seem knowledgable in the field of automobiles.....I have generally neglected my journey.....(i.e 15k OCI, no tune up or anything done since I bout mine at 55k back in oct 2010) now I am at 119k haven't had any issues....I want your opinion on auto rx or kreen for the oil and gas...but again thank you and hopefully add to this thread with another successful upgrade....your awesome...thanks! I dont use oil treatments, but I do add a bottle of lucas fuel system cleaner through every few months or so. Are you saying you have not even changed the oil since 2010? Edited January 8, 2014 by jkeaton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 FrogBox I can not thank you enough for providing this thread.....I had to find out the hard way about the brake system on journeys but love mine so much I just can't part with it....that being said I've just ordered that parts listed minus the rotors....got those somewhere else....and plan on getting this done this weekend....if I may I have an off topic question...and you seem knowledgable in the field of automobiles.....I have generally neglected my journey.....(i.e 15k OCI, no tune up or anything done since I bout mine at 55k back in oct 2010) now I am at 119k haven't had any issues....I want your opinion on auto rx or kreen for the oil and gas...but again thank you and hopefully add to this thread with another successful upgrade....your awesome...thanks! Most modern cars do not need tune ups like in the old days. Platinum or iridium tipped spark plugs easily last well over 100k miles. No plug wires or distributor rotors/caps to replace anymore. Just change the oil & filters (oil, air, fuel & cabin) at scheduled intervals and drive. As for 15k oil change intervals, that is pushing it a bit, but not the end of the world. Most cars that have the oil monitoring system go up to 10k before alerting the driver to change the oil. My recomendation to you is to switch to synthetic oil. It can easily go 15k between intervals. It is more expensive, but much less hassle. I change the oil in my VW every 6 months (around 10-12k miles or 16-19k km). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) I want your opinion on auto rx or kreen for the oil and gas...but again thank you and hopefully add to this thread with another successful upgrade....your awesome...thanks! I know that the Bobistheoilguy website has many threads regarding these products and it's effectiveness. Personally, I would stay away from any oil flush products as it may cause more harm than good especially if you are planning on using a harsh, aggressive chemical. A milder oil cleaning would be the use of seafoam in the oil crankcase and drive around for 30 miles before your oil change (I still don't endorse this product for oil flushing either). Seafoam is also good to add to your fuel system for cleaning but I do prefer to use products like Lucas, Gumout "Regane" and too bad we don't have it here in Ontario, Chevron Techron. Also as Frogbox mentioned 15k is really stretching the OCI and you should be changing your oil at half that amount even with synthetic. Edited January 9, 2014 by Journey_SeXT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdjourney Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Hi just reading all the write ups on brakes I have 2014 DJ LIMITED I don't like the braking on it ,brakes grab a lot mostly when it's wet or if the car sits for awhile like a day or so. I complained to dealer in December just before I left for Florida he said it was my tires,u need snow tires. I said if I was staying around all winter I would buy snow tires and that I don't need them in Florida for 3 months . I'm still having same problem brakes grabbing and when you brake a little hard it sems to stop real fast and quick . I have been driving dodge since 1999 never had a brake problem on any one of the cars or trucks I owned from challengers to chargers etc . But I like the DJ aside from the braking ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Have you inspected your brakes? May have a caliper sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdjourney Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Have you inspected your brakes? May have a caliper sticking. I only got 5000klms on it shouldn't have that problem but never know . It's suppose to have the bigger brakes right , maybe when I take it in for oil change before I leave to come back home get dealer to check ??? Don't know how dealers down here would treat u since ur from Canada ???. But I will check it out thanks for reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustanghunter Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Ok thanks for the feedback.....I'm still going to use kreen....already made my choice before posting......I'm gonna take some before and after pics see if there was any significantly positive effects......as far as the brakes go just got all my parts in so gonna do the upgrade this weekend....again thanks everyone for the feedback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.