Vibration on the steering wheel and chassis

[5rebel9]

43 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

no mention if one of the wheels have been hit or bent, I had a brand new journey 2011 came with a vibration ,I tracked it down to one of the rim,s dealer replaced it and fixed the problem I kept rotating front to rear in different   variations on the wheels till the vib was almost gone then took it to the dealership and told them what I had done and that the bad rim was one of the rears, they figured out which one and looking at it you couldn't tell just bad from the manufacture

You may be on to something here! I took the OP's word on multiple balancings being done and should have revealed a bad rim situation IF the person doing the task watched the tire AND wheel spin. One would not expect to see a bad aluminum rim unless a very noticeable bend from say a curb hit or severe pothole. I did countless tire changes and balances in my day and always watched how the tire and rim for "wobbling" as they spun in the balancer. Also an unusual amount of weight  being needed to bring a tire "into balance" should be another "tip off" to a tire or rim problem. My standard was anything over 4 ounces on a passenger car tire was cause for further investigation.

     My apologies to our metric standard members for not giving the metric equivalent, but I think you will understand the "gist" of my posting. 

Edited Sunday at 07:35 PM by 5rebel9

[John/Horace]

Some of us grew up on imperial and were made to switch in grade school, when feds brought in metric.  I still keep house thermostat in Fahrenheit, finer adjustment. The calculator on our smart phones is great for converting, so 4 ounces is 113 grams. 
 

Yeah hate seeing huge weights on a tire. Tire with largest weight usually  goes driver rear, farthest  from steering wheel. Most weights double marked, here is pick of a 1oz or 28 gram and a 1.5 oz or 43 gram. Four oz would be huge, around 4 inches, but I have seen them used.

 

 

 

[steve lada]

10 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Sounds like a frustrating problem, at least the stuff you have changed out are wear items. If you keep the car you are ahead.

 

You could paint mark all flange connections where driveshaft bolts up; then index the flanges and bolt together again. Or if you have the old shaft you could try reinstalling it. But before reinstalling another driveshaft try driving the vehicle up to vibration speed. If it’s gone you at least have the source. Driving without shaft may trigger a dash light, some people unplug the connector feeding the rear diff. It’s the coil power source for engaging awd.

 

When changing drive shafts mechanics usually mark current location. But with a new shaft it’s not an option. 
Some shops do have special vibration analysis tools for trouble shooting tricky problems.

I do not have the old drive shaft. the carrier bearing was clearly worn and rusted, and i was certain this problem was solved. not to be...now the mention of shops having a special analysis tool has my attention. I have never heard of such  a thing but my eye balls are wide open. my 2015 is soon to be a 2025..............would love to find this to help another guy. I was even gonna go back to the mechanics shop and fill him in in case he ever had one like this. its probably gonna cost me more than the damn thing is worth....but now ..I'm pissed.

[steve lada]

you are right about one thing,most are wear parts. so my 2015 is almost a 2025!   all of the wheels have been checked many times on a high speed balance machine.  John,are you saying try driving without the driveshaft connected?  hmmmmmm and letting the front wheel drive take over??? I never would have thought of this. but can this really be done?

[John/Horace]

5 hours ago, steve lada said:

you are right about one thing,most are wear parts. so my 2015 is almost a 2025!   all of the wheels have been checked many times on a high speed balance machine.  John,are you saying try driving without the driveshaft connected?  hmmmmmm and letting the front wheel drive take over??? I never would have thought of this. but can this really be done?

Yes it has been done by several people on the site for trouble shooting. Safe, doesnt hurt anything.  This facebook link to Royalty Auto Surface(good info site)  shows chasis vibration sensors locating problem. Not all shops have this equipment. When I worked as a millwright mechanic before retiring, we had vibration analysis tools. 

 

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1FTMQhM1NF/

 

5 hours ago, steve lada said:

 

 

Edited Monday at 05:41 PM by John/Horace

[2late4u]

NOT on a dodge journey but the same process to see if your problem is rear end related also this has been discussed here in the forum quite a bit on driving without the awd shaft installed you tube is full of a lot of info check it out 

[2late4u]

you mentioned........

There was a small impact in aft RH wheel (you can see attached photo) but everything in the rear suspension has been replaced including the shock absorber with new parts.

Balancing of all wheels done.

All mentioned below parts are new as well:

All brake rotors plus servicing of the calipers.

Rear RH and front LH wheel hub/bearing

Rear RH drive shaft                               so was the wheel bearing on which this damaged rim was replaced as well???? I see you said it was the same feeling with the 19 inch rims and the 17 inch rims as well that is why I am asking about the wheel bearing ..........good luck

[steve lada]

wow that is fantastic information my friend! but first, their are two people with the same problem here mine did not have any impact at all. and all of the parts I listed I see that i forgot to mention all struts have been replaced as well....just to be sure here's the list again.  all 4 struts all 4 cv shafts, intermediate shaft,drive shaft with carrier bearing, all brakes and rotors,all hubs and wheel bearings, front steering knuckles with new ball joints, new tie rod ends,rear lower and upper lateral links, new Michelin tires, wheel alignment.  crazy huh?   I cant wait to try the front wheel drive test. I will keep you posted Thank-You again so much

[5rebel9]

14 minutes ago, steve lada said:

wow that is fantastic information my friend! but first, their are two people with the same problem here mine did not have any impact at all. and all of the parts I listed I see that i forgot to mention all struts have been replaced as well....just to be sure here's the list again.  all 4 struts all 4 cv shafts, intermediate shaft,drive shaft with carrier bearing, all brakes and rotors,all hubs and wheel bearings, front steering knuckles with new ball joints, new tie rod ends,rear lower and upper lateral links, new Michelin tires, wheel alignment.  crazy huh?   I cant wait to try the front wheel drive test. I will keep you posted Thank-You again so much

Just so I understand better....

you only get this vibration at speeds above 75mph? 

A bad rim or tire would show up around 50 - 65mph. Thanks to my area, I dare not push speeds beyond 70mph and only in a short passing situation.

Is the onset of this vibration felt more thru the steering wheel or from the floor/rear area?

AND just how "severe" is this vibration? Is it an annoyance or "OMG" I have to slow down till it goes away????

[steve lada]

from 0to 60 id say no vibration at all. then as I pick up speed its starts to vibrate when I get on the freeway (and I'm around them a lot at 75 to 85.. I usually set cruise at 83) the vibration is not a radical need to pull over or dangerous one at all but very annoying. and constant.  picture the water in a glass buzzing in the cup holder. and put that feeling both in the steering wheel and the seat.  so yesterday john here suggested I try taking the driveshaft off and driving it.  and I did.....I thought for sure this would do it.  NOPE!   but this test does eliminate the driveshaft being out of balance.  now it did seem to be a little easier on the vibrate but I'm not really sure. I need to drive it around for a few more days  before I can put a definite yes or no on it.  now with the shaft off, the viscous housing is still turning so.....on the list, a few mentioned rear sub frame bushings...on the list, did not replace front lower control arms,on the list.   I know you mentioned the wheels but they are not the problem had the looked at by 3 different places..  I have been wrenching cars my entire life.  and I'm 68   this one..........I wanna shoot

[5rebel9]

We have VERY SIMILAR backgrounds!!!

 Actually the viscous coupler is NOT spinning with driveshaft out, BUT the differential IS spinning on the spider gears and ring gear/and bearings. Just like the rear end of any RWD vehicle and why I suggested checking the rear diff gear lube. 

As I stated, I can't and don't hit the speeds you can{legally}, but I have to question that your vibration MAY be wear in the rear differential. What did the drain plug magnet show like when you "changed out" the diff. fluid?

The front PTO also has gear lube and is rather difficult to check/fill. but low on lube or worn can cuase vibration through front floor AND steering. NOTE, both units I would NOT put on a list to just replace with new/reman. units....it would cost more than the car is probably worth. 

Thanks for clarifying things, I think all here now have a much better understanding of the situation. Keep us posted!