B4ZINGA

I've only needed assistance twice. The first time was when the radiator blew out on my 300M at 10pm on back roads. I didn't even think of calling my insurance company to tow it to a service shop (far too old to have Chrysler Roadside). Second time wasn't for me. A few friends and I went camping two weekends ago using my Journey and another friends Buick LeSabre. Well, he changed into his sleeping clothes behind the Buick, and toss his shorts into the trunk. His keys were in the shorts. Didn't find that out until the following morning. I didn't use Dodge Roadside, I used my AAA membership that I got shortly after I had oversize tires installed on my 300M and knew I couldn't use the spare anymore. They sent a tow truck to jimmy the Buick open, no questions asked. AAA follows the member, not the car.

I've only needed assistance twice. The first time was when the radiator blew out on my 300M at 10pm on back roads. I didn't even think of calling my insurance company to tow it to a service shop (far too old to have Chrysler Roadside). Second time wasn't for me. A few friends and I went camping two weekends ago using my Journey and another friends Buick LeSabre. Well, he changed into his sleeping clothes behind the Buick, and toss his shorts into the trunk. His keys were in the shorts. Didn't find that out until the following morning. I didn't use Dodge Roadside, I used my AAA membership that I got shortly after I had oversize tires installed on my 300M and knew I couldn't use the spare anymore. They sent a tow truck to jimmy the Buick open, no questions asked. AAA follows the member, not the car.

Since purchasing my 2014 in May I've noticed something like that in my dimming rearview mirror, and it's very visible at all times. I've just figured it was residue left by something stuck to the mirror by the mirror manufacturer, someone in Toluca during assembly to tell workers what parts had to go in, someone during shipment from Toluca to Southfield, MI, or even someone at the dealer in Southfield.
I haven't gotten around to cleaning it yet since I honestly never think to clean the rearview in any of my cars. It looks vaguely like a barcode, which is what leads me to believe it's just residue.
If it doesn't clean off with Windex or Stoner's Invisible glass, try using a fine mesh netting in conjunction with the cleaner to lightly abrade the surface without scratching it. Invisible Glass cleaning wands available at many auto parts stores come with just such a netting for removing stuck-on junk like that. They're also fabulous for cleaning front and rear windshields without straining to reach, and I've used that netting bonnet to clean rubber transfer from the window weatherstripping. You can also try Goo-Gone.
All else fails, tell the dealer and find out if it can be replaced under warranty, as it may be something beneath the glass.

I find it interesting that laws are being passed left and right about cell phone use in moving vehicles, yet manufacturers are cramming more and more functions into a touch screen that requires you to take your eyes off the road to make any adjustment to anything. IMO, dials and knobs are much less distracting and easier to operate while driving.

As was stated already, factory-installed tires tend to be lower in overall quality. My Charger had the factory Goodyear RS-As on it when I bought it at 28,000 miles. By 35,000 miles they were overdue and dangerous, and were never really all that good to start with. I replaced them with Kumho Ecsta 4X, which got me to about 71,000 miles. Replace them in February after spending this terrible winter powersliding around every intersection with Toyo Proxes 4, which gripped in the snow like superglue.
So far the factory Kumho Solus on my R/T are fine, but I don't even have 4,000 miles on it yet. When this set wears out, I'm hoping to pick up a set of Grand Cherokee SRT wheels, 20x9, and fit them with a good set of Hankook tires, then fit the OEM 19" wheels with a set of Toyo Proxes 4 for winter duty. I have Hankook Ventus V12s on my 300M year-round (sits from November through April while old man winter has his way with the Great Lakes region and Detroit area) and so far I like the grip they provide, though I did notice some hydroplaning while driving through a nasty cell at 75 MPH a few weeks ago... nasty enough that other people were pulling over and I had to reduce speed to 35-40. Still didn't lose control.

That's correct. On my 300M it is known that a TB spacer is pointless. A lower-intake-manifold spacer, however, has produced a dyno-proven 30 ft-lb torque improvement across the range. Your best bet is to see what other vehicles equipped with the Pentastar V6 are managing with regard to performance parts. The Avenger would be the closest cousin in engine layout and engine bay design.

Exactly. Every other car I see around the Detroit area is a Journey. It's a very popular vehicle, enough that it was a major point for Fiat in its acquisition of Chrysler since it wanted to sell the Journey badged as a Fiat in Europe. Trouble is, buyers want it for its versatility and family-friendliness (I wanted mine for toting the dog around and having a lot more cargo capacity than my Charger offered). They don't buy it to see if they can turn a 10-second quarter mile or lap M3s on the road course. Next year I'll be looking into wider wheels and tires and more low-end torque to satisfy my cravings... but that's it. Diablo is successful with the LX cars because there is a large following that wants to blow the doors off of Mustangs. If I want to do that, I'll buy a sports car as a toy, not a crossover.

It's not that the DJ isn't popular enough. There are tons of them on the road. It's the fact that the majority of DJ owners are not looking to up the performance of the vehicle (as previously stated). Am I interested in improving the performance of mine? Yes. Am I willing to spend $300-$400 for a tuner? No. The wife drives it 90% of the time as this is our "family" car. I did not buy the DJ with performance in mind.

That's correct. European cars have an additional red light in the back to help drivers behind them see them in thick fog. Parking lights tend not to be enough, so a brighter set of red fog lights help substantially.
They aren't intended to be on all the time, however it's not uncommon to see Audi's in the US with their rear foglights on constantly, even in clear weather, I suppose for some kind of cool factor.

I realize this in an old thread, but there was something in the OP that made me wince.
Do NOT use fabric softener on your MF towels while washing them. Part of the charm of microfiber is the static charge that sucks up dust particles. Fabric softener ruins their ability to do this. Just use detergent (without softener). When drying, the preference is for low or no heat. Heat ruins the fibers.
http://www.autogeek.net/mi101.html
I've gotten quite a few great detailing tips from Autogeek, I highly suggest anyone interested in washing their vehicle go there and peruse. They also sell many different products.
Lately I've become affluent in car detailing, as I take my 2002 300M Special to car shows both local and far away. That car has a detailing regimen that is probably far more work than anyone would want to do on their daily driver.
Here's what I did on my Journey a week after I took it home from the dealer, 6 months after it was produced (production 01/2014, original in-service date 3/20/2014, my purchase date 5/20/2014). Yes, I highly recommend doing this even for a car hot out of the factory. The first wash felt like sandpaper, and now it feels like glass.
1. Wash wheels, engine bay, tires, wheel wells - Spray engine bay down, avoiding electronics (battery, alternator, fuse/relay center, PCM/TCM/ECM, some people put foil over these, I never have and have not had issues). Spray a good degreaser on dirtiest parts, avoiding rubber and paint. Let sit a minute, then hose off. Do not start engine until it has dried. Do not use Simple Green, as it is known to cause corrosion on aluminum parts. I use Purple Power Citrus available at Autozone.
Wheels - spray down with Adams Green Wheel Cleaner. Follow directions on bottle, and spray off. If the wheel is particularly nasty, scrub with a wheel brush. Do this on the wheel face and on the inside, reaching between the spokes. Special brushes are available to get around the lug nuts.
Wheel wells - Spray the liners with Black Magic Bleche White. Hose off. Take a wad of Nevr Dull (auto parts store) and rub it around the liner. Great for removing road tar and many nasty things we run over each day. Spray again with Bleche White and hose off to remove white residue left behind by Nevr Dull.
Tires - Scrub with auto wash. There is product similar to Bleche White made for black tires, though I have not used it. I have used Purple Power in the past with good results.
2. Wash - Meguiar's Deep Crystal Wash (Advance) (car wash soap is fairly irrelevant, as its only purpose is to provide lubrication between the wash mitt and paint surface to aid in dirt/grime removal), two 5-gallon buckets (nice and cheap at Home Depot), two grit guards (autogeek, and sometimes at major car shows under vendor tents), blue "chenille" wash mitt (Advance). Wash whole exterior, get in all the tight spots, use top-down approach. IE wash horizontal surfaces first, then verticle surfaces, then fascias and rockers. Doing so avoids rubbing dirt into the paint. Have soap solution in one bucket, plain water in the other. Rinse your mitt after wiping it on the car in the water bucket, reaching down to the bottom and rubbing it against the grit guard to remove dirt and contaminants, before dipping into the soap bucket for fresh soap. One panel at a time, rinse it before it dries, and keep vehicle wet until you're finished and ready to dry.
Dry vehicle with waffle-weave microfiber towel. I like to soak the towel first, then ring it out. Sounds counter-productive, but it helps the towel soak up water much better. I drag it across the vehicle front to back, then get the sides, then fascias and rockers.
Open your hood, trunk/gate, doors, fuel door and use a waterless wash spray (Griots Garage waterless wash at Advance is nice) and MF towel to clean and dry your jambs and backside of doors, hood, decklid/liftgate. This is important to complete the clean look and help avoid rust forming from water left in the door seams.
3. Clay bar - Meguiar's Gold Class (any auto parts store). Yes, even a brand new vehicle. ESPECIALLY a brand new vehicle. These cars leave the factory with fresh paint before they've fully cured. They're exposed to pollen, the elements, rail dust, etc as they're transported to the dealer. The result is a surface not unlike sandpaper. Take the clay bar and fold it over, knead it. Three times. Take any plain detail spray (I like Meguiar's Quik Detail, which comes in the Clay Bar kit), spray a section of a panel, slide the clay bar across the surface back and forth, up and down, not in circles, until there is no more resistance. Do not rub it in, use minimal pressure. Keep the surface lubricated with the detail spray. Wipe it off with a clean MF towel and, fold over the clay and knead it, move to the next section. If you drop the clay bar, throw it out and get fresh clay. It WILL pick up garbage from the ground and WILL scratch the paint. I clay bar my show car once per year in the Spring, and my daily driver twice per year before and after Winter.
4. If you have a lot of swirls and scratches, this is where you would polish the car. I like Meguiar's M105 heavy cut polish for heavy swirls, followed by M205 fine-cut to finish it out. Otherwise M205 is fine. Be aware, this stuff dries white. It will get on plastic trim if it isn't masked off, and it will collect in paint chips. My paint was fine, having only 2,000 miles on it, so I did not polish it (and yes, I have a pure black PX8 Journey). Be careful, as it will leave white marks on any plastic or rubber it gets on. Standard fare with auto store waxes and polishes. If that does happen, Stoner makes a product called Trim Shine that has worked well at restoring and cleaning up the textured grey plastic ground effects on my Special.
5. If you're satisfied with the level of swirls in the paint (IE didn't have any to start, or removed them in step 4) you can now move on to your favorite sealant or wax. If you just want wax or sealant and to be done with it, you can't go wrong with products by Meguiar's, Griot's Garage, and Mother's at auto parts stores. They dry white, so be careful. Spread it on, and let it dry. Do the whole vehicle before you start buffing it off. If you buff it off before it dries, then it hasn't adhered to the paint and you've wasted product and time. On my Journey, I used a product called Zaino AIO. This is an all-in-one swirl remover, polish, and wax. Zaino recommends it for daily drivers. Zaino itself is a fairly expensive product, I think I spent close to $150 this year buying Z-AIO, Z-2, Z-5, Z-6, Z-9, Z-10, and Z-FX. Each of those products does different things (Z-2 and Z-5 are polish coats, Z-FX is a flash cure additive for Z-2 and Z-5, Z-6 is a gloss enhancing spray, Z-9 and Z-10 are leather products). It's expensive, but when used properly it lasts a long time. My $150 investment should last a few years at least. The key Zaino is "a little goes a long way". I use a dime-sized amount of product per panel.That's right. A dime. Any more than that is wasted product. One ounce of Z-5 and Z-2 does three coats on a sedan. I used maybe one ounce on one coat of Z-AIO on my Journey.
On my show car I used ALL of those products to get a "mile-deep" shine out of the Deep Sapphire Blue pearlcoat paint. On my daily driver, I used one coat of Z-AIO. One coat of that stuff covered up what few swirls I had and put down a layer of protection that has nasty rainwater micro-beading two months later. The fun thing about Zaino? Layering it makes it better and better. On my show car I have one coat of Z-AIO, three coats of Z-5, a coat of Z-6, and three coats of Z-2. I used Z-FX flash-cure additive to reduce the cure time from 8 hours to 20 minutes on the Z-2 and Z-5, and people can't stop staring at it. The paint is smoother now than it was when it left Brampton Assembly in April 2002. I'll keep layering on Z-2 through October to deepen the shine before I store it for the Winter.
Z-AIO combines the effects of those products to work very well in a daily-driver application. Two coats should be enough to last you 4-6 months. I'll apply maybe 5 coats throughout the year between full details. With that much use, the bottle should easily last a few years. Obviously with multiple cars, it will go faster.
6. Trim and tires - I use Adams VRT and Stoner Trim Shine on all plastic and rubber trim, as well as weatherstripping in the door and trunk openings. I use Stoner More Shine on the tires and engine plastics. I may soon start using Black Magic Tire Gel, but that is more involved. Use a brush to get the gel into all of the features of the side wall. Do each tire, then come back with an old towel and buff off the excess product, otherwise you'll sling it all over the car.
7. Interior - Since this isn't in the interior section, I'll just quickly note how to clean the inside. Vacuum the carpet and mats. Use Bissel Mean Green Machine to shampoo if you have to. Vacuum seats. Use Z-10 Leather in a Bottle to restore your leather if you have it. 303 Aerospace protectant on the dash, console, door panels. Do not let it dry. Spray on a MF towel, wipe on, buff off.
Glass - Stoner Invisible glass every time. Safe on tint and doesn't streak.
Some tips:
Meguiar's ScratchX is great for getting out surface scratches and swirls in your clearcoat and paint.
Meguiar's PlastX is great for cleaning up headlight and tail light lenses. I used both of these on a salvage yard tail light for my show car that looked tired next to the mint light on the other side, and it cleaned up perfectly.
Nevr-Dull is an awesome product with many uses. I described it here for the wheel well liners, however I also use it on my polished exhaust tips, polished and machined wheel surfaces, and various metal surfaces under the hood to remove stuck-on dirt and remove contaminants from the metal. Wipe away the wadding chemical with a MF towel.
MF towels - Softer the better. I get mine at Costco - pack of 36 for $16
Black trim dressing - I use a product called BlackWOW to dress a lot of the trim on my show car. There is also PreWOW for cleaning the surfaces if needed. I have not used it on my dail driver and do not use it often, since the Pre-WOW and BlackWOW kit at Autogeek is $45. I used it on the rear window trim on my Special that has been nasty and fighting me for years. Now it looks brand new. I let it sit for several hours before allowing water to hit it, and it hasn't washed off yet, in spite of washing the car and driving it through two super cell storms in PA. The stuff smells great, too.
In between washes, as suggested the California Duster is great for removing dust. If it has rained, it's best to wash the car. Use only a GENUINE CALIFORNIA DUSTER. Knock-offs don't suck up the dust nearly as well.
After a weekly washed use a spray detailer - Meguiar's Quik Detail, Eagle One Nanowax detailer, Zaino Z-6 are all good. The Zaino is expensive, so I only use it for shows. Otherwise I use Meguiar's and Eagle One. Meguiar's NXT Generation and Final Inspection are also good ones to use, I have a bottle of Final Inspection in my kit.

I realize this in an old thread, but there was something in the OP that made me wince.
Do NOT use fabric softener on your MF towels while washing them. Part of the charm of microfiber is the static charge that sucks up dust particles. Fabric softener ruins their ability to do this. Just use detergent (without softener). When drying, the preference is for low or no heat. Heat ruins the fibers.
http://www.autogeek.net/mi101.html
I've gotten quite a few great detailing tips from Autogeek, I highly suggest anyone interested in washing their vehicle go there and peruse. They also sell many different products.
Lately I've become affluent in car detailing, as I take my 2002 300M Special to car shows both local and far away. That car has a detailing regimen that is probably far more work than anyone would want to do on their daily driver.
Here's what I did on my Journey a week after I took it home from the dealer, 6 months after it was produced (production 01/2014, original in-service date 3/20/2014, my purchase date 5/20/2014). Yes, I highly recommend doing this even for a car hot out of the factory. The first wash felt like sandpaper, and now it feels like glass.
1. Wash wheels, engine bay, tires, wheel wells - Spray engine bay down, avoiding electronics (battery, alternator, fuse/relay center, PCM/TCM/ECM, some people put foil over these, I never have and have not had issues). Spray a good degreaser on dirtiest parts, avoiding rubber and paint. Let sit a minute, then hose off. Do not start engine until it has dried. Do not use Simple Green, as it is known to cause corrosion on aluminum parts. I use Purple Power Citrus available at Autozone.
Wheels - spray down with Adams Green Wheel Cleaner. Follow directions on bottle, and spray off. If the wheel is particularly nasty, scrub with a wheel brush. Do this on the wheel face and on the inside, reaching between the spokes. Special brushes are available to get around the lug nuts.
Wheel wells - Spray the liners with Black Magic Bleche White. Hose off. Take a wad of Nevr Dull (auto parts store) and rub it around the liner. Great for removing road tar and many nasty things we run over each day. Spray again with Bleche White and hose off to remove white residue left behind by Nevr Dull.
Tires - Scrub with auto wash. There is product similar to Bleche White made for black tires, though I have not used it. I have used Purple Power in the past with good results.
2. Wash - Meguiar's Deep Crystal Wash (Advance) (car wash soap is fairly irrelevant, as its only purpose is to provide lubrication between the wash mitt and paint surface to aid in dirt/grime removal), two 5-gallon buckets (nice and cheap at Home Depot), two grit guards (autogeek, and sometimes at major car shows under vendor tents), blue "chenille" wash mitt (Advance). Wash whole exterior, get in all the tight spots, use top-down approach. IE wash horizontal surfaces first, then verticle surfaces, then fascias and rockers. Doing so avoids rubbing dirt into the paint. Have soap solution in one bucket, plain water in the other. Rinse your mitt after wiping it on the car in the water bucket, reaching down to the bottom and rubbing it against the grit guard to remove dirt and contaminants, before dipping into the soap bucket for fresh soap. One panel at a time, rinse it before it dries, and keep vehicle wet until you're finished and ready to dry.
Dry vehicle with waffle-weave microfiber towel. I like to soak the towel first, then ring it out. Sounds counter-productive, but it helps the towel soak up water much better. I drag it across the vehicle front to back, then get the sides, then fascias and rockers.
Open your hood, trunk/gate, doors, fuel door and use a waterless wash spray (Griots Garage waterless wash at Advance is nice) and MF towel to clean and dry your jambs and backside of doors, hood, decklid/liftgate. This is important to complete the clean look and help avoid rust forming from water left in the door seams.
3. Clay bar - Meguiar's Gold Class (any auto parts store). Yes, even a brand new vehicle. ESPECIALLY a brand new vehicle. These cars leave the factory with fresh paint before they've fully cured. They're exposed to pollen, the elements, rail dust, etc as they're transported to the dealer. The result is a surface not unlike sandpaper. Take the clay bar and fold it over, knead it. Three times. Take any plain detail spray (I like Meguiar's Quik Detail, which comes in the Clay Bar kit), spray a section of a panel, slide the clay bar across the surface back and forth, up and down, not in circles, until there is no more resistance. Do not rub it in, use minimal pressure. Keep the surface lubricated with the detail spray. Wipe it off with a clean MF towel and, fold over the clay and knead it, move to the next section. If you drop the clay bar, throw it out and get fresh clay. It WILL pick up garbage from the ground and WILL scratch the paint. I clay bar my show car once per year in the Spring, and my daily driver twice per year before and after Winter.
4. If you have a lot of swirls and scratches, this is where you would polish the car. I like Meguiar's M105 heavy cut polish for heavy swirls, followed by M205 fine-cut to finish it out. Otherwise M205 is fine. Be aware, this stuff dries white. It will get on plastic trim if it isn't masked off, and it will collect in paint chips. My paint was fine, having only 2,000 miles on it, so I did not polish it (and yes, I have a pure black PX8 Journey). Be careful, as it will leave white marks on any plastic or rubber it gets on. Standard fare with auto store waxes and polishes. If that does happen, Stoner makes a product called Trim Shine that has worked well at restoring and cleaning up the textured grey plastic ground effects on my Special.
5. If you're satisfied with the level of swirls in the paint (IE didn't have any to start, or removed them in step 4) you can now move on to your favorite sealant or wax. If you just want wax or sealant and to be done with it, you can't go wrong with products by Meguiar's, Griot's Garage, and Mother's at auto parts stores. They dry white, so be careful. Spread it on, and let it dry. Do the whole vehicle before you start buffing it off. If you buff it off before it dries, then it hasn't adhered to the paint and you've wasted product and time. On my Journey, I used a product called Zaino AIO. This is an all-in-one swirl remover, polish, and wax. Zaino recommends it for daily drivers. Zaino itself is a fairly expensive product, I think I spent close to $150 this year buying Z-AIO, Z-2, Z-5, Z-6, Z-9, Z-10, and Z-FX. Each of those products does different things (Z-2 and Z-5 are polish coats, Z-FX is a flash cure additive for Z-2 and Z-5, Z-6 is a gloss enhancing spray, Z-9 and Z-10 are leather products). It's expensive, but when used properly it lasts a long time. My $150 investment should last a few years at least. The key Zaino is "a little goes a long way". I use a dime-sized amount of product per panel.That's right. A dime. Any more than that is wasted product. One ounce of Z-5 and Z-2 does three coats on a sedan. I used maybe one ounce on one coat of Z-AIO on my Journey.
On my show car I used ALL of those products to get a "mile-deep" shine out of the Deep Sapphire Blue pearlcoat paint. On my daily driver, I used one coat of Z-AIO. One coat of that stuff covered up what few swirls I had and put down a layer of protection that has nasty rainwater micro-beading two months later. The fun thing about Zaino? Layering it makes it better and better. On my show car I have one coat of Z-AIO, three coats of Z-5, a coat of Z-6, and three coats of Z-2. I used Z-FX flash-cure additive to reduce the cure time from 8 hours to 20 minutes on the Z-2 and Z-5, and people can't stop staring at it. The paint is smoother now than it was when it left Brampton Assembly in April 2002. I'll keep layering on Z-2 through October to deepen the shine before I store it for the Winter.
Z-AIO combines the effects of those products to work very well in a daily-driver application. Two coats should be enough to last you 4-6 months. I'll apply maybe 5 coats throughout the year between full details. With that much use, the bottle should easily last a few years. Obviously with multiple cars, it will go faster.
6. Trim and tires - I use Adams VRT and Stoner Trim Shine on all plastic and rubber trim, as well as weatherstripping in the door and trunk openings. I use Stoner More Shine on the tires and engine plastics. I may soon start using Black Magic Tire Gel, but that is more involved. Use a brush to get the gel into all of the features of the side wall. Do each tire, then come back with an old towel and buff off the excess product, otherwise you'll sling it all over the car.
7. Interior - Since this isn't in the interior section, I'll just quickly note how to clean the inside. Vacuum the carpet and mats. Use Bissel Mean Green Machine to shampoo if you have to. Vacuum seats. Use Z-10 Leather in a Bottle to restore your leather if you have it. 303 Aerospace protectant on the dash, console, door panels. Do not let it dry. Spray on a MF towel, wipe on, buff off.
Glass - Stoner Invisible glass every time. Safe on tint and doesn't streak.
Some tips:
Meguiar's ScratchX is great for getting out surface scratches and swirls in your clearcoat and paint.
Meguiar's PlastX is great for cleaning up headlight and tail light lenses. I used both of these on a salvage yard tail light for my show car that looked tired next to the mint light on the other side, and it cleaned up perfectly.
Nevr-Dull is an awesome product with many uses. I described it here for the wheel well liners, however I also use it on my polished exhaust tips, polished and machined wheel surfaces, and various metal surfaces under the hood to remove stuck-on dirt and remove contaminants from the metal. Wipe away the wadding chemical with a MF towel.
MF towels - Softer the better. I get mine at Costco - pack of 36 for $16
Black trim dressing - I use a product called BlackWOW to dress a lot of the trim on my show car. There is also PreWOW for cleaning the surfaces if needed. I have not used it on my dail driver and do not use it often, since the Pre-WOW and BlackWOW kit at Autogeek is $45. I used it on the rear window trim on my Special that has been nasty and fighting me for years. Now it looks brand new. I let it sit for several hours before allowing water to hit it, and it hasn't washed off yet, in spite of washing the car and driving it through two super cell storms in PA. The stuff smells great, too.
In between washes, as suggested the California Duster is great for removing dust. If it has rained, it's best to wash the car. Use only a GENUINE CALIFORNIA DUSTER. Knock-offs don't suck up the dust nearly as well.
After a weekly washed use a spray detailer - Meguiar's Quik Detail, Eagle One Nanowax detailer, Zaino Z-6 are all good. The Zaino is expensive, so I only use it for shows. Otherwise I use Meguiar's and Eagle One. Meguiar's NXT Generation and Final Inspection are also good ones to use, I have a bottle of Final Inspection in my kit.