Darkpaw

Where did you mount your HID ballasts?

Would it be possible to get a list of TSBs that relate to the radio? And any that could still apply for a 2014 model?

Cool, thanks. It's weird how each pin is there twice...once with the wire gauge and then with .80 or .50.

Looks incredible.

What size tires are on them?

This year has been the "wonky weather winter". Was high-60 degrees here at the end of last week, then it dropped to 30 (everything that melted froze again) and tomorrow it's back into the high 60s. ?

Keep in mind that voltage doesn't matter, it's current. An 18 AWG wire is rated for 16 Amps continuous, or about 288 Watts. At 80% load (the industry standard), it can handle a draw of 230W and stay within the safe zone. Even at 24kV, if the draw to do so is only a couple milliAmps, it would be within the safe range. Think of it like a TASER, which fires at 50kV then drops to operating range for pulses at 5kV, all off the equivalent of a standard 9V battery, because it only draws a couple microAmps of current. You've made me curious, though, so I just ordered a pair of 9006 "extender" cables off EBay, so I can cut one without damaging any factory or HID wiring and drop an ammeter on it to see exactly how much it is drawing when it turns on. Will likely be a couple weeks before I can get results on this (assuming it ships to me early this week)....I'll keep this thread in the "I'll get back to you" list, and will post an update on it as soon as I have further information. Reference: https://www.eol.ucar.edu/rtf/facilities/isff/LOCAL_access_only/Wire_Size.htm

[...]If they are, you press the center pin IN to the clip past the head and it will 'click' into place, releasing tension on the ears that hold the clip in place - you can then simply remove the clip by carefully twisting the head while pulling it back. [...] Nope, it's the opposite. You need to pry the middle part OUT with a flat-head screwdriver. You may find it easier but kind of alternating from one side of the pin to the other. It sucks, but that's the only way to get them out. Be careful when doing the ones on the edge of the bumper cover, as I made a small mark in mine when pulling the pins yesterday (due to carelessness in watching where the screwdriver was when moving it). Ugh...brand new vehicle. In reference to the other part about the cable, nothing to be careful about...pulling the top cable disconnects it, period. I've taken dozens of pictures of my "gutting" while modding this weekend, and will post pics on it hopefully by Wednesday (if I can get it completed by then). The negative is a single cable, from the strut tower directly to the battery. Disconnecting this at the strut tower disconnects the battery. The positive is a single cable that goes to the PDU in the engine bay. There is also a temperature sensor on the negative side of the battery, you'll need to disconnect this and remove it if you ever replace the battery. I had to pull the battery because I installed a "battery warmer" (basically, an electric blanket for a car battery), because it REALLY helps when doing starts when it's down below -20. It took me probably over an hour to get that whole thing out...what an awful job that was. On the plus side, the battery is really secured in there quite strongly (huge piece of steel holding the top down, with a plastic part for what is probably anti-vibration under it).

So I have most of the interior gutted, all the wires run, and am about to start cutting the amp wires and naturally, I hit a major snag. The wiring diagrams I have on the Alpine unit were wrong. The diagrams I had were for a 14 and 20 pin connectors, and on the Journey (and apparently Ram and Jeep?) it's 16 and 22 pins. Doing searches online, I have now come across at least four different versions of these pinouts, all from supposedly the same year. Only one of them can be right. Does anybody have access to the pinouts of the C1 and C2 connectors on the 2014 Alpine amps in the DJ? If not from a dealership, then maybe somebody here has an account with AllData? I'd just throw in the towel and buy a subscription on AllData myself, but the newest year they have on there for the DJ is 2012 because of Dodge's new release rules on documentation. It's possible a 2012 would be the same, but I'd like to give it a day to see if anyone can provide the info for me (and save me $25). Anyone.....pllllleeeeeaaaaasssseeeee...

The bulbs have the same draw as stock (55w). They may spike briefly (milliseconds) but the warmup time shouldn't take any more power than when at full temp. Same concept as sodium/mercury vapor. They take a while to get to temp and full output, but aren't drawing more power to get there. Some OEM applications may run them at higher current to get the bulbs to operating temp faster, but this isn't necessary. I definitely will post pics once I get them in. Looks like they won't make it here before the weekend (bummer). He recommended not going above 35w on the fogs, it would definitely melt the housing. I see somebody here recently did a 3000k update on their fogs, but is running at 55w. I don't think that's a good idea.

Interesting. So this is just being used for sub-output, I take it? Because it looks like all other wires stay in place to factory speakers.

Mine already has LEDs in the door lights, so I probably won't change them. But if they're anything like what I had in my Charger (also CANBUS) it didn't require "CANBUS-specific" bulbs. I replaced mine in the Charger with blue LEDs from superbrightleds.com Still considering replacing the stock bulbs on the tailgate (the only bulbs inside the vehicle that aren't LEDs! - why leave those ones out?!). The stock bulbs are rather bright, but they might look nicer if they were LEDs to match everything else.

Please do. I ordered two sets of HIDs today from "Absolute HID", that the sales (who is also a technician) guaranteed are plug-and-play. The guy I talked to was very knowledgeable about it, wattages and temperatures and so on. Ordered a set of 6000k 55w CANBUS for the low beams (which should be here in time for "next weekend's modfest") and a set of 3400k 35w (he said NO HIGHER than 35w on the fogs!) CANBUS for the fog lights. Sadly, the yellow (can't wait to see these) fogs are on backorder, but he will ship them free to me when they arrive. Lifetime warranty, and Philips bulbs...no cheap no-name crap. The whole shebang cost me over $300, but the stock bulbs on the DJ are just AWFUL. At least they are in the blacktop setup...maybe the dark housing reduces the intensity a bit, but they are just awful. The HIDs will be a welcome upgrade. We get TONS of fog around here and the stock driving lights (not really "fog" lights) are the wrong color...white light reflects off fog, yellow doesn't. He said "the yellow lights are popular because they look cool", but I just want better visibility. The mod list grows. My wife is going to be so pissed off....

That looks like an airbag sensor. The tow wiring harness shouldn't have anything on it other than the dummy plug to hold it.

I'm fairly confident the low-beam housings (though not "projector") are still designed for both formats, since they have the blocker in front of the bulb which focuses the beam against the reflector only (to reduce the blinding-effect of HID direct onto you). Just wasn't sure of the wattage, as I want to be sure not to damage the housing. Thanks for clarifying.

Don't know about a Journey, but in the Charger (I assume it would be the same) it requires an upgrade to the source unit in the dash and you need to upgrade your antenna, to get NAV. Most people would probably find it cheaper to do an after-market layout. The backup camera has a lot of labor on the Journey because you pretty much have to gut the interior to do it. The seats and carpet have to come up, and a good portion of the paneling. It's a multi-hour job.

It seems to be an odd CANBUS issue. I've had this happen in my van a couple times. I've also had it be at like 25% volume (so full blast is barely audible). It is very rare that it happens, but it does happen. Perhaps there's a software patch for it?

Is it really worth it, for 8hp, and not being configurable at all? This is nothing compared to the DS tuners, or even their MaxEnergy tuners (which I used on my Avenger R/T, because of DS not releasing one until just a couple weeks ago for the Avengers).

Different intake manifold. hp is different on the Challenger because of true dual exhaust.

You can't do that. It won't program.

In what way? What are you trying to do?

Here's the video of the RTA: http://youtu.be/OYSHOV6q7po Here's the video of the sweep: http://youtu.be/duunKxWw-zA (warning: minor foul language on the RTA analysis - yep, it was that bad, totally threw me)

As you can probably tell, I'm very partial to Audio Control signal processors. I actually did the baseline RTA and sine sweep last night. I'm going to put it on YouTube tonight and post the links to them. Should have them up shortly.

The crossovers and tweeters were from two different Rockford sets I bought back in the 1990s (back when Rockford made good gear), as are a pair of 12" Power-series DVCs (1 gets used, and 1 is kept as a spare in case I blow the other one). Amps and signal processors I usually start over with on every install, as each can vary so much, but many parts get pulled and shelved when not going into a current layout. The equipment I have ready to go into my Journey (this may change, depending on how I like the sound of it) is this: - Audio Control LCQ-1 line-output converter and EQ - Audio Control Matrix line driver - Audio Control EQL Equalizer (pending, see below) - Soundstream Reference series REF5.1000 amplifier - stock woofers in the front doors - stock speakers in the dash as mids - Rockford Fanatic-Q tweeters on dash corners (location will take time to figure out) - Rockford Fanatic-X 2-way crossovers - Rockford Power-series RFR2212 DVC sub in a box I built myself I think that's it for the mains. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to do the rear door speakers yet or not, but if I do they'll also get: - Audio Control LC2i line-output converter (currently being used on my van, but I'll pull that out of the van and replace it with an Audio Control Epicenter-plus) - Audio Control Overdrive - Audio Control EQL (if not used on the mains) - JL Audio A2250 amplifier I have no idea what the total cost of this is, as I've just bought and changed so many parts over the years. The only thing I "just" bought new was the Soundstream amp, as I was looking for a single 5-channel amp with high sound quality stats (S/N ratio over 100, THD 0.02%, frequency range 15Hz-50KHz, ultra-stable to 1-ohm, and a damping factor off the charts) to run the front mains and the sub. Two channels go to the doors, two go to the 2-way crossover, sub has its own output and remote control for gain. The LCQ-1 also has a remote level control, which will be used on the door speakers. I haven't figured out where to put the two remote knobs yet. The install is going to take a lot of planning before I get into it...I sure hope I only have to do it once. Edit: Sorry, it's an EQL, not an EQT. I was trying to find a pair of EQTs, but they are hard to find now.

In fact, unless they changed their policy recently, Chrysler/Dodge won't even release the data for a manual now (even to AllData.com) until the vehicle is a couple years old (close to or out of standard warranty). So manuals for 2014s won't be available for a while yet. The last paper manual set I had was for my 2008 Dodge Avenger R/T. It was 6 books at probably 4" thich each (covers all models, globally). Very hard to read compared to the older format of the manuals. I haven't seen any of the recent ones, because 2012s were just released.