Locosiete

Watch a video some time back about this problem specially on the Journey. The problem was the brake lines were compressing and not allowing the air to fully bleed out. Not saying that is your problem but something to consider

Always wondered if those devices actually help or it is just some snake oil

Lol I've modified my Journey to the point nobody would buy it and if they did want to doubt they would offer much 🤣🤣

Mehhh! That was only like 4 summers ago 🤣🤣🤣

Hmmm... I'm curious if i left mine on. I have 2 runs of 1/0 power wire from alternator. Been a few years since I did it and can't remember if I replaced or not

Well in that case you may possibly havr a bad connection on the battery sensor wiring. Any resistance in the wire can give false readings your voltage is dropping

Something like this can help https://a.co/d/fqmCoI9

My best guess is your alternator is going out. Voltage only has to drop for 1 second to get that error to pop up. So if the alternator is randomly dropping Voltage that will cause your error. Is the alternator clean or covered in oil? Oil on an alternator can cause them to burn out Buy a cheap volt meter you can plug into cigarette lighter. And while driving around see if voltage is solid or fluctuate allot. At idle should be around 13.5 to 14 v. Driving should stay closer to 14 and not change too much

The only time I get the battery saver alert is if I'm playing stereo full tilt for a couple minutes and voltage is dippin into the 10 volt range. Only time I go that hard is when doing a demo or competition

Do you get the battery saver warning immediately when starting car or after driving for some time or is there anything that triggers it?

Well, in accordance with Texas Law I had to add something Texas to my car. Anyone that's ever been to Texas will get that joke lol. Added this sign to cover the air manifold since it's nothing special to look at. BUT may even move the sign again

I was gonna say check and clean the connection at the connector or terminals. Over the years I've had little gremlins pop up only to find a small amount of corrosion at the plug creating some resistance. Not enough to cause the car to not run but enough to give me hours of headaches chasing wires and connections. On my 13 I was getting a random misfire on #1 plug whenever I ran the system full tilt, mine stereo is a smidgen upgraded lol, checked and clean the grounds on the strut tower and hasn't happened since

Have you checked with a multi meter or any gauge what your voltage is. Could be a bad alternator

As mentioned start with those steps. Could be as simple as need to clean battery connections, but odds are that may have killed battery, or the alternator went bad. Start with the easy thing like check connections and then on from there.

I recall a thread awhile ago that was talking about cleaning the ground and upgrading them. Worth checking and cleaning connections

I can only assume the crank position sensor is correct since each time John/Horace said to check that the poster never followed up. My only question is. Does it die instantly as you press horn or with a couple seconds. Also how often are you using your horn? Maybe the car gods are telling you to calm down 🤣🤣🤣

I'm not an expert but pretty sure that would not end well for your electrical system if you tried that

True but most cars won't run unless you have a battery connected even though the alternator is providing enough voltage

I'd try to find a wiring schematic, if it already has power from a relay then you could splice in a toggle switch to the remote connection. Or you could use the remote wire from the stereo to turn on relay so inverter only comes on with stereo so never have to worry about turning it off and draining your battery

Well funny turn of events this year. I already have remote start from my aftermarket alarm but never use it, or even remembered i had it lol, but this last winter we had a couple days it dipped into freezing. As we were walking to the car from the movie theater one night i remembered i had it. Needless to say it was nice to get into a toasty warm car from that cold. Since then this summer i have used it allot more. I set it to max AC before i turn the car off. That way i can remote start it before we leave the store or whatever and car is nice and cool when I get in it. This summer was pretty toasty so definitely appreciate it more. My aftermarket alarm has up to 3000 ft range as long if there isn't too many obstacles. I usually only use it when I'm within a couple hundred feet max. I feel like going that far you might as well do the alignment yourself. Granted a shop with a computer will can be much more accurate but i get the feeling you're not the type of guy that would just kind of do right lol I'm no alignment expert by any means, i myself only recently started doing it on my cadillac since nobody wants to touch the alignment since its a modified suspension on air bags. It's not a perfect alignment but it works good enough for what i need.

If I had to guess it has a bad ground wire or positive. If there is corrosion then it's not getting the full current. Think of electricity like water. If you clog up the end of a garden hose some water may come out but not enough to fill the container you need. I'd recommend investing in a multi meter. Even a cheap one can tell you allot, harbor freight sells one for $7.

The brake pedal is not looking up, the brake booster doesn't have any pressure to assist you pushing the pedal. You only need to push the pedal in a hair. Hold the push button in and pressure hard on brake pedal. Again you only have to push it in a hair and as long as your battery is good it will start like normal and the pedal will almost instantly feel normal. Mine does this once in awhile. I'm sure there is probably a fix for it but it's never been a problem for me As far as a fix could be as easy as replacing any cracked vacuum lines or flushing brake fluid

I had previously installed a backup camera in-between the license plate lights. Worked fine for backing up but rather see behind me in general. I tucked the wire between the Headliner and door seal and ran it down the a-pillar. Hardest part was trying to fish the wire in the rubber grommet at the rear gate. At the end made a small hole at base of grommet and wire is outside the rubber sleeve I should add the new camera had different plug so had to run wire again. Just taped new end to old and used it to fish it threw

Never really felt like the rear window had great visibility and then after adding a small sound system it reduced the view slightly more. Since i have a small obstruction blocking my view out the rear window thought why not remove the rear wiper and put in a camera. Process was pretty easy for the most part. Removed the 2 screws and popped the clips out. By no surprise the rear wiper motor screws holding it together were loose from a small vibration i have 😆 😅 😂 Used cut the rear wiper grommet out for camera and mounted it upside down to reduce angle of camera. While not a perfect solution it does allow me to see much better when backing up since rear view mirror is not very helpful anymore 😆 😅 😀 😄

For me the trick was turning off all heating or air before turning off the car. Not sure why but if i keft it on when car was shut off it would have a mind of it's own. But to be fair mine has a slight vibration coming from the rear that may have damaged something 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣