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I'm certainly hoping so... My guys wanted to try it on mine tomorrow, but, we're expecting 6-18" of snow starting this evening through tomorrow (3/5 -6), so, I'm going to take it up on Thursday (3/7) after we get plowed out of the snow. My Journey is in the same boat; listed on window sticker, not on build sheet, that we can see (but, it may be part and parcel of one of the "packages"). I've got my fingers crossed, and I'll keep the forum posted after I go up on Thursday. Hopefully, it is a software issue on the 8.4N that is not allowing / displaying the information from a module that already exists as was the case for ZMAN...

Ditto on the "Thanks"!

Thanks Chris. I am aware that there were a fair number of changes to the Journey from the '09-'10 to the '11-'13 model lines, and not all of them cosmetic (brakes for one), and didn't know whether the "recommendations" for the relatively few tires in that size had changed for the newer models based on a possible revision to the AWD system.

Chris, can we assume that the TSB also applies to the 2012 and 2013 model years, or was there a modification made to the AWD system to make it a bit more "forgiving" in the range of tires that one may choose as replacements; I realize that a change of all four should be made to ensure they are roughly the same size, but, a selection of two brands is a bit "limiting"...

I wanted the Copper, but, the '13 R/Ts have a limited color choice and Copper isn't on the list. I've had black cars (too hot), I've got a white RAM 2500 CTD LongHorn, I've had silver and I won't own a red car (never have, never will) and the wife didn't like the blue, so Storm Gray it is! I, actually like the Storm Gray now that I've got it. In bright sunlight it is almost a dark silver and in the shade or night time it is a very sedate gray. As for the interior? With the R/T line, you have a choice of Black on Black or Black on Black, so, I chose the Black on Black interior :shades: Would have liked to get something that wouldn't be so hot in the summer, but, it is what it is...

Most tire monitoring systems respond to "underpressure" at around 10% of nominal (target) pressure. For a car that is supposed to be aired to 36 psi, then the TPMS, should, start warning you when the monitor is seeing < or = to 32 psi at the tire. Bear in mind that not all tire gauges are accurate to more than + or - 10% for the low cost variety (sliding vane style) and the digitals, depending on what you spent on it may only be accurate to + or - 3% of the reading. FWIW, whenever I get a new car, I start "shopping" for tire gauges that match the TPMS reading... Over the years I've accumulated a lot of tire gauges and I've always got one that matches now, but, before my collection, I'd just start buying "mid price range" digital gauges until I found one that matched what the TPMS was reporting and that's the one that stays in the car for "on the road" fills. In my shop, I've got a professional digital tire gauge/filler unit that is accurate to .1% and that is the one I use to do major service to the tires on all of my vehicles. It is too large and expensive though to carry one in each vehicle I own. The recommended 36 psi cold inflation will always go higher after you've driven for a few minutes. The inflation figure on the door frame is for "cold" inflation; after the car has sat for a minimum of 3 hours with the tires out of direct sun exposure. Whatever the pressure "warms" to after you start driving is fine; on a really hot day, they may, indeed, "inflate" to 40 psi or more and that, for the running speed and ambient temperature, is where they should be. Don't stop and let air out of the tires to get them back down to 36 psi...you'll be way too low for after the car's tires have cooled down. As for having readings that are a mixture of metric and imperial/SAE...don't think it can be done. The convertor in the CANBus is, to my knowledge, an either / or device. You'll get all metric or you'll get all Imperial/SAE readings, no way to get a mix; you have one chip that does the conversions, all the conversions and it does it on the fly with the various inputs, which, are not metric or SAE to begin with, but, electrical pulses which are generated by optical isolators or electro-mechanical generators and pickups.

They seem to have "fixed" most of the annoyances/problems that are in this thread in the 2013's...at least in the R/T. The heat for the driver's seat and steering wheel are programmable to come on with remote start when the ambient temperature is below a threshold (don't remember what it is 40 degrees?), though my wife wishes there was a setting to have the passenger side to come on also (she's jealous; if I use remote start to warm the car when we're going somewhere, my seat is warm while hers is cold ). The cup holders are fine, at least for us. No issues with the brakes; useage, longevity (though the car is still really new) or brake dust and it has the larger disc and caliper in the front. Body is tight, no rattles. Fuel mileage has been great, especially after a Hemi Jeep Commander; we're averaging 20 mpg in mixed driving and we got 28 mpg on the highway recently going down to MD and that's with the 3.6 Pentastar with the 6 speed auto and AWD. All in all, we're pleased with the car, both mechanically and ergonomically. The power seat and the tilt/telescoping steering wheel allow both of us a comfortable driving position and the R/T's suspension, while taught and flat cornering is very supple when encountering potholes and pavement seams. The AWD has proven to be almost as good as the full-time 4WD of the Jeep Commander the Journey replaced. I do, however, have a few "peeves" with the car. 1) DRLs - why do they make it so difficult to get them activated? We got them activated, but, sheesh, what a lot of trouble when the software and hardware is already installed... 2) Why, when you order a car with the roof rail and trailer tow package "options", do you then have to order, seperately, and at additional cost, the cross bars for the roof rails and the trailer hitch for the "trailer tow package"? If I order those options, it is apparent that I want to put things on the roof and tow something or I wouldn't have ordered and paid for the ability. Come on Dodge; if you have to charge more, then charge more, but, if you are going to offer an option, make it a complete option and install the pieces (what's with the trailer 4 pin connector in a bag tossed in the back?) 3) This "peeve" applies to all the newer cars; why can't I get "Service Manuals" for these vehicles? They are obviously available, at least electronically, as the dealerships have to have access to that information; make the CD or DVD's available to the public. You want to charge me a couple of hundred dollars for the information? So be it, but, at least give me the option of buying them if I want to... If something comes loose or starts to rattle, I can tighten it or re-assemble it, but, it helps to know how it is supposed to go together and what, if any, torque values are necessary. You can't get that out of the owner's manual. 4) The only "ergonomic" problem I've encountered thus far is getting in and out of the car; why are the front seat grab handles located in the roof towards the seat back? Useless for getting in and out. The grab handles for the car should be on the front A pillars where they could provide for some leverage and torque to get out - that's a long leg reach to the ground for us shorter folks (I'm 5' 5" and the wife is 5' even). Come spring, I'm going to see if I can find a suitable anchoring point on the A pillars to mount my own. That's it. Still new, but, the only problem, thus far is the compas isn't displaying in the EVIC and I'll take it up to the dealer next week to let them investigate as to why... It is apparent from this thread that MOPAR had some growing problems with the early Journeys, that's a shame, but, at least to my experience, they made the appropriate changes and I'm very satisfied with our R/T's quality, features and price.

Done

I just looked at my window sticker... My 2013 R/T is supposed to have "Trip Computer with Temperature and Compass". I spent, as I mentioned in another post above, some time going through every menu item in both the EVIC and the UConnect systems and can find no "switch" to turn it on or off. The EVIC has a blank spot, on the top, left hand side, where, if memory serves me, the compass heading should be. I called my dealer and they said that "yep, it is supposed to have the compass and that's where it should be...bring it up Tuesday and we'll try to figure out what's going on..." So, it isn't based solely on trim level and whether you have the NAV system or not, it should have the compass with the "Trip Computer with Temperature and Compass" if that is listed with your build. It doesn't make a huge difference to me as the NAV system has pretty much the same information and I have a good sense of direction, however, my wife doesn't and she uses that information to determine her general direction and where the "west side of town is" when she's out and about. On top of that, I paid for it, it (the window sticker and sales brochures) lists it and as such, should have it. We'll see next Tuesday what's going on. If there is a missing module, Dodge should foot the bill for both its purchase and installation since I've already paid for it in the purchase price of the car. :-)

My 2013 R/T doesn't have the compass in the EVIC if that is where you are looking for it. My '08 Commander and my '11 RAM 2500 have it in the EVIC, but, that was the RER My Gig systems. I vaguely remember a 2012 R/T that I test drove did display a heading the EVIC, however, that particular R/T didn't have NAV in it and it is entirely possible I may be mistaken about that. Is it possible that the units without NAV have a compass in the EVIC? The NAV unit displays the compass heading when showing the map and the "more" data setting is on... I've gone all through the 8.4N's software and there is no "Clock/Compass" setting or plain "Compass" setting. None of the other "More" settings has anything to do with a compass and I couldn't find anything in the navigation software that would display one either, with the exception of the "more" setting for the map data. I haven't poured through all the manuals yet, but, "eyes on" with all the software in the 8.4N hasn't revealed a soft switch to turn one on or off, nor were there any settings in the EVIC that I could find that would display a compass heading.

The clad wheels I had on my '08 Jeep Commander looked showroom new 5 years after being through almost everything you can imagine; I used it for towing my travel trailer and some off-roading, hey, its a "Jeep thing" you know ;-) I never had any regrets in owning them. Even brake dust cleaned right off and that was after it had been baked on by 6 months of traveling around the country.

I know what you mean...there was a time when that sort of thing "bugged the daylights" out of me, too, and if it bugged me enough, no amount of time or money would prevent me from doing something about it. I guess it is the "age" thing now. I like for my stuff to look good, even new, but, I also realize that the car is a car; a means of transportation and a "tool" for doing it. I buy vehicles to use, and use them I do, and I accept normal wear and tear as part of the "fee" for that use...I don't worry about the little things much any more. I dented the tailgate on my truck; the wife was a little surprised at my lack of "attitude" and said as much. I just looked at her and said; "Its a truck. A truck gets used like a truck and gets some "character" along the way." It was just a little dent (a ding in the sharp crease at the top of the tailgate, and, to be honest, I don't even "see" it anymore unless I'm washing or waxing it. Yep, if you have the resources availble (both time, money and a source of repair) then there are always alternatives to replacing. I think far too much "replacing" goes on and not enough "repair"; both cars and appliances. Remember the days of the Mom & Pop "Fix-It" stores? I guess I'm dating myself now, but, I vote "repair" over "replace" any time.

You can also have the clad wheels "repaired"...a friend runs an auto body shop...has "chrome" powder coat that sets up just like metal chrome (that may well be what the clad's coating is). He "rechromed" some trim on my 1976 Eldorado with it. You can't tell it is powder coated. The reason I'm guessing that the cladding is some sort of powder coating is that the ones on my Jeep never corroded, never stained and never etched. I've never seen real chrome that inert. Almost anything can be repaired if you throw enough money at it...for $150, I'd be driving around with a ding or scrape on my wheel and spend the money elsewhere. We live out in the boonies and the nearest town where I might find such a service is several hours, one way, in travel time. For the $150 and the time and money spent to get there, I'd be driving the vehicle with a ding in it as long it was still true, held air and was mechanically sound. On the Journey, I'd probably be without the truck while it was being repaired; that spare donut wheel is for emergency use (different diameter and it would play havoc with AWD over any length of time). I guess I'm not very vain about my wheels...not even on my '76 Eldorado. The hub caps on it are pretty beat up (Eldorados are notorious for throwing hub caps), but, at least I've still got 4 of the stock SS wheel covers painted proper for the car; better than most Eldorado's out there. They, too, can be repaired...$300 per hub cap (SS is a bear to work with). Not worth the investment to me as it isn't a "show" car; just a well kept antique, driven a couple of times a year and in the Fall Foliage Festival to haul the "princesses" in the parade (I have the parade boot and the yound ladies look cute sitting up there waving).

I had chrome clad wheels on my '08 Jeep Commander... Some of the best wheels I've ever owned. Held up well, even off-roading, never an issue with brake dust etching the finish and no matter what I went through, they easily cleaned up good as new. With what I've seen brake dust do to coated aluminum wheels, I'd be OK with chrome clads. My '13 R/T came with the optional styled aluminum wheels as part of the R/T package, but, I wouldn't have batted an eyelash if it had been standard with the clad wheels. As long as the cladding isn't broken all the way through, I'd just live with it. If you curb check an aluminum wheel, you'd be in the same boat; not much you can do with a curb check no matter what the wheel is made of.

One thing that will need addressing, early on, is where the images will be hosted. If a "how to" section is to contain images as a basis for how to accomplish something, then those images should be hosted on this site and not one of the "free" hosting sites (Photobucket, Flickr, etc). It won't do any good to have a help based section that is composed of images that have been deleted from a public hosting site because the original poster closed his account, re-arranged his files, re-named his files, etc. If the files (image) are going to be hosted by this site, then you run up against server space, storage caps and ultimately, cost. Not unsurmountable, but, something that needs to be considered while in the planning stage... The "How To" idea is commendable, though, as MOPAR is no longer producing service manuals for their vehicles and making them available to the general public....I would be happy if I could even get them on CD/DVD, but, can't get an answer out of the Tech Authority Group as to whether they will ever be available to the general public. I got a printed set for my '08 Jeep Commander, but, not any of my vehicles since then, so, a "How To" area would be a boon to those Journey owner's that are capable of doing some maintenance and repairs if there are some visual aids to get through the rough spots.

I can agree with the "stepping out" issue. We had a Jeep Commander (gone for the Journey) and have a RAM 2500 HD and both of them, despite being higher off the ground are easier to get into and out of. After two days we finally realized what was wrong...the Journey's grab handle (above the door) is in the wrong spot. The Jeep and RAM have the grab handle on the windshield pillar; a much easier spot to grab with better leverage and control for getting in and out compared to the useless grab handle above your head. You can do pull ups with it, but, it does absolutely no good for entry and exit from the vehicle being above and behind your head... DodgeCares: Maybe the design engineers could consider a change for next year, I know I'm going to look into adding something aftermarket to the pillar for easing entry and exit when the weather warms up a bit. I do, however, have the cleanest rocker panels in the parking lot when we go shopping though...

You should be OK... I don't think the carrier really has all that much to do with the compatibility. Unlike TracFone that has added proprietary software on their phones, I don't think the Bell Mobility adds anything to drastically change the iPhone 5's operating software. I'd certainly give it a go...worse case scenario is that you have the same problem I do; phone pairs and everything except the phonebook works as it should.

It is possible that they did a rewrite of the software for the 8.4N system. It says it has downloaded the phonebook on the screen during the pairing, but, when you check, there's nothing there...in fact, the tab for the phonebook is grayed out and all it does is "boink" at you when you touch it. The setup process thinks it is loading it, but, the software doesn't do anything about enabling it. The UConnect folks said, basically, "that's too bad...". One thing interesting I found out when dealing with the UConnect folks...evidently the MyGig units actually store the phone book on the hard drive (MyGig has a 30GB hard drive), in fact, with no phone paired, I can still view my phone book, while the 8.4N units have no memory at all...what the display shows is a download of the phone's contact list that is only held as long as the car is running; each time you start the car and the phone pairs, it copies the phonebook all over again. Found that rather odd, but, it saves them having to install an SSD or a hard drive for the units. The music also works the same way...on my Jeep and the RAM 2500, the music, once copied from a memory stick, is stored on the hard drive until you delete it; no need to leave in the car or have a dedicated memory stick in order to play the music, unlike the Journey where it will play ripped CDs as long the USB drive (or SD card) is present. Pull it out and your music disappears. I think I like the MyGig system better...but, I suppose the 30 GB hard drive introduces some complexity and longevity issues. I haven't looked at the price break, but, I paid a good bit more for the Jeep Commander and the RAM 2500 HD LongHorn than I did the Journey, even the R/T version...that may explain the "high end" RER unit in those vehicles.

I tried the same thing (unpaired and re-paired the phone(s), the wife has the same phone). It said it was downloading the phonebook, but, no phone book was shown on the screen any of the times that I attempted the pairing... It pairs and I can dial from the screen, but, no phone books or contacts are available from the UConnect system. I even contacted the UConnect Support Team; no luck. They have evidently assumed that everyone owns a smart phone and that's all they planned for. Our phones pair OK, so we can receive a call, and with the RER MyGig system they download the phonebook just fine...just won't work with the Garmin 8.4N system used in the Journey. It is an annoyance for the most part as we don't use our cell phones except for emergencies (you have to go 8 miles away from our house to get even a weak signal) or when traveling and we don't use the Journey for traveling; that's what we have the RAM 2500 LongHorn for and it has the MyGig system which works perfectly with our phones. Now I know...next car I get, look for one with the MyGig system and not the Garmin system.

I just did a quick "compatibility" test at the bluetooth/uconnect site for pairing: http://chrysler.servigistics.com/query.action?brand=Dodge&country=US&region=NAFTA&request_locale=en It lists the iPhone 5 as compatible and has pairing directions. Unfortunately for me, I use TracFone and have a "not quite smart" phone (an LG 800). It pairs, but, it won't allow use of the phone book. All my other MOPARs had/have the MyGig system and they worked perfectly with my TracFone. Got the Journey and it won't work. Oh well. I didn't buy the car for the UConnect system anyway, but, you would think that it would work with more than a handful of the latest smart phones; there are a lot of us out there that don't want the complexity of a smart phone, nor the expense, but, MOPAR doesn't seem to think that we're (non-smartphone owners) not too important. At least it pairs and if I get a call, I can answer, but, to make a call, I've either got to remember the number so that I can "voice" it while driving or I have to pull over and use my phone to look up the number in the contacts or just use the phone to make the call. Not very convenient... Maybe the UConnect folks or LG will come up with software updates to expand the phone compatibility to more types of phones.

My 2013 R/T, manufactured in November of 2012 uses the older OAT antifreeze and is pink in color (looks almost like cloudy automatic transmission fluid). The new MOPAR OAT antifreeze is dark purple in color (mine was evidently manufactured before the "switch" in colors). Don't panic if yours (in a 2013) is a dark color; it is probably just the new formulation (and color) of the antifreeze. It used to be that you could determine the type of antifreeze from the color...that doesn't hold true any longer. Depending on the manufacturer, OAT antifreeze can be orange, green, pink, red and now blue/purple. Just to keep us guessing what is actually in there... It used to be that you could just buy antifreeze (in my younger days), then you had to buy either green or orange, depending on the application. Now, you can't base anything on the color; you have to know the formulation (IAT, HOAT or OAT) and which applies to your particular vehicle. Really becomes a "pain" when I've got 2 ATVs, 2 tractors and 4 cars (1976, 1989, 2011, and 2013) and they cover all the different formulations; I have to check the owner's manual for each whenever I have to add antifreeze because I can't remember which takes what and I can't go by the color any more...

Can't answer your question, technically, for certain, but, it appears that the '09 and '10s did not come from the factory with everything in place, with the exception of the LMK option code, in order for the DRLs to be enabled. I don't have any technical knowledge about it, just anecdotal evidence from this thread, that only has posts from those of us with 2011 and newer Journey's being able to get them turned on, after getting the LMK added to our VIN; no additional hardware needed. My best guess is that in 2011, the control was passed from hardware relays to software switching and power control in a software change to the Canbus. Maybe Chrysler Cares can answer better, but, evidently, the '11-'13 models have all the necessary hardware, and even the software, to have the DRLs, they just lack the option code LMK to have them actually work. He may be able to point you in the direction necessary to get them to work. I remember, on my 1996 Grand Caravan that all I did to get that vehicle's DRLs to light up (the turn signals on bright) was to buy the relay (a Canadian standard part at the time) and plug it in. Perhaps the '09 and '10 Journeys were like that. If that is the case, I remember that the dealership didn't have a listing for the relay's part number; they were looking at a US parts list, but, upon looking at a Canadian part list, the part number was listed and they ordered me one. I received the relay and plugged it in and the DRLs were lit...nothing else needed, just the Canadian relay.

Yep, below... I was typing slower than I was thinking. The wife was patiently (well, almost patiently) waiting for me at the door to run into town while I was typing. Turn signal above, high beam below; high beam is DRL and goes out when the turn signal above goes on.

It is the high beam lights that illuminate. The Jeep Commander that I had was at 50% power, that's what I was told anyway when we figured out how to get them lit (it was a struggle with it, too. Had to have Jeep switched to Canada, enable the DRLs, then switch it back to US). In comparison to the Jeep's high beam DRLs, then I would have to say that the Journey's high beams are only about 25-30% power. They are lit and quite noticeable, but, appear only half as bright as the Jeep's...my wife followed me up to the dealer once and the Jeep was "borderline" annoying to me with her following within a couple of car lenths. When we got the Journey's lit, they were fairly bright, but, nowhere near an "annoying" bright. The high beams on the Journey are directly above the turn signals, so, when you use the turn signal, the high beam directly above it turns off until the turn signal is cancelled so that the turn signal is more visible. A sweet system, and with the UConnect controller, if, for some reason, I don't want them on, a quick soft button on the screen turns them off. I still think that since the car is manufactured with all the hardware and controllers in place, Dodge should just enable them (in the US) by default and have the UConnect control set to "off" and let the user decide after delivery whether they want them on or not; it isn't like they are saving money by having US purchasers have to get the LMK code added to the VIN and then have the car flashed...it would be so much easier to just enable them when the car is built and have the UConnect set to "off". Let the consumer decide when and if to enable them via UConnect. Edit: Typing slower than the brain is thinking! Turn signals are above the high beams! Duh!!!