AstralRT

Any idea if the heater core lines can be reached from above without taking parts off the engine?  Its too cold to want to be crawling underneath the car now

8 hours ago, 2late4u said:

sorry for the poster that had problems with his 2012 journey altho that is some high mileage even for a 2012. i had a 2011 and traded it in with 70 k with no problems except with the smaller size brakes on it and the dealership took care of that, have had my 2014 and got 98 k on it now and had a oil sender unit went bad was covered under my max warranty at around 45 k and then had to pay for one wheel sensor that went out on it as the repair cost was under the ded on my warranty.some do have problems with their journey from what iv read but from my own experience they have been one of the most reliable cars iv owned in a long time.all vechiles have their own problems just look at the different ato blogs on the internet

206000 km (128000 miles) is not that high of mileage for a chain engine.  Part of the reason I gave it a shot. Also keep in mind my issues started as early as 80000 km (50000 miles) and major issues around 140000 km (87000 miles)

In my mind DJ stands for Dodge Junk now, especially when compared to the longevity I've received from my current and past Honda's for example.

Like I said before, enjoy the DJ while under warranty but ditch it before it's done to save on the headache it's guaranteed to cause. I prefer to keep cars long term so the quality of Chrysler has proven not meet my expectations. There is a reason they have such low resale value.

I expect to take some heat for this on this forum, however I have to base my opinion on my own experiences.

Do yourself a huge favor and put your money on a Toyota or Honda.  As Scotty would say "Chryslers are endless money pits" and based on my experience I have to agree.

Three of my Honda's have cost me a fraction of the maintenance that my Dodge as cost me, and I bought the thing brand new and it came direct from the factory with my name on the window sticker, no other drivers or even test drivers beyond the 12 km used in transporting the thing on/off the truck/train.

I've learned my lesson and rather spend more upfront on a reliable Toyota or Honda and have a solid vehicle for 10+ years than save on the purchase only to be spending through the nose on constant repairs.

To put it in context I have a 2003 CRV with 381000+ km, 2004 CRV with 235000+ km and 2006 civic with 130000+ km.  All only ever needing regular maintenance such as brakes and oil changes. (Thats approx. 746000 km without much worry or hassle)

My 2012 DJ R/T , on top of brakes and tires and other scheduled maintenance has needed a new cam shaft, lifters, viscous coupler, wheel hub, thermostat, blend door actuator, blue tooth unit, battery, rad fan, replacement of lock lug nuts because the lock key split in half due to dealer putting them on with their impact power tools and the factory tire wrench warpping because the lug nuts were put on so tight from dealer, and two lug nuts (so far) that have stripped their cheap chrome caps even after I put them on myself according to torque spec.  This DJ has now 206000+ km but problems started as early as 80,000 km.

I'm honestly at the point where I am giving this thing away to a family member that is in desperate need of a vehicle and I am washing my hands of it.  They have full disclosure of the history and are ok with it considering the vehicle is free for them    I suspect I'll still be pulled into working on it for them, but at least the worry and cost won't be mine and I'll keep driving my old Honda's worry free.

Bottom line: I feel betrayed by Fiat/Dodge and can't recommend them based on my experience.  If you do get one, keep it under warranty and dump it as soon as warranty is over.  Thats my honest opinion. 

I am having more issues with my 2012 R/T 3.6 AWD w/Tri-climate

Now that things are getting cold I've noticed that there is limited to no heat from front passenger side including front side defrost vent and very limited heat from driver side center vent.
There is heat from the driver side by the door and floor, rear vents and front side defrost vents but ONLY when coolant temp reaches above 90°C (194°F) , problem is when the colder temps below 0°C the coolant temp drops to low 80°C (176°F) when driving.

I suspect multiple problems, just looking to bounce this off the knowledgeable experienced folks on this forum.

For the passenger side I suspect a bad actuator door as the cold A/C was blowing perfectly fine during the summer.

For the temp dropping so low when driving I suspect a thermostat stuck open, however I never watched the coolant temp this closely before there was a problem so I'm not sure if dropping to low 80s is normal?

My coolant level is not low, in fact its a shade higher than normal.  I haven't checked the heater core lines, I'm not familiar with where they are located the DJ.  Are they only accessible from up top or can I get to them underneath? Are they very delicate to work with?

Would a clogged heater core cause these issues? Do you think I should flush the heater core? Is there something else that might be causing these symptoms that I haven't listed? I've heard the oil cooler could have impact on getting no heat too but not sure how, aren't they on different coolant systems?

I picked up a used Viscous at the wreckers for $20 CAD and 20 mins of personal labour.

I'll update once I get around to putting it on.

I realize a used one like this is a gamble, but compared to the cost of new, its worth a shot.

I need to replace the viscous coupler on my 2012 3.6 R/T Rallye AWD and I'm wondering if anyone has any photos, vids or diagrams showing what bolts/clamps I may encounter.

Looking at the viscous unit part diagram it appears there are only 4 bolts mounting the unit to the differential, but that isn't a repair manual diagram so I'm wondering if there are any clamps or hidden bolts the product diagram is not showing?

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-bdorc-rear-axle~68058066ab.html?Make=Dodge&Model=Journey&Year=2012&Submodel=&Filter=(E=ERB;T=DG2;M=R%2fT+AWD)

I'll be pulling a used one from a scrap yard so I will have a "practice" run before tackling it on my own but would like to go fully prepared with all the need tools.

Any help from anyone on this would be greatly appreciated.

On another note, I'll be trying to do this part swap myself. Does anyone have any diagrams/instructions I can review before I get started?

Would it be best to drop the entire differential and then remove the viscous unit?  I'll be pulling one off in the scrap yard (assuming I can find one there)

I'd hate to be part way through doing the job and run into a situation where I need a special tool or removal of other parts to access.

Looks like since I posted in May the price of this unit has just about doubled and I have yet to do the repair, I've just been driving my other car 
What would cause such a price hike?  Did demand go up? If demand is up does that mean these are faulty and there will be a recall?

8 minutes ago, mechanical-idiot said:

What is wrong with your engine?

P0306 misfire code last fall along with knocking.  Replaced cam shaft, 6 lifters and plugs.  Misfire resolved but knocking persisted.

This week P0305 misfire code, I'm worried I might need another big repair.  Combine that with a P06DD code that triggers when oil temp is below 70 degrees celsius, told I need a new oil pump because the sensor is built in, I'm not sure I even want to keep my R/T Rallye any longer.

Just now, mechanical-idiot said:

Our Viscous unit worked like a top when it was cold.  As soon as it started warming up, the clunking started.  Anywho...... I hope you have warranty because this is not a cheap fix.  I think it cost us about 1600 bucks Canadian to finally get it all debugged and fixed.  They have to replace some seals in addition to the unit and the labour was about 3 hours to replace the unit, I think.

 

Good luck.  Please let us know how you get along.

 

mechanical-idiot

 

 

Warranty is long gone, currently sitting at around 200K km.  I'll have my local guy do the work, it'll be cheaper than the dealership.  Looks like the part is going to run me around $500+ CAD plus labour to install

Not sure I want to take a chance on ebay or not.

On 2/16/2018 at 5:20 PM, mechanical-idiot said:

Hello everyone.  I hope you are all well.

 

So, yesterday a weird noise started when we were returning from a trip to another Canadian province.  A weird REAR CLUNKING sound started in the back when we were starting off from stops.  It does it on left or right turns.  I don't know if it does it on straight starts, but I think it does, but not always.  I can feel the clunk, if that makes sense.  It's as if someone is hitting the bottom of the floor near the back tires with a hammer.  It is a thud.

 

2012 Journey RT AWD

 

Any ideas?  I am really worried about it.

 

Thanks

 

mechanical-idiot

My 2012 has been doing this for the last 50K KMs or so.  The dealer couldn't find the issue and blamed it on uneven tire wear affecting the AWD, so I put on new tires from Costco.  Same problem.  I had my local mechanic check everything out and the checked out the differential and said the internals were good and did a fluid flush.  Same problem continued.  I was due for a transmission flush and was hopeful that would help, it didn't.  With the engine troubles I've been having with mine this issue kind of taken a back burner but I would like to get it fixed.  Thank you for sharing your experience and I'll definitely be taking a look at that next.

One thing I noticed because I've been driving it this way so long is that it seems to get worse in warmer weather and better in colder weather.  I rarely experience in the winter months and also leaving it parked for a while (weeks-months) seems to reduce the occurrence rate for the first little while after driving again.  Hopefully changing the part you mentioned will finally allow me to fix this for good.

On 12/15/2017 at 2:13 PM, VinnyL said:

Been having a problem with my 2014 Journey with the 3.6L V6 Pentastar engine. Check engine light came on, I plugged in my OBDII scanner and it came up with a P0302 code, Cylinder #2 Misfire. I made an appointment with the dealership and last week and they finally got back to me. He informed me that the camshaft and lifters needed to be replaced. One of the guys here at my work told me his son works as a mechanic for Dodge and he said he's been seeing that quite a bit. Luckily my powertrain warranty was still active and everything is covered. Get to pick up my mom van later today. Initially I thought the problem might've been similar to a recall for the 2011-2013 Journeys where the head was replaced on the engine but supposedly the number that's cast into the heads on the engine said otherwise. Hopefully this helps others out there. I was also in contact with the FCA due to this issue and maybe if this is an inherent problem that an investigation will start and (fingers crossed) there will possibly be a recall sometime down the road. Good luck everyone!!!

I had the same problem and fix for a P0306 code last fall with my 2012 3.6.  I was hoping it would fall under the TSB but a compression test from the dealership revealed I needed a new camshaft and lifters on front bank.  I was also due for plug replacement so that was done at the same time

This week I'm hit with a P0305 code and I'm worried I'm gonna need the same level of repairs on the back bank.  Last time it cost me $500 CAD just for diagnosis from the dealership.  I like to avoid that cost again if possible.  Not sure why they had to do two separate diagnosis last time, I was told it was due to the TSB and it not falling under that issue.

Anyone know of any videos showing how to replace the oil pump on a 3.6 AWD?

I'm getting the P06DD code.  Can that sensor be replaced or do I have to get a whole new pump?

I am way out of warranty with 6 years and 190K kms on it.

On 5/6/2018 at 7:20 PM, Joyce Dorris said:

I have a 2014 Dodge Journey SXT all-wheel drive and the engine light came on. I purchased a code reader FIXD and it came back with a code showing that I needed the oil pressure sensor unit replaced. I called the Dodge dealer and they quoted me $560 to repair it. I went on YouTube and found the site that shows how to replace that sensor. The Dodge dealer was going to charge me for removing the intake manifold which was it necessary. I went out and purchased the part and replaced it. Granted you have to have the right tools to do this and I happen to have them. I have the codes cleared and my rig is back up and running for less than $60. Buy in this code reader was well worth the money that I paid for it.

Would you happen to still have the link to that video?  Looks like I have the same problem and my dealer wants $900+tax CAD to replace the entire pump.

They are the same size, but are worn slightly differently

It is AWD and the rear diff was thoroughly checked.  The dual exhaust seems solid and not doing any excessive movement.

I was thinking about my tires though.  They are pretty bald right now and I'm waiting to get new winters.  Would oddly worn/bald tires affect these AWD systems enough to cause this weird behavior?

I replaced the filter with the flush

Sometimes its a very loud bang and like someone just rammed in the back of the Journey but without the actual inertia of being pushed forward.  If I slowly roll through the turn I can reduce or avoid the bang altogether.

I have had my mechanic comb through the rear end, change differential oil and inspect everything he can see and he was unable to find anything wrong that would cause this.
Also, it just so happened that I left my car at his shop a while before he checked it and he was unable to reproduce the issue, and sure enough it went days without the issue happening and I though the new oil fixed it.  It didn't.

I recently had my transmission flushed from the dealer and now have new fluid and filter and its still causing the problem.  I don't want to play dealer prices to have this diagnosed but I'm at a lose at this point.

My mechanic did say if I can reproduce it he would take a ride with me to understand what is happening.  I really should find time to go see him again.

Unfortunately for me my issue was not as described in the TSB and I was only getting 4% compression loss.  So I was on the hook for the diagnostic fee and had to pay another diagnostic fee to determine why my engine was knocking.

Turns out I had collapsed lifters and camshaft.  They put in 6 new lifters, a new camshaft, 6 new spark plugs and $1500.00 CAD later my engine is running normally again....well sort of.

It seems to knock for about 2-5 seconds on cold start up but quickly goes away.  Something I didn't notice before my engine troubles.  I know it revved higher on startup but the knock seems new.  It might just be paranoia that this point.  It idles a little rough when heated up and stays at 500 rpm and just 2 days after having the work done it through a P06DD code which went away a few hours later after I had no other choice but to drive it somewhere.

Dodge has me scheduled for another appointment next week to check out the rough idle and P06DD, hopefully nothing serious and nothing expensive.

Finally had time and called FCA Canada Customer Care to confirm the details on TSB 09-002-14

In Canada the warranty is extended to 120 months (10 years) and 240,000 km (Approx. 150,000 miles) and the fix will be done by the dealership under X56 Warranty Extension.

I was concerned they would limit Canada to 150,000 km as companies like to do with other warranty mileage when comparing USA to Canada.  I was pleased to see they did the right thing here.  I have requested a service appointment from a local dealership and hopefully fix my engine troubles.

TSB details in attached PDF
 

TSB_LC_0900214.pdf

I haven't had a chance to get back at it yet, thanks to life being so busy, but do you think its possible for the cap to be spinning but not coming off?

I had once come off before and when I tried to remove the base nut underneath it was ceased on so hard it stripped and I had a hell of a time with a stripped nut removal socket to get it out.
I really don't want that experience again 

Anyone have any trouble with stripped lugs nuts on the factory 19" rims?  A while back a cap slipped off of one and months later when I tried to pull the tire off to replace a wheel bearing it was a huge chore that cost me a lug nut and a stripped nut removal socket and the deep pockets in the rims for the nuts don't do any favors for access either.

Now on another wheel one of the caps on one of the nuts is stripping and not gripping at all.  I'm toying with a couple of options to have it removed, one of which is to try and pull the nut cap off before I mangle it too much and take my chances with the bare nut underneath.  I'm not sure if the cap is turning loosely over the nut underneath or if its simply rounding out.  I don't care too much for the lugs, just want to minimize rim damage as much as possible.

Any advice on how I should proceed?

Without creating an account I went to https://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-vehicle/recalls/search.html and after entering my VIN the TSB doesn't show up.

I'm wondering if more information appears if you actually have an account?

I do think I'm out of luck though, the knocking seems more on the passenger side and the engine light isn't on, even after letting it idle for an hour.

When I get my failing lug nut off so I can change off the flat tire I'll take it for a small drive to see if it triggers anything.  If not I'll start shopping for a new engine because the knock sounds pretty bad to me.

VID_20180512_185459.mp4

On 5/10/2018 at 9:26 AM, OhareFred said:

Go to Mopar.com, to the owners page, make an account and put in your vin.  You will then have access to see what dealer repairs were made, what warranty you have, etc.    very useful when you deal with a crappy dealer.  It will also help you find the closest dealers....pick a new one.

 

Good luck!

Does this work for Canada too?  When I try the US one to register the link I am emailed fails saying my registration is invalid or expired even though its only been 2 minutes.
Trying the open to register for Canada website instructs me to register for SiriusXM Guardian from my UConnect.  I don't have that, is there a software update I'm missing?
I haven't updated anything since I purchased in 2012.