bramfrank

I just received the full printed manual for my Journey. It is full of information for optional equipment, identified by the statement 'If Equipped' for those items that may be options on my particular specimen. I wonder if we couldn't just take Chrysler to court on a class action lawsuit since even the manual doesn't specify that BT is an option.

OK, so to help those who don't have a pencil and paper or access to the Internet or can't be bothered figure out what it is, 36 psi is slightly more than 248 kpa

I guiess you weren't paying attention when they discussed Boyle's law in high school?

I'd more than wager than the 2012 is just like the 2011 Is that a hole in the mat for the hook? That'd be a deal breaker for me if it was . . . I have the Husky, which is moulded for all 3 hook locations.

Temperature compensation IS a feature in some sensors - I have that feature on one of my motorcycles. But then again, since the vehicle knows the outside temperature, any correction could be applied in the vehicle, rather than at the sensor. Even then, tire pressure is an absolute. You are supposed to have 36 pound presure when the tire is cold (i.e. in the morning). Simple enough to do if you own a compressor and have a good tire pressure gauge.

You know, that wouldn't be a bad idea . . . have the icons glow when the heaters are enabled . . . and it wouldn;t hurt to also tie the mirror heater to ambient temperature as well - you don't get condensation on the mirror for the same reason you do on the back window. No need to turn on the mirror heaters unless ambient is below freezing.

Beat the darned thing to death to see if it is REALLY fixed. It may well be, since the problem would, in my humble opinion be likely related to wiring (as mentioned). In fact it probably all goes to one bad common (ground) connection somewhere on the car. As I said before, engineers are not used to dealing with machines controlled by computers and they are not usually trained to debug problems - they design stuff and their software cohorts write code, but unfortunately they aren;t very good at solving complex problems. CAMVAP may not be any help if you can't make it break again - I think you need to get them to extend a special warranty long before the CAMVAP hearing - you could get stuck with this thing - then again if they fixed the issue, the vehicle will be reliable from this point on.

All I can say is; get those papers filed. And Good Luck

Unfortunately CAMVAP will depreciate the buyback - maybe that's why they aren't making the offer?

At leasst you could drive the vehicle to them - it doesn't need to be shipped across the world to get 'home'. Maybe they'll upgrade you to a fully loaded R/T while they are at it.

The fob system has no electrical connection to the vehicle, though there was a recall to increase the holding tension because people with a lot of hardware on their fobs were experiencing a situation where the key would rotate to the off position under the weight of that stuff . . . . I found no reference to intermittent failures in the system itself in my admittedly cursory search of the web, though that doesn't prove anything one way or the other.

Yes, you can. There are a couple of solutions available. Lockpick NAV-TV There may be others.

That isn't going to do anything, since the OP reports that the battery isn't going flat - there's an intermittent *something*. It could be hardware or it could be software (based on the reported numbers of vehicles with the problem and that apparent fact that just 'trying later' without doing anything brings it back I suspect it is more likely software). If they get 10 calls a week locally, then the manufacturer must be getting lots of complaints - has the dealer bothered to call engineering? Or are they just trying 'stuff'? Do you get chimes or anything else when this happens? Maybe the neutral switch isn't working? Next time this happens, try running the shifter through the gates and back to Park and try again. Is the battery being run down (dim interior lights, sluggish cranking)? I'm asking for the sake of completeness. Does the vehicle even try to start? Does it crank & not catch? Does it 'click' and not crank? Does it do 'nothing'? Do the accessories come on when you turn the key? The complications of today's vehicles and the stress of our temperate climate means that dealers need to be great diagnosticians - and very few are. It's a good thing your vehicle is under warranty . . . even so the dealer local to me told me that if HE didn't find a problem I'd have to pay his hourly rate . . . my comment to him was that if HE didn't find the problem then I should be compensated for his having wasted my time . . . I turned around and drove to another dealer who listened to my complaint, checked with the manufactrer and reported back to me (Issues with my 4.3). I wasn't happy to be told that 'that's the way it is' (255 songs or 1 Gig max MP3s on a USB device for the 2011 and that lagging controls while playing MP3s is 'normal'), but they didn't present me with a bill, either.

CAnadian Motor Vehicle Arbitration Plan

The retractable cargo cover is a feature for the 5 passenger version of the journey and is supplied as standard equipment in the US on the SXT and higher trim levels and on the SE Plus and higher in Canada. If you didn;t buy a vehicle in which it comes standard and you want one you'll need to take out a credit card to buy it. It is made in several colour versions; Black, Gray and Dark Tan - there are a tan and a gray one on eBay right now - and it is a $315 item at retail (you can find them new online for less than $175 - parts.com), whch was one of the reasons I went for the SE Plus when I bought my Journey, the others being the tinted glass and 17" wheels - the LED tail lights leather steering wheel, floor mats and other bits made the extra money I paid worthwhile.

I hope you recorded the conversation with the dealer, because CAMVAP is not going to bother with the hearing and review once they hear that the dealer was told not by Chrysler to bother trying to fix your undriveable vehicle. As to the person you spoke with at customer service . . . . . Start by speaking with a supervisor, but in parallel write a letter to the office of the president of Chrysler Canada outlining that you have a defective new vehicle that has not been accidented, but that the dealer says is unrepairable and ask him to explain why you are unable to get resolution . . . since if they can't fix the vehicle they have a legal obligation to either replace it or refund you your money. That letter has to go by e-mail, fax and by registered mail. Remember to claim for your expenses and payments made while the vehicle is unuseable. Be polite. be concise. Don't be aggressive. To heck with the 'edited' information. Proper spelling is more important.

Simple enough . . . get onto a flat stretch of road and set the cruise control to 100 kph - instantaneous fuel economy shoould read in the 9-11 kph range. As to putting your ear against the wall and hearing motor noises . . . don't. You want it quiet back there, shut down the rear ventilation. Your USB issue? Try a different brand of key and see if the problem persists. Have you run into the 250 song, 1 gig of music limitation? Do the controls and display get sluggish when playing high bit rate MP3s?

At least you got a manual.

I could edit the previous post or I could simply post another below it. I don't like the 'edited' banner, so another post it will be: Since your vehicle is prone to stalling out in traffic, you should head over to the Industry Canada web site and file a defect report and make sure you specify that there was a riosk of accident resulting from an series of unanticipated engine stalls and that the manufactrer has replaced numerous parts in a failed attempt to diagnose (let alone correct) the problem. Here is the link: https://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/PCDB-BDPP/fc-cp.aspx?lang=eng

I had a friend who convinced the manufacturer of his motorcycle to replace when an engine problem developed in the first week or so of ownership it and I have personally forced another motorcycle manufacturer into generating a worldwide recall for several years' worth of production for a defect that, to this day they claim does not exist. It takes a lot to get an auto manufacturer to pony up and buy back your car - and we don't have lemon laws up here. Let's start by looking at your issues: The metric/US delivery issue is one I would look at with suspicion - it points to a wrongly flashed BCM - does the odometer read out in miles or in kms? I would expect the odometer to follow the default EVIC display setting and if it reads in miles then they have sold you what is technically an illegal vehicle. As to 'living with it' (assuming it reads in kms)? I'd have handed it back to them as unrepairable when they said that there was no solution then and there. However you have chosen to accept the problem, so unfortunately have no basis for a claim. I suspect that the hard shift & stall issue will likely turn out to be a wiring problem or bad connector on the BCM or one of the other computers scattered around the vehicle - you just don't get '7 codes' at once that recur after parts have been replaced - these guys are just scatter-shotting the repairs. Now I am not a car mechanic (and these days it takes a lot more than being able to handle a wrench to debug a car). I've been doing advanced wide area wireless network sales and design for international public safety and other mission-critical applications in addition to operating a small alarm/telecom company - being able to make sense out of an issue that can have hundreds of potential sources is one of my specialties - you need to be a bit like 'House MD' to keep from wasting parts, time and lots of money just changing bits until the vehicle is running properly again. Many dealers don't have that aptitude. And this is one of the major reasons I want to get my extended warranty group buy organised and purchased. Going to court isn't going to be pretty. You will not be able to use small claims because you will sue for the value of the vehicle - and even then, the problem is to prove monetary damages, and the truck isn't depreciated to zero in any case. If you were renting a vehicle because yours was undriveable, then you might be able to recover the rental fees. Beyond this, you are looking at Superior Court and that's going to cost more than the issue is worth. Having said that, I suggest that you may have two options: The most desirable solution for you would seem to be to have Chrysler subsidise the trade-in of your truck against a new one - the dealer would give you the book value of a six month old unit with 16K kilometers and Chrysler would kick in the difference (including sales taxes if you can get them to). This isn't going to be an easy option to get them to agree with, but it might be able to be done. However if I were Chrysler I would be tying that to your purchasing another unit from the same product group. Yes, I know that this is pretty much the same as having them replace the truck, however since they claim that the vehicle is repaired, the dealer can take it in as a trade and their hands look somewhat clean. They will not have done a buy back and they MIGHT find this an acceptable solution if you are a careful negotiator and keep your cool. Be aware, however that they can safely (from a legal perspective) insist that you pay a portion of the trade-up because you will have driven the vehicle 16K km in 6 months, which is more than the anticipated average mileage - they presume about 20K km per year. If they do and if you refuse you will have a hard time trying to sue them. A perhaps more achievable solution might be to try and have the engine replaced as a whole - it is clear that having opened it up twice (pistons . . . really?) to replace parts that were not defective, the motor will never be quite the same again (actually it will, but YOU don't think so) . . . . . . They need to replace the BCM too. If the problem persists then they will need to replace the wiring harness - and good luck to them. That was what I forced Yamaha to do for the machine I and about 30,000 others ride . . . . for a bike it ain't all that simple. But the harness on a motorcycle is all in one small space and fairly exposed, so they can do it in a few hours. . For a car . . . I don't know.. If you keep the vehicle you'll also want to have them kick in with an extended special warranty to cover the power train and electrics (and I believe that the problem is most likely electrical based on the little bit of information you've provided). Good luck

This is an older thread, but if you get notifications you'll be back to read this input: My experience is that manufacturer plans are a LOT better at settling claims than 3rd party ones. I've always had extended warranties on my vehicles and have usually made money with them - I've had to sue one 3rd party provider that was the one that was highly rated by the CAA - the judge ruled in my favour. There is a group buy I am trying to orchestrate - It was developed on this site, but for some reason the powers here deleted the topic and removed the information from my signature - but it is up and running at redglagdeals: Here is a link to the topic if you want to investigate the concept of patricipating in a group buy for a Chryslet OEM extended warranty purchase further: http://forums.redflagdeals.com/chrysler-factory-backed-extended-warranties-25-more-off-group-buy-1102770/#post13726686

Just for accuracy, in Canada at least the CVP was the SE in 2011. They seem to have dropped the SE moniker for 2012, at least according to the Canadian web site - LEDs come on the SE PLUS and above. Not sure why they call it a 'plus' in Canada if they no longer have an SE. There is no badge identifying Canadian 'plus' models - you need to check the exterior styling cues. In both Canada and the US the CVP/AVP come with regular bulbs and the SE (SE plus in Canada) is the model above the base and have LED tail lights, roof rails (with crossbars in Canada) and more. What you get for your extra money in each country is as follows Canada: LED Tail Lights Tinted windows Roof rack side rails WITH crossbars Leather wrapped steering wheel & shifter 17" alloy wheels Floor mats Body coloured mirrors retractable cargo cover US: LED Tail Lights Tinted windows Roof rack side rails (NO crossbars) To get body colored mirrors, floor mats, 17" wheels and such you need to take it up to the SXT in the US - which also gives you the six cylinder engine (with dual exhausts and six speed tranny), fog lights, standard Sirius-equipped radio and more aggressive looking front bumper/grill. Why they option them so differently is beyond me. I'm sure they have their reasons - it does seem as though the upgrade to the SE/SE Plus is a much better value proposition in Canada than it is in the US. Then again, the Canadian Journey outsells the US one by a huge margin on a per capita basis - could this be why? Quick question: The US brochure states that the TPS system simply says OK, Hi or Low for pressure indication. My SE Plus shows actual tire pressure values (albeit in 7 kpa steps) on the EVIC - do US models show numbers? Or is the American TPS simply an idiot light setup?

There are a couple of errors in that review - they mentiuon that the SXT/Crew adds ABS - it is standard across the product. I suspect that the 'open the hatch' thing was a mis-impression. Power rear hatch just doesn;t exist - they DID mention that they missed the rear door lock push button in the review, so it wasn;t quite as detailed as it might have been. There was one other item in that review that caught nmy attention; They mentioned that the model came with standard Bluetooth - we know that can't be true. Note that for 2012 all models above the base include crossbars with the roof rails (darn it).

I bought the Husky liners. About US$140 for the front and middle rows shipped.

@kubind; It doesn't matter where 'you' are, or where I am for that matter, since what we're buying are OEM plans which are backed by Chrysler - I have no idea whether the price I was quoted was discounted or not (I suspect it may have been nor do I know what plan you were quoted on nor whether it was a Chrysler OEM plan or not. But I DO know that your price included 13% HST, where mine did not include taxes - it is important to compare apples to apples. What we need to do is to get the EOI part of this program completed (EOI means Expression Of Interest) and when we know how many plans we're looking for we can also figure out WHICH plans people want to buy and to start the process of negotiating by getting the retail prices for the plans in hand and then working from there. But I need to know that given that these plans can be worth upward of 3,000 and even 5,000, I don't want to see people sticking the rest of us with a lame duck deal because of sticker shock. We need to KNOW what we're committing to and those who do commit to the program will need to come up with the payments when the time comes.