Bignosedog

over the yr with my 2011 and now my 2014 journey i replaced all the battery's that i had to except this last time, the shop said they would install it for $10. i said okay, like I really didnt care all the while thinking quick jump on this before he changes his mind....,LOL guess i am getting old.....BUT i did stand there and watched him to make sure there wasn't any problems or mishaps

Nice job bignosedog, congratulations on the man card bonus star  LOL  I am sure the attached picture will also help others know they can tackle this themselves and save an hour extra  in mechanic labour cost.

There are no shortcuts in life.  Problem resolved.  I ended up taking the wheel off and cleaning the heck out of that terminal.  This time the jump start worked.  Yay!  I got the alternator and battery checked and both came back fine so I think that one rusted clamp was the cause.  Though I've become closer to my Dodge from working on it I will say this is the first time I've owned a car where they've "hidden" the battery and I will never take for granted how easy it is to clean a terminal on most cars.  My family is mobile again and it cost me nothing so I am not complaining.  Thank you all for your help and for anyone who may read this thread down the road my advice is take the tire off, use a screw driver to lift the center part of the POP rivets and pull that rod out and you can pry the "Molly" part out and reuse them without them damaged.  Also, if you still have power steering working you can turn the wheel and remove the panel with the wheel still on.  If you are just cleaning a terminal this may give you enough space but if you are replacing the battery that wheel has to come off.  I'm no mechanic but I have to say having my daughter and wife thank me and overhearing my wife brag about me sure felt pretty damn good!  It's like I got a Gold Star on my Man Card.  Thank you all once again for your help and for anyone else coming down the road and reading this it might be a hassle but it's really more just time than anything.  Take your car to a battery place afterwards and they'll check your alternator and battery for free and for those who have AAA I guess they can come out and test them as well.

@Bignosedog, yeah that is a good feeling... you're a top dog when you get the Family car fixed. Little grease under the finger nails and maybe a scratch here and there (I digress).
 
Anyway, glad it all worked out and you did it right. Now go enjoy your DJ!!!

There are no shortcuts in life.  Problem resolved.  I ended up taking the wheel off and cleaning the heck out of that terminal.  This time the jump start worked.  Yay!  I got the alternator and battery checked and both came back fine so I think that one rusted clamp was the cause.  Though I've become closer to my Dodge from working on it I will say this is the first time I've owned a car where they've "hidden" the battery and I will never take for granted how easy it is to clean a terminal on most cars.  My family is mobile again and it cost me nothing so I am not complaining.  Thank you all for your help and for anyone who may read this thread down the road my advice is take the tire off, use a screw driver to lift the center part of the POP rivets and pull that rod out and you can pry the "Molly" part out and reuse them without them damaged.  Also, if you still have power steering working you can turn the wheel and remove the panel with the wheel still on.  If you are just cleaning a terminal this may give you enough space but if you are replacing the battery that wheel has to come off.  I'm no mechanic but I have to say having my daughter and wife thank me and overhearing my wife brag about me sure felt pretty damn good!  It's like I got a Gold Star on my Man Card.  Thank you all once again for your help and for anyone else coming down the road and reading this it might be a hassle but it's really more just time than anything.  Take your car to a battery place afterwards and they'll check your alternator and battery for free and for those who have AAA I guess they can come out and test them as well.

you dont say om how old the battery is but going into really cold winter your best bet is to replace it when you remove and clean the terminals on the old one..also i use a spray battery terminal protectant after reinstalling the cables it covers the terminal connectors with a red spray ,,,works really great, also dont worry about using a battery tender when changing the battery,and yes just remove the wheel and remove the plastic inner fender to have easy access to the battery still tight but is really the only way,and as said before after getting the battery changed or cleaned have some one check your alt as well////////////P.S have some baking soda and water and a small brush to put on the cable ends and where ever you have corrosion  to neutralize it as well
 
CRC 05046 Battery Terminal Protector - 7.5 Wt Oz.
Brand: CRC 4.7 out of 5 stars    780 ratings  
| 23 answered questions           Price: $10.19

You could try cleaning remote terminals under hood first. Be careful to not arc out positive with a metal tool against any other metal surface.
 
If you then put it on charger and get it close to 12 volts, you might be able to jump start off another battery.
The push button start needs close to 12 volts to engage circuit to start car. That’s why it won’t start.
 
However cleaning the terminals right at battery will likely be needed long term. There is no way to access battery from under hood ,  taking wheel off and fender liner out is only way. Checking alternator also great idea. 

Have a can of penetrating spray handy and soak and sit a little while - the nut and long bolt that holds the battery in place. Mine was pretty rusted, had to use an air gun and extensions from up top.

Glad you got it done. With out car running you have full manual steering ability. Even on electric assist power steering cars (starting circa 2007ish)  you can muscle car to side of road. Although it takes a little effort you can in fact turn steering on Journey without engine running as well. And skip the gym visit for the day.
 
Spray the terminals with the CRC  corrrosion spray other posters mentioned. Avoid another no start.
Always grab battery terminal with glove after tightening and try and move it. If you can move it; needs more tightening. 

There are no shortcuts in life.  Problem resolved.  I ended up taking the wheel off and cleaning the heck out of that terminal.  This time the jump start worked.  Yay!  I got the alternator and battery checked and both came back fine so I think that one rusted clamp was the cause.  Though I've become closer to my Dodge from working on it I will say this is the first time I've owned a car where they've "hidden" the battery and I will never take for granted how easy it is to clean a terminal on most cars.  My family is mobile again and it cost me nothing so I am not complaining.  Thank you all for your help and for anyone who may read this thread down the road my advice is take the tire off, use a screw driver to lift the center part of the POP rivets and pull that rod out and you can pry the "Molly" part out and reuse them without them damaged.  Also, if you still have power steering working you can turn the wheel and remove the panel with the wheel still on.  If you are just cleaning a terminal this may give you enough space but if you are replacing the battery that wheel has to come off.  I'm no mechanic but I have to say having my daughter and wife thank me and overhearing my wife brag about me sure felt pretty damn good!  It's like I got a Gold Star on my Man Card.  Thank you all once again for your help and for anyone else coming down the road and reading this it might be a hassle but it's really more just time than anything.  Take your car to a battery place afterwards and they'll check your alternator and battery for free and for those who have AAA I guess they can come out and test them as well.

Bottom line... if you are going to do this, do it the right way. If you go from the top, there is more to remove than just the fuse box. This might cause more damage and time then jacking the car up and breaking a $0.05 plastic clip. You should probably clean both terminals if you believe that is the cause (tender not really needed). Before putting the tire back, try jumping it and if it doesn't work, you are ready to replace the battery. If it does work, don't put it back completely and run to get the battery and alternator tested. If they say it's the battery, well now you are familiar on how to switch it. 
I've tried enough shortcuts to know its better to do it the right way. Totally up to you though.