scootaloo89

is the new caliper bracket OEM or aftermarket? because some aftermarket parts aren't quite the same dimensions as a part you get at the local DCJRF dealership.

pulled the caliper off and apart today; no scoring on the piston or the bore, but the lip between the dust boot and the inner seal was rusty as heck. I went ahead and cleaned up that lip, reassembled everything, and went for a test drive. Took 3 different temperature readings and did 3 ABS panic stops (on not busy rural backroads), and both front brakes were within a few degrees of each other. I’m definitely going to be keeping an eye (and nose) on this problem because I want to take our journey on a road trip the second week of July.

slide pins were still free and had plenty of grease on them; I’m going to call my local O’reilly’s and have them get me a rebuild kit, and if that doesn’t work, a new caliper and brake hose will be next.

well, a new problem has cropped up on our 2010, the driver front brake is seemingly dragging and overheating, the brake actually overheated to the point of warping the rotor and cooking the pads to unusability. after replacing both front rotors and pads, and doing the BAS/ESP reset trick as described by Dusty256 to no avail; the driver front brake was 40 degrees hotter (150 degrees) than the passenger side (110 degrees) after my test drive tonight. any advice is appreciated, i don't want to have to start firing the parts cannon at it!

back in November (before i joined) the mopar battery installed by the previous owner finally gave up the ghost and had to be jumped off to start. i actually work for a well known retailer that installs batteries and had a coworker install a new battery for me. the coworker informs me that the negative terminal nut on the battery won't tighten and is starting to twist the terminal apart; i have a look at it, and told him to do the best he can to tighten it and the rest of the service goes off without a hitch. Cut to last week; me, my mother and my niece drive the journey to my niece's house to pick up her brother who was house sitting while their parents were in Dallas for the NHL Winter Classic; we all jump in the journey, and I turn the key and everything goes dead like the battery was disconnected. i check under the hood and everything seemed okay and then the journey powers back up. i go to start it again and it goes dead again. in frustration, i rap on the Fusebox/TIPM and everything comes back to life and we drive home very warily. now cut to today: the parents and I do a weekly dinner with vietnam veterans and I drive for them so they can enjoy some beers. i go and move my work car from behind the journey and attempt to start it to test if that problem i encountered last week went away; Spoiler Alert, it hasn't. it went completely dead like last time. i rap on the Fusebox/TIPM like I did the last time, and the horn chirped at me and the hazard lights flashed, but still no crank/start. i'm convinced that the negative terminal on the battery has failed and is not making a good connection to the battery causing my problem. so has anyone encountered a problem like this and what was the solution? (i ordered a battery cable set from my local Dealer and it will be here on friday.)

hello all, this is my first post here at the Journey Forums! As mentioned in my title, this is not my first mopar product (had a Plymouth Breeze and was a massive contributor to Stratusphere and Allpar back when I had it) I hope I can get as much support as i did when i was over at those forums!