Eduardo831

So I decided to delete some of the emblems for a cleaner look in my opinion your entitled to yours. Anyways you'll need fishing wire I used a 12lb-tug nothing fancy and a decal eraser purchased from Amazon for 11 dollars and a hairdryer( is what I had on hand) or heat gun and finally a power drill. 

1. Heat the emblem you want to delete use fishing wire to get behind it and pull through

2. Use the rubber decal eraser pad on a power drill and be amazed of how easily it removes it. It took me about 2 mins to remove the residue from the emblems. Pictures speak for themselves good luck no polishing was done after I used the eraser I didn't see a need. 

2 hours ago, Justinmh said:

 Another thing to confirm is that the power source is switched. I have the home link on my sunvisor which does not get power with the vehicle off and the antitheft armed

I'll take that in consideration. 

Thanks for the info bramfrank I'll definitely look into it and report back in my findings. And what you said makes sense I do know that the Homelink uses direct power from the cars battery so only issue would be making sure the wires or plugs are the same or spliced. 

Hello 

My question is my journey did not come with the drivers side visor with homelink capability(pg.78 owners manual). I was wondering if I were to purchase a oem Journey visor with homelink integrated would it work on mine? like plug n play or would there be some necessary splicing or dealer programming to have it work completely. Yes I have a garage door opener remote, but would be nice to just have it integrated. Some input would be nice. My 2015 Journey is 8.4 unconnect 3.6L SXT trim model just in case it matters. Thanks in advance for some input. 

Yes i had this happen only difference was that I have after market mufflers. One of my hangers was cracked and needed to be reweld. It even made noise when closing the door. The shop I took it to added two hangers instead of one on each side. 

On 7/18/2012 at 5:51 AM, jrrock26 said:

Hi, I'm new to the forum. Just trying to get feedback, help, or compare experiences with others. I have a 2011 Journey, bought May 2011. I've put about 16500 miles on it. April 2012 the car started shutting off whenever we stopped at stop signs, red lights, & etc... happened probably once a week. Didn't have much concern, wasn't sure if it was bad gas or not. In May, my wife was driving it at about 55MPH and the engine stalled, when she restarted it, the vehicle went into safe mode and had to be restarted a few times to get it out of safe mode. We then decided to take it to the dealer. They replaced a PCM and ran some updates. Recieved the car a week later, and it malfunctioned again on the first day we had it back. Took it back to the dealer, they replaced cam phasers, injectors, and more updates. Recieved it about 3 days later. First day once again it would stall out while driving, but this time it would restart itself and with the delay it would cause the car to buck when picking back up. Kind of like they programmed the code to restart if it stalls in operation. It did stall out completely one time after that, while in reverse and when I we pushed the button to restart it, it would crank for a few second and stopped and automatically recrank again until it finally started. We took it back again to the dealership. This time a "STAR" field tech from Chrysler came out and they replaced the engine wire harness and injector wire harness. Once again we were called on Friday to come pick up the car. We drove towards home and made it 20 miles from the dealership and going up the mountain, the engine stalled again, picked back up and the car went into safe mode. I had to pull over, shut the car off, and restart it. The service department had closed by that time, so I contacted Chrysler and am still waiting to hear a response from them as to what they can do with the car. The engine light will come on every now and then, but it usually only stays on until the car is restarted again. So, I've been paying for this Journey and haven't driven it anywhere other than back and forth to the dealership for 3 months. Personally I'm frustrated with being a test dummy for the dealership and Chrysler "see how it runs now", that sort of thing. I apologize for my rant, but anyone else out there having the same/similar issue with your 2011 Journey? Any advice?

Thanks,

If it's only stalling when in drive position I would think the culprit would be the crankshaft sensor. When they are going bad if slightly tapped they will cause the vehicle to shut off while driving 

On  eBay they have genuine crossbars for 135 not sure if that's cheaper than Amazon just letting you know 

11 hours ago, Joan said:

My 2009 misfires, we replaced the crankshaft position sensor, what else? Mechanics are bumfuzzled. I need help

I agree with dusty my friends 2.4L Avenger was misfiring replaced his crankshaft sensor no change then changed his sparkplugs and notice one of his coil pack boots was torn and old, so he replaced all 4 boots and car ran fine after. Boots are inexpensive like 15-20 dollars for the whole set. 

Just now, Thuya said:

I let the car run to see when the fans kicked on. They came on when it hit 215.

Good to hear I know rippperformance sells a thermostat that will open at 180 degrees if your trying to keep your 3.6L block cooler just letting you know. 

Don't quote me on this but from my understanding the ecu will always turn the cooling fans on when temperature gauge reaches its normal operating temperature.

4 hours ago, Josh Feller said:

Can someone help me with a part number because when I look online it just says left rear or left right for cv joints. What is considered right? And left? Thanks

Left is the drivers side right will always be passenger side. Any vehicle parts are labeled by the drivers side point of view looking out the front windshield. 

Love the color not sure if your a fan of blacking out the rims and grille but would look sick with that color gold combo. 

2 hours ago, Thuya said:

My 13 journey temperature gage usually sits at the half mark. Lately it has been going above that if im sitting at a red light too long. I had the system bleed and it didnt do it again. But then a week later its doing it again. Once i start moving or rev my engine it comes back down. I looked under the hood and it looks like all the antifreeze went back into the reservoir. What could it be please help

Don't drive it you will warp the cylinder heads. If I had to guess 1.thermostat if it is bad if your lucky it's not opening properly 2. If it's only overheating at stop/ traffic lights then your electrical fans are not working. 3.water pump is not working/ leaking 4. Blew your head gasket 

Yeah that's unfortunate, but don't blame you for wanting to sell it after all this. 

On the 2009-2011 Journeys the rocker arms develop gaps between the liftersand the arms so tapping sound starts. How to fix buy new rocker arms and install them yourself it's not to hard to do but new rocker arms for that year will be a hefty amount. 

Aftermarket hids I put them in all of my vehicles 6k temperature(white color) 55watt. 

Yeah I hear you there are a large verity of 4 cylinder crossover type of vehicles out there that are way better than the 4 cylinder model Journey especially mpg wise. 

Yup the 4-cyl is extremely underpowered and it is more stress on that little engine for such a large vehicle. The way I always saw it is think of a little guy pulling a large mass sure it can do it but how long, versus a larger guy pulling the same large mass. If possible try to trade it in for the 6-cylinder model you won't be disappointed and 1 mpg difference from your 4-cylinder model. 

Sounds like your head gasket blew unfortunately, do a compression test or get one done to be sure. After decide whether it's worth you doing the job yourself or paying someone to do it. 

On 1/15/2015 at 11:25 PM, Milous said:

The following sequence of events must occur within sixty (60) seconds of the ignition switch being placed in the On position in order for the programming to be completed successfully.

1.With the ignition switch in any position except On or Start, buckle the driver side front seat belt.

2.Turn the ignition switch to the On position and wait for the seatbelt indicator reminder function to conclude (about six seconds).

3.Unbuckle and buckle the driver side front seat belt three or more times, ending with the belt buckled.

4.Turn the ignition switch to any position except On or Start to toggle the BeltAlert feature from its current setting (from active to inactive, or from inactive to active). A single chime tone will provide an audible confirmation that the programming sequence has been successfully completed

Thanks this worked for me on a 2015 Dodge Journey SXT v6 model. 

9 minutes ago, Baumrb said:

Thanks for all the info! Is there a way (that if I wanted to) I could wire the led tube lights differently? 

 

Thanks again

Yes I believe there is someone in our forum posted about it. If I remember correctly it Sounded too complicated for me to attempt. But dig through I'm sure you'll find the post if you decide to go that route good luck. 

20 minutes ago, Baumrb said:

Sorry one other question- so they are a different bulb then the stock correct? I just bought and installed HID on my car but now thought if I got these they wouldn't fit- is that correct? 

Ok I found the projector stock light bulb is a halogen is  H7 12volts 55 watts. Which are different from the stock ones making the hids different as well unfortunately. 

13 minutes ago, Baumrb said:

Sorry one other question- so they are a different bulb then the stock correct? I just bought and installed HID on my car but now thought if I got these they wouldn't fit- is that correct? 

The hid bulbs from the stock ones will be different to these projector ones since the halogen bulbs are different size. I don't remember the size from the top of my head but they are different 

11 minutes ago, Baumrb said:

Thanks for the information! So the LED lights what are they hooked up to if they are prewired? Do they come on as driving lights?

 

thanks again 

If you want the tube lights on you will have to turn the nob to the parking lights and yes that means your tailights will be on. That doesn't bother me or any of the police officers so far. That led horizontal bar is your turn signal and will only be activated when using your turn signal 

31 minutes ago, Baumrb said:

Sorry if this was stated somewhere already but are the "tube" lights connected within the wiring harness of the lights or do you have to run your own wiring? Also are the headlights easy to take out? I see a few bolts- is it just a couple? 

 

Thanks!!

It's plug and play but they come with halogen bulbs the "tube" lights are led though. I was able to remove the headlights without having to remove the bumper. I would not recommend that since I made a small scratch which was later buffed out no biggie.