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diggit

Journey Member
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Everything posted by diggit

  1. Might want to check your engine air filter. I had the same feeling on my '10 sxt but it got better after I vacuumed the filter . I'm waiting on a K&N replacement now. Should notice a big improvement after that.
  2. Just got my letter today. They only gave me until 24 months or 40,000kms no deductible for the front pads and rotors. Only in Canada... Guess I'll be driving the heck out of my Journey so I can get some of those new 3rd party parts.
  3. Here is a link: NHTSA Campaign Number: 10V475000 http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/NHTSA_10V475000_2010_DODGE_JOURNEY_recall_114420.html
  4. Congratulations! Haven't seen the 2011 first hand but from various pics it looks like a big upgrade from previous models. Was the price much different over the 2010?
  5. I did the trans flash update last fall. No I don't think its a computer or traction problem. How st*pid is it that there is no dipstick to check tranny fluid on the 3.5s..?
  6. Sorry I took so long to get back.. If its a store bought CD, go to the dealership and try it on another Journey REQ. If it works then ask dealership to change for another radio again. Show them the problem you are having. Its a pain, I know, but do it before the warranty is up. If you want to send me an ISO, PM me and I'll send you my email.
  7. Just wondering if anyone has noticed the same thing. When I go to 'punch' the accelerator to get to speed (say, going from 40km/h to 80km/h), the tranny will downshift, the engine will rev high but she accelerates slooowwwly. From the sounds of the engine I should be speeding up alot faster from what I remember (its the wifes transport). Its been below freezing the past few weeks (winter), had an oil change about a month and a half ago (has 26,000kms). There are no codes and no warning lights on the dash. Other than this its driving normally. I've got the gold warranty on it so the only thing I'd be out is my time and a day or so without the car if I took it in. Anyone?
  8. You do realize that Subaru has one of the best all wheel drive systems around, don't you?
  9. If your still within the 1 year warranty, they should do it no questions asked. As long as the sympton is there. I brought my 2010 to the dealer July '10 for vibration in the front - they replaced rotors and pads. Then I brought it back a month later with a slight pulse (thought the front was acting up again) and they replaced the rear rotors and pads all under warranty for first year/20,000kms. My suggestion is if you have to pay, either take it to a mechanic or (if you are mechanically inclined- actually disc brakes and rotors are pretty easy to change) buy some good aftermarket parts and do it yourself.
  10. If you are past your 1 year warranty then it will cost you the mechanic's time and a bulb. Its actually pretty easy to replace and the bulbs cost about $2-3 at walmart. I even saw a few at the local dollar store. Search this forum for "HOW TO CHANGE REAR SIGNAL BULB"
  11. As long as it sounds and works normally you should be fine. If you hear/feel anything odd, even years down, if its under warranty take it in but don't mention what you posted. Thats the deal breaker.
  12. My first 15,000 kms or so, my "change oil" message would appear after about 4500kms. I was told to expect the first few oil changes early due to the engine still breaking in. I'm at 21,000 km and haven't heard a peep since the last change about 7,000kms ago. Antares: $60 for a regular oil change? Thats in the higher end. You sure its not synthetic? Next time you need one ask for a deal or you'll be taking it to the nearest walmart. Its still under warranty as long as you keep all reciepts and do it within the proper intervals. You can even do it yourself.
  13. If I understand you correctly... You - bought a new CD and put it into your REQ - Plays for about 20 seconds or so then skips and gives error. - Exchanged the CD for another and still skips. - Got the dealership to swap out radios and finally got the CD to play - Next day it wouldn't play correctly. If dealership DID change out your REQ for a new one, they may have put in another defective unit. Chances of that are very slim. My guess is the dealership ran a lens cleaner of some sort and you still have your original unit. I have the REQ and it has performed flawlessly with everything I've put into it (burned/original CD/DVDs). You may want to take it back to whomever you got to replace the unit and ask them what they really did.
  14. You can take it to another dealership or a trusted independant mechanic and have them look it over. A good mechanic should be able to pinpoint the cause. Ask for an estimate, it shouldn't cost you anything except your time, then take it back to your dealership and show them your copy as proof there is something wrong.
  15. Ya sounds like it could be a belt. Was it a little chilly when you were starting it? If you have a can of silicone lube spray, carry it in the Journey. When you start hearing the noise pop the hood and give it a squirt on your belts with engine running to see if that helps.
  16. What do you mean pointing outwards? If your looking at the car from the front-to-back, the wheels will look like they are pointing in the opposite directions. Its an illusion caused by the front fascia(bumper) rounding towards the front so you see more tire. If it drives straight down a smooth road then you have nothing to worry about. By the way, alignments are covered for the first year.
  17. I don't have a diesel but I know enough to say it shouldn't be doing that. Sounds like your dealer has no idea or is just over billing chrysler. Go to the dealership and test drive another diesel journey. If they don't have any try another dealership.
  18. Dunno.. Could just be the power steering linkage or rocks under your tires. As your garage is just a big box, you might notice a few unknown sounds because the sound is bouncing off the walls and to your ears. If you can noticebly reproduce it outside of the garage then I suggest taking it to the dealership.
  19. Being in Windsor, you must know or have a friend that works at chrysler. If not, your best bet is to shop around and haggle for the best price. Every car price is negotiable. Thats why your getting different prices for the same thing. Here's a tip: get the lowest priced quote in writing and take it to the other dealership and see if they beat it. If not, you know where your purchasing your Journey. But like Germax wrote, the 2011 model is one to wait for.
  20. With 12,000kms...you are ok as long as its been less than a year and under 20,000kms. It does sound like front rotors could be warping. Could also be a tire losing balance. After they do the repair, drive it down a smooth quiet road and apply the brakes as you would normally. Try to see if you notice another slight vibration or noise (after the brakes have been warmed up from use) from the rear. Could be your rear rotors starting to go too. Don't be afraid to take it back to the dealership right away to get the second repair covered under warranty. I had my front end done in July 2010. Although the vibration from the front was gone, something didn't feel right. I took it back in 2 days later and found out my rear rotors were going also. All work (rotors and pads - front and back) was done under warranty with 20 kms to spare (just in time!)
  21. First off, sorry to hear about your brake problems. Second, I hope you saved all your receipts. If ANYTHING goes wrong with your car during its first year or 20,000kms(canada), the repair is fully warrantied. right down to light bulbs, fuses, radio knobs and wiper blades. I would talk to the service manager at your dealership about getting refunded. If he doesn't budge ask for the dealership's owner and explain the situation. Take names and notes of whats said. If he/she isn't helpful then call the corporate customer service line (1-800-465-2001 Canada and US) and explain that your paying out of pocket for warranty work. Don't take any guff from the dealership. They are there to make a buck but they are also frontline reps for chrysler/dodge and unfortunately some are crooks.
  22. if its the factory installed (starts with the original key FOB) then you should be able to start from at least 500 ft. I average about 650 ft from door to car at work and I get it to start just before I am walking out the door. Take it back to the dealership and demonstrate it to the service manager if the service rep won't listen. Sounds like it might be a missing or misinstalled antennae for the reciever. How far can you lock and unlock the doors?
  23. Check your local car stereo shop. Or crutchfield, walmart, target, ebay etc. The 2009 should be the same as 2010.
  24. diggit

    Owners Manual

    You can call Chrysler and order a paper manual. The number is on the back of the simple manual they supply. They will ask for your vin and owner info. As an owner you are entitled to 1 full manual free.
  25. I've got the 2010 sxt, and my journey drives great on the highway. No excessive roll or movement when passing a semi or doing quick lane changes. Goes straight and smooth. Did you own a sports car prior to this? You can't expect an suv to have the same road manners as a smaller, lighter car. Other than that, check mopar. The RT has a stiffer suspension than the SXT so they should have something.
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