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Hopkins Smart Hitch W/Sensors Install


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I decided on installing the Hopkins Smart Hitch because it combined a backup camera with proximity sensors in a license plate mount. Using the inforamtion found in these forums I was able to remove the necessary panels and route the camera feed above the headliner and mount the display above the mirror. Just what I wanted. However, I get only a blue screen, but the sensors work. Suppport hasn't been too detailed, but what they have said is correct, still, not too impressed there. I connected the power to the backup light as all cameras recommend. The camera comes on in reverse, but only a blue screen. It's something in the power. I measured 10.5 volts, but support correctly states that the camera works at 7.5 volts. I checked that with a 9 volt battery and it's fine. Support says with that voltage and proper connections it should work.

Can anyone here tell me what's up with using the power to the backup light in my application?

Thanks for any info!

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I go back to the canbus system these cars use for control of everything.....I think any add on electronics must be compatible. May be wrong, but I know even changing a light to LED you have to use canbus ready LED's. Regular ones dont work (from what I have read).

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As I understand what you have said the camera transmits proper pic with 9vdc battery.

Is that correct?

Normally the cameras are activated by the line voltage to the backup lamp assy

and I would suspect you have the right polarity to the camera,possibly try powering

it with 12vdc from any of the outlets to see if it works then.

You may have to put a dc relay in the backup lamp line in order to actuate it and supply

via the relay a 12 vdc from source (car battery) directly to the camera.

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Thanks bigtsr. Yes, I have the polarity correct. It does work when connected directly to the car battery and with a 9v battery. I have ordered an Amico SSR-10DD DC to DC relay (< $10 on Amazon) and I will post the results.

Edited by Gatorman
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No joy with the solid state relay, blue screen. However, a mechanical relay from Radio Shack works. Getting 12 volts into the liftgate isn't easy. I'm trying to get to the power outlet in the left rear compartment, or behind it rather. I can't get the set belt cover off to loosten the bolt holding the belt guide. It looks like it should pop off with some upward pressure, but I've come close to breaking it and it won't budge. Maybe I could pull the power outlet out of the side panel and get access to the wire that way. Any ideas? It would be nice to have a shop manual, but I've read that Dodge has no plans to publish one, only a subscription service online. *SIGH* It would have been real easy if the camera had just worked with the reverse light power.

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Project complete. You can carefully pry the power outlet away from the panel. I ran a single wire from the liftgate thru the rubber conduit where I fished it from the removed center header panel and was able to (barely) run it under the D post panel and the door gasket and had to remove only the cargo net screw to snake the wire out of the power outlet opening. I used the backup light ground for both the camera and the relay. The backup light power operates the relay. Cost was $130 and the local guy was about $600 for just the camera and I also have a proximity sensor good to about 5 feet. I am satisfied with the results. Anyone thinking about a Hopkins 50002 Smart Hitch shoud be aware that it cannot run directly from the backup light power. While Hopkins support was accurate in everything they said, basically connect it correctly and it will work, they offered nothing to help me. I would recommend this product if you don't mind the work to get it installed.

I hope this will help another DIYer.

Thanks again for all of the great information I've found here. Next project, DRL.

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One last post on this topic. The night vision on this is excellent. It has no lights of its own, but with the DJ's backup lights in total darkness, I had no problem seeing 20 - 30 feet from the road to my garage door. The proximity sensors have four zones and start about 6 feet away. At zone 4 I still had about a foot to the garage door. This raises my review up a notch to definitely worth the effort to install if you didn't buy with it already installed . I've read a lot of reviews about cameras that were useless at night, not this one.

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