SkullKap Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Hi there, I am new to this so bear with me.... I have an existing bob/12"/ and amp that I got installed into my 2011 Dodge Journey. Its the standard 3 cables... remote/ground/battery. Unfortunately, since the battery in this model is not easy to get to, Best buy (the ones who installed it) hook the battery feed up to the positive charging/boosting post, simply because it is easy to get to. Now my situation is, that the stereo worked fine for 4-5 months, then one day my truck would not start after sitting in the off position for ONLY 30 minutes... I took it in to Chrysler, they got it running, and 4 days later the exact same thing... this time they blamed it on a possible Slow drain from my after market amp... I don't understand how it took 4-5 months to slowly drain the battery to a non-startable situation... Apparently, from what I hear the electrical system in the 2011 journey is COMPLETELY different than previous years... I guess my question is - has anyone heard of this situation? or does anyone know where the + battery cable (with built in fuse) needs to go to...? Help... I miss my base......lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Official Dodge Support DodgeCares Posted November 8, 2011 Official Dodge Support Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Hi there, I am new to this so bear with me.... I have an existing bob/12"/ and amp that I got installed into my 2011 Dodge Journey. Its the standard 3 cables... remote/ground/battery. Unfortunately, since the battery in this model is not easy to get to, Best buy (the ones who installed it) hook the battery feed up to the positive charging/boosting post, simply because it is easy to get to. Now my situation is, that the stereo worked fine for 4-5 months, then one day my truck would not start after sitting in the off position for ONLY 30 minutes... I took it in to Chrysler, they got it running, and 4 days later the exact same thing... this time they blamed it on a possible Slow drain from my after market amp... I don't understand how it took 4-5 months to slowly drain the battery to a non-startable situation... Apparently, from what I hear the electrical system in the 2011 journey is COMPLETELY different than previous years... I guess my question is - has anyone heard of this situation? or does anyone know where the + battery cable (with built in fuse) needs to go to...? Help... I miss my base......lol Skull, While I will not rule out the aftermarket wiring hookups, there was a Service Bulletin on a battery drain issue. As far as it working for 4-5 months, the battery may just be getting to the point where the constant drain is taking its toll on the battery. Anyway, the TSB is listed below perhaps it will help. NUMBER: 08-016-11 REV. C GROUP: Electrical DATE: October 07, 2011 SUBJECT: Flash: No Start, Battery Drain, B1606-95, B16AF-15, B16B3-15, B1632-15, B1636-15, Passive Entry Slow Response, Trunk Lamps Shut Off Too Quick, Trunk Release Button Inoperable OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves flash reprogramming Body Control Module with new software. MODELS: 2011 (JC) Journey 2011 (LD) Charger 2011 (LX) 300 NOTE: This bulletin applies to JC vehicles built before July 2, 2011 (MDH 0702XX), and LD, LX vehicles built before June 29, 2011 (MDH 0629XX). SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The service flash corrects the following conditions: NUMBER: 08-016-11 REV. C GROUP: Electrical DATE: October 07, 2011 · No start, or drained battery, due to the BCM keeping the vehicle communication bus awake. · Diagnostic Trouble Codes: B1606-95, B16AF-15, B16B3-15, B1632-15, and B1636-15 · Trunk Lamps turn off after 30 seconds on the first time out delay after the ignition is cycled to OFF (A reduced time out delay after the first time out is normal behavior. The ignition must be cycled before a full ten minute delay may be observed again). · Passive Entry response time seems slow. User will typically complain of having to pull the handle twice to get it to work. · The trunk release button does not work while the doors are locked. NOTE: This software also includes behavior modification to police vehicle only wig wag behavior. DIAGNOSIS: Verify that the Body Control Module is functioning as designed. If DTC's other then those listed are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further. If a customer’s VIN is listed in VIP or your RRT VIN list, perform the repair. For all other customers that describe the symptom/condition or if the technician finds the DTC, perform the repair procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt956 Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Skull, I am looking to hook up an amplifier and a set of subs. I have already connected the power cable to the battery(hidden inside the bumper on driver side). I have looked all over the firewall for a hole to run my power cable through but I can't find one. I went into the cab and started looking around behind the firewall for a hole or a seal with wires running out of it. I have not yet to find any. I need help. Please if you can take a look at the power cable running off your booster stud or the battery to see where exactly does it pass through the firewall at. Or did they have to drill a hole. Drilling holes in a brand new car is not what I want I have warranty on this car for another 150K miles and would like to keep it like that. I know how to install aftermarket radio's, speaker, amps, subs, Tv's, Sat dishes, ect...ect. Please help me out. I am in dire need to get my subs going. I have already gotten my TV's and speakers in but need to get a power source to my amp. Matt nerner 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerner Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 (edited) Skull, I am looking to hook up an amplifier and a set of subs. I have already connected the power cable to the battery(hidden inside the bumper on driver side). I have looked all over the firewall for a hole to run my power cable through but I can't find one. I went into the cab and started looking around behind the firewall for a hole or a seal with wires running out of it. I have not yet to find any. I need help. Please if you can take a look at the power cable running off your booster stud or the battery to see where exactly does it pass through the firewall at. Or did they have to drill a hole. Drilling holes in a brand new car is not what I want I have warranty on this car for another 150K miles and would like to keep it like that. I know how to install aftermarket radio's, speaker, amps, subs, Tv's, Sat dishes, ect...ect. Please help me out. I am in dire need to get my subs going. I have already gotten my TV's and speakers in but need to get a power source to my amp. Matt I hooked my power cable to the booster post, no problem. Been like that for about a year. If you look under the dash, there's a rubber grommet above the pedals. You can drill it or just slice it and just pull your cable through. I sliced it in a cross pattern just enough to pull the wire and still seals. Or you can just take the rubber grommet and replace it ith something if you don't like the idea of drilling/slicing. Edited December 28, 2013 by nerner solorave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis9935 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Mine has a empty @ 2 inch grommet on the firewall right by the brake booster area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis9935 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 How is everyone getting a patch cord source to the amplifier? (Rca level source) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrisjohn6 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 How is everyone getting a patch cord source to the amplifier? (Rca level source) Travis PAC-Audio makes an adapter research it, I have yet to find someone who has used it on the 2013 Uconnect 4.3 without BT/SAT/NAV so I contacted them yesterday. Waiting on a reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald Crew Jr. Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Can someone please give me the step by step on how to hook an amp up the right way so it will last I have an 09 journey r/t I'm afraid of messing something up please help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Can someone please give me the step by step on how to hook an amp up the right way so it will last I have an 09 journey r/t I'm afraid of messing something up please help!!! Are you planning on keeping the stock stereo or upgrading to an aftermarket head unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracuslayer Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 I own a 2012 Dodge Journey with the infinity system. i am going to be installing a amp and sub myself. but do not know how to get access to the battery cause of it being located underneath the fuse box. can i mount it on the boosters and be okay. also does anyone have a wire diagram for the speakers in the rear thanks. SeanTacular 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 I own a 2012 Dodge Journey with the infinity system. i am going to be installing a amp and sub myself. but do not know how to get access to the battery cause of it being located underneath the fuse box. can i mount it on the boosters and be okay. also does anyone have a wire diagram for the speakers in the rear thanks. Yes, just use the shock tower location... Or, remove the panel inside the drivers wheel well, turn the wheel all the way and access it from there. Either will be more than sufficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcar29 Posted February 12, 2022 Report Share Posted February 12, 2022 On 12/28/2013 at 8:01 AM, nerner said: I hooked my power cable to the booster post, no problem. Been like that for about a year. If you look under the dash, there's a rubber grommet above the pedals. You can drill it or just slice it and just pull your cable through. I sliced it in a cross pattern just enough to pull the wire and still seals. Or you can just take the rubber grommet and replace it ith something if you don't like the idea of drilling/slicing. Where did you ground the amp at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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