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Replacing Coolant Thermostat - 2012 SE 2.4L


piccarp27

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Hello! My check engine light has been on for a while and when I ran the code it said P0128. I’ve found that the thermostat is stuck open as the coolant temperature won’t rise above 150 degrees. I’d like to pursue the option of fixing it myself but I’m unsure specifically what to buy. The Mopar website seems to have everything in incomplete pieces and all of the complete housing kits online seem to be of questionable quality. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. 

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youtube will be your best bet to research on what to do... I would advise you to  watch as many as you can, as most only show what they think is important,,, basic tools and quality parts from your local part stores in case their is a problem with them,, make sure you use the correct antifreeze, MOPAR is best but cost a lot of bought locally,amazon has good prices on it...   2.4 is a lot more trouble than the 3.6 which I have but it shouldn't be to hard,local mechanic garage might be your best bet since you seem to be unsure of what you need or to do...good luck

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just one of many videos he seem to removing the air box and might not have to but seemed to the best one I quickly watched replace both thermostats and remember everything is plastic so don't over tighten  the bolts and break the unit...and also make sure you bleed all the air bubbles out of the system as well

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9 hours ago, 2late4u said:

this video just came up on my computer about a new all metal updated thermostat for the 2.4 engine............. 

 

WOW! I like that UPGRADE. I've gone to the metal T-stat housing for both my son's and wife's 3.6 DJ's to get away from "sticking" thermostat issues. I'll go this way with my 2.4 when the time comes.

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I put in the after-market aluminum one last month. I bought it several months ago, but just kept driving the other vehicle until I had to do it, to use that spot in the garage. 

 

The main difficulty I has was that the inside area of the tube that has the O ring wasn't tapered like the plastic one, and I couldn't get the housing to go over the o ring. I worked it over twice with a rat tail file, then smoothed it out with sand paper, and finally emery cloth. I had it lubricated, too, but no way would it go on. Finally used the old O ring, and it went right on. No leaks, either. The other thing I'll say is that the casting flash had not been cleaned up, and I really cut my hands up trying to slide that thing on. After the damage to my hands, THEN I cleaned up the edges with a file. (Should have done that first.)

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