lytefall

Did some google-fu and found a procedure to check the wiring in the loom when everyone looks fine visually. Ended up getting some intermittent power to the actuator so looks like you were right. Time to start digging 
 

thanks for the help. 

Thanks. I checked there because I had issues with that loom and the rear wiper before. Nothing obvious. But then again it wasn’t last time either. Was hoping I was missing something before I pulled the multimeter out and started chasing broken wires as it’s time consuming. 
 

Can anyone confirm that the rear hatch is on the same fuse and the other power locks?

Also, the title autocorrected and won’t let me edit for some reason. Was meant to say “Rear Actuator”

Rear hatch actuator stopped working, but everything else was fine so I assumed I needed to replace the actuator only. Well that didn’t fix the issue. 
 

just thought I would check in for ideas before I start chasing the wires looking for a problem. 
 

I believe it’s in the same fuse as all the other locks from what I read, and the fuse is fine. 
 

2012 RT

Thanks

Awesome. Thanks guys.

Both rear doors groan and pop when I open them. Worse the colder it is. I was going to lube the hinges but the noise seems to be coming from the spring. Not sure lubricating a spring will change anything?

Ideas other than replacement parts?

For some reason the locks began working again on their own after about 36hrs. I couldn't get to disconnecting the battery due to work and it was when I went out to pull the car in the garage that they all of a sudden started functioning normally. It's been 4 days and they still seem to be working fine.

By passive entry, do you mean touching the door handles?

Yes, I do

Both front doors won't open with passive entry. It was fine yesterday. Went to get in the DJ this morning and they won't work.

I thought maybe FOB battery was dead, nope. Maybe interference from some electronics I had on me, nope. Lock button in handle works fine to lock the doors. FOB works fine, interior button fine. Passive entry on rear hatch works fine.

Any ideas?

I will have a look at the glass tomorrow but I have had this DJ for almost 4 years, have never had a collision or glass replacement and changed the wiper blades once before this with no issues.

No go on the lubrication of the hinge and spring. It had no effect. Guess I will have to see what the dealer says.

Sorry for going off topic, but please never use the brush from a car wash. Those things will ruin your paint.

I hear ya. Unfortunately I don't have much choice in the winter. I will hand wash it when it's cold out but there are some times that the wash brush is a necessary evi due to temps. There's only a few mechanical car washes in the city I live in and they are all well known for leaving damage behind. The wash brush is the lesser of the two evils.

If you go to your Dealer, they may tell you to use their blade, and the the arm is bent. More than likely the wiper got caught going through a car wash. The local car wash here used to put a plastic bag over the rear wiper blade to protect it from getting caught in the cleaning strips. They have changed something because they no longer put a bag on the blade.

The OEM blade I was referring to was purchased at the dealer. And I never use mechanical car washes. Closest I come, if it isn't by hand in my driveway is a wash bay where you pay and use the brush.

I will spray down the spring and hinge assembly. Good thought. I will let you know how it goes.

My rear wiper is losing contact with the window from the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock position at the top 2-3" of the blade. This started after changing the wiper blade. I used a OEM blade from Chrysler but ended up switching to a shorter blade because the area that was being left uncleaned was just driving me nuts. The attached picture is with the shorter blade. As you can see it's still losing contact at the top position but not nearly as bad as the proper sized blade.

I have checked the arm, spring, blade etc. and everything looks good. Any ideas before I ask the dealership?

I never even thought of the momentary drop in the reservoir. I will check that as soon as I get done work tonight. Thanks!

As the title states, I have a random chime (same as the message chime). Only happens during moderate to hard braking.

I assume some crazy electrical gremlin, but has this happened to anyone else?

Same thing happened to my parents 2010 DJ. They took it to 2 different dodge dealers and an independent shop over a 6 month period. The only reason they finally figured it out was because we took pictures of the staining in relation to where the tire sat with measurements which basically showed them where to look for the cause. The staining completely ruined their brand new driveway. There's a 12" wide 15' long rust spot running down their driveway that's still very visible even 6 months after the tray was replaced.

Ya. Out of warranty by time. I am only at 50,000km though. I will get my local dealer to note it in case it happens again. They are pretty good at covering small stuff under warranty still because my kms are so low. The entire unit has already been replaced once.

I was just about to post a similar thread when I saw this.

My uconnect screen just shut down while driving. Radio remained on and I was able to switch between presets, adjust volume etc by using manual controls. My heated seat, however, shut off when the screen did. It remained like this until I parked and then when I opened the door the screen came on briefly then shut down. It's been fine ever since.

I take it this is a known issue?

I recently had a stuck caliper. The heat coming off it at first was as you described. I could feel it radiating just walking past it. When it first happned it was summer and outside temp was mid 30s celsius so I noted it but wasn't overly concerned. It actually didn't happen again for a few weeks but the next time it did it, it was worse. Then within a couple of days the heat coming off it was unreal. I couldn't even get my hand close to the rim without feeling like it was burning. Caliper was fully seized and the rotor was destroyed. Luckily the dealership replaced it under warranty even though I was just out of my time frame. You may want to get it checked out just in case it's heading that way.

I haven't had issue with my khumos. Obviously I would love to have had even more life out of them but I didn't feel they were as bad in the rain and snow as a lot of people report. I am in Canada and last year was the first year I felt I needed snows on.

That being said I am still thinking of trying another tire and the pirellis look promising, but in the absence of anything great it wouldnt bother me to get the khumos again.

Just looking for opinions on what the best replacement rubber is for the OEM 19" rim.

All season preferably, but will consider summer tires as well. 225/55/19 or 235/55/19. The ones my usual tire shop carry that I am looking at right now are the Pirelli Centurato P7, Goodyear assurance fuel max and the Cooper CS5. They also carry the Khumos KH16s that come stock (which I got 50k out of). I heard the non dealer KH16s are a different/better compound so should I be considering them as well?

Open to any options, I will just have to find the retailer that carries them.

Main concerns are good tread wear and a quiet(ish) ride. All seasons preferable for unexpected snowfalls, but I have a seperate set of winters in 17s so it's not a huge priority.

Sorry for the late replies. Life got busy.

This was a Dodge dealership.

Shield was never replaced. Dealership said they contacted Dodge and Dodge stated they were not necessary equipment but only designed as a worst case scenario type of preventative feature. I have never been given any reason to distrust the service manager telling me this, so there you go. I had them document my concerns and provide me with a copy and was assured that if anything ever goes wrong related to this it will be covered by the dealership (which they also included on my file and the copy they supplied me).

Mine does the same. Ever since I drove it off the lot. I have had it inspected multiple times because, I agree, if definetly sounds like something's wrong. I have alway been told it is normal.

This just happened with my 2012.....if I am understanding you correctly. Similar issue only mine started after braking on the highway. Driver side rear wheel. Couldn't even stand to be next to it to inspect it because the brake and rim were so hot. Just got it back from shop a couple hours ago. Caliper was seized and it destroyed the pad and rotor as well. All being replaced under warranty.