JustDodge
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Posts posted by JustDodge
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On 7/12/2021 at 1:08 PM, tsteves5 said:
I wanted to share a problem and solution that I recently had on my 2011 with the 6-speed 62TE transmission in case anyone experiences a similar issue.
Driving around town I had no problems and the Journey drove fine, but after driving at least 10-15 minutes at highway speed then stopping the car would often surge while stopping and either idle rough while stopped or stall altogether. Restart the engine in park, select drive, and the car would often stall again. Restart in park, rev the engine a few times, then select drive and the engine would remain running. No error codes.
The issue was that after 10-15 minutes of highway driving the torque converter would remain partially or fully locked.
I changed the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid and so far the problem as not occurred again. In my case, I was not able to obtain the Mopar part in a reasonable amount of time, so I used the Dorman 926-378. Upon comparing the Dorman to the Mopar OEM part, they appear exactly the same. They must both be manufactured by the same supplier.
I have a 2012 3.6 Journey experiencing similar issues. It started off not engaging 6th gear on the freeway. Now it doesn’t engage past 3rd gear, therefore I can’t drive past 40mph. Therefore no freeway driving. If I use slight to moderate acceleration the transmission will slip and I would have to get off the gas, the rpm’s will drop and the transmission will catch itself (assuming that’s the surge stated). If I don’t let off the gas the transmission will literally just drive in no gear. In earlier stages, I did experience stalling but haven’t in a while. I would have to restart the vehicle for the transmission to shift but that’ll only last up to 30mph. I’ve had MULLLLLLTIPLE codes appear just off this one issue, from P0734, P083B, P0735, P0729 and P084B. I also hear like a rattling noise coming from the housing of the transmission as the car is gassed and trans temp reaches around 180-190°. Knowing what the torque converter is, I’m confident it just needs to be replaced that’s IF… it hasn’t caused other internal damage to the transmission.
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On 5/2/2023 at 7:12 PM, Jmoreyra said:
I have a 2014 dodge journey 3.6l SXT AWD showing code P0420. I swapped both upstream and down stream with Bosch O2 sensors and it spit out more codes. Thanks to the forum, I found out that the NTK O2 sensors were best so I swapped the Bosch ones out and replaced with the NTK's. It went back to the P0420 code. I finally took it to a mechanic shop and they told me that I need a new catalytic converter. I was given two estimates, one for a genuine Mopar cat and one for an aftermarket. I saw online that Dorman makes one for $350 and the dealer wants $1,800 for a genuine Mopar cat. My question is: if I install the Dorman aftermarket will it continue to set off the P0420 code or do I need to buy the Genuine Mopar cat? I live in Virginia so there are no emissions. Anyone have any suggestions?
My moms 2017 SXT 3.6 just started showing this code maybe a week ago. This came shortly after a cylinder 4 misfire fuel injector code which was causing the car to shake and have bad fuel economy. Not sure what’s the culprit considering the fact that I bought fuel injectors and mysteriously the issue solved itself?? P0420 still occurs though, intermittently as well. Kinda feel like it’s a domino effect happening
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On 5/3/2023 at 5:50 PM, tsteves5 said:
This does sound like the torque converter could be staying locked. See this thread:
May I ask, I have a similar issue too. Coming to a stop it’s like a surge or jerk. The car may still run or just completely stall. It’s starts back up fine until it stalls again. Doesn’t happen every time but often too many. I also have an issue where the transmission slips into 3rd and 6th gear. I think the stalling was just results of the known slipping issue or at least part of it since I had no issues prior. Therefore my question being would this fix the slippage or would that just need a solenoid pack replacement? If I floor which I shouldn’t be in the times I have, it drives fine. No slippage or anything until cruising speeds.
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On 6/7/2023 at 8:06 PM, leaning said:
2009 Dodge Journey. Driving down the road 30-60 MPH, RPMs at 1500-2000 or so, and then out of nowhere, the engine is screaming and the RPMs are 3000+ with the same MPH.
Come off the gas, the RPMs drop from 3000 to 1500. Barely touch the gas, and RPMs ramp quicky to 3000ish.
If I stop and turn the car off and restart it, I can drive normally, but then you never know and then you are back at 3000 with the RPMs dropping and raising with the tiniest pedal push.
Took to transmission company and they had it for two days and drove it and said they could not duplicate the problem. I picked the car up tonight, went a few miles, Check Engine Ligt came on, and RPMs started revving again.
Back to transmission shop. They want to check the code. Anybody seen this before?
Have you recently had a tune up? Could possibly be from old/faulty spark plugs causing engine misfire and rough idle. Probably also why they couldn’t find an issue with the trans.
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14 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:
With pans using RTV instead of leak prone gaskets, one needs to use a tool like a 2" wide paint scraper to work around between the trans case and pan. Quite common to see that.
Yes some codes point directly to a converter problem and other to deep internal trans troubles. Get it back to whom replaced the trans! Even if they offer a partial coverage, it would be well worth doing.
Okay, got ya. I most likely will take it back to them. I was just hesitant because I had financed the work they did originally from working on it and am still paying them. So to have to pour money back to them for an issue I’m already paying them for “fixing” isn’t the best.
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1 hour ago, 5rebel9 said:
With any auto trans, the first thing{and easiest} is drop the bottom trans pan and inspect for sludge/ debris laying in the bottom. Some amount of fiber is ok but not metal bits. We recently{2 weeks ago} had to have the trans pulled out on our '14 for a failing torque converter that threw code P0740. Not a fun job and it cost me $1k parts and labor.
1 year on a reman trans? take it back and see what they say or can do!
I tried taking the pan down but the rtv that was on it was to strong to actually take the pan off. I tried knocking it off and all yet it still didn’t budge so I siphoned the old atf through the inlet port. The old fluid was a bit burgundy compared to the clear clean (new) fluid. Also to ask, if there was an issue with the torque converter itself, it would actually throw a code?
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I made a post about two days ago in regards to my transmission slipping while trying to engage 6th gear. I’ve been experiencing this issue for a little over a week. I changed the transmission fluid, problem still consist. At first, I did have codes for P0729 (incorrect gear 6 ratio) and P0733 (incorrect gear 3 ratio). After the fluid change, I no longer see the code for P0733 but got another code for P083B (transmission fluid pressure sensor). Now… outside the slipping into 6th gear, the car recently (like a day or two ago) started to stall at idle, not always but the fact it happens is enough. It’ll start back up fine and will function properly (outside the slipping). Is this possibly a cause of a failing torque converter? Locked solenoids? I also had gotten my transmission replaced a year ago in August not sure if that’s good or bad details. Any suggestions and/or thoughts would highly be appreciated.
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6 minutes ago, 2late4u said:
easy way to remove fluid is thur the dipstick tube harbor freight has a cheap pump to remove oil and such, i used one on my daughter's mail vehicle i would remove the fluid into a plastic coke bottle that way i always knew how much i removed then to re add the new fluid
I actually bought a pump yesterday, like a siphon pump… didn’t work. I literally used a clear tubing and just sucked the oil out. I had a 7QT pan that’s literally almost full. The odd thing is I don’t even think I put more than a qt of atf in there. So I wonder if it was overfilled when I got my transmission replaced?
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30 minutes ago, 2late4u said:
.actually i just went out and checked mine second time since i had had my trans serviced at the dealership, once at 60 k and then again at 100k and the fluid was right in the middle after i took it for a drive to heat the trans up
Yeah I just used the engine oil dipstick to measure it at cold. It should level just barely below the curve on dipstick. My level was where it should be hot, at cold. So definitely too much. Hopefully after I drain it, it’s not slipping because I can’t get a new transmission right now
im also at 167k. Last year in august I just got transmission replaced. No issues prior until me “topping it off”. I had just watched multiple videos including this one. So that’s how I was at the conclusion of it being too much atf
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5 minutes ago, 2late4u said:
All my past experience with trans slippage means you will need a new trans in your future, no amount of fluid or magic trans fluids will help, but my 2001 dodge truck went a long time before i bothered to get it fixed ,of course i was going easy on it and not racing it... maybe someone else can pipe in with a better idea
I just got it replaced not even a year ago, it was under the warranty I got when I bought the car but I no longer have the warranty. My mind just went to it being more of a quick fix thing since is has only been happening after I added fluid.
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It’s me again… currently facing transmission slippage. Noticed this on the highway when around 75mph it’ll slip trying engaging into 6 gear then it’ll catch. Started about a week ago after I added transmission fluid. With that happening, I siphoned out some atf, still slipping. I got a code for p0729 (incorrect gear 6 ratio). I googled/YouTubed how to check the fluid, based off what I seen, it was low so thought maybe it actually needed more… dumb mistake. Now I’m experiencing slippage in 3rd (P0733). I drained all the fluid. I pulled about 3Qts out. No difference. Is it that I added too much or didn’t add enough?
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I’ve been having the issue for a minute and the mechanics I’ve been trying to get a hold of are on BS! The issue is coming from my Front Left tire and it’s knocking noise, as if the wheel is wobbling side to side/ back and forth. ↔️ It’s at the point my whole steering wheel and front end is shaking as if the wheels is preparing to fall off. This happens pretty much the whole time I’m driving over 5 mph. It’ll slow down to nothing when I decelerate to a stop. I’m pretty aware of having to take the tire off to inspect the components but what are some things in regards to the wheel that can cause this to happen that may need to be looked at specifically if anything? I have a video of it happening in real time linked below.
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On 3/15/2023 at 4:54 PM, JustDodge said:
Gonna pop back in, I actually pulled two codes. Following me being told there were none, one being C121C-00 and the second being U0401-00.
4 days later. I only went back over their work. Removing intake and putting it back together how I know it goes, it wasn’t anything out of place but I haven’t been having the issue since. May have been a loose wire. I still have those codes though.
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3 hours ago, John/Horace said:
TC light can come on from abs sensor issue. Code would show which wheel is an issue. If ETC light means the lightning bolt symbol , that points to electric stepper motor on the throttle assembly. Should be stored code as well. Try calibration procedure first. Super gasoline is for trouble shooting as well.
Gonna pop back in, I actually pulled two codes. Following me being told there were none, one being C121C-00 and the second being U0401-00.
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1 minute ago, John/Horace said:
It’s going into limp mode it seems. Could just be a coincidence it’s happening after car was worked on. It’s not easy to do something to a car to create intermittent failure days later…randomly. Not exactly a new car either.
Codes are usually stored when limp mode triggered. Sometimes multiple codes that make it hard to pinpoint the problem. Throwing parts gets expensive fast, honest mechanics don’t like to do that.
Could be anything from bad gas to a CPS, crank position sensor that is a fairly cheap wear item ($30 ish) or possible electronic throttle body starting to act up. Plastic gears on stepper motor can start to bind up.There is a recalibrate sequence for throttle assembly. Search the site for it, diy procedure.
Being in the North, adding some gas line antifreeze to your fuel is also worth trying. Cheap to do, older stations can sometimes have an issue. Or just run a tank of high test through the car, lots of addditives in expensive high test fuel.
Will do, it was a coincidence for sure. I did check the camshaft position sensors those seemed fine. Pushed all the harnesses and everything I thought of in just to make sure.
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2 minutes ago, 2late4u said:
so much info and nothing on why you took it to the garage for the work, and then had problems after the work was done....... also mileage would be helpful.....i assume the garage is not a dodge dealership as well.wouldn't be the battery if it has enough juice to start it and what about the alt. has it been checked to see if it is putting out enough juice to keep the battery charged? and as far as the throttle body how did they check it? good luck but i would take it to the dealership yes more expensive but more experienced mechanics there...good luck and let us know what the cause is
The work they did was suspension work. It’s at 102k miles. I knew the battery wasn’t an issue because you’d notice signs of that immediately with the typical ticking from a no start or certain accessory not working properly. The voltage on it is also 14.3 alt is good to, so it’s no bad. How the battery was a possible problem?? I’m not sure. A dodge dealership was on my list but I wanted the people who worked on it to actually look and fix whatever the my possibly could’ve done, also due to warranty would’ve covered it. Then I came here to see if anyone else had this issue specifically. Haven’t seen that so far. Jut will update.
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IMG_4225.MOVOkay, todays vehicle is not my own but my moms 2017 Journey 3.6. Recently took it to a shop Tuesday of last week. We got it back last Friday. Maybe a day or two after, we’ve experienced an issue at start where it’ll kinda ‘hum’ to life for about 5-7 seconds. Rough up/down idling. ETC flashing w TC and TC Off light constant. It’s like it’s fighting to stay on (audibly too). Not sure if it goes into limp mode or not but she was at work and describes she couldn’t even accelerate in a parking lot… I drove it well attempted to myself. It’s like in drive if I let my foot off the brake and not press gas it’s kinda torque-ey like I’m brake boosting it??? We do stay in Michigan but still haven’t had this issue on even colder days but it’s doesn’t just happen cold but after it sat a while. Not start back to back. We’ve experienced this twice in the past 4 days and we’ve always cut the car off and back on again and it’ll start like nothing just happened. I took it back to the shop that worked on it. Was told the Throttle body may need replacement but they inspected and couldn’t find any issues that could cause it. The engine light wasn’t on or throwing any codes. He did say the battery may be bad but outside this… never any issues or signs. Basically couldn’t work on it or tell insurance anything if it’s not a obvious issue. So I’m at a lost? I seen a few topics on this but never really had all these issues exactly. Any help would be nice! I leave a video to what happens on the dash.
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57 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:
ATC auto temp control has more parts involved than just actuators like normal manual controls. This is why I suggested in the past thread to have a complete scan done relating to the HVAC system. BUT YES I agree that the heater core is a prime suspect in lack of passenger side heat.
Both my current DJ's have manual dual front zone control, BUT soon I'll be getting another that does have the ATC system, I'll post here with what I find on "real world" operation, as being in the Buffalo/western NY area....we NEED to have GOOD HEAT!
Yeah I went back through the thread. Shortly after that thread was made, I did take it to the shop but was told it was looking to be an actuator and they was charging a $100 just to look at it. Knowing how much it cost to replace the actuator, it wasn’t worth the $100 especially if I could do it myself. But come to find out, the actuator wasn’t the whole issue. I did think of a coolant flush as well since my driver heat yet is hot, just not the hottest. Looks like that’s next! I’ll go YouTube how that’s done.
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I brought this issue up sometime ago, still the same issue where there’s no heat on the passenger side. I stay in Michigan where we’re dealing w snow. I checked the actuator again, it didn’t move when I changed the passenger temp which was a giveaway to what was happening. I bought another actuator, replaced the old one… still had the same issue. I checked the actuator again, to notice that it didn’t move in increments with the temp. If I put the temp at 72° or above it would completely open and anything below that it would just completely close. I have the actuator off now and move the actual flap with my hand to see if theres an issue outside the actuator and still no heat at all. The also has an effect on my underfloor heat vents, hot heat blows through those either. I make sure my coolant is topped. What could it possibly be?
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6 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:
Nope. ALWAYS the right front and quite a while since getting new tires. Sensor scanner for wheel sensors show all 4 working and reading well.
If you look up the codes, they are all system and front/rear/left and right position determining problems. ODD that the display still will accurately show correct tire pressures at each wheel position.
Looks like I’ll have to get a more intuitive reader. Mine is just a basic engine code scanner. My blank read started at the RR wheel and that same blank reading has rotated to my FL wheel. About 3 months ago, surprisingly all the reading actually showed for the first time owning it. But it was a shortly lived moment. That kinda would go to say it’s either antennas or the module, huh? Also looking at a different post I seen about the issue I seen you replied on.
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On 2/15/2023 at 6:28 AM, 5rebel9 said:
Hwy! Our {the WIFES] Early '14 just started doing the same thing! Ran advanced codes and got these.....
C1501-96
C1510-09
C1581-00
C1580-00
C1502-96
Have not rotated tires and always the R.Front dropping out and coming back on, with EVIC message to service TPMS system and tire warning light.
My thought is the module, or wiring, waiting for decent weather to tug on the plastic fender liner.
Has it ever dropped out and came back to show another tire with a missing reading or is it the same tire going in and out?
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29 minutes ago, larryl said:
Let me know what you find out I have changed the TP Module above the left rear wheel it worked for a bit but has quit again.
I always get the same -- at the left rear wheel even if I move the wheels
My mechanic friend said it could be the TIPM
The best I can say is try to manually relearn yours. If not, maybe the replace your tpms module itself because if it’s the same wheel after being replaced. The module may have some type of fault for it to not constantly and accurately read.
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19 minutes ago, larryl said:
Let me know what you find out I have changed the TP Module above the left rear wheel it worked for a bit but has quit again.
I always get the same -- at the left rear wheel even if I move the wheels
My mechanic friend said it could be the TIPM
I’ve been googling and searching. In my case, I’ve have the “ ——“ rotate to different tires. I guess is called “floating” from what I’ve seen one person say. I think I’m gonna have to manually relearn the system to reset/calibrate it. Because after seeing it “float” to different wheels, I think the sensors work but the computer itself isn’t registering all 4. Only 3 and those 3 readings will swap through tires occasionally. It was my front right wheel originally w no reading. Now it has a reading and switched to not showing my front driver wheel. I’ll still do further inspection to get as close of a solution possible
TPMS FAILURE
in Wheels & Tires
Posted
i have the same issue for the exact wheel placement. I do know at least 2 of my wheels are not in the correct spot but there was like 2 times where the tpms light actually went off and showed a reading for all 4 tires. but after a day or so it went back to no reading. i did see a lack of sensors for like 15 but not sure since they seem cheap