JustDodge

On my 12 Journey Crew my “Service Tire System” has been on for quite a while. When I see my tire pressures, it shows blank for one of the wheels. Over the last year it has changed position to another tire reading as blank or “——“ still only one wheel not showing a reading but it’s no longer the same wheel, as I have filled my tires before after seeing the position switch. I realized it’s not just the sensor failing but one of the tires not having a reading and the car switching the no reading to different tires as putting air in my tires, the increase in pressure didn’t correspond to the tire I actually inflated.
 

What could possibly be the issue? I thought of replacing the sensor but if it’s constantly switching between tires that eliminates knowledge of what tire is faulty. Not a big issue but it is something I get tired of seeing. 

On 12/31/2022 at 2:31 PM, John/Horace said:

Thermostat constantly opens and closes to regulate engine temp.  Worn out or cheap stat could stick, but yeah cause high temp swings, but not add extra air to system. A  sealed  system usually bleeds out pretty quickly, heat needs to be run to bleed trapped air in heater core.  Some cars can be finicky to bleed, take a few tries like Journey often does.

Pressure test of system might show where air is getting in. Confirm it’s not holding pressure. Combustion gas analysis of glycol will show if it’s possibly cracked head (test kit is sold,by parts stores).  Although fresh glycol could interfere with test. Water pump seal, pinched thermostat housing seal,  cracked plastic part, bad rad seal, etc can also allow air in system.

Yeah, just asking. But it must be something outside the thermostat because even before replacing it, I still had the same issue. That’s what made me replace it because I have two journeys with the other actually needing it due to over cooling the engine. So it was two in one thing but that obviously didn’t solve the issues I had with the other. I haven’t really drove it much since I last bled the system, so can’t give much of an update but I go back to regular commute tomorrow. I’ll update then

On 12/31/2022 at 6:42 PM, 2late4u said:

did you have your heater turned on hot and high fan as well both systems if you have rear heat

Yep, everything on hi and full blast

21 hours ago, 2late4u said:

well replacing parts without knowing what's wrong can get expensive but i would replace the thermostat again and possible the temp sensors for the fan, or take it into a shop where they can check it out, yes it will cost you some money but will be a LOT cheaper than replacing your engine from overheating it

But if it’s is a thermostat issue wouldn’t the car show a code for the car over heating? Not saying it isn’t but I’ve seems journeys show code for similar issues. I also did bleed the system again hot this time. Lots of air did leave, like I felt the eng. output hose literally bubbling from air in it. 

17 hours ago, 2late4u said:

which eng do you have i am assuming the 3.6.   also how many miles?..after  you changed out the thermostat did you bleed the air out of the system?

I have the 3.6 at around 157k miles. I bled the system while running through the bleeder valve until bubbles were no longer visible. 

There’s a few issues going on with my 11 Journey Crew currently. 
 

1. The car has an overheating issue, the engine temperature gauge likes to go from 1/2 to the line below 3/4 very often within 5 seconds. The fan will cut on (obviously because it’s past operating temps) but it constantly does this every 10-15 minutes of driving. The fan will stay on for a few seconds then will shut off because the car went back to normal. I replaced the thermostat, still occurs. 
 

2. I have a cabin heating issue, there’s no heat on passenger side or under the rear floor. Heat only comes through the two drivers vents and drivers defrost. The coolant isn’t low and the actuator seems to work fine when I change passenger temp. To also add, when I start the car you can noticeably hear fluid going through the system, you hear it move faster as gas is pressed if that has anything to do w anything. I have two Journeys and I’ve never experienced that so I’m curious. 

Any knowledge or help is taken. 

35 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

plenty of videos on it on youtube for journeys .mostly radiator replacement but you would have to do that before anyway and from there should be easy to figure out///////////2012 dodge journey radiator support frame replacement is what i typed into youtube......

Yeah, I have that off. It’s just the possibility of me of not knowing what comes off and in what order. 

Does anyone know how to remove the radiator support frame from 12 Journey? I can’t find any videos or information at all as to how.

1 minute ago, 2late4u said:

then your leak is at the connection on the res tank or the tank itself, also probally could be confirmed using a pressure check pump on the cooling system

Would a autozone or something if the sort have one? 

On 11/20/2022 at 6:09 PM, 5rebel9 said:

Low coolant levels will mean AIR is in the cooling system AND AIR around the sensor for temp will make sensor misread for accuracy. But it sounds as if you have your own conclusions , so let us know what you do to remedy your problem.

Good Luck to you 

Update to this thread… the actuator does ‘work’ as to move when the passenger temp is changed but still no heat to passenger side. Today, I drove the car and for the first time since this issue started, there is a leak. I followed the leak from the ground up to the car and literally above was the coolant reservoir. Still can’t figure out where the leak is at specifically. But levels still aren’t low to where air is getting in… at least not from the reservoir itself. 

On 11/20/2022 at 6:30 PM, 2late4u said:

, I only hear a clicking noise when I turn on my driver heated seat. 

Bad¿

7 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

WHY do you now post of constantly having to fill the coolant? These motors are known for air entrapment in the cooling system and an air pocket getting trapped in the heater core will cause loss of heat. Maybe you could give a bit more info as to just what has been going on before you noticed the heat loss.

It’s been heaving loosing coolant due to needing a sensor replaced in regards to the car accurately reading the engine temp, so the car constantly signals the fan on and uses coolant. Therefore, I didn’t think the loss of coolant would’ve played a major role in the cabin heating since it’s been an ongoing issue. Outside of that, I only hear a clicking noise when I turn on my driver heated seat. 

21 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Is it the orange coolant or has it been switched to green.  The two are not compatible, mixing can form gel in the system if proper flushes not done before switching. Google it. Some core failures may be related to that. 

I have changed the coolant but I’ve been using the same coolant for months now. How would the coolant just now affect the heat, specifically on one side of the vehicle? There hasn’t been no signs of anything being clogged. The way i constantly have to fill the coolant I now it’s not a backup. 

On 11/19/2022 at 7:18 AM, 5rebel9 said:

I don't mean to sound "crass" or insincere, but with the temp problem and being auto temp you really need to spend the money for a complete scan of all computer systems. could be any number of electrical issues from cabin temp sensor to actuators to control modules. Then there is the possibility of a front heater core plugging up as our '11 standard left/right/ rear did with needing a new heater core for the front. 

I have a scanner myself. 0 codes or anything. I YouTube on how to get to the actuators and cores to see if anything regards to those are wrong. 

9 hours ago, SRfR said:

I'm not looking to try and race chargers or be like a hellcat or try and race my journey at all. Just noticed wranglers have the same 3.6 engine and they even have those turned to at least 300 to compare to Ford explorer ( not the st or pursuit) models. 

I don’t try to race cars I know will outperform. But when I see a cocky Malibu or equinox or something, I won’t hesitate to floor my pedal and leave a mark. 

12 Journey Crew here. Within the last week, randomly. The heat on the passenger side has ‘stopped’. I’ve been on top of keeping coolant and everything in here. I can have the heat on hi and would only get heat from my two front driver vents. Not even the rear under floor vents or front defrost vents blow heat. I think the most they’ve gotten was warm. I stay In Michigan and… well the weather is shit. I did take it to a shop because I’m not familiar with the whole inner workings of the heat but of course they want $100 just to look at the car. Not fix the issue. So if anyone has any suggestions or what I should inspect, maybe how lol. Please do. Begging 

On 7/31/2014 at 2:01 PM, B4ZINGA said:

Exactly. Every other car I see around the Detroit area is a Journey. It's a very popular vehicle, enough that it was a major point for Fiat in its acquisition of Chrysler since it wanted to sell the Journey badged as a Fiat in Europe. Trouble is, buyers want it for its versatility and family-friendliness (I wanted mine for toting the dog around and having a lot more cargo capacity than my Charger offered). They don't buy it to see if they can turn a 10-second quarter mile or lap M3s on the road course. Next year I'll be looking into wider wheels and tires and more low-end torque to satisfy my cravings... but that's it. Diablo is successful with the LX cars because there is a large following that wants to blow the doors off of Mustangs. If I want to do that, I'll buy a sports car as a toy, not a crossover.

It is a lot of journeys here in Detroit. Literally 5 on my one block. Lol

On 10/19/2022 at 4:38 PM, tvactorninjaho said:

Honestly, a new BT module seems like a waste of money if the main stereo can be replaced with a new, better, larger aftermarket touchscreen with built in bluetooth - that is, as long as the new unit still controls climate/seat heaters, etc...

I did see like an upgrade radio w apple car play. But you need the 8.4 uconnect for it and the button is the back button for the evic. So idk how to feel abt it since the audio buttons on the wheel wouldn’t be of function anymore 

On 10/13/2022 at 4:58 PM, tvactorninjaho said:

Same. My bluetooth is non-functional since I owned the car. I was told the module was damaged (it was a salvage title - whole top/roof was crushed and rebuilt). I've been really wanting some bluetooth use so I can listen to something other than crappy radio stations. Haven't tried going to Car audio places yet but might soon... Just worried about losing all the touchscreen functionality (climate controls & heated seats, etc). 

The best alternative I can say is get a Bluetooth aux on Amazon or something. Cheaper than buying a new radio or something. You just plug it up to the auxiliary port and put the radio on aux. 

17 hours ago, jkeaton said:

Might try updating. 

 

https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

I just went on there and it says no update

9 minutes ago, jkeaton said:

Did it ever do anything or did this just start happening?

It’s been happening since I got it, I’ve had it for a little over a month. It works fine if I unplug and replug the fuse but it it’ll go back to the way jt was after I start the car again 

Has anyone found out how to “fix” the Bluetooth issue where it doesn’t connect or pair. The whole Bluetooth function it basically unusable. If I press Bluetooth as the audio it won’t do anything, it won’t let me pair, NOTHING. I did see a post about the unplugging the fuse but that’ll only last until I cut the car off. I’ve even bought a new fuse for it. 

21 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

So you actually RESCANNED for codes since this trans problem ocurred and no other codes than for your fan issue? IF NOT, I suggest you have it scanned again and post any and all codes by their format number and NOT by descrpyion. My wild guess is a stuck/malfunctioning TCC SOLENOID (torque converter clutch). Not a large job, but one needs a little experience wporking inside the trannie ( does not need trans removal to do). BUT I also suggest filter and oil change for the transmission.

Okay after form passed I rescanned and it did pop up code p06de pcm… so that probably can explain why it was stuck between in gear between 1k-3k rpm

5 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

So you actually RESCANNED for codes since this trans problem ocurred and no other codes than for your fan issue? IF NOT, I suggest you have it scanned again and post any and all codes by their format number and NOT by descrpyion. My wild guess is a stuck/malfunctioning TCC SOLENOID (torque converter clutch). Not a large job, but one needs a little experience wporking inside the trannie ( does not need trans removal to do). BUT I also suggest filter and oil change for the transmission.

Yeah, only code that shows it p0480 which was control circuit malfunction . I just checked the fluid and filter not even 3 days ago and everything was good and I’ve  drove it once(seen in video) since then. At first it was an issue with it slipping as I’ve made a post on previously, but it’s like now you don’t even tell it’s slipping you feel it shift hesitantly or not shift at all. But I just decided to leave it alone and wait until I can take it to a shop to further look at it. Looks like its not a issue I can fix myself 

3 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

so what are your codes showing since you have the check engine light on? also have you done the 100k transmission service?looks like you have around 140 k as of now, sounds like a trip to the transmission shop might be in order,good luck and report back on what you find out to be your problem

The engine light from a issue with the fan. It doesn’t show a code about a issue with the transmission. I went to my preferred auto shop but they’re not able to look at until Wednesday