Mrgixxer6

I wonder if deleting the alpine premium sales code from the vin would make it function as yours does... Problem with the alpine system is the crossover points and a noise cancelling mic. I hate it. Parts are on the way and my buddy and I will be installing this stuff and praying for a better sound lol. I'm a former IASCA world finalist and installer/fabricator from old circuit city days. My buddy worked for me at circuit city and is a Bestbuy Master Tech... I'll keep everyone updated on the progress. I really want to try to delete the sales code and see if it enables the speaker level outs. Guess I need to pull the unit. Get a wire harness and head to the dealer. I also have a friend that owns my dodge dealer so we can edit sales codes anytime for free

OK.. so i finally bit the bullet and have a Kicker 800.5 5 Channel Amplifier... 100x4 plus 400x1 RMS. The trouble is that this leads me to more questions and more problems... So... as far as i can tell with this alpine system, there is simply a Left and Right channel leaving the head unit going to the amplifier.. Volume, Bass, Mid, Treble, Fade and Balance is then all controlled through the Can Bus... There is an adapter for Premium sound systems(assuming that includes the alpine system) that gives you line level outputs from the can bus... Trouble is you lose bass, mid and treble controls. http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1120&CategoryID=28 I'd like to assume that i won't need the adjustments after setting up the amp and whatnot.... plus i'll have a subwoofer gain control so i like to think this will work. Will also be upgrading the 8" to a dual 4ohm Coil Kicker CompR 600 Watt RMS sub...
What i'm curious of is this.... Take a look at this piece here... https://www.ebay.com/itm/282026505770 It says it is for NON AMPLIFIED systems... My question is can you delete the sales code for the "premium" sound system and enable this device to work and maintain your bass/mid/treble controls? Probably a long shot, but with how these cars work with can bus it wouldn't surprise me. as an example.. my old chrysler 200 did NOT have the ability from the manufacture to get a rear view camera... I purchased a third party rear view camera and harness, installed it and then added a sales code for Backup cam and presto! There it is in my stock RHR radio... Rear view camera...

Would love for some thoughts, insights.... Dhh3 do you have the 8.4 Connect?

Awesome man. I would love to hear your system lol. I think I may try an upgraded woofer in the factory enclosure with a kicker CX600.5. That will give the new kicker sub 300 watts RMS. If no good then sub under the seat. Lol
Kicker makes good stuf for sure. What speakers are you using in your doors?

The audio that comes from a sub is omnidirectional, in that you hear it but it does not come from any one location/source. So, the bass does not appear to come from under my seat. My underseat Kicker comes with a remote gain, so I can turn it up and vibrate the mirrors and my baggie jeans if I so desire! I keep it to a point where I hear/feel the punch, but I do not rattle the loose parts or vibrate the body panels of my car as some are prone to do; so everyone in the neighborhood can not hear me! This little box is amazing for what it puts out. Even the installer at Best Buy could not believe his ears; and I am sure that he has heard some way overpowered systems.
I, too, need my cargo space, and I do have the third row. I had the rear view camera installed as part of my "deal" when I purchased my car new not quite 2 years ago. The passenger side third row seat was out on the shop floor, the left rear interior panel was out, as well as both door sill panels, to run the cables for the camera. There did not appear to be enough room to mount a decent sized sub enclosure behind the panel, to be able to move enough air; to be able to "punch" out the low level sounds. I believe that the stock sub is 8" and do not believe that there would be room enough to modify the enclosure for a 10" sub. I could be wrong. The interior panels in my Nitro were a breeze to remove, but I have never made an attempt to remove the rear panels in my DJ. All I can suggest is to remove the panel (you may have to remove the seat first) and go from there. Even if you were able to install a 10" sub, the crossovers in the factory Alpine amp may not give you the power to drive it properly.
To be clear, I do not have the factory Alpine system. I have read both pros and cons on the forum concerning the sound of this system. I have never heard it, so I can not, in all fairness, make a statement as to how it sounds. As I started changing my system, step by step, the sound got incredibly better, and I am thoroughly happy with the outcome.

The alpine sound system probably sounds amazing to someone that has never heard an amazing sound system haha! I mean no disrespect but this system is garbage compared to others. Is it better than non alpine system? Absolutely.

This is partially true. The objective of a good subwoofer is to just hear/feel it and you to not be able to locate were the sound is coming from.. It should leave the impression it's coming from in front of you. Not under your but. BUT AGAIN I've never tried a sub upset the seat and would LOVE to hear dhh3 system. Would feel way better about making the changes haha. The kicker "upgrade" is rough in my honest opinion.

I've read your threads and am not talking about your posts. I'm sure it does sound tons better especially since you have an aftermarket amp bypassing the crappy alpine amps cross over points LOL.
I'm talking about the 3 or 4 people that have said they modified the oem sub enclosure for 10" subs. I've read posts that they did it with success but once asked for pics they become ghosts. That's all. If you want to read that I have a "low opinion of forum members". That's fine too. But I was pretty clear what my question was. I use my journey for business and am unable to sacrifice any cargo area or 3rd row. I'd prefer the sub be in the oem location, but underwear is certainly on my list of possibilities. I'm not looking for rattle the crap off the wall loud. I'm looking for more of an audiophile sound. Which is one reason the seat under the sub is on the back burner. Without ever hearing a sub under my butt. Just not sure how it would present itself in the sound stage.

I've read your threads and am not talking about your posts. I'm sure it does sound tons better especially since you have an aftermarket amp bypassing the crappy alpine amps cross over points LOL.
I'm talking about the 3 or 4 people that have said they modified the oem sub enclosure for 10" subs. I've read posts that they did it with success but once asked for pics they become ghosts. That's all. If you want to read that I have a "low opinion of forum members". That's fine too. But I was pretty clear what my question was. I use my journey for business and am unable to sacrifice any cargo area or 3rd row. I'd prefer the sub be in the oem location, but underwear is certainly on my list of possibilities. I'm not looking for rattle the crap off the wall loud. I'm looking for more of an audiophile sound. Which is one reason the seat under the sub is on the back burner. Without ever hearing a sub under my butt. Just not sure how it would present itself in the sound stage.

Well just completed this upgrade. I can tell you the components are certainly brighter than the stock alpine dash speakers. Wow. Didn't get to listen to it to much, but will get to tomorrow. Changing them was a piece of cake for anyone wondering.

Hi guys, I just finished installing my new speakers today! I installed the Mopar/Kicker 77KICK28ab (component) in the front doors and dash and the 77KICK41 (coaxial) in the rear doors without any mods at all. The depth of the speakers weren't as deep as the info in all my research and they all fit like they were made for my car and they have the same OEM connector as the original featherweight speakers. The sound difference is definitely huge and I'm hearing more details in my music again. I haven't cranked the volume yet since I heard new speakers should be given a couple days of lower volume for breaking them in. I don't know if that's true or not but I figured it couldn't hurt to go easy on them in the beginning anyway and I don't want to chance damaging them.

Just add Apple car play and we will be happy...

Would love to know the difference in sound with this upgrade. Seriously considering it for myself. Did you get better low frequency response? More bass? Is there an upgrade for the subwoofer available as well? I can't seem to find too much information.

finally got to get UNDER the dash.. (why the hell do they put these things so far down there?!?!?) SURE ENOUGH you can put the fuse in 2 different ways!!! you guys are awesome.. Would be great if that was in the effing owners manual...

finally got to get UNDER the dash.. (why the hell do they put these things so far down there?!?!?) SURE ENOUGH you can put the fuse in 2 different ways!!! you guys are awesome.. Would be great if that was in the effing owners manual...

finally got to get UNDER the dash.. (why the hell do they put these things so far down there?!?!?) SURE ENOUGH you can put the fuse in 2 different ways!!! you guys are awesome.. Would be great if that was in the effing owners manual...

finally got to get UNDER the dash.. (why the hell do they put these things so far down there?!?!?) SURE ENOUGH you can put the fuse in 2 different ways!!! you guys are awesome.. Would be great if that was in the effing owners manual...

Yeah owners manual is useless. Gonna just climb under the dash and look again. I just put it back where I thought I pulled it from. But who knows it was dark and I was iritated. Have t gotten to check it out for days as my wife has had he car. Hope to check tonight

Is this the case?!? I can barely get to the fuse box(just had vasectomy so my flexibility is limited LOL)

I know what the symbols mean. I apparently had a bad charger that blew the fuses and when I replaced them I noticed none of the outlets work when in the Lock position. Did I miss a fuse somewhere that could have gotten fried? thanks. I replaced 2 20 amp fuses

Is there something I'm missing? The two outlets in center console(with the battery on the cover) only work with acc or run. Not when locked as they are supposed to. Any ideas? Yeah I'm a 1 post wonder because I just bought the car. Thanks for your help!

Is there something I'm missing? The two outlets in center console(with the battery on the cover) only work with acc or run. Not when locked as they are supposed to. Any ideas? Yeah I'm a 1 post wonder because I just bought the car. Thanks for your help!