leaning

Well, I used multimeter on diode scale. Black lead to positive battery terminal, red lead to case of alternator. 430mv, which looked OK. Removed the small and big wires from the alternator. So, fuse box empty and alternator disconnected. Put the black cable on at the bulkhead. Smaller sparks, but still sparking. I had it attached but not bolted and heard a fan running. Went inside the car to see if anything was on that needed turned off (no key in the ignition), but a fan was running. Then brown smoke started coming out from the engine compartment. I got out of the car and saw the smoke was coming from below the fuse box. I pulled off the black cable, the smoke stopped, the fan stopped, but a lot of burnt electrical smell. So, I removed the spare and the jack, cleaned out my stuff from the inside of the car, removed the battery, am draining and removing the radiator, and am scrapping this thing. it worked well when it worked, but between this and all the other issues, time to call a spade a spade. Thanks everyone for your troubleshooting help!

2009 Dodge Journey. Something keeps draining my battery. So, I have to jack the car up, remove the battery, take it to Advance, they charge it, back in the car, and repeat. I had some time this weekend, so I tried to do a current test. Battery is connected down below, but the negative is disconnected at the bulkhead and I was doing amps there. So with ALL of the fuses, relays, and the CB removed from the fuse box (it's empty now), there is a huge spark whenever I try to put that cable back on the bulkhead. What else can I check? What draws power with the fuse box empty??

Take a look at the picture I posted. I pulled the fuses, disconnected the glove box light, and removed the bulbs from the hatchback light, and as of now, the car is just fine, no battery draining, and it has stopped starting and stopping on its own. So, give those a try, especially removing fuse M10. Good luck!

I use this Journey just as a work car, so the less tech and gadgets, the better. So, while I was under the hood pulling the M10 fuse for the HFM, I went ahead and pulled a bunch more of stuff I never use. Less stuff I have to worry about weighing on the electric system. (I did this before bare-bonesing Windows computers that have a bloat of added "helpful" features.) I can always put the fuse back in if I find I need a feature. Anyway, here is what is gone so far. Time to take the car for a drive to see if any of this helped with the original door-locking-itself issue.

Dean H, The battery was dead, but I was able to not remove it, but just use jumper cables and charge it from another vehicle until I could get it to start. I had already pulled TPIM fuse M10 which says it's for the HFM. I did as you said and disconnected the harness for the glove compartment light (which is part of that compartment door closed plunger). I'm looking to see how to do a current draw test so I hopefully can leave it overnight without it sucking the battery down to nothing again. Thanks for your ideas!

All, This is happening with both keys. So the last few nights I have been keeping the keys away from the car, but overnight, something is draining the battery all the way to nothing. So, I have to jack the front tire up and remove it, remove the panel, remove the battery, take it to Advance to charge it, bring it back, put it back together, put the tire on, and then the chirp'door locking thing starts as soon as the battery is connected. Something is draining the battery overnight, so that's what I have to a drain check to find. Cars...

Well, new battery in the fob was something, but the problem continues. Car locks itself when the key gets close, then keeps trying to lock itself even though it is already locked. And the horn chirps every time. if anybody has an idea about this, thank you!

Update: I tried the spare fob and using it to unlock and lock, the lock rods on the car moved and down. My fob battery was 2.87 volts, the spare was 3.2. So, the stuff I was seeing was just the car doing a "Fob Battery Low" alert. Still curious if there is a fuse that removed the fob/door interaction so I can just unlock and lock the driver's door with the key, but still use the fob for ignition. Cars...

Door switch locks and unlocks and the door lock rods go up and down as it should Use the fob, the unlock makes the door lock rods twitch but not go up. You have to use the key from the fob, unlock the door manually, the alarm goes off, and then you put the fob in the ignition to silence the alarm. When unlocked, if I move away from the car or breathe wrong, the car locks itself. I would just be happy with a motor on a chassis with a seat and wheels and a steering wheel. I pulled most of the fuses of stuff I don't need, and want to just bare bones this. Is there a fuse which controls the relationship between the fob and the door locks? I apreciate your help and info!

2009 Dodge Journey. Driving down the road 30-60 MPH, RPMs at 1500-2000 or so, and then out of nowhere, the engine is screaming and the RPMs are 3000+ with the same MPH. Come off the gas, the RPMs drop from 3000 to 1500. Barely touch the gas, and RPMs ramp quicky to 3000ish. If I stop and turn the car off and restart it, I can drive normally, but then you never know and then you are back at 3000 with the RPMs dropping and raising with the tiniest pedal push. Took to transmission company and they had it for two days and drove it and said they could not duplicate the problem. I picked the car up tonight, went a few miles, Check Engine Ligt came on, and RPMs started revving again. Back to transmission shop. They want to check the code. Anybody seen this before?

Hello! I noticed a leak in the sunroof, and then saw the gasket was a little warped. So, I purchased a 5173172AC seal, but can't find instructions on how to replace it (it's two pieces). I was going to shotgun it, but if someone has any words, I'd appreciate it. Thanks! Regards, leaning

Two quick things for a 2009 Dodge Journey: 1) I took the bottom glove box off and took two gray bolts at the bottom that were attached to the dash trim. I replaced the blend door actuator, went to put the bolts back and can only find one. Anybody know of a good exploded part diagram that would show those two bolts so I can get the part numbers? 2) There is a little square panel in the middle top of the dash that I guess is used to hold knickknacks. It was broken (hinges snapped) when I bought the car, but I'd like to get it back to working. it has this info on the back but I can't find this part either anywhere: DCX JC49 Door Inner 100015630 Rev Level B CAV 1. Anyone know a good source for one of these? Any help appreciated! Thanks! Leaning

Hello! I know this is an old thread, but for those drivers who have a 2009-2011 Dodge Journey with the interior sun visor mirror cover broken, you have options. The discussion is that you have to buy the whole visor, but they actually make a kit for just the covers. You get two covers (mine were grey) for $3. If you Google "RRT_09060", it has the Rapid Response Transmittal 09-060 which tells the part number for the covers (68068736AA) and how to install them. So, if you want the whole visor, you can find them for $40-60 each, or if you just want to fix the cover itself, it's only $1.50 each. So, call your local Dodge/ Chrysler dealer and if they don't have them, they can get them. And BTW, the pins on the new covers are metal, not plastic. HTH! Regards, Leaning