V-Leds V3 Triton Leds

[burgandy25]

Hello everyone its been a while since I've been on here, I got a 2009 Triumph Thruxton and have been playing with that. I ordered 3 sets of V-leds V3 Triton Led lights for my '10 Journey... They are quite the investment. I still have yet for them to get here because I pre-ordered them and I also will not be able to install them until January :waiting: So until then I will keep posting in this thread about what they look like when they arrive and how I am installing them and so on. But first off about these LEDs. The V3s are the brightest the V-leds has come out with to date, they use I believe 6 philips rebel high powered LEDs I talked to a guy at V-leds and he said they got better output with these opposed to CREE leds; which was a shock to me. They are adjustable which is nice, so you can adjust the depth and everything for then to get the perfect reflection in the housings of the bulbs.

For the front I got a pair of the V3 "5K Switchback" Leds, This is currently their 3rd version of switchbacks in my '97 Stratus I have their first gen 92 led switchback and they work fine and are bright so if these are brighter...Sweet!!! They are also simultaneously releasing their version 2 of their Platinum LEDs. I also have a pair of their first gen platinum leds for my rear turn signals in the Stratus, and wow the amber of those are way brighter than the switchback led up front, but that switchback technology is their oldest less pretty much so I imagine the gen 2 switchback platinum will be brighter but not as bright as the V3 Triton switchback. so brightness order from brightest to not brightest V3-Platinum (gen 2)-Platinum (gen 1)- and old technology (no specific name. look like tower LEDs)

The v3 Tritons switchback that I ordered boast 600 Lumens (LM) in the 5K white running light, and 430LM for Amber turn signals.

I also ordered 2 pairs of the Red V3 tritons, the same concept but with 3 Philips Rebel Leds incorporated, with a 6:1 High/low ratio for the running/brake. which should make a big difference when brakes are on and off because some are hard to tell the difference and those are generally bad eBay leds. The red V3's have only 210LM of output and they told me that they are plenty bright.

I know that you have to add resistors to our cars because we do not have a relay like older cars do; but what makes V-leds different and unique for the V3s is their incorporated in-line resistors you can buy that are completely plug and play, so you connect your factory plug into the resistors and then the V3 bulb connectors into the resistors also so there is no need to slice and cut .

We have the 2010 Journey which do not have the amber turn signals and use the brake light as a turn signal also, my summer project is the but a white V3 triton and cut out the hole where the amber would sit in the taillight and make that clear housing into another reverse light. Along with that I plan on making the hatch running lights also a running/brake light combo like the outer bulbs. There is a thread around here asking if anyone has done it and I was thinking about running a 10 gauge wire for the brake (because there is already a running) over to the brake on the other side (for both sides) and maybe at the same tie try and do the reverse lights as well.

I will post picture of the V3s as they arrive I know the reds shipped this week but the switchbacks won't ship till maybe January.

I'll keep everyone posted!

also check out my Advanced Automotive Concepts (ACC) thread and help us get a Dodge Journey specific Halo kit!

[burgandy25]

Quick update, I did receive one pair of the V3's (Red) and installed them without the flasher relay to see how they are, and wow! They are something else! They are brighter than what I was anticipating them to be. I still have not received the Switchbacks, because their ETA is tomorrow so I except them next week sometime. I can't wait for them to come in so I can post some pics and videos of them!

[Rubberdude88]

I read your entire post twiice but still can't grasp which bulbs are for which area of the DJ. I would love to add LED's to the front fogs but my understanding is that they are an "odd" bulb. I have been to the website above and can't find LED's for the DJ fogs.

Can you offer any help as in which bulb will fit the fog housing???

Thanks

Sorry, ours is a 2012.

Edited December 20, 2012 by Rubberdude88

[Rubberdude88]

I read your entire post twiice but still can't grasp which bulbs are for which area of the DJ. I would love to add LED's to the front fogs but my understanding is that they are an "odd" bulb. I have been to the website above and can't find LED's for the DJ fogs.

Can you offer any help as in which bulb will fit the fog housing???

Thanks

Sorry, ours is a 2012.

The bulb is a 2504 which V-LED's doesn't even have a cross reference for.

[burgandy25]

Hey thanks! Yeah dodge has a very "weird" bulb for fog lights in most of their cars, they are mainly a european bulb that is eco friendly and long lasting, it puts out about 900LM. The bulb that is the equivalent of the 2504 is a 9009/5202/ or commonly known as H16. V-Leds does have those, they have their old tower Led light and they have a pre-order of the new H16 bulb, but be aware the H16 they are about to sell is bright nonetheless but it puts out only 727LM which is LESS than the stock bulb, so in a forward visibility and safety aspect the stock bulb is better, but if your going for looks the H16 they have for pre-order will be fine.

2009+ Journeys all have the same fog light bulb as well.

sorry if I was not clear I am changing all the turn signals in my '09 Journey to the V3 Tritons A pair of red leds in back and switchbacks (white running light/ amber turn signal) up front, the 2010's have a dual functioning brake light and turn signal so it uses the red brake light bulb as a turn signal also, no amber turn signals on the 2010s there is a cap over the hole.

I will be making a video tomorrow and posting it on youtube and I will put a link in here for everyone to see what I am doing with these bulbs.

[burgandy25]

Here is a video of the switchbacks and red V3's. First youtube video and its pretty bad, I was talking way to fast and sound drunk at points my next video will be a lot less talking I guess haha.

[burgandy25]

Like I said later today I will put all four in with the 2 resistors that is apparently only needed instead of 4, and hopefully after some messing around I will find the magic recipe of how to install them correctly, make another video (less talking shorter time), and another video of where i will install the boxes and what the end bulb will look like with the collar and screws in place before going into the front and rear sockets. See you all tomorrow with a few new videos and pictures!

[burgandy25]

Great news, I got everything installed and everything works great! I had to put BOTH of the CLS's (Circuit Loading System) in with the rear turn signals/brakes; inside the cavity where the brake light housing sits in. Everything fits in there fine but there is no place to mount the CLS system so I had to just balance it in and then put the housing back in. In the spring I will find a better way to mount the CLS system than just letting it float around in there. Everything was straight forward to what I said in the video above with the exception of the CLS module being moved to the rear. And I only needed the two CLS modules to convert ALL 4 bulbs to leds. and let me tell you, they are awesomely bright. instant on/off is something I love about them. I will take a video tomorrow of them in the daylight and at night time. today i took a few videos but i need the day/night shots also. I will compare them to the 92 led tower bulb I have in my car which is also a switchback and also to my rear turn signals in my car which are the first gen platinum amber leds. I'll also show the complete interior LED retrofit of leds all from V-leds.

[burgandy25]

I am going to recant my last statement of the LEDs, as of right now,

DO NOT BUY THESE!

why? you may ask after my ranting and raving of these bulbs? They have bad quality components of the system. the wiring is really flimsy and of very low thickness on the inside meaning low gauge wires are used. how do i know this? because I read on another forum, here is the quote from a member of another forum.

"well my set of reds is destroyed. i tried to cut the connectors off because i didnt feel comfortable using them, and i ended up making a mess. if youre thinking about doing it, dont. first off there is not enough wiring, second, the wires are literally paper thin. when i was trying to strip one, the wire broke in my hand. i tried another one and the wire pulled out of the bulb! and fyi, each single black wire has two tiny + and - wires. so 4 wires total. and yes when i got pissed and threw them on the ground, i also gutted the insides and found a CC driver hidden in the hollow base. so moral of the story, if you plan to use these you are stuck with the crazy connections and bulb socket. be very careful not to bend the wires coming from the bulb too many times. they will break. handle the bulb gently and tie up the wiring so its not sagging from the base. i still have the ambers, so i may stick those in the fogs as drl one of these days. but overall i lost confidence in the build quality. they shouldve used beefy wiring like the elefs, basically the same thickness as the stock wires. and the screw on heatsink isnt the greatest idea either. idk, i guess use them as they come and hope they fit the socket. then take the stress off the wiring in the back"

So there you go, he took it upon himself to look into the internals of them. also I have had problems with the wiring myself. I have 3 pairs and all of them have the same problem, they will not light up unless you bend and manipulate the wires untill they do decide to light up, meaning there is a bad connection or contact inside the wires somewhere. all 3 pairs have this problem, quality control really needs to step their game up. and also the 4 bulb in-line resistors that are "supposed" to stop hyperflashing on all 4 bulbs does not work. they said only 2 in-line resistors are needed to stop all 4 bulbs from flashing, so far they don't I get hyperflashing no matter what. I am uploading a video right now i will post before midnight showing how i installed them and some of the hyperflashing and the brightness of the bulbs.

besides that they are brighter than stock bulbs and pretty good.

[burgandy25]

This is a night video of the V3's even with the in-line resistors that are not working as advertised, resulting in hyper-flashing, hope they can clear up how to use them properly if I am not using them properly.

[burgandy25]

I have talked to v-leds and they said that our car has 4 circuits to run 4 turn signals instead of 2 like most modern vehicles, so I will be getting 2 more and hopefully everything will be fixed.